studerex
-
Posts
862 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by studerex
-
-
The 1941 radio tag number starts with 18 and 1942 starts with 19. That code works going backwards. 1940 being 17. But not after the war.
-
On 1/5/2023 at 11:15 PM, John DePrey said:
one caveat, the flipped bracket changes the shock length, so the one I use might bottom out on a correct one...
somewhere I have a kit supplied by studebaker for 1941 champion to convert from lever to tube rear shocks.
-
1
-
-
When looking at the 2 photos you posted of the front side of differential, the seal looks flush on the early photo and recessed or reversed in later photo.
-
Curious about the seal number you're using. A seal lip is usually toward the oil. It looks to be pointing out.
-
https://www.studebaker-intl.com/index.html I got them there before
-
13 minutes ago, Buffalowed Bill said:
Congratulations it seems to be the same car. I'm certainly glad that it has recently run. I was worried about the car when it first showed up on line. It seemed that the owner didn't know much about it and needed some guidance. He seemed to be having a hard time deciding what to do with it. That's when I told him that if he decided to sell to get in touch with me. I'm honestly glad that someone knowledgeable got the car so I didn't have to move it across country, and then make room in the shop building. It's funny no matter hatter how many cars that I have, when something this special shows up, I can always find room for just one more. I'm really surprised that Rex let this one get away.
This was too much for me in 2004.
-
3 hours ago, Axial_Flow said:
@studerex Yes! That is the same car. Unbelievable how good 'she' looked back in 2004. From a little testing, I think the paint will come back. Do you know how much of the car is original? I sorta made the assumption the paint was, but not sure about the rest of the car.
Please feel free to PM me any details you wish to share about the car. I would like to learn anything I can about it.
I believe the car is all original. Motor should be fine, just clean it up before starting. Buy that issue of SIA december 1985 where your car was used for the drive report. Dick Quinn might have more details of the cars history. He was close friends of one of the prior owners.
-
At Hershey 2004. I have often thought about chasing this car down and buying it. You got a good car. Just not stored well.
-
1
-
-
I think this is your car. I should have bought it when at hershey. December 1985 in special interest autos magazine.
-
By chance is this cars serial number 7140962? If so than I know some of its history. Looks like the same car. Has the speedometer show about 38000?
-
-
Year and model info would help.
-
-
Double pin type.
-
Here is what's in there. I supply the rubber cushions and horn buttons. studerex@aol.com
-
As Nathan said, I would drop the pan on all motors and clean it out. You won't be sorry.
-
John
I found the wheel trim rings at Hershey you were looking for. I will post a photo later when I find the cable.
-
Mark, what are your space numbers?
-
Bill, it depends on your definition of good. I have been looking for a better one. I have a lead on several and will let you know at the end of October.
-
One important thing not mentioned is to tighten the nut with motor running. And be careful not to spin the bushing in the casting.
-
1
-
-
Try https://windshieldframes.com/index.php
They have made several for me.
-
3 hours ago, nvonada said:
There is a chance the rubber retaining blocks will not survive. Mine were brick-hard. Pictures here: Steering Wheel | 1941 Studebaker Champion (vonadatech.com)
Very nice write up. I bought a snap-on steering puller from the 50s and have no problem pulling wheels. And a customer that bought the new rubber retainers told me of a easier method to replace them and I tried it. Just break out the old hard rubber, then put a slit in the new rubber at the pin holes. Push them on and put a drop of super glue on the slit.
-
I have new horn button retaining rubbers. https://studebakerreproductions.com/steering-wheels
-
So far only found this one. I do have more, just have to locate them.
-
2
-
Horn button removal
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
Posted
I had a customer tell me of the method he used to replace the horn button retaining rubbers. I tried it on a nos retainer that had the rubber rock hard. Cut the old rubber on the backside and push out. Then on the new rubber put a slit to the pin holes to the inside edge of hole. Press the rubber between the metal plates and around the pins. Then put a drop of super glue. See photos. It works.