waltmail
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Posts posted by waltmail
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14 hours ago, DAVES89 said:
Not any more as the following are already gone; hood, trunk lid, headlights, Teves master cylinder [all these parts not by me]. Steering column is out and laying in the car.
Parts I grabbed are cornering lights, fog lights, windshield, dash, front seats, IPC,headlight switch, inner door panels, floor mats, front lower spoiler, outside mirrors/triangle glass, and other misc. parts. I am going back for the outer door handles and try for the front ABS leads, maybe the grill and temperature control assembly [the one the vacuum hoses connect to].
No this car will never see the road again...
Just curious. What did this parts haul cost $$$$$$$$ ????????????
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I thought I had a relay problem for awhile. All I had to do to get the pump going was tap the relay. I replaced relay, since I had a box of spares. It would reoccur after awhile. So I would pop the relay. This would occur on infrequent s tart ups. I pulled the relay again and this time sprayed the socket with WD 40. Never hung up again. It wasn't the relay just a dirty socket.
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Whoops. Sorry. Thanks for the link.
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Found this very informative history and conversions write up on the Getrag.
http://www.rodneydickman.com/getraginfo.htm
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Hey Barney. Where did you get the brushes? After taking my unit apart to replace the rollers I purchased from you, I discovered they were in very good shape. I may have even replaced them awhile back. I need to log my repairs so I don't replicate repairs. My driver side works just fine. The passenger works intermittently. A little manual boost and then they work fine for awhile. Let them sit for a week and they become balky.
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Thank you for your patience and guidance. Stuck it in the vise as suggested and it is now free.
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Ok. I have been wiggling and wobbling on that piece till I am blue in the face. At this point I am wondering if I back the motor off the assembly am I opening up an unfixable can of worms?
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Thank you for the able assistance.
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I am trying to remember how to remove the plastic gear from the housing to replace the rollers. I have the gear exposed. Is there a step I am missing. I thought it would lift right out.
I also can't seem to find a "search for" feature on this forum. Am I missing something?
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14 hours ago, KDirk said:
Have you posted it for sale locally? If it is fully working and rust free I can't hardly believe no one at all is interested. Almost all I see for sale anymore on Craigslist are beaters and parts cars. eBay does have some nice ones but relatively few really primo cars most of the time. And those that are tend to be asking sky high prices to start, thereby limiting the interest. I looked in the for sale forum here and didn't find it listed, at least recently. What are the details (color, mileage, etc.)? Curious to know more about it, and will spread the word to guys I know if you post an ad here.
I will concur that interest in the Reatta seems to have declined noticeably in the past couple of years. Not sure what to make of that, and I find it disappointing as it is now at the age where it's status should start to improve, even if the valuations in dollar terms don't. Really, the fact they are inexpensive should aid in generating interest, with the cost of entry being relatively low. Suspect the age and concerns over parts and repair costs may be an impediment though. There is some legitimacy to those concerns, admittedly.
I know two of the parts cars I bought sat for a long time unsold. One for over a year, another for at least 5 months. But, parts cars are a different market than a good condition driver, and are usually harder to sell as you need a buyer willing to put in the work to tear one down and dispose of the remainder. Don't seem to be many of us around, especially with a Reatta fixation.
Problem with Craig's List in South Florida is the endless string of scammers. Whenever I post a sale on Craig's, I get the offers to hold onto the vehicle for a few days while they send me a "cashier's check" ( counterfeit ) for $300 more than my asking price, until they can send someone to pick the vehicle up. Right now there are 2 Reattas actively listed here and they are not moving. I would take $800 in a heartbeat.
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i have an '89 that may end up going to Cash for Cars. 100 % rust free Florida car its whole life. Everything works, including sun roof, headlight buckets, CRT, Teves system, A/C, new rack, etc. Good enough to be a daily driver, but I can't find any interest. I would rather have the space in my shop. I think an era is coming to an end.
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Good luck. Awhile ago I began removing the side trim moulding. I stopped after removing the driver side small rear piece. The inside surface sorta crumbled and the clips broke. It should just slide rearward and then be free.
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Uh oh. Hopefully that remanufacturer of the ECM is reliable. There is one major supplier in South Florida who is a huge internet presence and claims to sell reliable rebuilt ECMs for all vehicles. His products, generally are trash. Maybe Jim Finn has used reliable units. Best wishes to you.
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On 10/3/2016 at 4:42 PM, Budensor said:
I edit my post I hope you guys are happy? I'm old school ! ! ! I just needed help ? i was not trying to start a big issue.
Well, another attempt, by me, at humor failed. I even included smilies. I give.
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Much ballyhooed by the media. Nothing in South Florida to speak of. I am in Boca Raton. My calves are screaming at me today. Too many trips up and down the ladder to hang shutter panels on my 2 story house.
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BTW, please do not call them hub caps.
Center caps. -
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18 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:
If I owned a 88-90 it would already been done, but I thought someone might take the lead and run with it.......seems like everyone want everything handed to them wrapped and tied with a ribbon.
Was it my post and suggestion that ticked you off? That surely wasn't my intention. I will butt out of this conversation as I do not need an accumulator and only thought I came up with a workable suggestion.
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At $118.00, price is right. We need a guinea pig to buy one or start a GoFundMe account to share the costs of research. Would you do something like that Barney? I would kick in. Could use a PayPal account for this purpose.
BTW, found another source for this unit and it lists 8 different vendors with varying prices but none more than $150.00.
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Paint prep work on rear 1/4s and trunk lid. Would have painted today but for the rain.
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8 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:
i have considered building a tester for the Teves pump, pressure switch and accumulator. It is low on the priority list as I do not own a Reatta with the system.
My main computer is in the computer hospital or I would make a sketch........ imagine this
Take a pump assembly and mount it on some sort of base.
Supply 12 v to it via a used harness.....have an on/off switch to stop the 12V supply
It would need a graduated fluid container that would feed brake fluid to the pump input
The line coming out of the pump to the booster would need......(1) a "T" fitting for a 3000 psi pressure gage (2) a on/off (open/close) valve and the output would
empty into the fluid container.
This would allow you to.......
(1) test the pressure switch for the pressure when they would turn on and off the pump.
(2) the graduated fluid container would tell you how much fluid was being stored in the accumulator, which would allow them to be graded from bad to good
(3) with a timer you could also grade the condition of the pump
All of this would fit on a 12 in square base and would be self contained
Would this be for testing junkyard units?
Center caps. 
What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>
in Buick Reatta
Posted
How did you pull the windshield? For those $$$$ that seems to be a total score. Good for you..