NTX5467
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Posts posted by NTX5467
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If it is an electronic-controlled transaxle, there could be a pressure switch on the valve body that is not working. Usually, each "gear" ahs a pressure switch to shift into the next gear. Need to see a competent transmission shop for such things as "some disassembly required" for that repair. Plus a new fluid and filter.
If it is a non-electronic shift transaxle, then it could be a governor and/or valve body issue. Again, "some disassembly required" by a competent transmission shop.
Regards,
NTX5467
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Although they were all 3.8L displacement, there were several generations AND some generations where they were pretty much a completely different motor with about the only parts interchanges were motor oil and gasoline. All "3800s" were balance shaft motors.
NTX5467
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IF you can remove the door trim panel, you can get already-keyed cylinder pairs from RockAuto or similar for about $15.00, which is much less expensive than a locksmith will do the deal, by a long shot.
On the glove box door, in that cyl, there should be only about 1/2 the number of tumblers in that cyl. So using that as an easier to get to cyl to cut the key only gets you half way there. But it can verify which letter-code key blank to use.
I suspect you are using the keyless entry remove to lock and unlock the doors?
Just some thoughts,
NTX5467
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@Smartin, thanks for your consideration and work on this subject. Thanks, also, to all who contributed to the final outcome. My observation is that y'all have done well.
Willis Bell 20811
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Looks pretty good, @Smartin. Might there be some way to reward those who kept the Nailhead rather than using a different GM motor? Just a thought, which might celebrate "Buick" more than "GM".
Take care,
Willis Bell 20811
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12 hours ago, XframeFX said:
Carburetor Exchange and Carburetor Center are now one and the same in the LA area?
Carburetor Exchange quoted an in-stock 1966 Q-Jet, a 7041309 I think for <$500 a few years back. Last August, "DowndraftDan" at Carburetor Center quoted $950 +$500 for a Core I do not have. So, $1450! That amount will take me well into an FI swap.
I know that carb kit prices have increased a bit, depending upon the source and quality thereof. I can understand an increase in labor rates, to an extent. I can understand environmental issues with cleaning fluids. For THIS price, I would expect above perfection. Even a full re-cast with all design issues fixed and finessed beyond perfection. Even a stainless steel sleeved power valve bore and thick secondary air valve cam! Neither of which are mentioned!
QJets have always been more expensive to rebuild than an AFB, but that price can get close to TWO NEW AFBs. Wonder what he pays his employees, to justify those prices?
NTX5467
NTX5467
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9 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:
Is this something to do with the fuel evaporating from the float bowl? Or to do with today's ethanol blended gas? Would the car have had this problem when new?
That hot soak re-start issue would have depended on where it happened. Phoenix in the summer, probably. Phoenix in the winter, probably not. Even with the gas the car was designed for, when it was a "used car" or over 1 year old. Pumping the accel pedal just put fuel into the intake manifold, not "gas to the carbs".
NTX5467
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"Barefoot polishing"?? (Gasp!!) No flip-flops which are "garage only"?
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Admiring the great lines is one reason you wax the car a lot in the off-season. Feeling the magnificance as you also look for spots missed or which need more work. Static artwork. Inside and out.
NTX5467
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Actually, my initial thought was that the "all the way to the floor" had to do with Buick's typical starting system, more than anything else. As a way to decrease the load on the starter to turn the engine with the throttle plates wide open. With their "high-tech" mechanism to replace the more basic "starter pedal by the foot-feed" situation, like on our '51 GM pickup truck.
I don't know that I've ever met Mrs. 60FlatTop, but she must be an outstanding lady.
Enjoy,
NTX5467
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My observation is that criteria for participating in the Driven Class have changed from the initial 1999 proposal several times. I understand that those worried about such things do not want a "modern car" being a part of this class, but now even a 25 year old car can be termed "modern car" in their way of looking at things. In other words, if somebody might drive a 1940s car to the meet, at moderate discomfort, these people want ALL participants in the Driven Class to have similar discomforts as they did.
All of which tends to make it look like those who are now formulating the criteria for the Driven Class might be advocating a variable orientation, over the years, rather than something consistent and well-considered. To me, the Driven Class can encompass ANY Buidk which is not desired to be judged, but still mostly "as produced" with the intent to maintain it as an "as produced vehicle".
To me, the Modified Class should attract vehicles with modifications, which initially was more toward customized body changes, it seemed. Some great customized Buicks have existed, over time, for ages, which were far outside of the realm of the 400 Point system. When this class was first proposed, the vast bulk of Buicks with engine modifications and such were in the realm of the "GS Club" operatives and not the "General Buick Owner", by observation. The GS-oriented people were already in the national GS Club and had no intention of joining the BCA and its 400 Point judging system, by observation. In some cases, the two groups had cross-over members, but I observed this to not be universally true.
If I was going to design a judging system expansion . . . I would leave the existing 400 Point system and Archival class exactly as they now are.
The Modified I class would be divided into several orientations, by "intent" of the owner. One section would be the Body Modified section, where the bulk of the modifications were related to body customizing, with some improved underhood cosmetics and possibly ride height modifications. My observations have been that those who desire such modifications, do not always desire to make other chassis or engine changes of equipment. ALL Buick-powered or with an engine which could have been period-correct for a Buick. Unfortunately, "LS Swaps" would not be allowed, but NorthStar swaps would.
A Modified II Class would be "Fast with Class", which would be for owners who desired to make many of the "Day Two" changes mentioned, which would be related to increasing road performance for competitive events. Related to engine performance and handling performance, mainly. Ride height modifications can exist here, too. This is also where enhanced GS cars could be judged.
The Modified III class could also include "Clones", "Tributes", or well-executed "Buick should have built this car this way" vehicles. Which would include G or B-body "El Camino" type vehicles, station wagons with GS drivetrains and ornamentation,
A Modified II-R Class would be for pure race Buicks. Drag racing and or road racing. "Street Legal" use would be marginal for some. These vehicles would be known by their Sanctioning Body Required roll cages, with race seats, easily-reachable fire extinguishers, and/or a visible external "On-Off Switch". Including a race-oriented power train and suspension items.
The original orientation of the Driven Class was that it would be a Buick driven the complete distance to the national meet. Specifically excluding "trailer queens". This class might be considered something of a "Car Corral" class, as it would be all-inclusive of any other vehicle which was not desired to be judged or would fit into a specified criteria. Which could include vehicles which had been prior 400 Point cars which the owner now desired to "drive and enjoy" rather than show, although still keeping them "nice". It could ALSO include Pre-400 Point Vehicles, too! Those that might be "in process restorations", but still drivable and enjoyed for their Buick traits.
Some might disagree, but I would ALSO include "non-Antique" Buicks, no matter how new, in the Driven Class. I feel we need to embrace THOSE owners, too! Let them feel like a new "Part of the Family". If they don't have an older Buick, perhaps they might "get the bug" for one"? Some might discover that their well-maintained/preserved Buick might be capable of entering the 400 Point judging, more than they suspected it might be easier than they suspected. In any event, letting them enjoy driving their Buick to "See the USA".
In conclusion, I fully realize how much larger this could make a BCA National Meet bigger in scope and operations. How the various awards presentations were handled, together or separately, would need some consideration, too. A KEY orientation would be that anybody who drives any Buick to a BCA National Meet would have a place to show it, if they desired to do so. A place to park it amongst their peers, if desired, no matter the model year.
I also fully realize that having more participants in the National Meet show field parking can also put more criteria on where the National Meets are held. Both in physical venues and geographic locations. Which might tend to move them away from host hotel areas into areas which might require "driving to" to get to. Which could mean additional security measures would be needed, plus some other side issues to deal with.
In prior decades, the use of technology to speed judging activities has been discussed and considered. Perhaps it's time to put more of those things into play? Even if it might be "short-term leased"? Perhaps our Office Managers might have some input here, considering their involvements with other vehicle groups?
Also in prior decades, One of my observations has been the "general non-inclusiveness" of BCA National Meets. The "12 Year Rule" automatically excluded the Riviera and GS enthusiasts, from the introduction of their cars, right up front, which then motivated them to form their own groups, way back when. As they might wait for their cars to get old enough to participate in BCA show events. For an organization which professed to embrace "all things Buick", this did not seem to fit. Many did not want to see "new Buicks" being judged against their older, restored/maintained Buicks, which I understand. I also understand that a new vehicle, back then, was not a "perfect vehicle", too. In one respect, you paid $$$$ to get a new vehicle, then spend time detailing and spiffing it, or you paid the same money to re-do an older car to the same level of execution. Same money spent, same ultimate vehicular result, in theory.
II also kept hearing the word "antique" as describing the BCA, which indicated a particular mindset or orientation. Yet, when I specifically looked for the "antique" word in BCA documents, I did not find it anywhere. Where did that orientation come from as I have heard it used many times over the years? Is it an unspoken orientation that has influenced BCA operations for years? If the BCA is considered to be "An Antique Car Club", that could well be the reason for declining membership and few younger members?
Just some thoughts and things to ponder,
NTX5467
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Last time I knew about those kits, they were $15.00 or so. Been a while . . .
Never had any issues with the stock stuff in my '67 Chrysler 383, with the stock AFB. BTAIM That carb did not have the secondary air valve, just nothing in the secondaries other than the throttle valves. After I finessed the casting flash on the venturis and made sure everything was assembled "dead on", on an off-idle WOT throttle input, I could then feel a slight bog until the rpm got up a bit, proving my work was worthwhile. First time I saw inside of an AFB, I wondered where all of the extra parts were, compared to a Holley 4bbl.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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On vehicles with normal starting techniques, "all the way to the floor" can be changed to "1/2 way down" and work equally as well for letting the automatic choke do its thing. In some cases, even 1/3 the way down will work well.
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Back then, it would have been more of a sin to damage a good Case knife.
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Carburetors never were painted, they normally had a light cad coating for surface preservation. Not looks. That cad coating would evaporate or be taken off by some carb cleaners. I'll take a flaky-looking carb that works well over one that looks great but does not work as it should, personally.
One of my orientations is to "learn the machinery and what it likes", then make sure to use it in that manner for best mutually-beneficial results. NOT expect the machinery to do everything I might desire, flawlessly. I figured that out ages ago. If the machinery might be ill-suited for your use, find something else that might work better for you. Don't expect miracles.
KEY thing can be learning to tweak rather than cuss. Unfortunately, some might not be qualified to "tweak", so the alternative can come easily, by observation.
Sometimes we have elevated expectations, too. When GM put TBI on the 454 engines, which was a 2bbl system of about 500cfm, many liked the way it drove, but "lacked top end power". Like when they expected the 4bbl to kick-in (for that last 25% of throttle), but there was no sound or feel or additional power. GM put out a TSB which stated that the last 25% of throttle only resulted in a 10% increase in air flow.
EFI can produce better fuel economy, fewer emissions, better drivability, and ease of operation, typically, in many applications. Moreso if the prior carburetor was not as it should have been, lesser if the orig carb was well-matched to the application.
Personally, I'm not a fan of the QJet carb. Reason? Why should it take a hammer and punch to initiate getting the air horn off the carburetor? Bad design, to me, but I do acknowledge that is a good carburetor made better with the triple-booster primary venturis. I like the Holley 4175s better as I am used to dealing with Holleys. On the 4175 on my '77 Camaro V-8, i tweaked the elec choke adjustment to get the choke off as soon as possible in cold weather. The NGK V-power plugs helped it through the earlier parts of warm-up. IF it starts to act like it wants to die, just a small pat of the accel pedal gets enough accel pump shot to keep things going and backed-out of the driveway. One block to a Yield sign, full stop at the end of the 2nd block and it's at slow idle. Thinking and knowing to "catch it" before it dies is important, but most would let it die and cuss. Tweak to get the best adjustment and THEN let it do its job.
Pre-EFI, it seemed more people know how to "drive" carburetors. Worse now.
We know that carb soak cleaners will not remove hard deposits in the fuel circuits or air bleed circuits of carburetors. A GOOD carb rebuilder recognized this, or should. IF a problem persists after a clean rebuild with quality parts, THEN research begins. I know this first-hand as I rebuilt a Carter BBD on one of my cars, which did not fix the issue I was experiencing. It took quite a bit of research to discover what a "Low Speed Jet" was and where it was. After that, it was easy to get it back to its original size. If I had not been doing this myself, I might have sold the car or spent lots of money to have a clean carburetor. For me, this was an expanded learning experience as there were few options available in different carburetors to fit that engine. Once done, no real need for anything else, other than a 4bbl and intake.
I DO have one of the earlier Holley 2bbl TBI kits, which is universal in nature, with "build-it-yourself" wiring harnesses and instructions. It has a simple computer, but WOT must be manually fine-tuned. Still in the box. It can be "For Sale" less expensive than the later self-learning systems!
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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As to EFI vendors, Holley has several systems to consider. Some with more benefits than others. Getting one of their newest systems can be important, for many reasons. Edelbrock has some EFI systems, too. BOTH entities are now owned by large investor groups, as each has their own group of formerly-separate performance industry brands.
The Holley website has lots of videos on their systems and how to fix them. In either case, I doubt either will be leaving the automotive aftermarket in the next decade or so.
Ben started out with Affordable EFI, which I had never heard of, but is one of the growing number of EFI vendors.
Other than the cost of the EFI system, a new ignition distributor is also needed to give the EFI computer the needed ignition signal for things to work. Figure another amount of money on top of the basic EFI kit.
RFI (radio frequency interference) can be an issue with EFI. Shielding from such might be necessary. One issue with the early Bendix Electrojector systems was the RFI from mercury-vapor street lights, so i understand.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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Point to remember . . . a carburetor, like a throttle-body EFI, is nothing more than a "fuel mixer". Which is why a throttle body EFI shows no more power on a dyno run.
The system that Ben started with was based on the mid-1980s GM ECM system for throttle body injection. It used reman or new GM-designed parts, which could be sourced from an auto supply. They burned a chip to match his application. Newer versions, which I believe he has, can also control ignition timing for a complete engine management system. BTAIM One of the advances Ben experienced was increased fuel economy on trips. Still, a 2-3mpg possible will not financially-justify the expenditure, by observations.
What CAN justify the expenditure is increased drivability of the vehicle, no matter the altitude or ambient temperature.
I conversed with a person on the BCA forums about an EFI system he had installed on a '68 Electra 430. Went from 19mph highway to 8 in one feld swoop. Must have been a programming issue related to the cam specs? Since that time programming parameters have been upgraded and enhanced. Never did find out if the mpg improved with tuning inputs or increased run time.
In general, a factory Rochester carburetor is one of the most bulletproof carburetors which ever existed. Solid performance as long as it is generally unmolested. Usually easy and simple to work on, if needed. Might not be exactly high-tech cutting edge, but still good.
ONE reason that EFI "drives better" than a carburetor is that a carburetor meters fuel "as air velocity through the venturis increases. An electronic FI system meters fuel when the throttle pedal (via TPS) moves at all. As soon as the throttle is opening, the computer is instructing the fuel injectors to immediately add more fuel to the fire. Rather than waiting for air speed in the venturis to increase. Which ALSO means that an unsteady throttle foot can quickly degrade fuel economy, big time.
Similarly, whenever the throttle input goes to "idle" or "zero", the system immediately takes fuel out of the mix, which can result in "instant fuel economy" of up to 99mph during coast-down times. Which can be another way to improve fuel economy. IF you have a modern vehicle with a Driver Info Center which reads-out "Instant MPG" or "Average MPG", you can learn how to drive them to get better fuel economy. Especially by "coasting" up to stpo signs rather than "driving" up to them and hitting the brakes. Similarly, brisk acceleration gets the vehicle up to speed quicker with less fuel consumption rather than "taking it easy", as we were told ages ago.
A finely-tuned carburetor can be great, provided "anybody" can drive the car and not get frustrated. Most of us learn the equipment and how to best manipulate if to do what we want it to. Which might take some different ways to operate it when cold, or otherwise. EFI has the benefit of not needing special care or procedures to make it work well, just as with factory EFI systems. "Crank and go".
For younger people, EFI is what they know about. A carburetor is "foreign" to them. THEY would be a big target market for EFI rather than older people who know how to work on and tweak carburetors, I suspect.
Hopefully, ANY money spent (or saved) by either option will be in the owner's best interest.
NTX5467
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As I recall, being at the 1999 General Membership meeting when the proposal for a Driven Class was presented, at the time, I felt it was a good deal for those that wanted to drive Buicks to the national meet, but not enter the 400 Point judging. I was under the impression that it would be "normal cars" rather than "Modified", although some considered that adding an alternator to replace a generator was "Modified". Or adding an add-on hang-down air conditioner was "Modified". Then came the BCA BOD's approval, with "conditions". I was not aware of the current status of the Driven Class, or how it has changed over the years of use, yet I see it as a way to have MORE Buicks participating in the national meet, for everybody's increased enjoyment and recognition.
What I also remember is hearing comments from BCA Members who had registered for the then-first year Driven Class at the BCA National Meet we hosted in Plano, TX, its first year of implementation. They were surprised at the "conditions" that the cars had to meet in order to be in the Driven Class. It was not as they suspected and they were not pleased. Since that first year, it appears that somebody has been responsive to "customer input" for the Driven Class. Yet a constantly-changing (seemingly) set of "rules" needs to be standardized and stabilized for best results.
ONE thing I foresaw for the Driven Class was that people who did not desire to maintain their 400 Point and archival achievements, could transition their cars into the Driven Class, if they might desire. Still enjoying the car they worked to restore/maintain rather than letting it sit home instead, or be sold. Even if they might desire radial tires, halogen headlights, or even some drivetrain enhancements to make the vehicle more safe and enjoyable to drive on trips and excursions. Yet not altered to the extent it would easily come under the umbrella of the Modified Class.
Hopefully, some common ground can be found where a flag can be planted and celebrated.
Willis Bell 20811
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Not sure if there was ever a "tow option" on those Rivieras, but a Gran Touring suspension was usually the upgrade suspension on many Buicks back then. Might have had a bit stiffer springs, but normal struts, with possibly different sway bars, and Goodyear Eagle GT white letter tires.
Would have been difficult to put a real trailer hitch on them due to the bumpers.
NTX5467
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Seems like there is a "blow-off" protector spring mechanism that blows-off pressure when the wheel is turned to the stops and held there? Might that spring weaken with heat (and time and age)?
Seems like that when the pump is under-capacity or the engine is not running fast enough, the steering wheel turns jerkily rather than smoother with more effort?
Just some thoughts,
NTX5467
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Just be sure to ask if they are compatible with the fluid in the system (atf or power steering fluid). Some might be, others might not be.
Take care,
NTX5467
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As to the plastic-covered emblem parts, you might check out some of the headlight housing refinishing techniques. One involved sanding (rough to smooth grits) and then using a plastic-rated clear paint over the housings. Basically, remove the oxidized material and then clear-coat the result. Not much money involved, but might work decently well.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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I found some YouTube videos on doing the re-coning process. Not really hard to do, just need the correct size paper items, which might be on eBay. OR check for a local re-coning service that takes care of "dance halls" which use DJs. I suspect that their sources might have access to smaller re-cone parts.
I will admit that impedance is still an elusive concept to me, from my high school physics days. Not like like normal resistance, it seems. It used to be that one of the best upgrades to a factory sound system was to use Jensen dual-cone speakers (remember them?), which were 8ohms rather than 10 ohms. The factory radios had no issues with them, by observation.
Any current aftermarket speaker will have a magnet AND wattage capacity which are bigger than needed for the factory amps. The larger magnets allegedly take more power to run than the miniature-by-comparison factory speaker magnets.
Check out "Friend Google" and see what y'all can come up with.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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For supercharger information, the fwd Pontiac Grand Prix people probably have more information on them than Buick operatives might. Seems like the front piece used to be available from NAPA, as the complete rebuilt superchargers used to be?
GM had a special "Supercharger Oil" that goes in the nose piece. Might still be around, too, but if you get it from a GM dealer that does not stock it, might have to buy 6 to get one. Check with your local dealer. IF they don't stock it, they can look on their locator to find a dealer that does. Then go into that dealer's website and order it. Prices can vary.
I put "1999 Pontiac Grand Prix Supercharger" in to Google and came up with lots of listings. Used units, including on eBay. Scrolling down farther came some actual businesses who sold parts! Then what might be (what I consider) a good hi=perf Buick 3800 V-6 website www.3800pros.com .
Same engine in the Grand Prix GTP as the Rivieras and fwd Regal GS used. There should be a Regal GS forum, which is good, too, but the GP operatives seemed to be more about hi-perf than others. www.RegalGS.org ?
Enjoy!
NTX5467
Oil pressure sender / gauge error | 1966 Riviera 425 Nailhead
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by NTX5467 (see edit history)
I suspect the sender might be a "will fit, looks like it will fit" rather than what it really needs. You might go into www.rockauto.com and input your vehicle information for a new sensor (what GM calls it) and see if any of the markings on the unit match the part numbers of the brands RA has in their product listings. Not an exact situation, but about the only thing I can think of except using a manual gauge to verify your readings. No banging should be the ultimate result.
In some cases, the part number is stamped on the hex where the threads are, or at least the max psi for the gauge calibration. Might need a mirror or use your phone to get a picture, carefully.
Just some thoughts,
NTX5467