NTX5467
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Posts posted by NTX5467
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The point systems were fine as long as they were not subject to shaft bushing wear and the rubbing block is not worn. If you can't set the gap to be within dwell degree specs, it might be worth considering the electronic setup.<P>If you keep the points, remember to get some point grease (remember that?) to put on the rubbing interface of the point rubbing block and the contact cam it rubs on. The last points I bought did not have the little vial of grease, but it can still be had from Mallory (last I bought) and I believe it is still in the GM Standard Parts catalog (but might require multi-tube minimum order quantities -- life time supply). <P>Without the necessary lubricant, the rubbing block on the points will wear prematurely and require readjustment too soon. If there's an oil cup sticking out of the side of the distributor housing, a few drops of oil might also be in order.<P>Much of the joy of having a finely tuned vehicle have been taken away from us by electronics over the years. Especially if you took pride in your job of doing the tuning just "so-so" on your pride and joy. One piece of electronics leads to another and another, plus a cell phone with a fully charged battery.<P>Enjoy!
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The 7.5" GM rear axle might have 10 rear cover bolts, but it not the same as the other GM axle normally called a "10 bolt" which has the 8.5" ring gear diameter. The 8.5" 10 bolt has a completely round rear cover and gasket. The 7.5" axle has a rear cover and gasket that are not completely round (more oval) plus totally different architecture where the brakes mount on the axle housing ends.<P>The 7.5" axle was originally under 4cyl and 6cyl Chevy Novas (the original ones in the 70s) and a different housing version came out with the 78 Malibus (and similar), the 82 Camaro/Firebird, and 82 S-10s. It was not really designed to be a high horsepower item considering its original uses.<P>The 8.5" axle is the classic GM 10-bolt axle. Also remember that Buick and Olds had their own axles in many cases in the 60s and 70s that did not cross over into the other carlines, but would fit under similar body series vehicles (i.e., Malibus, Cutlass, LeMans) as the frames and rear suspension mounting points were usually the same. Many GM 1/2 ton pickups also came with a version of the 8.5" 10-bolt rear axle from the 1970s on up to more current times. <P>As far as ratios, similar ratios were available for each ring gear diameter axle. Typically from low "2"s up to 3.73 and maybe 4.10 in a few applications over the years.<P>Hope this clarifies the situation somewhat.
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I hadn't thought about using GPS for speedometer checks, but it might work pretty well. Consider that the whole GPS thing was a US military situation to locate our troops without using radio transmissions and supposedly have an accuracy of 25ft. I understand the civilian version's tolerance is a little greater (50-100 feet maybe).<P>The less expensive handheld GPS units are typically sold in hunting stores or stores that sell hunting equipment/items. Some do have the "where I've been map".<P>The GPS units which have driving instructions are somewhat more expensive and typically have dedicated vehicle installations. These instructions will have detailed distances between turns, etc. The same driving instructions and distance information can be found on many of the map sites on the web which have driving instructions as part of the site.<P>Another way to check for speed and distance is the G-Analyst item that uses accelerometer information and an internal clock to compute time and speed items. It is typically used in autocrossing to measure lateral G forces in cornering and other driving activities. It's price is still under about $200.00 and would have more vehicular uses if you don't go out in the wilds hunting or camping.<P>Enjoy!
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As I recall, the basic architecture for the THM400 is the same, just the converter and front pump must match--switch pitch converter and switch pitch front pump, for example. The electrics to make the switch pitch items work can be wired extra and toggle switched instead of using the factory carb linkage switches--one for kickdown at WOT (normal THM400 item) and one to detect idle and WOT (times when the pitch switched to the higher ratio) as the vehicles came from the factory with. The wiring junction on the side of the case might need to be 2 wires instead of one wire as in the normal THM400.<P>The switch pitch item was neat. It let the converter be looser at idle (less creep) and when additional performance was needed (WOT) plus be tight for low performance/cruise situations. It was an easy upgrade for Pontiacs and other non-Buicks or non-Oldsmobiles with THM400s.<P>Enjoy!
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There is a pretty nice resource that is probably just down the road--your local Buick (or GM dealer with a multi-line parts computer database). In the parts group for the body moldings and emblems, there are graphic illustrations of the various emblems, moldings, and name plates on the vehicle. Plus the necessary hardware/fastners to attach them if they are not adhesive backed items.<P>The molding group will cover the body shell behind the front fenders and the front end sheet metal illustrations (and maybe the grille illustration in group 1.000) should cover the remainder of the front end section. These illustrations are to scale and might also have "views" of particular items on the vehicle. <P>Hopefully, the parts person can get you a print of the illustrations or you can email me and I will see what I can get for you.<P>Sales literaturs might be a good general source of information on this, but they were printed many months prior to the start of production so might have a few indiscretions.<P>Enjoy!
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The cold start problem could be from the automatic choke not closing correctly and pulling the related fast idle cam upward to increase the idle speed on a cold engine.<P>I have a 70 Skylark Custom 2dr with the 350-2bbl. It starts quick, idles and runs smooth all the time, and does all of those other great Buick things in the low and middle rpm ranges. Definitely better than the comparable Chevrolet 350. <P>I would suspect the idle speed and related problems are due to something inside the carb calibration passages not being correct or plugged. Might even be a plugged pcv valve. If the carb isn't trashed, I'd do a good rebuild as you never know what the auto supply generic rebuilt carbs have in them.<P>When everything is right, that 350 Buick will surprise you -- even with the seemingly small 2bbl.
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I might suggest you check your odometer calibration first as that is run directly from the speedometer cable from the speedometer gears in the transmission. You can get an idea about that from the mile markers on the interstate--I usually like to do a 10 mile run on reasonably level terrain. Using the 10 mile distance makes the math easier to figure as % + or -.<P>You can also time your 60 mph time (60mph= 60 secs/mile) to check for similar correlation to the odometer reading.<P>The speedometer needle is run by a moving magnet inside of the speed cup. A mainspring similar to that in a watch is the spring pressure the magnet must overcome to move the needle. A speedometer shop can add or remove strength from the magnet to vary the speed reading at will and independent of the odometer reading. They or a transmission shop can help you with getting the correct gears in the transmission to drive the speedometer cable and make the odometer reading correct. <P>Providing the spring on the speedometer needle has not weakened with age, when the odometer reading is accurate, the speed reading should similarly be within factory specs again.<P>
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If you go to a dealer to order the 2001 Ultra struts and you tell the parts person they will be for a 1997, probably the first thing you will be told is that they will not fit as the part number is different. If you persist and they call ParTech to ask if they will interchange, ParTech will (as they have obviously been trained to do) say they will not fit as the part number is different and possibly (as they have told me a few times) that they are not in the business of modifying vehicles. Therefore, if the part number is different there is a reason and it is not a valid replacement without a part number replacement change.<P>If the parts person does some other checking, like I did, they will find some differences, but on the same architecture suspension. Which means there might be some interchange possibilities.<P>If the service manager checks with their Tech Assistance center, they might get a better idea -- an "authorized" idea -- of if it will work or might know if someone has tried it in the field previously. This could take a few days as they do their checking.<P>Either way, it can be a trying experience to deal with the dealership/factory people on such an upgrade. An upgrade which would outwardly seem an easy one just as we used to upgrade to heavy duty shocks from the weaker standard ones.<P>They probably have to take this stance for several reasons. The representatives at ParTech might not have particular knowledge of the vehicle and its architecture so, for liability reasons, they probably have been instructed to respond as I mentioned previously. Plus, engineering designed the vehicle and they would have to approve any changes for the application (which ParTech representatives are not authorized to do or advocate).<P>Hopefully you found a parts person willing to work with you on this issue and research it for you so you are happy and they make some money in the deal too. Hopefully, the newer calibration struts will do what you want. Don't forget that you will need a complete 4-wheel wheel alignment after the struts are changed.<P>Enjoy!
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When I got to work (at the GM parts dept tonight) I started researching the parts interchanges on the struts. First thing is that 97 is by itself on the front struts and upper strut mount. 98-99 and later struts are different numbers and use the 98+ upper strut mount. In 97, the lower control arms were specific to the suspension package, but the later years are "only one", so that means the mounting/pivot bushings are harder on the F41 suspension.<P>On later years, there is only one strut listed for each year. That means, the differences will be in the springs (stiffer), sway bars (larger and stiffer), and the more performance oriented tires.<P>Basically, the front struts are 97, 98-99, 00-01 in their part listings. The rears are, as I recall 97-99, 00-01. The rears are similarly "only one" for both suspensions.<P>On the issue of upgrading to a later year, it first looks like the upper strut mount might need to be upgraded also. The front knuckles are probably all the same (although with some different part numbers which might be the result of other yearly alterations) so a pre-assembly inspection of the 2000+ strut with the existing one might be in order.<P>As an aside, unless if you compare your car to a 99 and earlier LeSabre, you will find out the PA is really quite firm in comparison! On that H-platform, we put Bonneville SSEi struts on to cure that as the Pontiacs were tighter valved.<P>On the aftermarket area, I suspect the only real aftermarket choices will be Gabriel with VST valving or Monroe with their latest inertia-pin valve set up.<P>Currently, ordering struts/shocks (car) from the dealer will get AC-Delco co-branded items with the GM part number and the AC-Delco part number and nomenclature (Reactek).<P>The C-body platform struts you have are also used (same part numbers) on similar Rivieras and Auroras. I wish you luck and would like to know how it turns out and under what conditions you were having the problem and how much the new struts affected it.<P>Thanks<BR>NTX5467@cs.com
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I remember the recipe of a 50-50 mix of water and atf poured through the carb at the rpm range mentioned. Was supposed to do the same thing and smoked things up pretty good.<P>GM Accessories and other additive manufacturers (i.e., Shaler Rislone) had pour through additives. With some, you killed the motor at the end of the can amd let the vehicle sit overnight. The softened deposite were supposed to burn out when it was run the next time.<P>Some people used to put a gallon of diesel in their tank when they filled up to leave on a trip. Supposed to do the same thing.<P>It always seems like that after a long, sustained interstate highwy trip of about 200-300 miles, the vehicles run better just from the sustained combustion heat and moderate load. Just my observation with several vehicles<P>Almost any modern fuel cleaner additive (if they say they clean the combustion chamber) will now do the same thing with less fuss. It might take two treatments, though, and then you might want a fresh oil change.<P>Just for good measure, you might make sure the air filter is not dirty and the choke is at its leanest setting and is not sluggish in operation.<P>There are probably as many shade tree fixes for this situation as there are cars.<P>Enjoy!
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In the past, the Roster has been a valuable research tool (members, vehicle information, other club information) for many and can continue to be so in the future. The Roster also contains a very important message in it regarding the uses of the member information therein--only for car club purposes only and nothing else (i.e., commercial ventures).<P>I concur that the informatin could well be placed on the BCA website, but maintaining the necessary security so that only BCA members have access to it is a hurdle that would have to be overcome with passwords or other security measures. Such security measures would continue the present orientation that only BCA members have access to the information.<P>While many of the younger members (in this case, younger is relative) are probably not internet-challenged, I suspect there are still plenty that are. Perhaps the Roster and other information contained in the previous versions could be available on CD or floppy upon request just as the paper versions could be reproduced upon request. That way, the members who need a hard copy could have one and the others who are computered can have one also for their electronic media. New members would have their choice when they join initially. Hopefully, that would decrease costs and maintain the present security of the member information also.<P>I have received my "new" BUGLE and did see a few typos in it. I also found a March, 1990 BUGLE I had in my archives--48 pages of 8.5"x7" paper stock. It had basically the same formats and information as the most recent "old" BUGLES of the 8.5"x11" size. The membership fee was $22.00 back then.<P>I hope the new Editor and Publisher can take things to the next level from the past plateau. I also suspect it will be a more streamlined operation now than in the past.<P>I suggest we give the new group several months to get up to speed. Yes, their experience might not be Buick-specific, but it is still, as I understand, GM related. This is where it becomes necessary for the membership to submit articles for publication. Technical articles and articles of our memories of and experiences with Buicks over the years. <P>Perhaps the Editor could request articles on various subjects and let members respond with their articles? I feel that one of the best ways to appreciate our Buicks is to read of the experiences and adventures of others with their Buicks and have a beneficial sharing of information.<P>Just some thoughts and comments.<P>Enjoy!
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The two letter code you speak of refers to the style of the rim lip or bead area--height, shape, etc. I recall that there are several variations with different letter codes for them. These codes are totally independent of the rim diameter or width.<P>Enjoy!
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All Dexron fluid is backward compatible with all GM transmissions back to the first HydraMatic circa 1949 (according to GM). The current variation is Dexron III and is the only one available currently. Brand pref is up to you, but I'd stay with a name brand of quality lubricants.<P>The flushing procedure which seems to be popular now is attaching some fluid lines (at the cooler fittings on the radiator) and replacing the old fluid with fresh fluid as it flows through the cooler circuit. The old fluid is intercepted and replaced by new fluid on the return side. It does not replace the older filter and fluid change, though. <P>The operator of the flush machine must monitor it carefully so there is not a fluid deficit during the procedure of putting the new fluid in. Many dealers now offer this service as do many "quick lube" chain locations.
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Many of the bases were covered by MARTINSR's comments. There are probably more interchangeable parts than the reproduction people know about. To check for genuine GM interchanges, you need to locate a "crash book" parts catalog from Chilton or Motor for the year range you have and just check the numbers between Buicks and the other similar GM cars. It will take a while, but will be the definitive method of determining what is the same.<P>The Hollander Manuals are good, but many times list parts of the "will fit" nature which might take some slight mods to make work. Nothing wrong with that, just depends on how much authenticity you are looking for.<P>In relation to "patch panels", there are probably just a few real manufacturers who make the stuff and let everyone else sell it. Sherman and Associates tend to have a good track record and Goodmark Industries does repro sheet metal plus GM Restoration Parts.<P>In reality, there probably are many floor pan sections that might interchange between the various GM A-bodies of a given model range. The trunk pans will probably be different due to the way the bodies were shaped back there and the vehicle lengths. The front floor sections might all be so similar a Chevy section would fit a Buick or Pontiac but the rear and underseat sections would be more specific to the wheelbase.<P>One key might be to find someone who's been there and see what their experiences were. The vendor sales people typically are not that knowledgeable on interchanges unless their engineers say it is so, and that is sometimes suspect too.<P>There definitely are some mix and match possibilities if you know what you are doing.
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The desired tire size has nothing to do with snow capabilities or brand, but the physical size (i.e., sidewall width) of the tires in question.<P>The production sizes for the 70 Skylark could have ranged from an F78-14 on the less optioned vehicles to the now extinct H78-14 for some of the wagons. The previous sizes for these were F78-14 = 7.75-14, G78-14 = 8.25-14, H78-14 = 8.55-14.<P>Converting those into the first generation of radial sizes come up with F78-14 = 195R-14, G78-14 = 205R-14, H78-14 = 215R-14. In the current P-metric sizing, that equates to P205/75R-14, P215/75R-14, and P225/75R-14. If you decrease the aspect ratio from "75" to "70", then add "10" to the size number (i.e., P215/70R-14, P225/70R-14, P235/70R-14, respectively).<P>The key item is to remember that whatever tire you get should be of the same approximate diameter as what is on there now or what came on it when new. That will keep the ground clearance and speedometer accuracy issues under control.<P>Almost all of the current premium radial tires are of M+S ratings (with varying types of tread designs) so you just have to decide on the brand once you have the size under control. Check the Tire Rack's magazine ads or online listings for prices and other sources also.<P>I also have a 70 Skylark Custom V-8 with the factory 14" steel wheels. I plan on putting some factory 15x7 chrome wheels on it mainly for the flexibility of buying tires for it as the 14" sizes like we need seem to be decreasing each year. When I do that, the size will be either P215R/75-15 or P225/70R-15 in either whitewall or "Bill Board" white letters. <P>I don't have to have the widest wheels and tires under it, just something that works and looks "normal" to me without going overboard. If you have a rompin' stomping torque monster under the hood, it's one thing, but a somewhat normal 350 V-8 is another thing. If I was doing a GS clone, it would probably need the correct sized tires under it to go with the wheels, but I'm not and I don't suspect the original poster is either. To each his own.
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The "Prestige Package", also known as option code "1SE" on the option list, should be the highest option package available. The content was typically pretty consistent from year to year.<P>In my 1998 price guide (not GM), it lists 1SE as being the base Park Avenue Ultra equip package. The Ultra was designed to be the "ultimate" Buick and was typically fully optioned as produced with very few options and upgrades available.<P>A regular Park Avenue had the 1SE package as as an optional upgrade from it's base 1SD "Luxury Package" but the normal Park Avenue could not have the supercharged motor which was available only on the Ultra.<P>If you can find a Dealer Order Guide for 1993 Buicks, it will nail down specifically what the option codes (1SD and 1SE) include for that year.
What does JJ on wheel mean?
in Buick - General
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Thanks for verifying my previous post Bob. I could not find my archive information on that subject, but knew I saw it back in the 1960s.<P>There are some other stamp codes on GM wheels which can relate to other aspects of the wheel other than rim diameter and width. These stamps are typically near the valve stem hole (steel wheels) or on the reverse side (aluminum wheels). Typically, these stamp codes are three letters ("RAL" is one that comes to mind for a late model Chevy light truck wheel) and will need a GM parts book to determine the what the wheel came on.<P>For example, two "identical" wheels with different stamp codes might also relate the vendor who built them for GM--not to mention how the wheel is shaped on the inner side to clear things (such as disc brakes instead of drum brakes), if the wheels are "directional", plus the other items I will mention below.<P>I understand, for example, that there are different stamp codes for the 15" Riviera chrome wheels (1960s-70s) as opposed to the similar looking wheels which came on other Buicks of those and later years. I believe these intracies were detailed in an ROA club magazine article on such.<P>These codes can also relate to offset due to their particular vehicle applications. For example, the "common" Chevy 15x7 Rally wheel has two variations that I know of--one for Malibus/Monte Carlos of the late 60s and early 70s and one for Corvettes. In that case, the wheel offset is the significant difference as they otherwise look the same until you put them side by side. The Corvette wheel is basically "O offset" while the other variation is the "normal rear wheel drive" Chevrolet offset.<P>These additional codes might be more information than you might have wanted, but it can make a difference in how the wheel works on the vehicle not to mention concours judging situations. There might also be some date code stampings which might also be significant in some judging situations.<P>Enjoy!