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ThomasBorchers

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Posts posted by ThomasBorchers

  1. An electric starter would be a really good solution. I know for example a Mercedes Simplex here which has an electric starter.

    I would like to do this but don't know how. Normally I would put a cogwheel on the flywheel but there is so less space between flywheel and frame, that it is not possible.

    I thought about to use something like the old race cars without starter.

     

    Tom

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  2. @ Greg: Ah, thank you for the translation. It is always hard to find out such things.

     

    @ JFranklin: Good idea with a strong, healty friend who starts the engine for me. But I am afraid, that the one can not make all the tours with me then. 🙂

    The engine was perhaps rebuilt but I don't know when.

     

    @ Terry: No, it is not possible to hold the inlet valves open. Well, you mean that it could be possible to start on compression? I know this from my 1912 Cadilac and the Ford Model Ts.

     

    @ : Al: Of course... but I have just one bad photo. I can't find the better ones at the moment. I have to take one more of the engine.

     

    Tom

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  3. Hi,

    I have a question regarding starting a very old engine with „untimed inlet valves“.

    We own a 1901 LeAster rear entrance tonneau, fully restored, really nice car. But to turn the engine over is really hard. The last time I had 14 days problems with my back.

    The problem is that the inlet valves are not open by the camshaft like the outlet valves. They open by sucking when the pistons go down. ( sniffer valve?? I don’t know the correct translation ).

    So, has someone a tip / hint how I can start this engine easier as now?

    Kind regards

    Tom

  4. Thank you, I wanted to avoid sending the coil such a long distance. I have seen before that Skip is the first address for this kind of coils.

     

    In the meantime I made a test with ice spray and after I have cooled down the coil, the sparks were better again.

     

    I am trying here to find a company to restore the coil but it seems that no one wants to do this.

     

    Kind regards

     

    Thomas

  5. @ 38: I edited my post because I made a mistake. The resistance on primary side is 0.9 ohms on both sides. So this should be normal. Condensers are brand new made by Valeo with pig tail as you said.

     

    @19tom40: Well, what I found out in the meantime is, that after a longer time of running ( half an hour ) all sparks are really not the best. But on one side a little bit better but not the same as when the coil is cold.

    Such a tester is a good thing which I should buy because we have other classic cars.  Heat up function is important.

     

    So what I would like to try as a last test is to let the car run until the sparks are weak. Then remove the coil and cool it down as fast as possible. Then replace it and start again. So perhaps I see then if the spark is again better. If not… there is probably be an other problem and I think then I have to send the whole distributor to an US specialist.

     

    What I don’t understand is that the dwell is out of adjustment. I bought it as fully tested, cleaned up, new points… ok, seems not that it was the best work.

     

    Kind regards

     

    Thomas

  6. @38ShortopConv. : I understand, but the 30.5 is on the side where I have strong spark. But I understand that there is somewhere a problem in the distributor which I probably can't solve by myself. Is there a possibility to contact Gerry via mail? I am not really good over the phone in English.

    @Ken: Thank you for your offer. Could you test also the coil?

    Well, today I made another check with “hot” ignition coil. I checked the resistance of the coil but it is still 4,4 kiloOhms on both terminals. Cold or hot makes no difference. And also checked the voltage at the condensers and the coil input. No change if hot or cold. I checked the resistance of the ignition cables: No change if hot or cold.

    Or says it nothing that the resistance of the coil is the same if cold or hot? And the coil could be broken?

    But it is still the same, after warming up, the spark gets weaker and weaker. If everything is cold, it starts perfect, runs great but after a while… but I can’t imagine that this is a question of timing and synchronisation since the coil doesn’t change its resistance? I don’t understand this all, the distributor was tested as I ordered it and just 100miles or so on the street. Or is it the coil?

    I am out of ideas.

    Well, the problem is that I have to send the distributor to USA and it is a very long distance. I am afraid, that it could be lost over the long way. In worst case I would have another one but this is for restoration again with no coil.  But it seems that it is the only way to bring the car back on the street for a longer time, not for just 10minutes or so.

    Kind regards

    Thomas

     

  7. Thanks for all your hints.

     

    @ Bwatoe: Well, with cold engine it runs just on 4.0 volts with a strong spark. Heated up then not. And the left side works with 4.6 volts very well with cold and hot engine.  But I have tried what you said with the 6 Volt direct from the battery and then... I had a strong spark.

    @edinmass: No eletric fuel pump.

    @38ShortopConv.: I checked the spark just with the ignition cable to ground. So the plugs itselfs could not be the problem.

    @abelincoln: I have at the condenser terminal left 3.5 volts and right 3.1. On the terminals where the cables come from the restitors to the coil I have right 4.0 and left 4,6volts.

     

    The dwell angle is on the right side 35.5° and left 30.5° at all conditions ( cold or warm engine ).

     

    Today I have seen that when I have started the engine in cold condition that I have on all plugs ( ignition cables ) a strong spark. But after a while ( 10 to 15min ) all sparks on the right side getting weaker and weaker.

    As far as I understand now, works the right condenser and point set for the right side of the engine. And the right part of the coil set also for the right side with its pin close to the engine side on the first part of rotor.

    I have seen that the voltage at the coil and condenser is the same with good or weak spark. So actually… I would say that the right part of the ignition coil gets a problem when it heats up? Or something else which works just for the right side. And only with heated up engine. Or ist the 4 Volts which comes from the restistor too less?

     

    Well, I try so much as I can myself since here is no one who has experiences with these ignition systems. Perhaps we have here in the country 3 Lincoln V12.

     

    Small update from this evening: I changed the two input cables at the coil between the two terminals. Then I had 4.3 Volts. And at first I meant that now the spark on the right side was a bit better and on the left side weaker as before. But after next 10minutes the spark on the right side went weaker and now I had on both sides a weak spark. And tomorrow when everything is cooled down, I will have a perfect spark and good running engine. For 15 to 20 minutes….

     

     

    Kind regards

     

     

    Thomas

     

  8. OK, little update: I have measured the voltage at first at the terminals of the condensers at idle speed: left: 3.5 volts, right: 3.1 volts. Then at the terminal of the coil where the red leads on it: left 4.0, right 4.6.

    Then direct at the resistors: 4.1 and 4.6.  Input 6 Volts, Battery voltage is 6.2 volts ( generator is not charging, the next problem on my list ).

    And I checked it again: On the left side of motor I have a regularly, strong spark. On the right side there is mostly a spark but not always and it is not that strong as on the left side.

    So this means that I have a connection problem between the two resistors or one resistor has a too high resistance.

    And I have to go inside now, it is too hot outside… 🌞🌡️

  9. Thanks you bouth for all your hints. I will check out several things. As far as I can remember ( it is more than 10 years ago ) I have bought a rebuild distributor and coil at “Lincoln Motor Car Supply” in Orwell, Vermont. But we have driven the car just 200miles or so and never the ignition problem was really solved.

     

     

    Kind regards

     

     

    Thomas

  10. Hi Ken,

     

     

    thank you for the answer.

     

     

    Well, I have tried now 3 sets of condensers. And I tried it already as you said, changed from one side to the other but the problem is just always on the right side of the engine.

     

     

    Since I bought a restored distributor I would say, that the rotor should be ok. I have checked also if the plugs of the cables are clean and plugged in into the caps. The only thing I have not checked are the resisters because I didn’t know that they exist. I have found them and will try to check them. Do you now the value of the resistance?

    But if the points works crossover, actually I should have then a problem on both sides at 3 Zylinders of the engine?

     

     

    Thomas

  11. Hello,

     

    I have still a problem with the ignition of my 1947 Lincoln V12. On the left engine side I have a regularly spark on every spark plug. On the right side I would say I have 90% regularly sparks. So sometimes on every spark plug of the right side a spark is missing. I would perhaps say, 10times a spark, then no, again 10times, no one.

    I have a restored distributor, new coil, new condensers… and perhaps I don’t understand the ignition correct. If I see it correct, the two ignition points don’t work just for one side of the motor? So not the left one for the left side and the right one for the right side?

     

    Would be great if someone could help me.

     

    Kind regards

     

    Thomas

  12. Hi to all!

     

    After the winter I wanted to start our 1913 6-54 roadster, I charged the batteries, they have 6.36 volts each. So fully charged. Wenn I press the button between the seats, then depress the clutch pedal, the starter not start to turn the engine. So I checked the voltage at each of the batteries when I pressed the button ( the voltage drops just a bit 0.02 volts ) when I depress the clutch pedal to turn the starter, 3 batteries drop to 6.25 - 6.20 volts. But one of them... ( it is #4 ) starts to boil and the voltage rises to 16.5 volts! 

    Has someone an idea what the problem could be?

     

    Thomas

  13. <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:/DOKUME%7E1/THOMAS%7E1/LOKALE%7E1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} p.MsoAutoSig, li.MsoAutoSig, div.MsoAutoSig {margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} span.EmailFormatvorlage15 {mso-style-type:personal-compose; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; mso-hansi-font-family:Arial; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial; color:black;} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt; mso-header-margin:36.0pt; mso-footer-margin:36.0pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> It is an important point what rocketguy said. So it is also necessary to change the DOT 5 brake fluid after two years to avoid water drops in the brake system. This is the other side of the coin, using DOT 5.

    <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->

    @ Hurst Olds : To clean your brake lines I would use brake cleaner spray until pure brake cleaner comes out of the lines. Blow out than the lines with water and oil free air. You have to change all the rubber parts in the cylinders and the brake hoses. Than you should be sure to use a 100 % DOT 5 brake system.

    I still use DOT 3 or 4 in my cars and all 2 years I change the brake fluid. It is important after rebuilding brake cylinders, to use a brake cylinder paste when installing the new rubbers and pistons to avoid rust in the cylinders. And you should also press down the brake pedal several times, once or twice a month when your are not driving the car.

    Tom

  14. Hello !

    At first, I am sorry for my English. Sometimes it is ok and sometimes I make big mistakes. And know I am missing the spell check here. So perhaps there are now more mistakes... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

    .....

    The car has a battery ignition system like a Ford Model T and it is not so small as it looks like. It has a powerful 2 cylinder 12 hp engine with around 150 cui.

    The car has a normal clutch and brake pedal but a "funny" gas pedal. The movement is not freely as usual ( if you press a gas pedal down, it will come up again when you remove your feet from the pedal ), it snaps into several notches.

    Usually the rod of the gas pedal goes to the throttle valve and when you would move the throttle valve you would move the gas pedal. But here I have at the rods two springs and I can close the throttle valve with the rod without to move the gas pedal.

    I wonder when I try to start the car and the engine speed becomes lower because it has the load of the car, if the throttle valve starts to close and then the engine has to less power to start the car. I don?t know if you know what I mean ? It is not easy to explain technical things.

    To write something about this car is not easy, because we don?t know a lot of this car regarding the history. We just know that Aster built mainly engines for cars, motor cycles and so on and just a very few cars.

    Thanks for your help.

    Tom

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