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ThomasBorchers

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  1. For the 30s a 1930 Cadillac V16 Roadster.<BR>For the 50s a 1958 Chevrolet Impala Coupe.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 01-19-2001).]

  2. 1909Buick~~<BR>Can you tell me if your car has a sliding gear transmission or a planetary transmission? 2 or 4 Zylinder? <BR>It is your car, or?<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

  3. Hi DFers.<BR>Where could I get a shop manual for our 1912 Buick Model 34 Roadster. We come now to a point during the restoration where we ask us how to fix something like the connection rods to the carb and so on. We need some pics from the engine room so that we can see where we have to attach the rods, and some other things.<BR>Thanks in advance.<P>Tom<P> <BR><P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

  4. My first car was and is still my 1980 Mercedes 230 CE 2d HT Coupe. I bought it in 1990. Invested a lot since then but runs fantastic.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

  5. I got the pics from Juha. I made them x-large so that you can see details. This is the reason why I don't post it here but if click you see the links you can see them.<BR><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/thomas_borchers/unknown.jpg" TARGET=_blank>pic 1</A><BR><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/thomas_borchers/unknown1.jpg" TARGET=_blank>pic 2</A><BR><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/thomas_borchers/unknown2.jpg" TARGET=_blank>pic 3</A><BR><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/thomas_borchers/unknown3.jpg" TARGET=_blank>pic 4</A><P>I mean that pic 2 and 3 is a 1911 Cadillac Model 30 with torpedo body? Because they call the torpedo as "all steel body" instead of the other bodies. They have the wooden fire wall.<P>Tom

  6. Hi Jim.<BR>Macs Auto Parts offer a 6 V alternator which you can switch from positive to negative ground if you need this.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

  7. Thanks Huey.<BR>I asked Robert McIntosh at Macs for the correct tension of the belt. It seems that the right tension is set when you can't turn the alternator pulley by hand.<BR>I just went to the ahooga message board and posted my problem. Got some answers but no real solution at the moment.<BR>I know Les and had some Emails with him but it seems that he is not at home at the moment because I got no answer in the last weeks.<BR>Perhaps I will change the fan belt with the belt in my fathers roadster. This car has a modern rubber belt with "teeth" but a normal old style generator. Perhaps this helps.<BR>More ideas?<P>Tom

  8. Bill~~<BR>My pulley has the same size and do you know how many watts (same like candle power?) your halogen bulbs take?<BR>MrBuick~~<BR>I ordered with the alternator at Macs the fan belt #A8620RE for $7,95 but I don't think that it slips.<P>Tom

  9. Hi Model A owners...and all others, of course.<BR>I have a modern alternator in my Model A. The ammeter shows a charging at higher engine speed (35 to 40 mph)with around 6 to 7 amps. When I turn the lights on then it shows a discharge with 2 amps or near to zero but not more even at 50 mph. The voltage with higher rpm is around 7.20 with lights off and drops down with lights on to 5.95 Volts. Battery is new.<BR>Who owns a Model A and can tell me if this is correct or if there is a problem and if yes, what for a problem.<P>Thomas<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

  10. Hmmm, this is not an easy one... You changed all important parts. <BR>I have only some few ideas, now. There is one cable from the coil to the distributor. This one gives current through the contacts to the coil to produce the spark. Have you checked this small cable and the terminals? The terminal must be very clean otherwise the current is too low. <BR>If you talk about the ignition timing. If the ignition is too much retarded the engine will start hard, also.<BR>Yes, and then you should make an compression test.<P>Tom

  11. I must say that I agree with Tod.<BR>Remember: All cars with 6 volts system worked fine as they were new. Why should we put now these modern 8 V or 6/12V batts in it? We should find the problems why a car starts hard with the 6 volt batt, so that we can use the original design batts.<P>Thomas

  12. We have some cars with a third brush were I can adjust the charging. For example: At our 1918 Hudson Super 6 the generator had an output around 8 volts. This is too much for a six 6 Volt battery. So I adjusted the 3rd brush that the generator has an output with 7.20 volts.<BR>The 2nd thing is that in the shop manuals for Model As stands that you can adjust the ampere output with this 3rd brush. I think this means that volt and amperes increase both.<BR>I think you should try it what will happen if you adjust your regulator. Check it out with an voltmeter at the battery terminals.<P>Thomas

  13. Chris~~<BR>My thoughts go in the same direction with the problem.<BR>I have no idea how the starter/generator works inside in all details. At the moment I don't want to disassamble it. In the main things I know it of course but for example I don't know what is turning in the starter when I push the button. If this thing is not turning the starter will not engage and turn the engine when I push the cluth.<BR>By the way: I don't like it also to hook up a 12 V to a 6 Volt system for start...It is always a risk.<P>Tom

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