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Mark Huston

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Everything posted by Mark Huston

  1. As a member of the Northern California Chapter of the Antique Studebaker Club there are no resources to restore the car or a place to display or store the car after restoration as a club project. It is a nice thought, wish we could. The only one I can think of in Northern California is the car museum in Old Sacramento, but, I don't think they have money to do it either. They might take the car "as is" for display, as long as it is somewhat presentable and they could work up a display "theme" around it in its present condition. Your only real hope is to establish a value and sell the car as is to a car collector who would like to restore the car. It is expensive and a very long term project. As far as value goes, well, it all depends on condition (running or not), body style and equipment. An old saying in the car hobby "If the top goes down the price goes up" and anything with 4 doors is on the bottom of the price list. For you and your family I am sure there is more sentimental value than actual value in the car, but for the collector car market you have to weigh the condition and body style against cost of restoration. Hope this helps, contact me if I can be of further assistance.
  2. It is hard to tell from this picture, not enough of the car is showing to be sure. The only part of the car that looks like it is a Studebaker is the rear bumper. The 1931-33 Studebakers used the one bar bumper with the "V" dip in the center. The belt line that wraps around to the back of the car looks like what Studebaker used in '32-33, but it seems a little larger than what Studebaker used, but I am could be wrong. Not enough of the car is showing to be sure.
  3. Another thing to check for is make sure all your ground straps and battery ground cable have good clean connections. This includes frame to engine, and battery to engine or frame. If you painted everything durring the rebuild (frame & engine) and then attached your ground straps or cables you will have paint interfering with your grounds and this can cause the problem you are having. Nice clean paint looks great, but messes up the electrical circuit.
  4. The AACA has an extensive manual you can buy, and they have some, if not all the infomation you will need on line. Go to: <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/judging/index.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/judging/index.htm</A> The link to the AACA is also in the upper left column of this page under Participating Clubs.<BR>There is also information to order your own hard copy. Join the AACA and have a good time with your truck.
  5. Congratulations on trying to do such a thorough job on your restoration. Now I have to ask, why try to add non-orginal parts to such a complete restoration? If you want power steering and brakes you must be willing to take the deductions when it is time to judge. After all when you are done and up against another truck with just as good of a restoration in the same judging class and is completly stock, why should you get the award over him? Now is the time to decide what do you really want, awards or a fun driver? If the drive, add the later equipment, serious judging and awards? leave off the later equipment. The only exceptions is it is ok to add the equipment if you can provide factory information showing that that truck could left the factory with that same equipment in 1960.
  6. With out seeing the light in question I realy don't know what you have got there (can you post a picture of the light?) In general if you have automobile lights with one having green lense and another having red, you could have a set of running board safty lights. In the 20's they used the boating set up starboard and port - green & red for the running board safty lights. Studebaker used this same green/red configuration in the jewels on the sides of their 1929-30 President model headlights. I don't know of any other use of the green/red lense as pertainnig to early cars. Does someone else?
  7. I don't know why Plymouth set your car up with the rubber front. My experience with 1928-29 Studebakers has been the high end models (Presidents) had a carpeted front floor that matched that of the rear, and the next lower model level (Commander) had rubber on the front floor. On both of these model lines there was only ash receivers in the rear doors. This problem was solved by early owners who attached after market ash receivers to the dash. I have examples from both cars, one set of onxy and another chromed metal set. Since they are not original factory equipment I can not reinstall them unless I take up smoking again.
  8. You can get more information for the Rockne by going to the Antique Studebaker Club home page: <A HREF="http://antiquestudebakerclub.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://antiquestudebakerclub.com/</A> <BR>For some help with the serial number go to the Antique Studebaker Club identification page: <A HREF="http://antiquestudebakerclub.com/i_d__car_part_2.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://antiquestudebakerclub.com/i_d__car_part_2.htm</A> <BR>Studebaker during these years had 3 ID numbers used on their cars. You had an engine number, serial number on the frame and body number. The tag you have under the hood on the cowl will identify the body type and the production number of that body, sometimes the tag will give a code for the type of the interior the factory installed. An example of a cowl tag could be: 30C-111 (this would be model 30 Rockne C for coupe and the 111th body built) This is a possiblity based on other Studebakers that I have had experince with. I have not seen a Rockne tag for 1932. If you let me know what is on it I will help you further. The frame serial number is all numbers - no letters. If you need additional help feel free to email me and I will be happy to help.
  9. The Rockne was a Studebaker built car. It was priced in from $585 to $795 range. Production for the Rockne started on December 15, 1931 in South Bend, Ind. for the 1932 model year. Production ended in July 1933 when the Rockne and the Studebaker Six lines were replaced by the model A Dictator Six for the 1934 model year.
  10. Using modern coolant/antifreeze in cars of the 20's can be a problem in a couple of areas. One is the foaming of the coolant. I have had this happen in my '29. It does not work since the old systems are not presurized. Second, the radiator caps are not designed to seal as tight as a presurized system they will allow some air in (causing foaming) and also will allow some water/coolant to splash out onto the hood. This will cause damage to the paint (I have experienced this also). Here in California I don't have the freezing conditions so all I run in my car is water soluble oil as a rust preventive and water pump lubricant. I don't have any problems over heating even on the hotest days (around 100). Works fine. Now if I lived in snow country I would look for another solution.
  11. I have mixed feelings about this topic. Yes, I agree that younger people need to be incouraged towards old cars. But, at the same time I need to protect my cars from them and their parents at times. I have quit going to car shows, and only attend tours. The reason, to many people abuse the cars at shows. They think that since the cars are on display without ropes around them that it is open season and anything goes. The last time I took my '29 Studebaker to a show I had the windows down so people could see in and to keep them from trying to open the doors and breaking the pot metal door handles. At this showe I left the car for a second and returned to find a father holding his childs head through the window while the kid was kicking the door with his feet and their other child was already on the front fender headed for the hood to look in the windshild and the mother was looking on beaming at her darlings ingenuity. I was not very polite to that couple or their children. Did I ruin it for the hobby, I don't think so, to them an old car was just a hunk of metal with no value. Some people can't and won't be converted. But, I do agree we should try where we can, at those times I give it my best.<P>
  12. I have used the Volvo OD in an antique car. A friend of mine here in Northern California is a machinest and he set up the conversion for me. I had a 1928 Studebaker President with a 4.3 rear end. The car was about a 50-55 mph car with the stright 8 engine and that low rear end. With the mid 70's Volvo 4 speed OD I had a car that cruised all day at 60-65 with no sweat, had it up to 75 one time for couple hours crossing the Salt Flats of UT. With the Volvo transmission in overdrive my ratio worked out to 3.4. There was a lot of machining that had to be done, new drive shaft made, etc. The only problem that I never worked out was the parking brake. The parking braked worked off the back of the old transmission. Could not do that with the Volvo OD unit. My friend has put these Volvo unites in several cars including other Studebakers, a 1933 Marmon and a few others. It is a good unit. I made one trip with the Volvo OD in my President where I drove for 2 weeks, 3,000 miles through 5 states. Over many mountains and when I needed extra pulling power I either down shifted or kicked it out of overdrive. When I was off the grade kicked it back into overdrive. Worked perfect. If you got a engine with the right horsepower, the time and money to make it work, it is a good way to go. The only draw back is you can forget about ever showing your car again, unless you want to be in the modified/hot rod class, and it might effect the value of your car on resale down the road.<BR>
  13. res1967 ~ With the first Chrysler built in 1924 all Chrysler's have had juice brakes, or more correcly known as hydraulic brakes. If you do not pedal pressure at all this would mean you have lost hydraulic pressure from either a loss of fluid in the system or your master cylinder needs rebuilding (possibly also your wheels cylinders while your at it). To much air in the system will cause a loss of brake pedal pressure. As far as the location of the master cylinder on a '41 Chrylser I don't know (never have owned one), should be either under the hood or under the drivers side front floor board. You should be able to trace your brake lines back to the master cylinder. I would recommend you contact a member of the Chrysler club and see if there are any service or factory repair manuals being reproduced for your car. They are always a great source of knowledge.<BR>A side note here. About 20 years ago a friend of mine bought a '24 Chrysler 2 door sedan from the original owner. He drove the car home with out checking it out very carefully. He went to pull the car into the garage and the 4 wheel hydraulic brakes failed at just that moment and the big heavy Chrysler was then stoped only by the crushing action of his wife's clothes washer and dryer being driven through the garage wall into the house. My friends wife never did like her husbands hobby and now she really hated it. My friend ended up haveing to buyer a new cloths washer and dryer, repair the wall and sold the Chrysler.
  14. hvs - Please excuse my faulty brain cells, I am recovering from surgery and trying to keep from going insane from boredom. I rechecked my records and you are right. My fried brains cells got confused and the company I used was "The James A. Grundy Agency", I took out the policy on July 18, 1996. This time I looked it up (should have done that in the first place), my apologies for not looking this up the first time.
  15. I do not offten post a reply here, but in this case since I have had experience with both insurance companies mentioned so far I thought I would add my 2 cents worth. I use J.C. Taylor and recommend them highly. About 20 years ago I had a 1929 Studebaker Commander sedan that was a solid driver in original condition. I had a full coverage policy with J.C. Taylor that was less than 100.00 a year that I took out on the car about 3 months before I left on a long trip with the '29. I trailered the car from Northern California to Las Vegas NV to a car meet. On the Return trip I hit a wind storm out in the Sourthern California desert that did major damage to my '29. I was using a open car trailer. When I got home I called J.C. Taylor, they sent a claims agent out right away and within a couple days I was paid in full for the damage to the car. Now with that experience like a fool years later I changed cars and decided for the heck of it to try another old car insurance company. I switched to Grundy. I don't know why, just did. Anyway, sending in the yearly renewal payment is a not priority for my spouse and her timing was a little slow and I got a policy cancellation notice from Hargerty & Grundy. I called to find out why. They received the payment 1 day late and instead of applying the payment to an excisting policy they cancelled the policy sent me the notice and returned my check. I was told that if I wanted to continue with them I would have to reapply and the application would have to be revewed and I would be notified if I was going to be issued a new policy. I said the heck with that I called J.C. Taylor and got a new policy right away and have been with them ever since with no problems. I now have a 1929 Studebaker President Brougham and have full coverage for slightly more than 100.00 a year. Can't beat the service and coverage for that. <P>[ 09-09-2001: Message edited by: Mark Huston ]<p>[ 09-10-2001: Message edited by: Mark Huston ]
  16. Neil, <BR>I found the site, the web address is: <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/rdfeature2/lit-061001.html" TARGET=_blank>http://members.aol.com/rdfeature2/lit-061001.html</A>
  17. What year and make or model car are you looking for? If you tell use what car you want the hood ornament for it would better able use to help you.
  18. I do not recall what year the car was, it had been modified, but as I recall the car was either a 1950 or 1951 Starlight Coupe. The front end styling was unique to these two years, there was trim diffrence but it had been removed for the movie. The car was either a Champion or Commander. But again, due to the movie modifications you could not tell. The Studebaker Drivers Club's magazine "Turning Wheels" had a write up on this car years ago when the movie came out. I think they had it identified but I don't recall any more.
  19. I had contracted to have a shipment delivered from North Carolina. The independent trucker that was hired to bring it out had never been to California before. He got into Nevada and discovered the legal houses of prostitution. Well I called for 2 weeks trying to find out what happened to the truck. Everyone was looking for that truck and driver. He turned up when he maxed out his credit cards and spent all of his cash. Another lesson learned.
  20. Here is a source for Trippe lights and Pilot Rays. My brother bought a set of lights from him. I know he restores Trippe lights and might have parts. His name and number are: Jim, Ph# 818-785-7246 in Van Nuys, CA
  21. Just a quick note in response to the 6 volt to 8 volt battery swap. I had a 1929 Studebaker that still had an all original wiring harness, starter, etc. I was told about the 8 volt battery swap for quicker starts. I tried it the next time my 6 volt batter died. For me it did not work. I quickly lost my bulbs and I had other electrical problems. It has been a few years ago, I can't recall all the problems. One that I do recall is this model had a buzzer that went off if there was a dead short. For the first time in the 20 years I had that car the buzzer went off right after I started to drive it with the 8 volt and it sounded like a rattle snake in the dash, scared the life out of me. Anyway, I switched back to the 6 volt and ran the car that way until I later sold it. Now to be fair the 8 volt swap may have had nothing to do with the timing of the buzzer going off it might have happened anyway.
  22. Thank you all for your assistance, I will give your suggestions a try. There is no black showing through, just yellowed/stained white walls.
  23. I purchased a vintage car with the large 4 inch white wall tires. The wide white walls have never been cleaned. What is the best product out there to clean them up and keep the white walls looking good? I have never had this style tire before and don't know what to do with them, short of buying a set of black wall tires. They look real bad.<BR>Any ideas?
  24. What kind of information do you need? I have a multi make service manual for tune up and carburators. Is that what you need? If so email me with your info and I will copy for you.
  25. I bought a 1929 Studebaker President. The President has 39 spoke, 5 lug, 19inch wheels with a 9 1/4 hub cap opening. The car came with some extra wheels. The 4 extra wheels are 40 spoke, 6 lug, 19 inch with 9 1/4 hub cap opening. Someone told me that the 4 extra wheels might be for a Pierce-Arrow, does anyone know if this could be true? Does anyone think they know what these extra 4 wheels might be for?
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