old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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We attended a small regional meet this past weekend. The car and the air conditioner performed well even though the temperatures were near 100 in the dew point was near 80°.
I usually conclude my posts by saying I was out killing bugs and killing the planet. This time it was too hot for any bugs and haze smoke and ash from agricultural fires South of the border had any car driving through it an air scrubber.
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14 hours ago, B Jake Moran said:
Laughed. You folks won. Good for you. Glad you are a trailer club. Still struggling to find judges who know what they are judging. So a guy who spent $150,000 retirement money can get a plastic award his widow will toss 10 years from now while the “authentic “ 395 point Buick sits in a temperature controlled garage never to see the light of day again. People have odd explanations of the purpose for the “soul of the club”. The rest of us are just lucky you let us pay for the privilege.
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Check that an exhaust pipe is not near or touching a brake line. Loosen the shoes a few clicks. Seems that something is heating the brake fluid and expanding it.
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31 minutes ago, 48BuickRoadConv said:
i have torque ball wrong way..
Probably. Just loosen the bolts (torque ball to transmission) and rotate. May need a large channel lock or pipe wrench.
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On 5/16/2024 at 9:56 PM, Elpad said:
We are dealing with an extreme heat wave lately so it is too hot to even go topless now.
You must have opened the trunk since that's where I sent the Texas heat with you.🤣
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Use something like THIS to solder patches without flame so no boom.
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1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said:
I have seen some pictures of people who scrounged those spares and put a full set on their car with laughable results.
A neighbor put a pair on the front of his very fast drag race car...did not pass inspection at the track.
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Were these parts originally with the car and how is the fit before disassembly?
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I use the pins and apply a thin coat of high temp RTV to the gasket.
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I'm glad it is yours and not mine...been there. (still painful to watch).
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Don't worry about the pinion seal unless you are going to remove and rebuild the rear assembly. A leak from the pinion seal will have the gear oil level in the torque tube below the driveshaft and will not cause any problem. To change the pinion seal the whole rear end needs to be removed; the torque tube removed the driveshaft removed; ring gear removed; pinion removed; pinion nut removed...then you can deal with the pinion seal!
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Palnuts (Pal Nuts) ?
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Check Cadillac suppliers too.
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From my website HERE
I use the plumbing fixture.
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Ask them who the manufacturer is. Bwahahaha!
When I restored the top I could not find that part so I had it zinc-plated. Like all the other parts on that convertible it was rusty and the plating process involves soaking in hydrochloric acid and maybe hydrogen embrittlement weakened the thing.
Search hex head shoulder bolts. You will need all the dimensions if you call somebody.
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Fastenal, Granger or Google o-rings lots of people out there selling.
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housing installed with coil which means I didn't detect the leak this time. So far a different housing might be helping me. Time to finish charging and see how it works.
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2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
In the picture with the seal pressed into the housing, was that damage or deformation of the seal at the two o'clock position?
Probably oil on the seal there.
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carbon face seal with spring
seal pressed into housing
Seal seat pinned to shaft
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2 hours ago, Cowboyzzz said:
My back yard mechanic
What you need is a shade tree mechanic.
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Something that I am not understanding. The air conditioning compressor which is a 1955 general motors A5 leaks refrigerant. I pulled a vacuum and it holds overnight and you can't get any better than that. Add some refrigerant and I'm getting a leak at the front. That is after changing the seal and o-rings twice. It seems that pulling a vacuum would leak first since it's trying to pull in relatively small molecules like nitrogen and oxygen whereas the pressure with the refrigerant is large complex molecules which would leak less.
It probably leaking when it's just sitting since when the compressor is in service the seal area is under a vacuum. I didn't have this much problem years ago when I couldn't find the right o-rings. I just cut and glued them with super glue and it all worked.
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2 hours ago, Mudbone said:
I have given this a lot of thought and I decided to change the color on Project 66R…….
What do you think?
Perfect!
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8 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:22 hours ago, RetroPetro said:
Might be where the word Boat was first associated with Buicks?
Yeah, but that dynaflow translates to "does not float"
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When I replaced the tattered boot on my working power brakes, the first time I applied the brakes they stayed applied until a few minutes after shutdown. Venting the boot and it worked as designed again. If that does not work for you call the supplier.
housing installed with coil which means I didn't detect the leak this time. So far a different housing might be helping me. Time to finish charging and see how it works.
carbon face seal with spring
seal pressed into housing
Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick
in Me and My Buick
Posted
But not pertronics on an early nail head .
Flushing or boiling a radiator does nothing they will need to be roded or replaced the core.