NTX5467
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Posts posted by NTX5467
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As I recall, the whole "Scarebird" situation is based on parts available from auto supplies and such. I noticed that as some auto supply parts were used, the listings were modified to use other application parts from the ones first listed. Eventually, all of the "will fit" parts will age out of the vendor network.
The other question is what is really different on the Riviera items from other higher-production-level Buicks?
Perhaps a Hollander Interchange Manual is needed?
Just some thoughts and observations,
NTX5467
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With the electronic ignition distributor, you can probably widen the spark plug gap to .040" with the recommended ign coil for the distributor. On a normal ignition, you can do that too. The stock coil should have enough guts to produce that much spark, I suspect. If it does not, head back toward .035" gap.
I know we are all used to seeing the normal plugs which are not "extended gap", but the extended gap plugs put the spark out in the chamber for an easier initiation of ignition with its spark. In one Petersen Publications book I bought back in the late 1960s, it likened the effect of being like advancing timing by 2 degrees from using a non-extended gap plug. Using an AC 45TS instead of the spec AC 45 plug, for example.
That book also mentioned a "J-gap" plug which Champion had back then for "racing". The difference in this plug was that the ground electrode extended only 1/2 of the way across the center electrode. Exposing more of the spark kernel to the air/fuel mix. After reading that, I got out my point file (remember them?) and filed the ground electrodes of the J-14Y Champions in our car to the J-gap specs. Throttle response off-idle was a bit cleaner and more energetic. Maybe a slight bit better at WOT, too, but I did no timed tests, just how things felt.
In the 1990s, when the "quality of the spark" came under scrutiny, the ACDelco Rapidfire plugs had such a J-gap orientation and a few other "tricks" for a more-exposed spark kernel. NGK V-Power plugs took things a bit further with their center electrode having a "V" cut into it, to force the spark to the edges of the ground electrode, plus the J-gap, too. Toyota used them OEM, but with a normal NGK part number. From my experiences, they DO allow the use of leaner mixtures reliably (which is what happens with E10 fuels compared to E0 fuels), so they can be a somewhat inexpensive way to get to what I did with all of my electrode filing decades ago. They also seem to have more affect with a more-open combustion chamber than a wedge chamber, but they work with all of them, from my experiences. I could usually get about 25K miles between re-gappings.
As for the Iridium fine-wire electrode spark plugs, what makes them better is that the "fine wire" of their electrodes puts any spark they produce right out into the mixture, no shrouding of the spark kernel at all, for a more substantial POW when the spark happens. There are a few YouTube videos on this on a lawn mower engine. Longer run time on a tank of fuel plus less deposits on the cyl head. Of course, with over 100K change intervals, plus the better combustion, they can be "forever" spark plugs. For a price. For most people, the NGK V-Power plugs can be the best value, though. Considering how many miles the vehicles get driven is a factor too, plus ease of getting to the plugs in the car.
Y'all enjoy!
NTX5467
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I'll start by admitting I do NOT know all of the intricacies of the earlier Carter 4bbls and how they relate to Buicks. Or know where the timing marks might be, whether on the lower pulley, damper, of viewed through a hole in the bellhousing. BTAIM
Also, if you desire to exactly match tuning in the manual to what the car/engine does, you'll need to find some low octane leaded race gas, rather than even non-ethanol fuel. I'm presuming some of the instructions you found on the carburetor service website might have had some alterations for ethanol'd unleaded fuel?
For those of us who grew up with engine hot base idle speeds, in gear, of 550rpm, 350rpm seems a bit unusual. The ONLY reason to use that low of an idle speed is to ensure the mechanical advance weights in the distributor are in their "Zero advance" position and/or low enough manifold vacuum such that manifold vacuum level is below when the vac advance mechanism starts to advance things. These specs were configured in a time when gas had lead in it and few people had something like a then-high tech timing light. Vac gauges, yes. So, set the idle speed down to where the engine is barely running to set the timing. Plain
and simple.
I'm presuming you have a timing light. So if the timing mark is in the bellhousing, when you get it set, you might consider putting a mark on a pulley and the engine block. Basically making an easier-to-access mark for where the timing should be set when all is right. Be aware, too, that dwell can affect ignition timing, degree for degree, as to variance from the desired 30 degrees.
As to the electronic ign dwell reading, to me, it is an accurate number, but it is usually considered "not significant" as there is no way to change or adjust it. It's still the same situation as with points, just done with transistors and such. Of course, when you change distributors, you always check/set the timing anyway, so no way to test the two settings against each other with respect to base timing. So, don't worry about it.
The observed 41 degrees electronic dwell reading is similar to what the old dual-point distributors ran, for better coil saturation and a hotter spark. So, it should work better than single points ever could in that respect. How much difference it would make? Probably only above 3500rpm or so and when the engine is under full load, as in WOT acceleration. The more stable vac readings with the electronics in control probably could be the result of the longer dwell, I suspect.
Remember, too, that when the factory idle speed specs were written, they were using a new carburetor with NO deposits in it. You might have kitted the carb and looked to see that all was clean, but IF there might be any "hard" deposits in hidden passages (air or fuel), the cleaner will not touch them. Such things have to be removed mechanically with twist drill bits, by observation. I doubt the '55-era fuels used any additives which would leave such hard deposits, too. Yet modern fuels seem to, otherwise the fuel injection-rated metal fuel filters would not need to be changed every so often, lest they resist the electric fuel pumps enough to melt the wiring harnesses going to them (observed on '90s Chevy/GMC Suburbans when the fuel filters had not been changed, usually happening after 70K miles).
If you want to use the 350rpm level, yet the engine will not do it in "P", if you start at 500 or so rpm and then put the transmission in "D", will it go that low then? With a foot firmly planted on the brake pedal? If it will do that, then with an assistant holding the brake, set the timing that way. When done, it's done. Doesn't matter how you got there, just that you got there.
All of the little holes and slots locations near the carb throttle plates are calibrated around the slower idle speeds for "idle speed setting", so getting as close to them as possible is necessary for best results. After getting the idle and dwell set (with the points), then optimize the idle mixture and speed around the factory specs.
The idle mixture screws should have sensitivity to turning them in and out at the base idle speed. If not, increase the idle speed 25rpm or so and re-check.
In using your points distributor, set the dwell FIRST, then the ignition timing. With the electronic distributor, just set the timing as the dwell is non-adjustable and electronic. Then optimize the hot base idle speed and mixture.
Sorry for the length. I hope this might explain why some of the settings were done as they were, in a time when many people had a vac gauge and had to borrow high-tech instruments like timing lights and dwell-tachs from others (who needed them for their work).
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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1 hour ago, JZRIV said:
How would one accurately measure the ID of a connecting rod with the bearing cap installed and bearing shells in place?
There is a specific type of micrometer which measures the internal diameter of the bearings when installed in the caps and torqued to spec. Then that length can be verified with a normal outside diameter micrometer. Some of the old MOTOR manuals and such show them in use.
Plastigauge is a relatively new invention, from the middle 1960s or so. Take a calibrated diameter of plastic and place a bit on the crank journal, install the bearing and cap, torque to specs, remove the bearing cap to see how wide the plastic squished out to. Compare it to the scale on the wrapper to see what the clearance is. No math or knowing how to best use the two micrometers. Quick and easy and accurate. For most automotive engines, the "green" PG is what's needed. The "red" is for wider clearances.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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In one respect, on the main bearings, you might put the bearings in, fully seat them, dry them of oil, then install the main caps dry with the Plastigauge. Then remove the caps and check the width of the squish of the Plastigauge for the bearing clearance. You can do all of the mains this way, then remove the crank and lube all of the bearings and install them for good.
On those lubed main bearings, then rotate the crank to bring the rod journals up for installation. Dry both bearings, install the rod caps, remove the rod cap and check for squish, then oil everything and put it back together on that journal. Repeat with the other rod pairs. When done, re-check for ease of turning.
It might be a bit geeky, but doing this totally dry might result in just a hair wider clearances, but still well within specs. But whether the block or rod size bearings are oiled or not, still a good way to measure things other than use an inside micrometer and a normal micrometer (and related math, as in prior times).
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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Years ago, when scrounging a local salvage yard for items for my '68 LeSabre, I found an Electra from the same model year and saw lots of little differences in the front end items from my '68 LeSabre. Like the hood pop-up spring by the latch, which my LeSabre did not have. Seeing a good windshield washer jug, I got it.
When I got the items back to my shop and the LeSabre, I started to install the windshield washer jug. The one I got had about twice the capacity as the LeSabre item, which was good, BUT the lower mounting holes were 1/2 bolt width different than the smaller LeSabre item. Fancier car gets the bigger jug, BUT the bigger jug can't go on the lesser-model car! At least without re-drilling some holes in a non-stock location.
Just my experiences,
NTX5467
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Did the lobes the worn lifters were on ALSO show similar wear? If so, it's "camshaft time", too.
It is better to use far too much moly paste assy lube than not. Plus some high-zddp motor oil for the cam break-in procedures.
NTX5467
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2 minutes ago, gungeey said:
Did you torque #5 cap and check for clearance before installing the rope seal (plastigauge etc)?
I oil the end of a wooden hammer handle and press the rope into its groove a "slide while exerting pressure" action. The rope seal gets assembly lube at final installation. It should addmore resistance but not lock the crank up by any means.
If I'm trial fitting the crank the upper bearings get a smear of oil and the caps go on dry one at a time and tested for proper oil clearance.
After that checks out then use assembly ube on 1-4, the last cap gets jabbering as a separate job.
Even if the machine shop did this measuring I would do it again, especially final cleaning crankshaft, oil journals with brushes etc.
What brand of rear main seal did you get?
When reading this procedure, about leaving one bearing dry, this IS necessary as Plastigauge does not like oil. So keeping the particular journal and bearing half dry is important for an accurate width of the Plastigauge. Then, after those checks are made, as mentioned, remove the bearing cap and lube the bearing for final use. As the rope seal will need a bit of lube, too.
NTX5467
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The rope seal will have more drag than a lip seal, but not enough to really drag things down. In some of the older manuals, it talked about using a round rod to seat the seal in its housing. Press and roll the rod against the seal, so it gets more into a place of how it will be with the crank installed.
You might need to find an old MOTOR manual (or similar) to find the "unadmitted to" steps which the factory leaves out of their factory service manuals.
NTX5467
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Each plant has their own sequence and starting digit of the sequence number. This can loosely relate to the date the production order was scheduled for production. Low digits past the first plant-digit to high numbers at each plant might give an idea of "early", but "late" would depend upon when that plants sequence numbers stopped for the model year. Same for the VIN number of the vehicle.
NTX5467
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I concur. Buy a Prius, learn about it, how it does what it does, why it does what it does. Then figure out a better way to do it. Possibly even prototyping your idea on that car. This will give you real-world hands-on experiences from which new innovations can be born. Reman Prius batteries are available from Toyota Parts and are easy to change. One man locally gets on of the reman batteries, they uncrate it at the dealership, then he puts it in the back of his Prius. Goes to the customer's location, changes it out, and returns the core to the dealership. The core goes into the original crate and it goes back to Toyota for re-doing. I don't think the batteries are terribly expensive, either?
Other than a Prius, you can also look for a used Honda Hybrid, too. Allegedly, Honda has the best system and Toyota built their system off of the Honda system.
In 5 years, no telling where battery tech will be! Obviously more toward an evolved solid-state battery? Less charging time and more distance? As powertrains become more efficient, too.
Every so often, LinkedIN has some job postings for Tesla parts and service employees. Getting into the parts area might be something you could learn their systems through. Might be enjoyable, just not a profitable as being a registered EE, but might be a decent summer or semester job.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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All header panels should be plate steel. Welded together as on a hardtop or sedan. In the body parts illustrations, that's what is indicated. Rebuilding your parts might be the best option. I'll continue to dig through the 72 and prior Buick part books I have downloaded.
NTX5467
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Have you seen the pictures of the 1964-ish LeSabre which was "modded" with electricity? OR the other kits out there to do such conversions??? Not really an original idea, it seems, with all due respect. Apparently more information on such than you might suspect. Even from Holley.
There is also a YouTube video on reviving one of the 492 1997 S-10s Chevy built which were electric.
You might be able to replace the gas engine with an electric motor and bolt it to the THM400, or a THM200-4R OD (to make better use of existing power for increased range. BUT the real issue is the battery pack. It would be really neat if you could use one of the "almost here" solid state battery packs that the OEMs are getting ready to release (sometime). IF you look at the earlier Chevy Volt, the whole center of the floorpan is the battery. Looking at the parts illustration of the huge number of wiring harnesses looks like it would be a nightmare to try to emulate!!
End result, your desired end result could easily end up being a huge money chasm. Not "pit", but CHASM. With a restorable car becoming a pile of rust in the process. If you want to save the car, restore it with the production drivetrain. It will be far more valuable to ANYBODY that way! Restore the Riviera and use the profits from the sale to finance your EV project.
In the mean time, focus your energies on how the OEMs are doing their electric vehicles. Learn about all of the neat tech in the Tesla Cybertruck and other Tesla models, for example. They are engineering marvels, from what I have seen. After this research, THEN figure out how to adapt your tech to vintage ICE vehicles without massive weight additions (the Cybertruck weights 7000lbs, compared to the Hummer EV which is 9000lbs) due to current battery packs. By that point in time, the charging infrastructure will be more built-out and you can enjoy your work better. Plus lighter-weight battery packs.
You might get the motor and batteries installed, but the weight involved could be well PAST what the orig frame AND suspension and brakes can work with. Upgrades will be needed! Plus higher-capacity tires.
I ran across a YouTube video by a Mr. Slye, who talked about optimum charge levels for daily use. He has two Teslas. The one he drives daily has over 135K miles and has 93% effectiveness in the orig battery.
Do your research on the subject BEFORE you use the Riv as the guinea pig.
Regards,
NTX5467
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In looking for "Sunshade Supports Buick Electra 1965" in Google, I remembered that something which could be this generic in GM should also fit other GM cars. From my years in GM Parts, that part probably is not unique to that model year of Electra. Most, I suspect, would also be chromed. In which case, I found a complete set of TWO supports, chromed, with attaching screw AND the plastic bushings which replace same in the sun visor itself for less than $30.00. Might not be an exact exact match, but definitely useable, I suspect.
In GM Parts language, the "sun visor" is "sunshade". The "support" is what the sunshade slides onto, on its "spike" end. The "bushing" is the plastic piece which slides into the sunshade, which the spike end of the support slides into and is tight (adjustable with the screw in the sunvisor) so the sunshade stays adjusted as desired, up and down.
Just curious, where are you looking for these things?
FWIW,
NTX5467
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What the sun visors attach to the roof header panel with, and swivel?
NTX5467
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When I first thought about leasing, in the middle 1970s, over purchasing a car, almost every dealer I talked to said "No lease unless you need to write-off the expenses in your business". Mentioning doctors and such in that dialogue. By the later 1970s, when car sales were tanking, many dealers would tout leases as they could get the car on the road for less initial costs to the customer. I suspect that those customers did not fully know of the various aspects of having a lease, but soon found out. In current times, when you see mention of "Low Mileage Lease", figure on 9-10,000 miles/year. Some city dwellers can do that, but not people living in locales where driving is needed to do daily things. OTHER "gotcha" things hidden in the fine print, too, sometimes.
In my advancing years, in some respects, a lease can make more sense IF I want a new car to drive. I might can deal with the lower mileage limits as I have another car in the garage. BUT if the terms are right, I can pay for the lease a few months after I get the vehicle, then just worry about watching the mileage/condition until the lease is up. No monthly payments. Hopefully less total expenditure for the lease period. Then turn it back in when the mileage starts to get close. Should something happen to me in the mean time, just let the leasing company have it back.
In the 1970s, leasing was something that companies did, not private owners. As a result, smaller dealers tried to shift you away from leasing, as they were oriented toward "selling" instead. One related that if they leased a vehicle, they might not get credit for that "non-sale" in their vehicle allocations. BTAIM So, only larger dealers had any real knowledge of these things, it seemed.
In the mean time, IF I buy anything, I might hope to find an off-lease vehicle so I know it meets specific cosmetic standards and has had regular maintenance.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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After watching the disassembly of an Audi V-10 on YouTube "I Do Cars", plus some others too, it can be very easy to see which companies have the better-designed engines. Engines which are easy to take apart and those which aren't. The Audi V-10 certainly fits that last description! The Rolls Royce V-8 from the earlier 1980s was a good reason to not use cyl head studs on an engine which is not often disassembled.
Most of his videos are about 30-45 minutes long. Some longer. ALL informative and easy to watch.
I concur on buying cars at the lower tier of their price cycles. Getting "good ones" is important, too, which means to do due diligence prior to purchase.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
PS -- I used to do the Susan B. Komen driving events when BMW was a name-sponsor. Neat stuff! One year, I opted for the 7-series V-10 sedan. The attendant asked if I wanted a demonstration of the then-recent I-Drive system. I said "Just show me how to start it", which he did. I drove the specified 10 mile route, 5 miles down and 5 miles back. After I got onto the freeway, the chimes went off. Somebody had set the speed-minder at 62mph and I had eased over that. When I got to the turn around exit, there had been another driver in a V-8 that had been tailing me. When I crossed the freeway and got on the access road, after it got straightened out, I nailed it. Feeling all of the various over-rides be active and then release at higher speeds. The speed minder went off again after 1/2 block. I looked back and no V-8 behind me. I eased back onto the freeway and cruised back to the dealership. Feeling like I was piloting a jet airliner, settled into the comfortable bucket seat. I could own one, but the house and other things that went with it, not after buying the car. A neat dream, while it lasted.
After doing that deal for several years, I got bored and discovered some of the brand's short-comings. BUT, you could spend the day (after your initial appointment) and drive as many BMWs as you might desire, as they came back in and had no reservation on them.
A local car-talk show host commented one Saturday that a man he had sold Hondas to asked him about a 6-Series coupe. He went ahead and bought it used from the local dealer. It had a bit of wind noise on the lh side, so he took it in for an adjustment, customer pay. He figured it would be a few hundred dollars, but discovered when he went to pickup the car, the cost was $1600.00. He, naturally, requested an explanation. Seems that by factory literature, there were 16 adjustments, which had to be done in sequence, starting from the first one, which comprised that complete labor operation. Last BMW that guy bought.
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The words "exotic" and "low production/high investment" come into play. Get out that "blank check".
People want high horsepower, super-sonic road speeds, the "vented rotors" and calipers for all to see, BIG wheels and sticky tires to make it all work. $$$$$ follows, sooner or later.
When I went to the dealer training for the 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix, they told us to NOT put a GT Comp G car out on lease. Reason? The HP BFGs on the Comp G car would only last about 30k miles. So the customer would be buying tires before the 3-yr lease was up. The normal-spec tires would last longer. Which meant the customer did not have to buy tires during the lease, the leasing company would. KEY distinction, he said.
I used to like the 1980s fwd Audis, maybe the later A4 and A6. NOT after seeing that engine teardown!
NTX5467
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As to the drilled rotors which many vehicles seem to have these days . . . the only way to refinish them might be "on car cutting" with abrasive pads rather than cutting them on a lathe? Otherwise, it's replacement rather than refinish.
That "expense" part became evident to me when we bought a full brake set for a Land Rover we had traded for. Several years ago, the 4 rotors and new pads were about $1400.00, dealership cost. Of course, labor would increase that price a good bit, for close to $1700.00+ USD for a common brake job. After that, I started to notice that we were buying a good number of "brake jobs" on newer cars which had been traded-in.
I then realized that these people bought the cars when they lived "in the city" as they looked good to the neighbors. When they moved "to the suburbs and country", they needed a brake job sooner with more miles being driven/day. Then the vehicles needed a brake job. When they got that priced, they THEN decided to buy a new GM car without such rotors before they had to pay for the $$$$ brake job. This scenario was operative more than one might suspect.
Just some thoughts and observations,
NTX5467
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As to the Audi, I recently found a YouTube channel "I Do Cars". The operative owns a vehicle salvage business and resells good items on totalled vehicles, it seems. The subject of the channel is that he dismantles engines. I found one where he took a failed Audi V-10 apart. Unlike some engines which are very simple and easy to take apart, like the Hyundai 2.4L, that V-10 Audi was terrible. Lots of little add-on things on the outside that were terribly-designed and could have been done differently. YUKKK!!! No wonder they would have a high scrap rate and very expensive to even change the spark plugs on! Most of his videos are in the 30-35 minute range, but that Audi V-10 was well over an hour. By comparison, the Viper V-10 was much more "normal" in getting it apart.
IF I ever did have the urge to have an Audi, it would be as a 3-yr lease with normal maintenance included. In the later 1990s, I did think about an A4, but too much money for me. He did have lots of good things to say about the Buick 3800.
A neat channel to watch and learn from,
NTX5467
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Hagerty has recently started a program where you can pay to plant trees in order to offset vehicular emissions. Very inexpensive to do! Not unlike many funeral providers now have links to plant trees in some loved one's memory in a national forest. We need more trees!
As to the paper product at the grocery store, they need those trees to supply their industry.
FWIW,
NTX5467
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In doing an easy intake manifold swap (which did not necessitate distributor removal or dealing with a coolant passage), I figured out it was taking me "one night after work for each flat rate hour in the repair manual"
Didn't have any issues with dropped bolts, but I had one factory bolt that would NOT thread into the hole it came out of, nor a simlar bolt either. But after trying to figure that out, I got a new bolt at work the next day. With NO other changes, the new bolt dropped right in and tightened up. Not believing that, I removed it and compared it to the OEM bolt. No differences other than engine paint on the OEM bolts. So I put the new bolt in with a flat washer under the head and it's still in there.
No "drinking" involved. Other than perhaps Coca-Cola or Dr. Pepper . . . or city tap water.
That time became my new standard of project length prediction. Going along with the time and money over-run orientations others had mentioned.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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Might expand it to . . . "Getting ready to mine the metal, or drill for oil to make the petrochemicals to build your part. Plus refine the diesel to transport these things to our production facility. Provided they do not arrive at break time, during a contract issue, or power outage." ALL of which might be a cover for "We just screwed up and didn't build enough three years ago! Who had those original blueprints last? They don't work here any more? They died?"
NTX5467
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To me, part of Adam's credibility comes from the fact his grandfather worked for Chevy and Pontiac, AND made the acquaintance of Smokey. His father continued the legacy by having a machine shop, which Adam said he was working at 10 yrs old. Learning from his father and grandfather. So he's "third gen". He is in the Pacific Northwest, so no real reason to know of anybody on the east coast, so his orientations were developed independently from Vizard. Much of the first section of the first video is taken up with these things.
It appears that much of the whole LSA issue centers around when the intake valve opens. From there, then comes duration and lift. When the exhaust is fully open then determines the complete LSA situation.
Vizard has a few videos out on his "128 Formula", which he devised from his experiences. He also has comments about how what is on the cam card is not always accurate, which means "degree the cam for verification". BTAIM
The "Mr. T" which Adam mentions has the orientation that increasing exhaust duration helps top end power, specifically, which even his dyno runs does not indicate, although torque below 4000rpm is affected. I don't know who that is, nor is that an issue to me. BTAIM
mp
Once one understands the ports and how they work best, specifically on a common Chevy 350, then they can look at other heads' ports and see why they don't flow as they should, by comparison. Plus what can be done to improve them. THEN, look into the combustion chamber and the intake manifold. THEN look backward to the various GM brands and their cyl head/camshaft interactions. For example, in the middle 1960s, Pontiac's OEM camshafts usually had valve lifts in the .425" range. Higher power versions of their 389s and 421s had modestly longer durations. Why? It was noted that flow "stalled" above about .430" lift. So they were walking the tight rope between acceptable idle for their normal customers and being able to have competitive or better power figures for advertising purposes. The Pontiacs were also long-rod motors, which was another (unknowing) dynamic in getting mediocre ports to flow well.
BUT outside of camshaft things, the OTHER big deal I came across is "Plateau Honing" of cylinder bores. I came across that on a Lake Speed video where he was talking about a lot of things. Plateau honing is where the initial hone is done with a diamond honing item. A rougher cut than normal, then followed with a different abrasive to get to the "plateau" finish at the desired size. So I searched for "Plateau Honing Rottler" and found that YT video which explained how the computerized Rottler honing machine does that finish. With the accompanying surface finish graph and related numbers. Such a finish works with former-OEM width piston rings, but seems to work better with the current-OEM "mm" ring packages. End result, about +100 MORE horsepower in a Winston Cup engine with those items alone AND decreased bore wear at the same time. Getting some piston manufacturers to do a run of .030" OS pistons for Buick NH V-8s with the new "mm" ring package might be easier than getting a run of flanged-top air filter elements, just cost a bunch more.
In these lookings-around, I was reminded that Buick NH engines had a big following, though not as large as the original Chrysler Hemi, in particular modified drag racing classes in the later 1950s. With superchargers and all. Which would mean that some old equipment might be hiding somewhere in somebody's shop or information of such in somebody's alive brain? If it happened with Chevy 348/409, it could happen with Buick NH engines, too. Don't see how long you can hold your breath, though.
Enjoy!
NTX5467
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55 Roadmaster Engine Timing/Tuning
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I looked in the AMA Consolidated Specs document I downloaded a year or so ago.
Timing mark on damper, so easy to see, hopefully.
Centrifugal advance starts at about 600rpm. Hot base idle speed is 450rpm. Vac advance starts at about 6" Hg, 5 degrees BTDC base timing. ONE distributor part number for all Buick V-8s in 1955.
When the ambient daytime temps get up to tine lower 70s, check the operation of the automatic choke BEFORE starting the engine for the first time. It should just easily close, with the throttle set on full fast idle position (not started). Losen the thermostat adjustment and rotate it leaner until it barely closes fully. With time, the choke springs will tighten so using the service manual setting will make them too tight and the choke opens slower than it did when new. Which can aggravate any "carboning-up" issues. Test and re-check for best results.
Personally, I would not be concerned with the "350 rpm" situation. If the vac advance has a metal tube going to it, just get a small wrench and unhook and plug it to set the timing at 450rpm. When done, reconnect it. And that should solve your low-rpm issue.
As to the base timing, for diagnostics, try a bit more advance and see if you get any part-throttle pinging on hills and such, with the fuel you are using. See how far you can go before pinging happens, as to timing advance. Might go 2 degrees at a time. Perhaps @old-tank can advise of his experiences in what has worked for him?
Enjoy!
NTX5467