Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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The Filling Station Chevrolet parts
Do a little price shopping on parts and labor cost, I know darn well if you can turn a wrench and know something about rebuilding engines you could do the work for a lot less then suggested above and maybe learn some new skills in the process. Think about how much you are going to use the car; Few hundred or less miles or few thousand miles a year? Are you going on cross country tours or just putting around the neighborhood? Even if you sold it later, chances are the next owner would not be driving a major miles ether.
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For ignition key here is an eBay seller that I have bought from. You may not get a key with DB as part of the number, but as long as it has the same number it should fit;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383693133294?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
There are other sellers on eBay, some with much higher prices but different numbers. The "DB" on the key before the number is nice but not necessary. Like the Ford Model T keys, there were only X number of tumblers used, so that key number would fit other cars with the same number.
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The Mechanics' Instruction Manual calls for Medium Body Cup Grease in the housing every 2000 miles.
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Is it grease or lube? The u-joint housing gets filled with grease and it could be leaking. For now, buy a drip pan or two.
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10 hours ago, MCELLIOTT1957 said:
Thank you for your response. I can still shift it ,so the lock on the transmission is unlocked. The locksmith that I took the ignition switch to, can read some part of the number that is stamped on the ignition cover plate and is doing what he can to make the correct one. Also, do you know what color the engine is supposed to be? I keep seeing grayish colors, greenish colors, black colors. I think I am going to aim for the grayish color for the most part and with the hopes that the brass and copper colors of the small parts would stand out. Just curious though of what it was or is supposed to be.
The ignition key number is not on the plate, it is right next to the slot on the outside face of the tumbler. More then likely, like almost 100% it is a Clum switch.
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Positive ground 12 volts. For the ignition key, you just needed to look at the tumbler and number stamped on it (if it could be read). There are a number of sellers on eBay selling DB keys.
"the oil simply drained into the motor???" On some filters, yes the oil can drain back into the engine then was refilled on start up. If you want to prime the system and pump, take off that hex cap behind the water pump and remove the ball check and spring to prime. Chances are at this point, the cork gasket under the lid of the oil filter is dried out and will need to be replaced along with the filter.
Unless the transmission is now locked, maybe not worry about it at this point.
At some point I am going to add a filter to my 1920.
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2 hours ago, MikeC5 said:
Are you sure you have the clutch lever adjusted properly? It sounds as if the clutch is not releasing fully. The thicker oil helps to drag along the layshaft when in 3rd gear (which helps if you try to downshift without grinding from 3rd to 2nd). I wouldn't expect it to make that much difference when the car is not moving (putting it in gear with clutch applied).
That and maybe the idle is set too high.
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Wrist pins are held in place with clamp bolts, same as Ford Model T. Ether the bolt was left out or came loose allowing the pin to slide.
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Might also want to grind a hollow ground or gun smithing tip screwdriver to fit the slot.
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When you disassemble to install be sure to turn the rings and bolts around on that bottom one. The nuts face the rear with the head of bolt and slots facing the front.
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He also has it posted on; https://www.facebook.com/groups/dodgebros/
In case he does not see this posting.
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Big thanks for posting the pages, more to add to my file and reading.
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Great and thanks for the update.
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The rings I have set aside for him have a factory forging/drawing number of 5058 but the cut above show a part number of 5222. Which could be a carry over from working with Ford. Most all the parts on a Model T have a different number on them then the parts catalog.
At what car number does the master parts list show the new style(5223) started and do the foot notes show the newer style as an in service replacement for the earlier cars? When the newer style was introduced it may have had brass bushings which were changed to steel at some point, so would only require 1 part number change. For example adding a "B" to the number.
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Plus there is a front and back if it is like that later ones I have. The front (transmission side) on mine are slotted to keep the head of the bolt from turning. I will have to look at mine, but think each section might have a different number on it.
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I have 3 U-joints still on transmissions but are a bit later came off 1920 and 21 engines. How loose are the bushings on yours? Do you need the whole assemble or just the ring? There is another guy looking for just the splinted piece that mounts to the transmission output shaft. I could contact him also and sell just the part he needs and sell the ring
adding;
The bushings on the ones I have are steel. The OD of the bushing is approx 1.126. If your bushings are good, you could clean up the one, and the rings/clamps should work let me know.
Mark
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See your post on Facebook. I think this motor is older then 1916 if that is the correct number. I posted the chart from the Dodge Brothers club there. You might clean the area where the number is and add a photo of it.
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Most of the Ford Model T and A parts suppliers and well as many others carry the 600W lube.
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If the rims have the split across them, you should also install rim flaps, NOT rim liners. The rim flaps cradle the tube and keep it from getting pinched in the split. The tires may already have them installed. They really are protected inside the tires so if installed should still be good. If you are unsure how to use the rim jack, do a search of "mtfca; rim jack".
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I could go out and check the area that is broke out in one of my cylinders on a 22 block, but that would not really tell you anything. Some areas could be thicker/thinner from the get go. Any core shift when pouring the block can change that too. When the inside of the block was cast they used a sand mold and pretty sure so was the outside. Add in 90-100+ years of rust. What I think happened, water got in the cylinder thru open valve, had a really bad freeze and pushed the side out. Engine does turn over. LOL for what that is worth, I don't know.
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he got his answers on one of the other pages.
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The motor number is not the serial number, just so you know. The serial number should be on the frame cross member just under the floor board on the right side under your heel. There might be a tag on the front floorboards also. The master parts list is also a great way to find what is needed/correct for your car. Dodge did not go by month and year, they listed when a change was made by the cars serial numbers.
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My 1941 copyright Series WD owners manual only talks about the jack being supplied and that is the section on how to remove the wheels. So there may not be a list of supplied tools in them. The manual is what came with my 1946 1 ton when I got it in 1973 or 74.
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If you have a copy of the Mechanics' Instruction Manual, there is a section on clutch adjustment. Things suggested are; warped disk from over heating, pins they slide on need replacing, lack of lube where needed and adjusting the link.
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1923 Chevy overheating.
in Technical
Posted
Plugged radiator or block. Not using the timing lever correct. Carb set too lean. Nice looking car!