old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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I had one that blew fluid out of the vent at the top of the transmission but only at highway speeds.
You need to find out where it is leaking and when it is leaking engine running or not.
The upper part of the transmission filler tube needs to be against the lower portion of the transmission filler tube and then coupled together.
As a test drain the transmission pan and measure what you drained out; there should only be about 4 quarts in the transmission pan. Do this after it had been running and shifting into years okay since with disuse the torque converter can drain into the pan over filling it.
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Later nailheads have different engine mounts, different trans mounts. Later dynaflows will not attach to the torque tube.
Even if it were easy I would not install a step gear transmission.
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2 hours ago, EmTee said:
That is disgusting.
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1 hour ago, buickbrothers said:
The brake pedal is very slow to come back up after pressing the pedal.
Check that the spring is in place, then try it with the boot loose from the booster. Report back.
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36 minutes ago, Schmiddy said:
coat of arms of the city of Bern Switzerland
You knew we were going to look it up...
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I put it together so I can move it around and drive a little bit locally. The 5-year-old Remflex flange gaskets where reused with no issues. I don't sell them but I'll recommend them.
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Looking at the video again I noticed the position of the distributor. All of my nailheads with a properly installed, timed and adjusted distributor the vacuum advance is pointing to the inside corner of the valve cover. When I had pertronix installed in order to get it to run and timed correctly the vacuum advance was pointing toward the fender. Also the terminals inside the distributor which usually have a spark sweep across the whole terminal with pertronics it was only at one corner of the terminal. Your vacuum advance is pointing toward the fender. My suggestion is to install a distributor with the original points and condenser and see how it works out. Easier and cheaper than removing cylinder heads and buy another gasket set.
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20 minutes ago, buickbrothers said:
Am I accurate in thinking the rod mix is behind the timing mark/vacuum variations? I've provided a video for reference:
I don't think so. Before you start tearing into the engine, try pouring some lubricant down the carb like Marvel mystery oil. Machine shops will sometimes set the valve to guide clearance too tight like the chevy engines they are used to.
Did it ever run with the pertronix before the rebuild?
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3 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:
@old-tank wanna upgrade to a 364?
Nope...too many differences and work.
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34 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:
Worst case scenario, pull the engine
Sounds easy if you say it real fast...
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1 hour ago, Smartin said:
Could be off a tooth
Hopefully it's just the distributor installed one tooth off; if the timing chain was installed one tooth off there's a lot of disassembly.
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1 hour ago, buickbrothers said:
does it really have to be at 200-300 rpm exactly?
No, just slow as possible so that the mechanical advance is not in play and contributing to any timing observed with the light.
I don't see how a 55 balancer can "slip".
It may be the camshaft if replaced, so forget about the timing light and set with a vacuum gauge.
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Is the vacuum advance disconnected and the engine idling at 200to 300 RPM?
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Group 12 of my 55 service manual gives frame to floor measurements. Yours may also. But that will not help at this time.
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19 minutes ago, 195354 said:
Willy
You keep bringing up cam bearings is this a problem area. Do you suspect it flaking out or the bearing rotating in the block. I have seen this on engines in the past block turns black at the problem area if they spin much.
Steve
Answer to your question is pending tear down.
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Removed the windage tray and there is similar material starting at the front. I am guessing front cam bearing. Putting it back together so I can move it around. Waiting for help and cooler weather. Maybe I will trailer it to Lamar's shop?? If I leave now I might have lots of help!
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It should hold up to gasoline but you could try a test in gasoline before installing.
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14 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:
Been near impossible to find an o-ring that is the right size
Just make one. Get one of the desired diameter and larger than needed, cut to size and then glue the ends together with super glue.
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On 10/16/2023 at 2:15 PM, NC-car-guy said:
No offense but won't it really limit your search if you have to know the person first?
No offense taken but after buying parts and cars since the 1980's there have been some "disappointments" in the representation of the items. If the items were close by so I could my own inspection...maybe. If buying from BCA members who are friends...for sure.
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BCA members can access other members contact information. Also I cannot supply copies of the body manuals to non-members since in the past some of those monetized the manuals by putting them on eBay.
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Save those for show conversation piece and install some good quality halogen lights.
Before I did that the only time I had good lights is if a little car was driving behind me and shining underneath my car.
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Thanks for the links but too far away from unknown sellers.
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Talked to machine shop...engine needs pulled of course...needs total disassembly, tanked then inspected, total rebuild...up tp 2 months.
Gas will be stale by then and I will have forgotten how to put it together. Looking for a running engine now.
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Are you a BCA member?
55 Buick Special Headlight Bezel Mounting Brackets
in Buick - Post War
Posted
That was just Buick's way of sealing that location nobody will see it so I just use some black RTV.