1930 Kram66
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Posts posted by 1930 Kram66
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18 minutes ago, keiser31 said:
I drove one once. It rode and handled like a lumber wagon. I disliked the tiny opening part of the door window. Cool cars, though.
I had a customer who owned one and I was the lucky auto electrician that got to work on it, trying to get at the wiring under the dash with the high door sill really tested my back.
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Today I decided to take a break from body work and have a go at making a new connection for one of the headlights. I was missing the part that the wires go in to, only had the outer bayonet housing that plugs into the rear of the headlight bucket. Found some 16mm diameter nylon rod that fitted inside the outer bayonet housing, I drilled two holes in the nylon to allow the wires to push through and used solder to make contact points. I also filed a locating slot in the side of the nylon so it wont rotate inside the outer bayonet housing. That went so well I also replaced the 90 year old brittle and cracked internal wiring and cleaned up the socket for the globe inside the headlight as well. Plugged it all together and by some miracle it worked.
Cheers Mark
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Nice job on the overdrive.
You will notice a great improvement in driveability of your car, it wont sound so busy going 60-70 km/h. Even my wife noticed the difference 😀. I installed mine on Chrysler 66 [4.7 -1 diff]
Cheers Mark
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Hi
Over the years I have owned/restored three Chryslers - one 65 sedan a 66 roadster and a 66 tourer( my current project, do not have the first two now)
All had honey comb radiators. Looking in my 66 Instruction book under cooling system it states the following- "The radiator is of the cellular type".
Here is a factory photo of the front of a 66 hopefully you can see it is a honeycomb type. I would be very confident that the 65 would be the same.
Sorry I dont have any photos of a 65 but I am pretty sure, well at least here in Australia model 65 and 66 cars came originally with honeycomb radiators.
Hope this helps cheers Mark
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Firstly apologises to all the upholsterers out there. 😁
Today I began the steep learning curve of DIY car upholstery. I had a go at making the fender/mudguard welting/piping. I used a very flexible tonneau cover material and for the core a 5mm diameter Macrame cord.[its 90% cotton 10% polyester] I fitted a trial one to see what it looked like on the car with a bit of fine tuning it should be OK.
Cheers Mark
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I had the same problem with my oil pressure gauge [1930 66]. I found if you carefully hold the gauge housing and with the correct size spanner slightly turn the brass fitting that the oil line fits into on the back of the gauge housing you can re-set the needle rest position. I think the problem is caused if when fitting or removing the oil line from the back of the gauge to much force is applied the outer fitting. Also if your very patient you can remove the olive that is soldered on to the oil feed line.
Cheers Mark
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Well today, I did something I have been putting off for some time now- I cut a big chunk out of some 91 year old metal - who does not love doing that.😀 I removed a previous repair and welded in a patch panel retrieved from a very bugger up guard. Turned out fairly decent for someone learning about welding and panel work from watching youtube videos.
Cheers Mark
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Today, first day of the new year - best wishes to all from down under 😊 Managed two jobs on my 1930 66 Chrysler, got the instrument panel trail fitted, so I made up the wiring required for the dash and finished the wiring from the engine. BTW made my own wiring harness with correct wire colours and also added an extra fuse holder for turn signal lamps. Also started making trim panels to cover the openings in the floor boards around the pedals, gear stick and handbrake lever.
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Today I made a patch piece for the front right guard on my 1930 Chrysler 66 Tourer, I think it came out decent considering I have no idea what I am doing most of the time.😀
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14 hours ago, 31Jalopy said:
great ! that is the seat back. I have a wood shop and can build this for the seat. do you have dimensions for these parts looks like 2X material strong construction is nice. It looks like you had someone make the iron brackets. How did you know all of this? Did you have the original pieces? The bottom must be just the springs and cushioning over that wood platform. I have the springs. How did you get the bends in the seat back? Thanks for everything . It makes working on this less stressful.
Sorry do not have any measurements of the seat frames. You will have to make them suit your car. Luckily I had the metal pieces for the seat, the hinges are from the hardware shop. I did not have any wood to make patterns from for ANYTHING on my car. All the wood was rotted away [read eaten by termites] I did a lot of research and found other guys that had the same car as me. They graciously let me measure things and take lots of pictures and video of their cars. Also I made my own patterns/ templates from plywood or any rubbish wood I could find and mocked up each part of the wooden frame when I was happy I then used my templates to cut out the pieces from Oak. I spent about 12months on just the wood work. First 2 pictures are original wood that I copied my seat frames from. Look closely in second picture you will see a small 6" ruler.
Next 2 are my nearly finished frame and the last is what I started with. Good luck with your project. BTW my car had a locally built body [Holden] here in Australia. These pictures are just to give you a idea of what wooden framed cars look like without the metal panels, yours will likely be different. Cheers Mark
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These may help..... at least give you some ideas.
from a 1930 Chrysler 66 roadster I restored 15 years ago.
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G'day This request for help is directed to my fellow Aussie old car guys. No offence intended to the rest of the world😊
I have two of these for the rear split bumpers [rear mounted spare] I just need one for the front bar. Hoping someone might have a spare they are willing to part with.
Any info appreciated Thanks in advance...... Cheers Mark
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1 hour ago, lozrocks said:
I run a blanking disc in my 1929 '75'. I have found that it makes absolutely no difference to running temperature.
When I first put my car on the road I fitted (what I thought) a brass welsh plug behind the water pump. The engine was fitted with one when I dismantled it. The welsh plug rusted out. (so much for supposedly being brass) I ran the car for about ten years without one. On the last rebuild I fitted a stainless steel plug. Its been running fine since then. But I don't see any difference in running temperature.
Thank you for your reply
Well, that is very interesting, thanks for sharing this information here.
This helps me out tremendously with moving forward on my project.
Cheers
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11 hours ago, $um Fun said:
I believe the ledge is a register for the core to sit aligned during the casting process.
Good point.
Must admit have not considered that possibility. Thank you
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16 hours ago, Tim Wolfe said:
I have two Chrysler 218.6 engines and they do not have a plate behind the pump.
Thank you for your reply.
That has been my observation on three of these engines I have seen without the water pump in place. [ I suppose its feasible to imagine the possibility of it just corroding away?????]
So for my peace of mind could I ask this ......
Are you able to drive reasonably long distances [say at least 60km 35miles] in various traffic and road conditions [ie slow moving, steep hills etc] in the heat of summer without any overheating issues .
As I mentioned in my first post, a part was [then at least 20years ago] being made for these engines . At that time the maker / seller claimed that these engines would overheat without it. Why would some one go to this much effort if its not required?
I realize there are many causes of engines to overheat, I am just trying to rule this possibility out before I install my pump and radiator etc. As it would be a relatively simple job at present.
Cheers
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Good news - nice work on your part !
Agreed - second shop sounds much better.
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40amps!!! no wonder those brushes didn't look happy. 😊
Pleased that you have established that you can adjust the charge rate down. Suggest having the rebuilder replace the wear and tear items and check the windings [insulation] for any damage.
BTW I have really enjoyed following along with your project through your posts - it must take a lot of your time - its appreciated.
A very big Thank you.
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Dont try polarizing the generator .... its working. By all means check to see if you can adjust your charge rate -might be to high.
Try moving the third brush in the opposite direction to armature rotation to see if your ammeter reading decreases - with the lights on it should be no higher than 12-15 amps.
With no load maybe 3-5amps.
If you cant adjust the charge rate easily you have a problem in the field coils.
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It is normal to see a SMALL amount of arcing at the brushes.... That said it looks like your brushes are not happy.
In the olden days -1970s when generators were still common , while bench testing them we would use a çom-stick to help bed the brushes in to the newly machined and undercut commutator. It was a slightly abrasive material, it looked like a stick of chalk. I have not seen it around for at least 30 years. While the generator was spinning you would apply it to the commutator and you immediately noticed a huge reduction in arcing at the brushes. At a pinch chalk would probably work, could be worth a try just to see if that helps . From your photo of the brushes in the rebuilt generator the edge of the brush were it contacts the commutator looks pretty rough - Maybe new brushes should have been fitted anyway I would check with the rebuilder about that.
Cheers
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That is correct.
The old tin can flasher units flashed much quicker if the load was not correct. ie blown/ wrong globe, wiring fault etc.
Some modern units are variable load so they do not necessarily change their flash rate if a fault occurs.
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Correct- Though the cylinder does not need to be completely full just enough to allow the function to operate , the gauge above the filter monitor should indicate the approximate level of gas in the cylinder. ie in the green section.
From memory the carrier that the bottle sits on had a load cell arrangement . ie if not enough gas [weight] it would not allow the recycling function to be switched on.
Here in Australia the Federal government banned the use of R12 around 1996 and we switched to R134a over a period of time after that. Up until about 1998 we were allowed to reclaim and recycle R12. Then it was banned. Are you guys still allowed to use R12? Also here there were no restrictions at that time on what vehicle you used the reclaimed gas. In my experience most cars came in when they were already too low in gas to reclaim a decent amount of gas. So it took a lot cars to get a amount to recycle . Also cars that suffered compressor failure had all sorts of things that would contaminate the gas so it was best not to let that gas into the recovery machine.
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I used to own and use one of these in the 90s.
You generally use them in conjunction with a regular charging station connected to the vehicles A/C system.
When operating in recovery mode I would take the yellow hose from the charging station vacuum pump and connect it to the port on the recovery machine [near the red handled valve in your picture] then slowly open the centre hand wheel on the charging station to allow refrigerant to flow from the vehicle through the charging station and into the recovery unit. Then press the start switch and let it run. That would take some time depending on how much gas was in the vehicles system. When the pressure in the vehicles system was low enough the machine would stop.
To operate in recycle mode it requires a reasonable amount of reclaimed gas in its own storage tank to allow it to operate in that mode - ie weight
In recycle mode you do not need to have it connected to anything it will just circulate the gas within itself. From memory the filters needed to be changed frequently .
Hope this is helpful.
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That is correct.... for some flasher units.
There are 3 terminal flasher units available at parts shops that have the terminals marked as follows... 49 , 49a and 31 - being ground. these were used in mainly European design vehicles in the 80s and 90s.
These little buggers tripped up a lot of blokes trying to fix a flasher problem so check the terminal markings before connecting any wires.
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Re reversing wires to flasher unit.
In general electronic type flasher units are very much polarity conscious and are made for negative grounded systems unless otherwise stated on side of unit.
They come in a few different terminal configurations eg some 3 terminal flasher units require a ground to one terminal operate correctly.
So not knowing what type of flasher unit you have - 2 wire or 3 wire for the moment it might be prudent not to try reversing the wires .
From my experience if you change to supply and load wires on say a 2 wire type some units will work fine, while others wont flash or work at all. They are not damaged if you get the wires around the wrong way- they just dont work.
Sorry for any confusion on this.
What are you working on right now?
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Today I made a headlight plug for my Chrysler. Its amazing what you can make with a couple of small nails a bit of nylon rod and steel tubing out of the scrap bin.😁
Just have to knurl the rear part of the housing that protrudes out of the headlight bucket, that will have to wait until I go to work, no lathe at home.
cheers Mark