Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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Does anyone know the backstory/history on the use of greens lens for brake/stop lens? I have seen them for sale and often wondered about them. Now that I have an era tail light with that colored lens for brake/stop (need to find a red replacement), wondering why a color that means go, and has for a long time, would have been used? I did an internet search and didn't find anything.
I have come across them more than a few times on eBay, not something modern, but 1920s (30's?) era tail lamps with the green lens. Either molded with the word stop on it, or with the cutout behind it. These can be stand-alone with just the word stop or combination with red tail light green brake light.
Here is one sample; https://www.ebay.com/itm/115101253907?h ... SwUqthmTYJ
This one shows it better;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174941515256?h ... Sw8CBhRRiC -
It is a single cylinder 1909 Brush.
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Couple of 4' LED lights for the shop, so I can see to work on my cars! The florescents in there now, been on all day and still have not lit up!
Only 30f here in Portland Oregon.
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Well now, here is a real 3/4 ton (F2 1948), none of your fancy AC soft riding extended cabs for me!
Been in the family from day one and still have it.
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If you are asking about manifold gaskets, like around the exhaust, don't know if they can be saved. The material used between the layers of copper, at this point, might be pretty crispy as would the copper or steel jacket. There are high heat materials you can buy at auto parts stores or online. They are a layered heat-resistant material over a metal substrate. You would cut or make your own gasket. I have done this a few times, esp for gaskets that are not easily found or are costly.
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STEM studies were included in the High School when it was remodeled in the community I live in here in North Portland.
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Wayne, re capacitance values, I don't think that has changed and still gets touched on sometimes. But in the plug and play world, not as easy to even fine coil or capacitor values.
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It would not have a head to pull.
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Even a 6 volt system uses a resistor, either built in or outside.
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You might go back and edit your title, would help get more eyes on it.
Like the car.
Oh! There is a Brush forum way down the list; https://forums.aaca.org/forum/126-brush-automobiles/
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There is also a Dodge Brothers section way down below.
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That is really close to the VW logo.
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Are you looking for this wrench to add to your collection or use? If for use, even Harbor Freight sells a long handled ratchet. Doing a quick search on eBay, I don't see any open type, but there are a number of early long handle ratchets. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=vintage+craftsman+ratchet+long+handle&_sacat=0
Maybe change your search parameters, because as other have said, a breaker bar does not have a ratchet head on them. My Woodbury and Company (Portland Oregon around 1962) catalog shows Proto tool listing for 1/2 type having a handle around 15" (other brands they sold were about the same) for long handled ratchets. The Craftsman might be in that same ballpark length. I did not see them calling anything but ratchet tool, ratchet head with the option to buy different length handles.
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Link in my post above.
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That area around the filler hole that looks like there would have been a pad, would have been used on a 1929 4 door, like the town sedan. It would be the same tank as the 1928-29. The 1929 4 door models, the tank was under a cowling and used a different hood.
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1928-29
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From the photo, the thread looks to course for Model T.
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To me it looks like Ford Model A with plate added to the rear for other application. The only thing that makes me not sure, is that bump out with the divots on the one side.
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Maybe you can see gas in the sediment bowl, but is it actually getting into the carburetor? The float valve could be stuck shut. If the carburetor has a drain on it, open and check for sure. Another thing, could have stuck valves. Pull the plugs and check compression.
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I got it wrong.
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https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/dodge/unspecified/2545862.html
It is also being talked about on Facebook, Dodge Brothers Motor Car page; (1) Dodge Brothers Motor Cars
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On 12/16/2021 at 5:55 AM, 8E45E said:
There is White Post in VA who does complete rebuilds: https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/
Craig
I used them many years ago to resleeve a Morris Minor master cylinder. So they have been at it for a while.
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Why would you paint them after installing, anyway? Wouldn't they have been cad plated or such?
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My logic says the 2ed photo. As the door opens, the rubber stop would stay more or less flat against the door.
Only 30f here in Portland Oregon. 
Need advice on stripping down chassis
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted · Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
I have pulled down three. I will try to answer to the best of my experience. Start off by removing both set screws and retaining clips from the yoke. Next step is what I did but may not be needed. Remove the short shaft on the right. The yoke needs to slide over to the right, so the key on the long shaft side can be accessed between the housing and yoke. Remove the key. Loosen the set screw on the collar. Using the lever, you should be able to work the shaft out.