NTX5467
-
Posts
9,774 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by NTX5467
-
-
Hagerty has recently started a program where you can pay to plant trees in order to offset vehicular emissions. Very inexpensive to do! Not unlike many funeral providers now have links to plant trees in some loved one's memory in a national forest. We need more trees!
As to the paper product at the grocery store, they need those trees to supply their industry.
FWIW,
NTX5467
-
In doing an easy intake manifold swap (which did not necessitate distributor removal or dealing with a coolant passage), I figured out it was taking me "one night after work for each flat rate hour in the repair manual"
Didn't have any issues with dropped bolts, but I had one factory bolt that would NOT thread into the hole it came out of, nor a simlar bolt either. But after trying to figure that out, I got a new bolt at work the next day. With NO other changes, the new bolt dropped right in and tightened up. Not believing that, I removed it and compared it to the OEM bolt. No differences other than engine paint on the OEM bolts. So I put the new bolt in with a flat washer under the head and it's still in there.
No "drinking" involved. Other than perhaps Coca-Cola or Dr. Pepper . . . or city tap water.
That time became my new standard of project length prediction. Going along with the time and money over-run orientations others had mentioned.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
-
1
-
4
-
-
Might expand it to . . . "Getting ready to mine the metal, or drill for oil to make the petrochemicals to build your part. Plus refine the diesel to transport these things to our production facility. Provided they do not arrive at break time, during a contract issue, or power outage." ALL of which might be a cover for "We just screwed up and didn't build enough three years ago! Who had those original blueprints last? They don't work here any more? They died?"
NTX5467
-
To me, part of Adam's credibility comes from the fact his grandfather worked for Chevy and Pontiac, AND made the acquaintance of Smokey. His father continued the legacy by having a machine shop, which Adam said he was working at 10 yrs old. Learning from his father and grandfather. So he's "third gen". He is in the Pacific Northwest, so no real reason to know of anybody on the east coast, so his orientations were developed independently from Vizard. Much of the first section of the first video is taken up with these things.
It appears that much of the whole LSA issue centers around when the intake valve opens. From there, then comes duration and lift. When the exhaust is fully open then determines the complete LSA situation.
Vizard has a few videos out on his "128 Formula", which he devised from his experiences. He also has comments about how what is on the cam card is not always accurate, which means "degree the cam for verification". BTAIM
The "Mr. T" which Adam mentions has the orientation that increasing exhaust duration helps top end power, specifically, which even his dyno runs does not indicate, although torque below 4000rpm is affected. I don't know who that is, nor is that an issue to me. BTAIM
mp
Once one understands the ports and how they work best, specifically on a common Chevy 350, then they can look at other heads' ports and see why they don't flow as they should, by comparison. Plus what can be done to improve them. THEN, look into the combustion chamber and the intake manifold. THEN look backward to the various GM brands and their cyl head/camshaft interactions. For example, in the middle 1960s, Pontiac's OEM camshafts usually had valve lifts in the .425" range. Higher power versions of their 389s and 421s had modestly longer durations. Why? It was noted that flow "stalled" above about .430" lift. So they were walking the tight rope between acceptable idle for their normal customers and being able to have competitive or better power figures for advertising purposes. The Pontiacs were also long-rod motors, which was another (unknowing) dynamic in getting mediocre ports to flow well.
BUT outside of camshaft things, the OTHER big deal I came across is "Plateau Honing" of cylinder bores. I came across that on a Lake Speed video where he was talking about a lot of things. Plateau honing is where the initial hone is done with a diamond honing item. A rougher cut than normal, then followed with a different abrasive to get to the "plateau" finish at the desired size. So I searched for "Plateau Honing Rottler" and found that YT video which explained how the computerized Rottler honing machine does that finish. With the accompanying surface finish graph and related numbers. Such a finish works with former-OEM width piston rings, but seems to work better with the current-OEM "mm" ring packages. End result, about +100 MORE horsepower in a Winston Cup engine with those items alone AND decreased bore wear at the same time. Getting some piston manufacturers to do a run of .030" OS pistons for Buick NH V-8s with the new "mm" ring package might be easier than getting a run of flanged-top air filter elements, just cost a bunch more.
In these lookings-around, I was reminded that Buick NH engines had a big following, though not as large as the original Chrysler Hemi, in particular modified drag racing classes in the later 1950s. With superchargers and all. Which would mean that some old equipment might be hiding somewhere in somebody's shop or information of such in somebody's alive brain? If it happened with Chevy 348/409, it could happen with Buick NH engines, too. Don't see how long you can hold your breath, though.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
-
1
-
-
In thinking about what I saw in the second video, looking at the power curves and dyno run sheets of Adam's dyno runs, past about 4000rpm the LSA did not matter much at all, but below that it could influence things a good bit. I would like to have seen the numbers on his dually 383, though.
When plugging numbers into the "128 Formula", the 110 LSA made more sense as to lower-to-midrange torque. But I believe he touched on lengthening the LSA for better idle quality, which would also lessen low rpm torque at the same time.
In the dyno run sheet compilation, the more-optimum the LSA got compared to the others, as great as the difference might have been, it appeared to seldom amount to more than 30 lbs-ft of torque. Which CAN be significant in vehicle advertising or on a race track.
Yet when doing an OEM engine for the masses, some power/torque is usually "left on the table" to work better for more people in daily use. Plus leave some room for the aftermarket people to be able to sell cams to people who "want more". As the "128 Formula" can assist them in finding one.
Most cam companies sell cams for "Engine Families" rather than specific engine sizes. Engine size can affect LSA, along with different intake valve sizes. So unless a cam is customer-ground for a specific engine and use, the LSA can be off-optimum by a few degrees, sometimes. Which is probably where duration comes into the mix, as well as port flow capacities (intake valve sizes)? As if, in the case of Chevy V-8s, they optimize a cam for the most popular size (350) and then offer it for any other small block Chevy engine (in the family) letting the purchaser determine if it will work for them.
Under that thought, when I was first looking around for a better cam for my '77 Camaro 305, I considered various things and realized that bigger engines need more duration than smaller engines did. I devised a formula to reflect such. I had several friends who had installed the popular CompCams 268HE cam in their 350s, which worked very sell, but I had a 305 with highway gears. So after much slide rule activity, determined that the next size down would be wheat I needed for the smaller engine. Which worked well for me. I further expanded my computations to include other engine families of the time, too.
In other looking around, I remembered Vizard talking about Harvey Crane. I finally found a Crane Cams Master Catalog, from about 2018 or so. It had the history of Crane Cams and LOTS of other good cam information in there. Including their CD electronic ignition conversion kits, using points as triggers or their LED system.
In the Crane catalog, I was reminded of how many cams they had. Some only a few degrees of duration apart, or very similar duration times with a different LSA for different applications.
But only 1967 and newer Buick V-8 cams, unfortunately. Guess I need to seek out a 1968 master catalog?
In these looking-around adventures, I also discovered many companies (in various parts of the USA) which do camshaft restorations and re-grinds. In one video, Vizard mentioned Demos Cams and one in the Pacific Northwest also was mentioned by somebody else.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
-
2
-
-
1962 was the year the feds mandated "factory seat belt anchors" be factory installed for front seat seat belts. Prior to that, instructions in the belt package.
NTX5467
-
UPDATE: I had heard David Vizard talk about how cam companies do not fully understand the specs on the cam cards. At the time, I suspected there was some truth in that, but it would also mean the cam companies were not giving the purchaser the correct information about what they built and sold to their customers. Which caused some ????. I also had heard him talk about his proven method to determine what LSA was needed for best power. In this case, "Power" would be for a race engine, not a street engine. BTAIM
I happened onto a YouTube video by "Cattledog Garage" which started to explain these things. The video is just over 96minutes long, with a good bit of prior information getting to the "meat" of things at about the 48 minute mark. The first part is the backdrop to what comes later in the video, though, so find a comfortable seat.
He has many of the formulas which Mr. Vizard uses to determine camshaft LSA, .050" Duration, etc. The orientation is to determine an optimal LSA, THEN choose duration, and such.
As with many of the longer YT videos, keep the cursor poised over the "Skip Ad" area to click for better continuity, then in order to better understand what is being said, use the cursos to PAUSE the video to understand the on-screen dyno runs and formulas, too. Also, have some paper and a writing instrument close-by to fill in the numbers for the formulas presented. Or take some screenshots with your phone.
This video shows a date of "A Year Ago", with another video of his showing a more recent time.
www.YouTube.com/watch?v=STRx2yU6AuA
The "128 Formula" is stated to work with small block Chevy motors and some others, with a different number for other popular engines. Of which Buick is not in the list, but after watching the full video, you can get an idea of how the NH Buick can fit into the mix. In order to get an approx ".050" duration", multiplying the factory duration numbers (in the chart presented a few days ago) by .80. Hopefully this video can give you a better understanding of what the cam card numbers really mean.
Happy watching!
NTX5467
-
1
-
1
-
-
As I recall on some new GM cars from the middle 1960s, when the driers were painted, there was a cup-shaped plastic cap over the sight glass. It was there to keep the glass from being painted and left there. Many people pulled them off and chunked them as "not needed" or "They should have discarded them after painting them".
Years ago, I received a "listening device" to use to listen for bubbles when charging an automotive a/c system. It works well as to hearing the bubbles go through the lines. For use either as a replacement for watching the sight glass or for systems which did not have one. When I got it as a door prize, I had never heard of such things, but I have one.
Of course, you know you can go into the Four Seasons website and look around before buying anything! Might even be a "Buyer's Guide" section with pictures and specs of the items in the back of the catalog, too. Summit is just one of their re-sellers, just as Amazon is.
NTX5467
-
I somewhat suspect that if there was such a document, it would not related to just the 1960 models, but probably a few model years sooner, when the option first became available for accessory installation.
There would be an instruction sheet in the accessory package of the pair of seat belts, though. Which would also probably have an illustration of where the factory holes/anchors were in the floorpan. Possibly with a paper template of where to drill?
As to actual installation of the belts, back then the belts were just for the outer/normal passenger locations. Nothing for the center front seat position. Usually, the inner belts (with the buckles) were criss-crossed over the driveshaft tunnel, such that the belt installed on the rh side ended up being the buckle for the driver as the belt installed to the rh side went to the passenger side seating position. This way, the angle of "pull" would be more gradual of a "U" shape with more gradual forces against the user.
The location of the outer belts would be into the inner side of the rocker panes. Unless the upscale retractor mechanisms were installed on those belts, they just laid against the seat tracks. Retractors could be installed easily, if desired. Later models had a vinyl holder they were installed into, some with a larger end to accomodate the retractor and rolled-up belt, when not in use.
As these were officially "accessory" items, I doubt they would be covered in the factory service manual, which makes the instruction sheet more important. In some of the vendors which sell accessory seat belts, I would suspect they would have some more detailed instruction sheets as to where the factory anchors might be, both on the driveshaft tunnel and the inner rocker panels.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
-
In the mean time, you can secure that level (on the height sensor) in the "normal ride height" position so the compressor only runs long enough to put the min pressure into the air shocks, then cuts off as it perceives the ride height is where it needs to be.
NTX5467
-
Probably the same as a similar Olds Toronado which shared the E-body platform with the Riv. Salvage yards, probably?
Good that the pump still works!
NTX5467
-
On the front page at www.eatondetroitspring.com, after you input the vehicle info, the next page which comes up is the springs they have available for the vehicle. Including stiffness specs. They might heven have option for a lower ride height, as they have them for increased ride height.
Be aware of the dynamics of lowering a coil spring car had the way it used to be done. "Cutting coils" was for the ones where the bottom wire had a cut end, so cutting a coil would lower the car. Others used a torch to heat the wire (installed in the car) so relax it so it would drop a bit. MORE precision in how this was done in order that the car was level when finished.
A shorter coil spring usually becomes stiffer. USUALLY.
With the car lower to the ground, you'll discover just how low it was to start with! When you start scraping the frame on normal approaches to businesses and driveways. With all of the ride height decrease being on the compression side of things, dips which did not bottom-out the suspension should now be slowed down for to prevent that. Looks might be neater, BUT there can also be a set of new driving tactics adopted in order to maintain "the look".
Enjoy!
NTX5467
-
I went back and downloaded the earlier PDF of the '59-'66 cam specs for good measure. In those earlier days, LCA was not a real spec to look at in determining which cam to use. I'm also not aware of what the Nailhead engine "likes" in that respect. Many of the Chevrolet and Chrysler OEM cams were on 112-114 LCA, by comparison. Many of the 1980s+ aftermarket cams (specifically CompCams and similar) were on 110LCA. Apparently, tightening the LCA toward 110 increases mid-range torque. Lunati seems to be one of the few to head toward the 114 LCA on their aftermarket cams.
When cams are re-ground, the base circle of the cam is decreased so that when the lobes are shortened, the lift of the lobe is maintained. Not sure of the lobe shape, though. Schneider used to built their own cams in the 1960s, but never was a big player as Isky was. I would be curious about their restoration process.
When I installed a Cam Dynamics 266 in my '77 Camaro 305 (upgraded to a Holley 4160 (emissions-spec for a '75 Impala 350) and the single-plane Holley 28-Z intake ("Z" for Zora's design with a resonating tube connecting #7 and #8, so #7 could receive a more even charge as it fires right after #5, which is located in the single-plane manifold, right beside the entry of #7 port). I had to re-curve the distributor to get back some of the off-idle response and power.
I was not really happy with how things worked out. I took the car to the dealership shop one Saturday to use the big SUNN diagnostic machine (which could check air/fuel ratio and HC/CO emissions). With things set as best I could tune them, the car idled at 600rpm in "P", in "D" the vac dropped to 10.5" Hg. Power brakes still worked as they did with the stock cam and 2bbl. The 10.5" Hg in "D" is significant as the two-stage power valve in the Holley's first activation was rated at 10" Hg. When I throttled into the motor to get it to 10" Hg, there was only minor enrichment until the vac level dropped to the 5.5" Hg "full open" level.
The particular cam's duration was 210 @ .050" with .440 lift on s 110LCA. So, to me, this is the max spec duration for a 5.0L motor that is expected to idle smooth in traffic with the stock converter. When the 305 was replaced with a 355 and that same cam and intake, it seemed to work much better as to torque output (as both engines had the same stroke). The 355 has the '86 Corvette factory aluminum heads, which were pre-Vortec in combustion chamber design, which should have helped a bit, too.
Allegedly, the old original CompCams "High-Energy" series cams were ground 4 degrees advanced. Never did really understand that. I knew that retarding a cam 4 degrees would help top-end power while also bleeding off a bit of low-end torque to make hooking-up with street tires a bit better at the drag strip.
Unfortunately, I fully understand that the Buick NailHead engine family is very antique, but so was the Chevy 348/409 before it saw a resurgence in the 1990s, such that new heads and many other "hot rod" things have appeared in recent years.
I determined years ago that many OEMs were trying many new things in their "modern" V-8 engine designs. Everybody was watching what everybody else was doing, too! The OTHER situation was that these engines had to be able to be installed into frames which were designed around INLINE engines. Looking at the exhaust manifolds of the Chrysler Hemi V-8 illustrates this! Which could also be the reason that non-Chevy V-8s of that time were "different" with their longer strokes and taller decks. The next redesign of the frames/bodies allowed the front frame sections to be widened to better accommodate the wider V-8 engines which were to come.
I feel the Buick NH was the result of needing a competitive V-8, put into the earlier chassis, and needing the better low-end torque to do these things with 3.5-area axle ratios and the DynaFlow transmission. AND, as Buick was the "smoooth" division of GM, their engines had to idle smooooth and operate nicely, too. So, that resulted in the head ports the NH had. Plus a few other design attributes which were torque-oriented rather than 6000rpm power oriented.
In looking at some of the head port flow numbers in Team Buick, I was shocked to see such good numbers. BUT flow numbers are just that, numbers, not related to how the flow into the combustion chamber might be biased and how all of these things interact. Then considering the flow OUT of the engine and into the smaller-diameter exhaust systems of back then.
I've wondered how a fully-modernized NH might run and produce power with a self-learning EFI (which also did full ignition control), nicer exhaust manifolds, and a quiet lower restriction exhaust system. THEN pairing these things with piston crowns for a better-optimized combustion process AND pistons with the current OEM "mm" ring packages and bore finish! And, of course, a camshaft with "modern tech" for improved power and lower emissions/better fuel economy. Even asymetrical lobes which keep the valves at max lift for 10 degrees of crank rotation. AND do all of this while maintaining the OEM appearance of things, when possible.
Just some thoughts, observations, and dreams,
NTX5467
-
1
-
1
-
-
GM used to have a small bottle of additive termed "Automatic Transmission Conditioner". It was a small bottle with some detergents in it and also a "seal conditioner" (expanded by about 1% or so). Adding a bottle of that might not hurt and probably might be better than some of the aftermarket stuff. I used it in my THM350 and it caused no issues, back in the 1990s. Even seemed to speed shift changes a bit, like going from the Dexron II to Dexron IIE, it seemed. Past that, an atf change to Valvoline MaxLife atf, which has some of the seal sweller in it, as I understand it.
FWD puts a different twist on things, as to serviceability. Somewhat compounded by current labor rates. Having the correct fixtures, tools, and jacking mechanisms is import and not inexpensive for the shop.
As to DIY atf changes, using an electric extractor pump (as some places sell to do yard equipment oil changes with) might be a good option. Pumps the fluid out through the dipstick tube into a container for recycling or other uses. It can be metered this way, so you know how much comes out and how much to put back in.
NTX5467
-
1
-
-
IF y'all want to "kill some cats", put your suspicion word into Google Translator and see what happens.
-
2
-
-
I suspect that one reason this subject is a bit controversial is that LOCATION of the people who do it never is mentioned. Just "Do it, it worked for me". Others do it as a "high performance" modification, not later admitting how poor the car runs when cold in cold weather. Usually blaming it on the gas or similar, not the modification. Many times, they did it because somebody in a car magazine said they did it. Again, not taking into consideration where that car lived!
NTX5467
-
"Service Replacement" was NOT a recall issue, just a carburetor which would fit particular applications in particular model years, sold by GM Parts. Certainly, it would have the latest upgrades and such, just as the GM Reman Automatic Transmissions/Transaxles have all of the upgrades done to them so the customer gets a current-OEM version rather than what they had when the vehicle was new.
There might have been a Buick TSB issued to let the dealers' parts and service people know about the newly-available carburetor. Still, not a "Recall Notice" situation.
NTX5467
-
Wheels which are tube-type usually have the inner section rivetted to the outer rim (where the tire mounts). On tubeless wheels, it is welded instead.
As to the outer edge of the "rim", THAT is what can be different, not just the locating ridge the tire must pop over when mounting. There are several different heights and configurations, which is what the letters after the rim diameter designate. Like "J" or "JK", for example. There is probably some online source to illustrated the differences.
The "Safety Rim" wheels which Chrysler bally-hooed as being standard equipment on their cars, sometime in the middle1950s time, was about the tire beads not pulling off of the rim in hard turns. Which a taller rim edge height would prevent. Ford talked about seat belts and padded dashes. Chrysler talked about wheels. GM sold "High Style" and "Boulevard Ride".
I remember people talking about their OEM wheels cracking when used on 1940s and 1950s wheels. It always seemed to be related to the original tube-type wheels? Always a "If it works, good" situation, it seemed.
The other thing is that modern P-Metric radials have been "de-harshened" to allow for higher inflation pressures, so they might not be as "damaging" to the wheels as the old Michelin X steel belted radials?
I concur with JohnD's decision.
NTX5467
-
1
-
-
My "predictive text" orientation did the same thing, the first time. I realized "That can't be right" and read it "right".
Enjoy!
NTX5467
-
1
-
2
-
-
As the 1960s and until we got oxygenated fuel in the 1990s or so, the optimum air/fuel ratio was 14.7 to 1 at cruise. A bit less at idle, in the high 13s or so. IF you were chasing max power, then down into the middle 12s. So the specs in the correct model year factory service manuals reflect these things.
With oxygenated fuels and the current E10 blends, the optimum air fuel ratio is closer to 14.2 to 1. Which means the engines are effectively running leaner than the 14.7 mixture (at sea level). For the E15 which many seem to perceive we need to be using, the optimum air fuel ratio would be closer to 14.1 or so, I suspect.
In prior times when E10 was not the "national fuel" of sorts, if one jetted up to approach the 14.2 a/f level, it could mean that if normal E0 fuel was used, the resulting mixture would decrease fuel economy a bit. Of course, EFI would compensate for these things automatically, plus altitude issues.
The computerized "Carb Cheater" device, being a computer controlled variable vacuum bleed, would need a carburetor with an intentionally-too-rich calibration to work to its capabilities, I suspect. As that device needs to have an oxygen sensor installed, why not just go ahead and install the oxygen sensor and then add the EFI system to it for best drivability and fuel economy? Using one of the fuel sumps to still use the existing fuel lines and sending unit, if enough underhood space can be found.
The OTHER observation about using E10 fuels is that it can dissolve the solder used around the sealing balls on the drilled passages of earlier carburetors which are sealed on the external part of the carburetor. In many cases, emptying the float bowl onto the intake manifold of a hot engine. BTAIM
Just like being single or getting married, EACH side of that discussion has benefits and other things to deal with. Just depends on which set of "+" or "-" items you want to deal with . . .
Enjoy!
NTX5467
-
Consider, too, that sellers are not duty-bound to charge shipping costs at what they paid for them. So they can make profits on them, too, even if they get a discount on them.
If you're buying a $25.00 USD part, that means the seller might potentially make $10.00 USD on it. They've got to pay bills, too. Just because RockAuto charges less to ship than others is not "industry standard" by any means. RockAuto probably ships via a consolidator, so they get a discounted rate. Private businesses can operate as they might desire. The great thing is that "customers have choices" of where to spend their money.
I used to ship some smaller car parts from TX to Sweden in the 1990s. At that time, there were extra steps to ensure the credit card worked before they got shipped and a few other things. Definitely not "plug 'n play", back then. Not the same as shipping something domestically, even back then.
Regards,
NTX5467
-
Unless that manifold is going to boost 2000-3000rpm torque, it could well "more-pig" things until the secondaries open, especially with a DynaFlow.
Get some black, hard carb studs from the auto supply. Normal nuts, with flat washers, though. Then the OEM thick spacer/insulator carb base gasket. Leave the exh crossover plugs in the bag.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
-
1
-
-
22 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
Looks like Jim Donnelly needs to explore the definition of torture.
Reminds me of a friend who told me about a doctor asking about his pain on a scale of 1 to 10. My friend asked "Am I right with the idea of being shot in the shoulder with an M 16 as a 10?"
My '60 Electra takes Mcadam and dirt with ease. 100 MPH cars all day long.
You should get a picture of the dust cloud from inside the car, looking back at it as it happens. To evaluate the air flow around the car, which comes together behind the car. With somebody else riding with you doing the photography.
-
I would suspect that the air tags are paired with only YOUR device and not every similar phone in their proximity. If they did, you'd receive notifications to pair with them every time they were close, it seems to me. I would expect that each one has a unique identifier in the network that is also attached to your phone. Might need to download the instruction manual for the Air Tags to verify?
NTX5467
Something to remember
in Buick Riviera
Posted
As to the Audi, I recently found a YouTube channel "I Do Cars". The operative owns a vehicle salvage business and resells good items on totalled vehicles, it seems. The subject of the channel is that he dismantles engines. I found one where he took a failed Audi V-10 apart. Unlike some engines which are very simple and easy to take apart, like the Hyundai 2.4L, that V-10 Audi was terrible. Lots of little add-on things on the outside that were terribly-designed and could have been done differently. YUKKK!!! No wonder they would have a high scrap rate and very expensive to even change the spark plugs on! Most of his videos are in the 30-35 minute range, but that Audi V-10 was well over an hour. By comparison, the Viper V-10 was much more "normal" in getting it apart.
IF I ever did have the urge to have an Audi, it would be as a 3-yr lease with normal maintenance included. In the later 1990s, I did think about an A4, but too much money for me. He did have lots of good things to say about the Buick 3800.
A neat channel to watch and learn from,
NTX5467