Mark Huston

These early trunks are not all that rare, they all ended up in attics and basements used for storage, what is really rare is a COMPLETE trunk. You have just the trunk, what you are missing is the fitted luggage that would have been inside the trunk. All of these early trunks were used for holding your luggage when traveling. From what I can see of the pictures of your trunk it has the dividers on the either side of the inside of the trunk. It was on these dividers that the different pieces of the fitted luggage would have rested on. Very few cars of this era came with a factor trunk. The trunks were an aftermarket accessories purchased from a variety of automobile parts suppliers like Western Auto. This trunk could go on any mid 20's to early 30's car with a trunk rack that would fit this size trunk. Oh, and what is even rarer than a early trunk with a complete set of luggage is an early "picnic trunk" (same size as your luggage trunk) with a complete set of dishes, utensiles and food storage containers. Now that is rare.

In the 30 plus years, I have been in the old car hobby I have had the misfortune to run in to some real dumb people ? both old car hobbyists and car show spectators. Some of my least pleasant experiences: I was at a show where I had on display two cars, a 1958 Cadillac Coupe Deville and a 1929 Studebaker Commander. Since the two cars were in different areas of the show, I would periodically go from one end of the show grounds to the other to check on the cars. On one occasion, I was approaching the 1929 Studebaker when my eyes beheld the site of a father, mother and their three kids all over my car. One child was on the hood of the Studebaker looking in the windshield, another child was held by the father with his head stuck in the drivers open window with his feet kicking against the door, the third child was hanging form the rear passenger door trying to pull himself up while kicking against the door, the mother was standing back with a big grin on her face watching the whole seen like it was a fun time at the park on a jungle gym. At this point I yelled at them to get their kids off my car. The father defended his family and told me what a SOB I was for being so RUDE and they were just looking at the car. They walked off in a big huff. On another occasion, I had my 1929 Studebaker parked with other collector cars next to a restaurant in a historic section of 1800?s stores and restaurants of a local town. We had stopped their on a car tour for lunch. When I returned to my car after lunch, I found that someone had heavily keyed the top crown of both of my front fenders when we were in having lunch. At another car show, I had on display my 1928 Studebaker President, which was an original un-restored car. I again was away from the car for awhile checking out other cars on display when I returned I found another car hobbyist had opened the drivers door, removed the bottom front seat cushion (it was laying on the grass next to the car) he had wanted to check out the construction of the hinged wood slated tool compartment cover that was located under the drivers seat. I should also mention in his inspection of the tool cover he also somehow managed to break some of the wood slates of the cover. I did not know this until after he left and while I was putting my seat back in I found the boards broken. These are some of the more serious encounters I have experienced. There have been many minor ones, the many people who have used the bumpers to rest their feet on, getting in the car to try out the back seat without asking, etc, etc. Now when I attend a car show I never leave by car for anything unless I have someone else with me to watch the car while I am away from it. I do not trust anyone around my car with out watching their every move. You cannot ever assume that they will treat your car with the same respect that you will.

The information you gave translates as follows: 1927 Standard Six, 4 Door Sedan There should be a chassis serial number behind the left front wheel on the frame. The serial number for this car will be between 1,346,001 ? 1,410,000. The engine serial numbers are EU 1 to EU 65,800 On your body plate the ?EU? is for the 1927 Standard Six model, the ?W? stands for a 4 door sedan, and the 14192 is means this is the 14,192nd EU 4 door body built by Studebaker in this series. Note: I have corrected this message because my first reply gave some incorrect information. It is a shame when you get older and the bi-focals don't focuse as well as they should.

The incident occurred yesterday, Saturday at about 3pm in the afternoon. There was very little traffic and at the time, she went around me and cut me off making a right turn there were no other cars in sight.

Can I rant for a minute? This past week I have been working on getting my 1929 Studebaker President ready for the final car show of the season. For me the only car show of the season. I have neglected the car this past year and have not had it out of the garage for about 8 months. After rebuilding the fuel pump (how does a fuel pump go bad just sitting it the garage when it was running when I parked the car?). I had the Studebaker cleaned and running and took off for a test drive. Now for the rant, I was driving at the speed limit of 45 mph on a 4 lane divided main drag in our neighborhood. I was cruising along in the right hand lane when I looked in my rear view mirror and saw a women driving a little foreign car talking on a cell phone come up on my ear bumper. She proceeded to tailgate me until she got tired of the view then pasted me on the left. Just as she got ahead of me on the left she started to change lanes again cutting in front of me at the same time she was breaking to make a right turn. I had to hit the brakes to keep from rear-ending her as she made her right turn. There are times when I wonder if intelligence tests should be administered in order to obtain a drivers license. Now I know why I have not driven my Studebaker for the last 8 months. After next weekends car show I might now have it out of the garage for another year.

I found both books at this web site: http://www.mystudebaker.com/manuals.html They are listed as: 801284 Body Parts Manual All 1929-40 6 & straight 8 cars $20.00 801282 Chassis Manual 1929-40 straight 8 cars $35.00 You have a Commander sedan with wire wheels & side mount fenders. The Commander with dual side mounts was called a Regal Commander. The Standard Commander came with wood wheels rear mounted spare. Also, the Commander could have been purchased with a six cylinder engine (called a GJ Commander) in either the Standard or Regal trim. The trim level of the FD Commander 8 included wood grain finish on the dash and window garnish moldings. On the GJ Commander the dash and window garnish was painted one of body colors. As far as the original color, you would need to look at any unexposed parts of the body for original paint. Sometimes the body color paint code is painted on the body panel under the bottom cushion of the back seat. There are no suppliers that I know of that have interior kits for Studebakers. You would need to find a good upholstery shop that is familiar with early cars. Also, get pictures of other FD Commander sedans for examples of what your car should look like.

In 1929 Studebaker only had available for side mount covers a canvas material wheel cover. There are many original pictures showing the covers with the Studebaker wheel logo. The metal side mount covers did not come out until 1931. For side mount mirrors they are an after market accessory. If you buy a set be sure they are a matching pair and in good condition. Sometimes it is more cost effective to buy a reproduction pair of side mount mirrors than original ones. Also, side mount mirrors that use leather strips are less destructive to you?re your spar tires than the chain type. Available in reprint are two books that will be helpful to you. They are the Studebaker Eight 1929 to 1942 Body Parts book and the Studebaker Eight 1929 to 1942 Chassis Parts book. Both can be found on the internet from auto book dealers. I currently own a 1929 President; I have also owned a 1928 President and a 1929 FD Commander. If you have any questions let me know. I have an original literature collection and might be able to help with some of your questions.

The frame serial number you gave are for the 1929-30 FD Commanders. The serial number series for the 1929-30 FD Commanders is: 8,000,001 to 8,025,000. The fact that the car has "President" on the dash only means someone at some time in the past placed it there instead of the Correct "Commander" decal. Another way to confirm your car is a Commander is the wheel base. A Commander has a 120 inch wheel base. The President wheel base for the FE is 135 inches and the FH President is 125. Also, the President has a Dual Coil ignition, the Commander has a single coil. The President has two barrel Carburetor and the Commander is a single. Another way to confirm your car is a Commander is by the engine number. On most early car titles the engine number was used as the VIN number. For a Commander the engine number should begine with FD, for a President the engine number begines with FE.

What kind of information are you looking for? What year is the car? Give me some more information and I will see what I have that can be of help to you.

Total production for the model year 1935 was 120,374. This number comes from the 1977 edition of "The Production Figure Book for U.S. Cars" by Jerry Heasley. The book gives specific model/body style production numbers also, what model are you looking for the production numbers on?

Replacement bulbs are still available at most auto supply stores, or they can be found at stores that specialize in Ford Model A parts. Another source for original bulbs and the newer high intensity bulbs (in 6 volt), and other auto bulbs, is Restoration Supply in Reno, NV. Restoration Supply Company, 2060 Palisade Dr, Reno, NV 89509, (775) 825-5663 When using the new higher intensity bulbs in cars of the 20? and 30?s you need to be careful about the amount of heat these bulbs generate. The excess heat can crack your lenses and the light bucket. The headlights and taillights were not designed for the amount heat these new bulbs generate. If your reflectors in the light buckets are restored and polished your lights should be just fine with the original 6-volt bulbs.

If you are using off the shelf new battery cables than that is your problem. You need to have custom made cables to get the right length and size cable with the correct size terminal connections on the end. Some welding supply companies can make custom battery cables. Another thing to keep in mind you might need to ?re-polarize? your generator if you have been running the car very long with the battery cables reversed.

Studebakers for many years had a positive ground. I am not sure at what point this practice ended (possibly the 50's?). If your car is one of the ones with a positive ground your positive cable would have connected to some point on the frame and your negative cable to the starter. If you connect the cables in reverse your AMP gauge will show you have a discharge when in fact you have a positive charge.

Richard, I am sorry to hear you nearly got clobbered at the local gas station. I have had many near misses driving my old cars; fortunately I have never been hit. Several years ago a friend of mine was out for a spin in his 1929 Graham-Paige 4 door sedan when he needed gas. He stopped at a gas station and was at the pump filling the Graham up when some local kids were in the process of leaving the station. The young 17-year-old driver in his fathers jacked up 4-wheel drive truck decided for some unknown reason to back around real fast (screwing off for his friends in the truck) instead of pulling out of the station in the direction he was facing. In the process of backing up the young driver backed right into the center of the passenger side of the Graham-Paige. He hit hard enough to push in the both passenger side doors and break the center doorpost. My friend’s wife was stilling sitting in the front passenger seat when the car was hit and she required medical attention at the accident seen. The only ones qualified to repair the car (wood bodied sedan) was an antique car restoration shop. The young drivers insurance company tried to total out the Graham-Paige and just pay off and not have to repair the car. My friend threatened to sue for damages plus the repairs. So, the insurance company finally agreed to get the car fixed. The bill was very big. Every time I stop for gas in my 1929 Studebaker I think of my friend and what he went through and worry about some idiot hitting me. Sorry to hear Richard that you got hit. Now you just confirmed my worse nightmare just might come true yet.

First thing you should do if you are seriously considering purchasing this vehicle is get the VIN number. Then contact your local police department or highway patrol and request the VIN number be checked nationally to see if it has ever been reported stolen. Once you have confirmed that it is not stolen (as best you can at this point) then contact your state department of motor vehicles and find out what the procedure is for replacing a ?lost? title. Here in California there is a form the DMV uses called ?statements of fact? that is filled out if you have lost your title. This allows you to re-register a vehicle that has been out of the system for a number of years when you misplaced your copy of the title.

The serial number is for the Canadian built 1929 Studebaker FD Commander.

Contact Richard Quinn, editor of the Antique Studebaker Review. I belive he has information regarding the brakes of this car. He can be reached at: Rtq11@aol.com What little I know (could be incorrect) of this car is that this the first car Studebaker had with hydraulic brakes. The brakes worked off of a pump in the transmission. The brakes only worked if the car was moving forward, in reverse or a very low speed you had no hydraulic brakes. As a result this design did not last but one or two model years and was replaced by the 4 wheel mechanical brakes that came out in 1928 on all Studebakers.

Stude8, Here in the River Delta area that I live in I have lots of marine shops around and will check into your suggestion and see if I can come up with something. RichardF, Yes we had fun and I am looking forward to another drive. The problems with the carb does not keep me from driving the Studebaker, just does not make it as enjoyable as it could be. Guffin, The problem I am having is the air/fuel mixture is not correct. No matter what I do or the rebuilder we can't get the air fuel mixture correct due to the pot metal being "warped and distorted" My rebuilder did a lot of work trying to fix the warped and cracked pot metal but it just is not right. I must say this carb should have been a parts donor instead of rebuilding it. But I have way over a thousand dollars into it and still am not happy with the way it performs, or lack of performance. I know the problem is in the carburetor because I have taken the same model carburetor off of my brothers '29 Studebaker and put it on my car and it runs perfectly. Put mine back on and it runs terrible again. And no, my brother will not let me keep his carburetor on my car, he notices the difference.

I have 1929 Studebaker President that uses a Stromberg "UU-2" Updraft (2 barrel for a 337 straight eight). This carburetor is made of pot metal and I have had to have it rebuilt 3 times. I don?t blame the rebuilder for this; it is the 70-year-old pot metal that is the problem. It is impossible to get and maintain the correct jet sizes and clearances with this unstable old pot metal. My question is this: What late model carburetor can be interchanged with this Stromberg? There used to be a company making the Zenith Universal carburetors that were designed to be replacements for just about any model car or engine. I understand that they are no longer being made. The car is a driver, not a show car trailer queen. Any ideas what else I could use?

Bill, It is a 1924 WHAT?, not a 1922 WHAT?.

A couple years ago I acquired a 1929 Studebaker President Brougham. It was a mostly original car that in the past had been repainted a solid red over the original two tones of green and brown. In the process of mechanically fixing the car I took off the front-end sheet metal (fenders, hood, splash aprons, etc.) When I removed the front fenders and the original felt pad between the fenders and frame I found fingerprints in the paint. When the 1929 Studebaker Presidents where built the chassis was standard black, expect for any model with a lighter color fenders. Presidents with the lighter color fenders had the front 1/3 and back 1/3 of the chassis (frame, axels, gas tank etc.) painted fender color. In the case of my car the factory color of the fenders is a light brown. At some point during the assembly process the front and back 1/3 of the black chassis had to be painted a light brown to match the light brown fenders. This must have been done during the assembly process because the paint was still wet enough that the assembly line worker left his fingerprints in the paint as the felt pad was laid and the front fenders installed.

To help in your search you need to include what model and engine is in your Dad's Studebaker. A Dictator 6 water pump is not the same as a President 8, etc.

Richard, I am really sorry to have to admit in public that I have not driven my old car since June! My excuse has been the remodeling of our house and yard. With the job still demanding 40 plus hours a week, and the home remodeling, the old car hobby has suffered. The sad fact is that I still have lots of work to do at home, so a weekend drive will be is a well-needed break. I will be attending Turlock this weekend and that is going to kick-start a new old car season. Also, I plan to attend the CCCA Summer Grand Classic that is being held in the California Bay Area this summer. Maybe you and I can hook up and drive over there together? I think it would be great to an informal weekend tour. I will ask around and see if we can get some others interested. Stay in touch and lets get a weekend set aside.

This past Monday was a holiday, or should I say an official excuse not to work, anyway, I took my 1929 Studebaker President out for a drive. With all the conflicts this past year I had not driven the car since June. The high here in the fog filled Sacramento Valley of California was 48 degrees and misty. It was a great drive except for the woman who pulled out in front of me with out looking. Got to try out the mechanical breaks, they stopped the car with in a few inches of her door. Enjoy your driving, but be careful.

A guy in Lewiston, Idaho has an ad in the current issue of the Antique Studebaker Review for 1929 FD Commander parts for sale that includes an engine. His email address is: jcschach@lewiston.com