1930 Kram66
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Posts posted by 1930 Kram66
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Re reversing wires to flasher unit.
In general electronic type flasher units are very much polarity conscious and are made for negative grounded systems unless otherwise stated on side of unit.
They come in a few different terminal configurations eg some 3 terminal flasher units require a ground to one terminal operate correctly.
So not knowing what type of flasher unit you have - 2 wire or 3 wire for the moment it might be prudent not to try reversing the wires .
From my experience if you change to supply and load wires on say a 2 wire type some units will work fine, while others wont flash or work at all. They are not damaged if you get the wires around the wrong way- they just dont work.
Sorry for any confusion on this.
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Hi J Mc
A few thoughts on your problem .
Is the new flasher unit a thermal [old school type] or a modern électronic type. If it is the latter type it may not work correctly on a positive earth system. {You could try reversing the supply and load wires to the flasher unit and see what effect that has]. Maybe others have had experience with electronic flasher units on positive earth systems.
Also what wattage globes are you running in you flashers at least 18 or 21 watt? Do the flashers only flash to fast with the motor running? if this is the case maybe the charge rate is to high.
Cheers
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Thanks for your quick reply
Yes there is a hole you can stick your finger in .
it goes into the water jacket just next to #1 cylinder also it goes into the cylinder head as well.
Sorry, I should have mentioned that small detail in my original post.
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So maybe some more information is needed to help someone answer or at least shed some light on my question. Over 20years ago i knew a then 80 something year old mechanic at that time he was still actively working on cars. He started his trade at a Chrysler dealership in Sydney in the late thirties. He was helping me with the rebuild of a Chrysler 65 engine. I would go to his shop and help with bits and pieces on the rebuild after I finished work. During one of these sessions he made a comment that has stuck in my mind all these years - he thought [maybe mistakenly] that the water pump was blocked off from the water jacket. I would really appreciate any thoughts or opinions as to the possibility of this being correct or completely wrong as the case may be. Maybe someone that has recently overhauled this type of engine may have some thoughts.
PS If I am giving this way to much thought could in the words of Jim Carey somebody stop me 😀
BTW The only silly question is the question not asked .
Thanks
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This maybe a silly question but going to ask anyway.
Is a thin metal disc required behind the water pump impeller on these early Chrysler motors?
Reason I ask , there is a machined recess in the block casting immediately behind where the water pump impeller runs. see photos
It looks like something should be there to separate the water pump from the water jacket.
Also here in Australia 15-20 years ago there was a chap making and selling a stainless steel blanking disc at swap meets etc.
I would like to know for sure before I install my water pump.
Thank you
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A few thoughts;
As your 29 Dodge originally came without a fuse maybe the engineers did not think one was needed [ Trying to protect all circuits with one fuse has it own set of challenges]
Running the cables in metal conduit offers the wiring a lot of protection from abrasive damage etc. little chance of exposed wires shorting out.
Has your vehicle been rewired or is it the original 90 year old wires ?
Looking at the second wiring diagram the fuse block is in the main feed line therefore all current flows through this including charging current from the generator back to the battery.
Generally the fuse block would be placed in the circuit that powers the lights and horn, the generator /cut out would have its own circuit not fused.
Maybe a well placed battery isolation switch that can be easily accessed would be a good thing to do.
Also if you suspect the horn as being the cause of the fuse blowing just fit a temporary fuse in the power supply to the horn [ as close to the horn as possible]
If this fuse blows it confirms the horn is causing the problem.
Good luck
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Hi
Does the fuse you placed in the circuit only blow when you operate the horn?
Also where in the circuit did you place the fuse?
As to what size fuse to use it depends on what and how many circuits you are trying to protect and how much current flows through those circuits when they are operating at the same time.
IE driving with the lights on and blowing the horn at the same time - the combined current draw may be more than 15 amps.
If you are only using one fuse to protect everything you need to know the total normal combined current draw of the circuit /s you are trying to protect.
Then you will know what size fuse is required.
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Hi
Very easy to test a sender unit.
Its just a variable resistor - usually connecting the gauge wire to ground via the sender resistance coil.
All you need is a Ohm meter. Here's how-
Just connect one lead of the Ohm meter to the centre terminal of the sender unit and touch the other test lead to somewhere on the metal case of the sender.
You should see a reading on your meter that changes as you move the float arm up and down.
Typical readings may be around 10ohms for full to 150ohms empty . These values may not be correct for your sender they are a guide only.
If you cant get any readings you have an open circuit in the sender unit.
Also when testing make sure your test points on the sender are clean so that you get accurate readings.
Good luck
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Hi
Is that the outer axle seal or the pinion seal ? [ they look very similar]
On the seal pictured it looks like maybe a modern type seal has been fitted already. I might be mistaken but I dont recall seeing a gaiter spring in my seals, pinion or axle.
On my 66 the seals had a cork/leather material in them.
NOS seals come up from time to time [usually the seal material is hard and brittle]
Iam not aware of a new replacement being available. [maybe someone else might know]
Perhaps you could carefully ground the rivets and punch them out to separate the inner and outer metal pieces.
After some measuring etc you might be able to fit a modern type seal in and reassemble .
Also if your car has wood spoke wheels check the part of the hub that goes in the outer axle seal, the hub usually wears out as well causing diff oil to get into the brakes.
The pinon shaft also wears, this can be repaired/sleeved .
cheers
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5 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:
Happy Fathers Day to all of Aussie dads that are on these forums
May your day be full of Love,Joy and Happiness
Nicely said.
My two eldest kids and grand kids called in this morning.
The boss even let me work on the car after lunch [ yippee ] does not get any better!
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You might want to check that the relationship between the new style QH globe and the reflector is the same as for the old globe. [ distance from the base of reflector to the filament position in the globe.]
The reflector and globe holder are designed to position the filament of the globe correctly in relation to the reflector there by collecting and focusing the light generated by the globes filament.
Hope this helps
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Thanks John , for going to the effort of posting this useful information on this forum.
I know it will help others with their colour choices .
I am driving my wife mad at the moment deciding on colours for my 66 Tourer. it will definitely help me out.
Once again thank you.
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3 minutes ago, 1930 Kram66 said:
Hi Ojh
Have you considered carefully pulling the electrical section of the sender apart to allow you to measure the resistance of the winding.
If you are lucky and get the thing apart, you might see wear marks on the coil made by the contact on the float arm rubbing on the winding .
If this is the case you should be able to get your resistance values by probing the winding and making note of the position of the float arm contact point on the winding at full and empty .
You would need to place one ohm meter lead on the earthed end of the coil and take your readings by sliding the other probe along the coil , the value should change as you move along the winding.
What could possibly go wrong ,might be worth a shot.
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Hi Ojh
Have you considered carefully pulling the electrical section of the sender apart to allow you to measure the resistance of the winding.
If you are lucky and get the thing apart, you might see wear marks on the coil made by the contact on the float arm rubbing on the winding .
If this is the case you should be able to get your resistance values by probing the winding and making note of the position of the float arm contact point on the winding at full and empty .
You would need to place one ohm meter lead on the earthed end of the coil and take your readings by sliding the other probe along the coil , the value should change as you move along the winding.
What could possibly go wrong ,might be worth a shot.
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VDO make a gizmo to test fuel gauges called a Gauge Check Model #105-001.
Its a 0-300 ohm variable resistor with a ohm value scale on the front face.
You simply connect it to the sender terminal of the gauge with the gauge powered and turn the knob to manually operate the gauge ,reading the ohm values at full, half and empty.
Hope this helps
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Hi all, new guys first question!
Currently I am restoring a 1930 66 Tourer #H121SY with an Australian built Holden body.
My question is, does anyone know what color /patterns were on the instrument trim panel?
There seems to be a few different treatment out there.
In sales literature they say "New and attractive instrument panel smartly done in black and silver"
The outward side of my instrument panel was very rusted, however the rear side which is sandwiched between the gauge panel and front panel
had what appeared to be white/silver paint.
Hoping the collective wisdom of the forum can shed some light
Thanks
![Chrysler complete July 14th 2007 022[215].jpg](//content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2020_08/1932971409_ChryslercompleteJuly14th2007022215.jpg.3fda7b12164a8b29690c41b133aff08b.jpg)
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Thanks mate
That problem is ancient history now.
I think I still have that 65 head .
I can check on the weekend as it is at another location.
It is of no use to me now and if it can help you out let me know.
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Central coast NSW
1 hour north of Sydney.
This is my first forum so be gentle with me.
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Hi Sasha39, from memory i recall removing 4 to 5 mm from the boss.
Yes, ended up being a cracked block [bugger] Nothing that time and money could not fix.
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Yes a 65 head will fit on a 66 block and vice versa
The only difference may be spark plug hole diameter [ larger spark plugs 18mm on most 65s v 14 mm in a 66 head] and the mounting boss height for the distributor.
I had to machine down the boss to allow the distributor shaft to engage the drive slot in the oil pump.
How do I know this? I was chasing an overheating problem and suspected a cracked head.
Good news was the car went just as good with the 65 head.
Bad news it didnt solve the problem.
,Hope this helps
![Chrysler complete July 14th 2007 022[215].jpg](http://content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2020_08/1932971409_ChryslercompleteJuly14th2007022215.jpg.3fda7b12164a8b29690c41b133aff08b.jpg)
Changed out the turn signal flasher and now.....
in Technical
Posted
That is correct.... for some flasher units.
There are 3 terminal flasher units available at parts shops that have the terminals marked as follows... 49 , 49a and 31 - being ground. these were used in mainly European design vehicles in the 80s and 90s.
These little buggers tripped up a lot of blokes trying to fix a flasher problem so check the terminal markings before connecting any wires.