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NTX5467

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Posts posted by NTX5467

  1. Shop clutter can really be unprocessed projects or "projects in waiting".  Just make sure there is enough room for fire fighters in full "combat gear" to be able to walk through without hitting anything, for good measure.  These "wide trails" can also allow any visitors to find their way in or out easier.  IF the floor space becomes more like a field warehouse, then get some shelves.  Increase the number of shelf units as needed.  When more floor space is needed, THEN might consider some "thinning of the herd".  NOTE:  for "private-use shops" only.  The more commercial-oriented the situation might become, the cleaner and less cluttered things must be.

     

    Just some observations,

    NTX5467

  2. Neat pictures!  "Wear" is "wear" whether it's in a DynaFlow or a THM400.  Just have to know what moves, what doesn't need to move, and what does what with the friction elements.  The main calibration areas would be inside the valve body and on the end of the band that wraps around the drum.  Plus the piston that applies the clutch pack inside the drum.  AND any fixed bushings or replaceable bearings (as pictured in one shot). 

     

    One possibly critical area would be the build thickness of "the frictions and steels" in the clutch pack.  ANY total build thickness "out of spec" can relate to ultimate "apply time" of the clutch pack once fluid is supplied behind its actuating piston.  Similar might be true with the band and the drum diameter, I suspect.

     

    Inside the valve body, that's where the "pressure-bias" springs and shuttle valves reside, which change the fluid circuits to make things happen as desired.  AND where some unseen wear can also happen.  I believe there has become a small industry of rebuilding/resurfacing the shuttle valve contact areas in the valve body?  Even replacing the shuttle valve springs, too?

     

    Also be cognizant of any lip seal/shaft wear points, usually shallow a groove in the shaft at that sealing point.  AND any shaft/bushing/seal wear points, too.  Not unlike the resulting groove in a harmonic balancer/hub from the related crankshaft front oil seal.

     

    As always getting at least "OEM Quality" seals, frictions, and such is important for long-term durability.  But for many owners, even that is "too good" for what is actually needed, I suspect.  End result, a quality rebuild with quality parts and today's better fluids could well make for a very long-term smoooooth-operating automatic transmission, I suspect.

     

    Y'all have fun!

    NTX5467

      

  3. Possibly IF those rollers hadn't become stationary, "things" would not have accumulated quite so quickly?  As large, flatter stationary objects in a "car shop" tend to accumlate items for later use, by observation, even if they've been there for an extended time.

     

    Nice stationary cart!

     

    NTX5467

  4. When the K&Ns came out, it was "ground breaking" news of sorts.  Nobody had ever really suspected a filter element media might restrict air flow into an engine . . . only size thereof, possibly.  But as more power (and air flow) was needed, with available space an issue, then the media's flow performance tended to become more of an issue.

     

    When I did a 4bbl from 2bbl upgrade on my '77 Camaro 305, I ended up with one of the knock-off GM Corvette-style open element air cleaners.  After I got things baselined and saved some money, I ended up with a new K&N element (and oil).  Seemed like I could hear a bit more induction roar, which I felt was evidence that it was less restrictive.  I had read how easy it was to wash (with their cleaner smelling just like re-packaged "409" spray cleaner).  But getting the correct amount of oil on the gauze seemed to be a problem for me.  Just how "red" should things end up?  Obviously, the oil was a part of the filtration package, so too much might not be good.  But I was lured by the longevity of the element, too.

     

    But then one of the hot rodder magazines did an air filter element test.  Surprisingly, the Motorcraft OEM-spec filter flowed about 90% of what the same size (13"x3" Corvette size) element.  For less money and less maintenance.  That's what I replaced the K&N with, at that time.  No more oily messes and such!  No more having the car disabled for a few hours as the freshly-washed element dried so it could be re-oiled.  

     

    When new, the K&Ns were a status symbol of sorts, especially with an open-element air cleaner.  But as they aged and got dirty, much less of a visual plus, even just the opposite sometimes.  With a dry element, I could usually tap the heavy particles out and then reverse-blow for the rest.  Not an option on the K&N.

     

    Now, during the volcanic issues in the USA Northwest, K&Ns were praised for keeping emergency vehicles running as the volcanic ask would clog a dry filter in short order as the K&Ns would still flow air under those situations.  Which brigngs up an unusual situation.  In that the K&Ns seem to flow just as well when dirty or clean.

     

    As for effective filtration down to a certain micron particle size rating?  Don't know that I've ever seen anything on that, just that it flows better than a stock filter element.  The suspicion is that it would meet industry OEM standards, but I don't know that I've seen that statement.  Which might raise some suspicions, in that respect.  Everybody is focused on flow through the media, not specifically how small the particle size which can get through the media.

     

    In an open-element air cleaner housing, that's one thing.  In an air filter "case", with several possible twists/turns/turbulance to deal with, probably not much improvement in real airflow.  Chrysler and a few others had flow director baffles at the inner snorkle area to direct airflow around the air cleaner's innards before it gets to the filter element.  Many others have just a straight shot to the element, which builds its own flow director baffle ON the element itself, with time.  Many issues in this area, it seems, once I thought about it.

     

    For a reasonably stock engine, to me, the added maintenance issues with the K&N ended up not being nearly as much fun as it was to own a K&N.  When a value-priced Motorcraft filter (with a known OEM-spec filter media) would work just as well for less money and "involvement of ownership", plus purchasing their spray cans of oil and spray de-greaser/cleaner.  I kind of doubt that anybody has ever tested their Million Mile Warranty, as a result.

     

    I know people have and still do purchase K&N air filters, for many "right reasons", but from my experiences over a few years, there CAN be less costly and equally beneficial options out there.  Although some specific conditions and engine requirements can make use of the benefits a K&N filter element might provide.

     

    Respectfully,

    NTX5467

    • Thanks 2
  5. Current dialouge about the turbines is that they were not properly winterized, as they would have been in northern areas where they also apparently operate without issues in cold weather.  The inspections of such were done virtually, due to the virus issues.  End result?  Assurances of "we're ready" were not completely accurate.  When the private sector seems to fail, as several entities seemed to in TX, government oversight needs to be increased.  Either from "boots on the ground" or upgraded performance specs/expectations.  With TX being a de-regulated energy state, reports of astronomical electricity bills have already surfaced.  One citizen had three meters, all of which would normally be about $600.00, have suddenly ballooned to about $5K each (reported on local tv news a day or so ago).  Another example could be a small restaurant which might normally have an energy bill of $5K/month might see their bill approach $17K/month (from another news report), which might send them out of business. 

     

    Then there's the issue with natural gas freezing in the main supply lines.

     

    Lots of little or big side issues to "winterization", which will continue to evolve as the next weeks progress.

     

    Y'all take care,

    NTX5467

     

     

  6. 9" of snow in Del Rio today, with a little bit a few days ago?  It's headed toward San Antonio.  Might want to do it in March this year, too?  Better check with your lodging provider to see if they will be open and at what price.  As many got hotel rooms when the power/gas/water went away in their homes.  Or pipes broke.

     

    NTX5467

    • Thanks 1
  7. First "ice" was last week, but mostly east of Hudson Oaks (where the dealership is).  No ice out here, just "dry" snow as the temps have been below 30 all of this time.  Got to -1 F the other night.  Back up to 20 F now, but not much colder tonight.  60 F by Monday?

     

    I made a stop at Dollar General before it all hit, on the way to work.  Then got some 6-packs (cheap, purified water) for good measure.  The rural co-op that does the electricity has been doing good.  Two 15-minute "off" periods each of the last two days.  Nothing today, yet.

     

    Long lines to get firewood, gasoline, and Whataburger on the tv news.  Plus vids of broken sprinkler systems in some newer aparatments in the Dallas area.  Many "displeased" citizens.  The weather and the 133 vehicle pile-up wreck in Fort Worth last week will be some interesting testimony before the state legislature (currently in session).  Water treatment plants "off-line" in Fort Worth (news) and Abilene (from my cousin out there).  The Buc-ees gas station in Denton had to close due to power issues.

     

    The North Texas Jeep Club has been giving free rides to work for essential workers (i.e., medical and nurses) who can't stay "at work" or in a hotel, due to having kids and/or pets at home.  85 "warming shelters" have openned in DFW.  One Super 8 motel was allegedly charging $499.00/night in their online reservations.  "Event pricing"??  Many random acts of kindness have been reported, too.

     

    Thanks for thinking about us!

    NTX5467  

    • Like 2
  8. Unfortunately, for BCA judging purposes, "reasonable facsimile" or "intent" are not the same as "OEM production, end of the assembly line" correctness.  In a BCA-style show where OEM production correctness is "the standard for no points deducts" (other than possibly for condition), it's one thing.  In a non-BCA-style judged show event, the judges' orientations might be different.  Just depends upon "which game" you might desire to play.  Of course, with two sets of covers, you might play BOTH games, if desired.

     

    Regards,

    NTX5467 

  9. Perhaps some sort of auxilary, continuous-duty vacuum pump might be adapted rather than the electrification project?  Or a dua;-diaphram fuel pump which feeds a check-valved vacuum reservoir, which then attaches to the wiper motor?

     

    The kit from Julianos, who makes it?  Years ago, one of our late chapter members put a Newport Engineering kit on his '58 Century and was very pleased with how it installed and operated.  No mention of "sweep", though.

     

    NTX5467

  10. Does the particular accel pump unit have a solid shaft or is there a sleeve over a lower shaft, which the upper spring keeps extended?  The two-piece shaft would allow the pump to bottom-out and not restrict throttle linkage movement, at or near WOT.  If the pump bottoms out, then that upper spring would extend the sleeved shaft to its design length as the (direct-acting) throttle linkage moves back toward "idle".  If there is a spring under the accel pump, I suspect it would be short and not very strong.  Plus very possibly having a groove it can sit in and be compressed into.  While not bothering the accel pump as it worked.

     

    Might there be an illustration in the Hometown Buick website?

     

    Just some thoughts,

    NTX5467

    • Like 1
  11. LOL!  A 1100623 for sale on eBay at this time.  About $175.00 (claimed to be "show quality")

    1963 Buick 1100623  42amp

     

    Many pictures of the "for sale" item, too.  Google assisted this search!

     

    Only thing is that the stamps on that eBay item are more in line with what I'm used to seeing, rather than on your item.  BTAIM

     

    Enjoy!

    NTX5467

  12. Thanks.  

     

    1109623 >> 1107382 = starter

     

    '65 Rivieras used 11007__ alternators.  

     

    Date Code 2J24 = last digit of year / _  = Month / Day of Month . . . from a similar date code request in a Corvette forum.  Not sure if "J" is for January or July?

     

    Any amperage rating stamps?  As "42A", or similar?

     

    NTX5467

  13. I can understand some syspension calibration changes (including wheel/tire choices), but not the basic suspension design itself.  I can see some posible issues with seat belt/safety restraint issues/bumper issues, plus infotainment issues (radio frequencies and bands).  Even the rh vs lh drive situations? 

     

    But to look at the cars sitting side by side, "badge engineering" would be evident, to me.  Everything else for the particular market would be "bolt-on", typically.  Especially as GM's design orientation was to have ONE vehicle go many places with few changes relating to the vehicle's basic design/structure.  A structure that would comply with all safety regulations for the countries/regions where it could be sold new.

     

    This was a grand plan that seemed to be modified, as the Camaro and others allegedly came in "too bulky", resulting in less-than-desired performance/fuel economy ratings when compared to the (USA) competition (meaning Mustang).  The later plan modified this a bit to put a little more market-related differentiation into the mix, up front.  Kind of getting back to where one basic structure was designed, but for specific markets, additional items could be added as needed.

     

    For example, the Gen III Camaro body knew whether it would be a 4 cyl, V-6, or V-8 when it went through the plant's body shop, whereas the prior Gen II cars were "one car" with suspension items defined it as "normal", "F41", or Z/28" after the body was built.

     

    There were lots of changes made to the Holden Monaro GT to make it into a USA "GTO", several realted to crash safety regulations in the USA.  Which included the first year's cars not being able to have hood scoops.

     

    Over the past decades, I've observed as GM has swung back and forth between "purpose-built/designed" and "general design" orientations.  BOTH orientations which can be related to saving the corporation money, when the changes are advocated for.

     

    Regards,

    NTX5467

  14. Later, more recent re-badging was when the Buick Cascada convertible was also a Vauxhall and Opel, built in Poland.  A European-built car that was co-opted for more plant production and model viability.  Only the emblems were changed  . . .

     

    The Chevy Cruze first appeared in Oz, as a Holden Cruze, a few years before it came to the USA as a Chevrolet.

     

    The Chevy SS and Pontiac G8 vehicles were of Holden origin, also.  Can't forget the last-gen Pontiac GTO as a re-badged Holden Monaro vehicle, especially for the first couple of model years.  In these cases, though, as with the Cadillac Catera (Opel), they were American-ized in content and orientation.  The re-born Camaro was of Holden heritage also, but re-engineered for the North American market, more than the other ones seemed to be.  Without many of the service problems the Pontiac G8s tended to have.

     

    FWIW,

    NTX5467

  15. I would like to have something like that too, but it'd probably be priced out of my price range, unfortunately.  On the other hand, it could easily become the aspirational car that Thunderbirds were from 1958 well into the 1960s, as well as the first Rivieras in that era, too.  IF we were running GM, it never would have gone bankrupt, I suspect.

     

    NTX5467

    • Like 1
  16. As I recall, most new brush holders have a plastic dowel inserted to keep the brushes retracted until they are installed.  Then "pull it out" and you're ready to go.  Otherwise, you can manually push the brushes back into their holder, insert a "paper clip" to hold them in place (retracted) for safe keeping until they are ready to be reinstalled (IF they are worth re-installing).

     

    NTX5467

    • Thanks 1
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