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ThomasBorchers

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Posts posted by ThomasBorchers

  1. I am looking for very simple things like distributor rotor and points, good carb. or rebuilding kit. Red glass for the tail light and the bracket.<BR>A bit more difficult to find: New oversized (or undersized???) main bearings.<BR>Very hard to find: Seats! It is a Roadster with rumble seat. I ask for a friend.<P>Thanks.<BR>Tom

  2. Hi.<BR>We have the same at a 1914 La Licorne (french car). It could be that the leather has some slippery spots. Especially when the leather is older. It is often hard to have a smoth starting with leather clutches. Actually only when they are not often used and the leather ist not too old so that you have a good rough surface on the leather with no slippery spots. Rust could be a problem, too. <P>Thomas

  3. Thanks Rick.<BR>Actually I wanted to say "Had a 1956 Buick but this is totally different, of course." Forgot the "Buick". But it seems that I hit the spot regarding Cadillac 1956 and 1955. What you wrote is new for me and I had no idea that there is a difference. Good to know that. I must say that our 55 Cadillac shifts not very smooth but heard that Cadillac shift always smooth... I was now afraid that our Eldorado could have a problem because it shifts not very smooth. Now after your answer I know that it is ok.<BR>Well, with the fluid... here in German old car forum I got also no answer. Should ask an Oil Company or so. <BR>Thanks for your help again.<BR>Oh yes, do you have any ideas how large (in gallons) the fuel tank is?<P>Tom

  4. Hi Rick.<BR>Shifting up is good, down not soooo smooth. Don't know how good this automatic should shift. Had a 1956 but this is totally different, of course. The shifting of my 1958 Impala was not so smooth like at the Cadillac.<BR>Brake hose could be, I asked the previous owner what he restored. He was not sure about the rear brake hose... rolleyes.gif" border="0 .<BR>I got a call from my father and he said that brakes are better now but not perfect. The car stood still since 10 months but once a week I pushed the brake pedal to avoid damages. The problem with the brakes do we have since we own the car. 3 years.<BR>Wedding tour was great! The couple liked it very much. Especially the 50s music from CD.<BR>Rick, can you explain what the differences are between Type A, D and E for the ATF?<P>Tom<p>[ 08-10-2001: Message edited by: ThomasBorchers ]

  5. Now the engine stood still since 5 1/2 hours at around 68°c outside temp. and I checked the level again. Shows now full. confused.gif" border="0<BR>Yes, Rick nice car. We have a bit problems with the brakes. All is restored but the brakes are not immediatly free after stopping. Brake shoe adjustment is correct. frown.gif" border="0<P>Tom<p>[ 08-09-2001: Message edited by: ThomasBorchers ]

  6. Hello Rick.<BR>Thanks for the information.<BR>Well, I checked the level with cold transmission. I let run the engine for 5 minutes and 2 minutes at around 800 rpm. I checked the level at idle speed and it was just above the "empty" mark. After driving 14 miles I did it again and now it was just above the "full" mark.<BR>What would you say what I should do? Refill or not?<P>Tom

  7. Hello you all.<BR>I have to check the fluid level of the hydramatic of my 1955 Cadillac. I have the shop manual but I can't see if I have to check it with cold or hot fluid. Just one note: Don't overfill the transmission. Otherwise the fluid will foam when fluid is hot.<BR>Actually this means to check with cold fluid?<BR>They write: Use Type "A" Fluid. I can get only type "D". Is this the same but only a modern version of the type A and can I take it?<BR>Thanks in advance. Tomorrow we have to make a wedding tour with the car .<P>Tom

  8. Perhaps the water holes in the engine block are clogged with calcium carbonate which not allows the water to flow complete through the engine. <BR>That the radiator is empty after 10 sec. means not that all fins in the radiator are free.<BR>Normally hot temperatures are not really a problem. I own a 1930 Buick with the large engine and a 1912 Cadillac. I never had problems with over heating even in city traffic and up to 90°. Last tour with the Buick I had the radiator shutter just 75 % opened and it went not hotter than 180° even in low traffic. Normal driving temp was 160° (actually too cold). Outside temp was 90°.<BR>So I think there is a technical problem at your car. No questions of the age of these cars.<P>Tom

  9. I don't know it exactly but in the early years of the automobiles it is true, that the identification went over the engine number. Especially during the brass era. As VIN the title of my 1930 Buick shows the engine number and not the frame oder body number. The title of my 1956 shows as the VIN the serial number of the car.<BR>So it could be that the numbers in the titles are the engine numbers.<P>Tom

  10. Hello you all.<BR>Who has an idea whe I could get komplete seats for a 1934 Chevrolet Six Roadster? Is there a chance to find them?<BR>Looking also for an online spare parts dealer for these cars.<BR>Thanks in advance.<P>Tom<p>[ 08-03-2001: Message edited by: ThomasBorchers ]

  11. Hi Eric.<BR>Thanks for the tip. Got this email some couple of days ago. There was an MS DOS file attached. It ends with .doc.pti or so. First I thought it was a Word file. <BR>I erased it.<P>Tom<p>[ 07-28-2001: Message edited by: ThomasBorchers ]

  12. Another solution for your problem could be a faulty condenser. If you have the original distributor with the original condenser, it is often a problem with a destroyed condenser by overheating through the engine.<BR>Try it with a new one. <P>Tom

  13. Hi Rick.<BR>Thanks for the tip.<BR>One of the two holes for the large screws is broken of so at the moment the motor is just attached at the car with one screw . One small thread is broken also and as far as I know the wiper motor hasn't run for more than 50 years.<P>Tom<p>[ 07-12-2001: Message edited by: ThomasBorchers ]

  14. There are a lot of new (not original) A-Horns around and mostly you can adjust them like this: Remove the front cover with the five or six small screws and nuts. Be careful that the diaphragm doesn't drop on the floor. In the diaphragm is a screw. If you turn it a bit in it should hit the thing at the motor (ratchet) which produces the sound. Often it takes a bit time to set these horns because you can only adjust them if you have removed the front cover. <BR>The original horns will be adjusted behind the back cover. Lose the screw and remove the cover. Near to the center you can find an adjusting screw. Push the horn button and turn this screw to the left or right until your here the ahaooogh! Sometimes the modern A-Horns have a nut at this place but normally you can't adjust them there. <BR>If the motor is spinning you should be able to adjust the horn.<BR>Good luck!<P>Tom

  15. Hello you all.<BR>I have a not working Trico Wiper Motor at my 1930 Buick. The housing is in a bad condition so I would like to buy a new one.<BR>Do you have any ideas where I could get such a vacuum wiper motor for this car and what could be the price?<BR>Thanks in advance<P>Tom

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