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Posts posted by old-tank

  1. My standard answer:  check the ignition first.  Be sure all parts are good.  New plugs since fouled plugs make the engine weak. Points adjusted correctly.  Get a dwell-tach to check idle speed to set timing (350rpm) and then to set idle speed at 550-650rpm.  Check that dwell is around 30* and does not vary with engine speed.

    Next be sure the accelerator pump is working.  You should never need starting fluid on a down draft carb...a couple of pumps on the accelerator and even a cold engine will fire.  Be sure the choke is set correctly.

    Vacuum leaks?  Maybe.  There is only one vacuum port on the intake manifold for the wipers (by way of the fuel pump) and maybe power brakes if equipped.  Remove the lines and plug the port.  Any other leaks at intake manifold or carb will need to be sprayed with wd40 or carb cleaner while running to see if rpm changes.

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  2. 18 minutes ago, jherrera55buickcentury said:

    This is gonna sound stupid but does the stretch link actually stretch?

    Yes.  It pulls the carb wide open without stretching and and then stretches to allow more rotation and activation of the stator control function.

    Be sure you don't have a replacement accelerator pedal with a stud on the bottom...it will never work without breaking the stud off.

  3. 20 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

    Will your parking brakes hold on an upgrade if the vehicle is in neutral?

    John, I don't remember ever trying.  I know that I will not depend on the park position to hold it!  Hopefully if you get the shoes adjusted and the parking brake adjusted it will help.

  4. On 11/21/2020 at 6:17 PM, JohnD1956 said:

    I hope it corrects a situation where my parking brake drags a bit going forward but fails to engage if the car is rolling in reverse direction. 

    As stated it is a parking brake and is usually adequate along with the park position of the transmission.  On all of mine if I forget to release the parking brake, I can backup with little difficulty, but going forward it will barely move...just the nature of the beast.

  5. You can do one at a time or 4.

    Install some lug bolts with the wheel off and use your longest screwdriver.

    I never did that adjustment in the past, but when I disassembled the backing plate for gold zinc plating (to mimic the original gold cad), I adjusted the pins as described and along with turning the drums and arcing the shoes it made a huge difference.

    • Like 4
  6. On 11/16/2020 at 3:24 PM, neil morse said:

    While we're looking at drive-ins ...







    Pavement marked by spinning skinny underinflated  bias-ply tires.  I found that 29 psi would make a uniform dark black mark :rolleyes:.

    And either someone got lucky and got both spinning or had a locking differential.

    • Like 1
  7. I was looking for pictures of your transmission and found this:  HERE

    So, now I know what you have.  What is the fluid level when off, idling and higher rpm?  Maybe jack up the passenger side and stuff more fluid in or add some at the vent?

    You may have to move on to a different transmission (this one is kinda high priced for a "core")...there are others out there.  

  8. How did it function before the rebuild?

    100 psi at idle:  nothing wrong with the front pump

    Forget the rear pump.  It turns off the output shaft only when the car is in motion.  No change in function even if inoperable like I said before.

    I would still like to see more fluid in that unit.

  9. 9 hours ago, highcking said:

    I'm probably going to go with the "American Classic Bias Look Radial" at $314 each. They have the "pie crust" sidewall. 

    Ask for the date code on each tire.  That vendor often ships very old tires.  Radials are a perishable product:  5-7 years even if not used.  The Diamondbacks I bought were 3 months old.

    Pie crust:  nice look, but harder to clean than the white walls.:o 

  10. On 11/9/2020 at 7:42 AM, Flying Norwegian said:

    have measured the pressure of the front pump and it is aprox 100lbs at idle (400 rpm) When I increase the rpm past 550, the preasure drops to aprox 10lbs.

    This sounds like it is sucking the pan dry when you bring up the rpm

    2 minutes ago, Flying Norwegian said:

    It is just pressed in. Took it out and is was not blocked.

    One last (probably not;)) suggestion: add some tranny fluid at that vent location.

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