old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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1 hour ago, LedRush said:
In order to bypass the mech pump, do you loop the inlet and outlet with hose? (after rerouting the fuel line)
No, just used compressed air to blow out residual fuel. Fuel came out of the outlet and the discharge hole below the diaphragm. Still using the vacuum assist.
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Use 12 gauge wire to the electric pump. 14 gauge will give too much voltage drop and shorten the life of the pump....
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The last heavy chunk to install is the air conditioning compressor. I have done this many times using the gorilla technique. With an aching back I had to come up with a different technique.
Using the engine hoist was easier but took longer. It is never easy to line it up on three studs. On top of that the back brace attaches to the intake manifold and to an exhaust manifold bolt and there is interference at that manifold this time because I used a different manifold. Grind the brace to make it fit so it's perfect.
Well phooey, engine running bad after I started it because I knocked the vacuum line off. On top of that the fuel pump is leaking... Double shucky darn. I've been carrying a piece of fuel line to bypass the mechanical pump and just use the electric pump so that's what I'm going to do until I get another mechanical pump. Also with air conditioning compressor installed it is much harder to change the mechanical pump. Someday I'm going to get to drive this car again.
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Wix 51121 or made by Wix (NAPA 1121 or Carquest 85121); Purolator L40124; Baldwin P25
Best price is the Purolator L40124 on Zoro.
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32 minutes ago, john compono said:
thinking about putting a complete ac/heat defrost system in my 55 buick. Does anybody know which one to use ? heard vintage air was good and hurricane but just wanna make sure I get the right unit from the best company who supplies the whole complete unit. any help guy's I would appreciate.
Use the original system for heat, defrost and vent. For a/c under dash unit will cool best. There is limited room for a clean install of those combo units.
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2 hours ago, EmTee said:
What kind/brand of head gasket did you use? Do you recheck torque after that initial start (after cool-down) before buttoning everything up for the last time?
FEL-PRO FS7613SH2 High compression 0.015 embossed steel. These gaskets have a coating the aids sealing, but I spray with K&W 401612 Copper Coat Aerosol. Never have needed to check torque.
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4 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Do you leave the fan belt off during this run? And are there guidelines for "a few minutes"?
Fan belt off...don't want to run the water pump dry. Usually 2 minutes will get the cylinder head up to 150*. Another reason for doing this is that if there is a problem and reason to tear into it again, there is no water or coolant to deal with.
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2 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:
Can I ask the reason why you run it for a couple of minutes without coolant? Not heard this one before.
Thanks Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
I've always done it that way since my mentor long ago said to do it. The idea is that the cylinder head will get hot and expand and push against the gasket and there's no water in the way to compromise a seal. Never a failure.
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Set it at 5-7 and call it good. And move on to other projects.
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18 hours ago, NTX5467 said:
Centrifugal advance starts at about 600rpm.
An old Chiltons manual says 375rpm. Anyhow, apply the parking brake, chock the wheels, carb off the fast idle cam, put it in drive and you will be close enough. (just don't forget and rev the engine at this point)
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59 minutes ago, EmTee said:
Ha - I thought you were going to say: "the difference between a mechanic and a surgeon is that the surgeon washes his hands before performing the operation."
That works too.
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13 hours ago, old-tank said:
Very short list.
Gasket set, main bearing set, timing chain, solvents, sealers.
3 months.
Tools made: valve spring compressor, bearing shell extractor.
Less than $500. But good to have an old friend back in service.
I forgot about hand cleaner. "the difference between a mechanic and a surgeon is that the mechanic washes his hands before going to the restroom"
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On 2/25/2024 at 4:15 PM, Beemon said:
list of parts
Very short list.
Gasket set, main bearing set, timing chain, solvents, sealers.
3 months.
Tools made: valve spring compressor, bearing shell extractor.
Less than $500. But good to have an old friend back in service.
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1 hour ago, buickbrothers said:
Engine dies before the idle gets down to that RPM - not a physically cannot turn screws to get it down to that RPM. Please clarify "return spring"? Are you indicating linkage return spring or something else? It's correct per photo's before tear down.
Linkage return spring. May have to lengthen throttle rod. Pic of spring connection?
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Measuring dwell with electronic ignition is meaningless.
The vacuum gauge fluctuations are probably due to unequal lobes in the distributor.
Idle down? Engine dies before the idle gets down to that RPM or physically cannot turn screws to get it down to that RPM.
Return spring location incorrect?
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these are the Remflex gas gets used on a 1955 Buick. Make note of the numbers so I don't have to look it up for you in my files since they aren't listed on their website for a 55 Buick. And if you don't of course I'll cheerfully look them up for you. 😁
Looking up at the exhaust flange where the gasket goes. In the past I've used tape or adhesive to hold the gasket in place while I assembled the exhaust pipe. So why didn't anybody tell me to use a rubber band?
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All assembled except for the air conditioning compressor so it's time to start it.
With a fire extinguisher and pressurized hose nearby I hooked up the battery and there was no smoke or sparks.
Activated the electric fuel pump ...no leaks.
Turned on the ignition and pressed the gas pedal and... Clunk
Again clunk
(WTH)... I had just rolled engine over to verify the timing marks with the distributor.
Activated the starter from under the hood and there was sparking at the battery: loose battery cable.
Corrected that and it fired on the first piston up. I let it run for a couple of minutes to expand the cylinder head against the gasket and then after a little cool down I added water. With water in the system I ran it for another 30 minutes no leaks, system pressurized.
And this time good oil pressure!
Idle is a little high so I need to check for vacuum leaks and set the timing and take it for a test run.
Find my friends again put the hood on so I can take it out and drive it like I stole it.
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Harmon Classic Brakes used to sell all those parts that you need.
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I worked and worked to get mine sealed up tighter than a bull's ass in fly season. I was happy with the results until I opened the vent and then it was screaming like a banshee.
Try without the vent or try cracking a window.
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6 volt batteries require a longer charge time usually overnight versus 2 to 3 hours for a 12 volt battery.
The later 320 engines used a smaller belt and pulley, maybe you can find some to swap.
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1 hour ago, KAD36 said:
Since everything is going swimmingly and the engine went in with time to spare, what will you be drinking around with next? 😆.
An hour…that’s hustlin’….not your first rodeo huh 👍 😎. Good to hear it’s going well.
Looking at the car I have only a couple of days work to get it finished which will turn into two weeks.
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On 2/9/2024 at 7:30 PM, old-tank said:
It's in. (It's the engine I'm talking about).
A few comments on the install. I was lucky enough to have a couple of friends come over at the same time. Both are knowledgeable on tools and cars and everything went smoothly. One asked what size the tool needed for the engine stand to engine was. I went to get a power tool to zip it off and when I turned around he already had it loose and the other guy had the engine swinging over the car. A little dancing with the transmission jack load leveler, engine hoist and frame jack and it was mated and the lower bell housing bolts were installed. The hood which is on top of the car was moved to saw horses and the car was pushed out of that bay to the bay that has my service pit. All that took less than an hour and since they came over early I didn't even want any beer.
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42 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
You could have used the Aussie slang word!
Ben
I'm afraid to ask.
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Richard
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these are the Remflex gas gets used on a 1955 Buick. Make note of the numbers so I don't have to look it up for you in my files since they aren't listed on their website for a 55 Buick. And if you don't of course I'll cheerfully look them up for you. 
1955 Buick low oil pressure?
in Buick - Post War
Posted