Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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A set would be 4, 5 if you include the spare. Maybe saying how many wheels you are selling would help move them. If more than one, show a photo of the group.
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I don't see a lot of oil coming out between the block and guides on my well worn 21 engine. I think the groove is there for oil control.
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The Chevrolet maybe has better parts supplies or cost of replacement parts? More GM products sold, so more exposure?
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Unless you are going to be driving at high speeds and long distance to and from, why not just use the bearings you have now, if you have them, for the parade at least if you can't source them right away?
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For Chevrolet specific questions I would suggest VCCA. They did not use torque specifications back in those days. Spray the cap thread with something like PB Blaster. Unless it is a spelter/pot metal cap, it should be brass on brass threaded. You may have to used a strap wrench to take off. It has to come off anyway. Like most of the early cars, maybe you know this, but the water just needs to come over the top of the core.
Resurrecting a '28 4 banger - Vintage Chevrolet Club - Discussion Forum
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I am going to guess there was a cork for felt seal in that push in cap at one time.
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If i read the Master parts list correct you need 5111 Brake band support spring, set screw, check nut, cotter pin and washer for 14" brakes used after about July 1916. I don't see any change in part number after that date. My copy of the brake pages are from the 9th edition of the Master parts list, which I think goes up to 1927. I will check but don't think I have any extras. Sorry don't have any extras. You might check with; Myers Early Dodge or ROMAR Home Page
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Vintage Chevrolet Club - Discussion Forum - Forums powered by UBB.threads
https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/forums/20/1/1912-1928.html
The Filling Station Chevrolet parts
Unless it is leaking or your going to do a valve job, why would you pull the head? In other words, don't just start replacing things that don't need replacing just to replace them.
If there is a fitting on each end, that would be the oil filter.
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29 minutes ago, Nino Fabbro said:
Clutch information
Go back to the post you started and ask there. Few are going to see your question here. You need to let us know what information you need. Not enough info to go on with just two words!
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Besides the alternator the only other thing I see that is not stock is the breather cap on the valve cover. Unless there has been some replumbing under the rocker cover, would not be needed. Has there been and if so, how about some photos? Normally you would oil the felt pad that lays on the rockers via the holes in the top of the cover and every so often that the cover off and refill the wells around the valve stem bosses along with making sure the felt is well oiled. The springs going up and down splash the oil so it get to the valve stems. There would not be any pressure getting up there from the crankcase. The side covers and rocker arm cover are dust and splatter shields, the rocker arms are a loss oiling system. You are missing the oil filter and plumbing that would have been mounted where the coil is. Can't see what is below the carburetor to tell what is still there, which I hope it is because that is part of the system that fells the rod dipper tray. If there is a fitting coming thru the block and it is capped off, then the filter was taken out of the system and (hopefuly) the internal parts are still there.
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Ok so now that you are here, what is your question?
Not to direct anyone away from this site, there are also two good Facebook sites for early Dodge along with Home | Dodge Brothers Club. I think that the AACA store's the Dodge Clubs library.
If you don't have a copy I recommend getting the "Mechanics' Instruction Manual" 1914-1927. Also the 14th or 15th edition, depending on your build date (you want the one that was printed just before your car was built) "Book of Information".
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Great! You might want to dial back the regulator about 1LB to 1-1/2LB. Remember that the carb is gravity feed so does not need that much.
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This YouTube video covers what Jay L had to to with an Owens Magnetic with same problem;
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I have not used them. I got mine from; https://www.ledlight.com/6-volt-negative-ground-automotive-led-lights.aspx
They are more automotive tuned, where as the company you posted, from the header when I opened the page, seem more general.
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Guess after looking at the current Filling Station Catalog, in the last year they have lost a number of parts suppliers for pistons and semi finished mains. But no fear, except maybe the pocket book on the mains; Kohnke Rebabbitting Service | Facebook
Is the DA6 a Dodge and didn't they have insert bearings on the mains?
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30 minutes ago, Pete O said:
Thanks Mark, that's interesting information that I did not know. Is there a sediment bowl built into the vacuum tank that will catch debris and condensed moisture that can be drained out? If so, is an inline paper filter even necessary? I know in the Model A community, where the fuel tank is in the cowl and it gravity feeds to the carb, guys tend to want to add a filter, and all that does is cause flow problems as the filter clogs up. The factory sediment bowl that's in the fuel line is really all that's needed if you're not dealing with a fuel tank that's full of rust. The add on filter is a band-aid. The only real cure is to clean the tank.
Same with the Model T's re adding a filter between the tank sediment bowl and carburetor, esp with early cars and tank under the seat. Yes a clean tank is best. This is what I have on my 1920 Dodge vacuum tank, it is aftermarket era correct. In my case there really is not room under the tank for a sediment bowl/filter. The fuel tank on mine does need to be cleaned (the brown at the bottom is rust and scale). Most glass bowl types also have a screen inside so larger particles don't back flow into the pump or carburetor depending on where you mount the filter.
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I have an original glass bowl fuel filter installed on my 1920 Dodge Stewart vacuum pump. It is installed on the in line with a banjo fitting to top of the tank, but the bowl does not drain out between runs. Makes sense that the filter in this case would be horizontal, between runs it could drain out installed as shown and would have to be refilled each time the pump does its thing. Putting the filter after the pump between it and carb would defeat its use, getting any crud from the tank out before it reaches the vacuum pump. There is no pushing of the gas out of the vacuum pump, it is gravity feed so there is not a lot of head pressure to force the gas thru the filter.
You could also have a valve(s) that are hanging up. The rocker arms may need to have the pads reground. What I found out doing a little checking because the valves on my 28 Chevrolet head were hanging up, the pads needed to be cleaned up, made smooth again. Also, when rocker arm pads are ground, there is a small angle across their face so as the pad brushes over the valve stem it rotates the valve. We have an old Black and Decker valve grinder at the shop, it has a special attachment to do this. So it's not just a one car brand thing.
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Might want to post your question on the Dodge Brothers forum page or on one of the Facebook pages;
Dodge & Dodge Brothers - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums
Better chance of some one involved with that vintage of Dodges knowing. Besides my 1925 T, I have a 1920 Dodge touring. If you decide to do what work you can yourself, get a copy of the 1927 Dodge Mechanics" Instruction Manual to help you.
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Plugged radiator or block. Not using the timing lever correct. Carb set too lean. Nice looking car!
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The Filling Station Chevrolet parts
Do a little price shopping on parts and labor cost, I know darn well if you can turn a wrench and know something about rebuilding engines you could do the work for a lot less then suggested above and maybe learn some new skills in the process. Think about how much you are going to use the car; Few hundred or less miles or few thousand miles a year? Are you going on cross country tours or just putting around the neighborhood? Even if you sold it later, chances are the next owner would not be driving a major miles ether.
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For ignition key here is an eBay seller that I have bought from. You may not get a key with DB as part of the number, but as long as it has the same number it should fit;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383693133294?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
There are other sellers on eBay, some with much higher prices but different numbers. The "DB" on the key before the number is nice but not necessary. Like the Ford Model T keys, there were only X number of tumblers used, so that key number would fit other cars with the same number.
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The Mechanics' Instruction Manual calls for Medium Body Cup Grease in the housing every 2000 miles.
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Is it grease or lube? The u-joint housing gets filled with grease and it could be leaking. For now, buy a drip pan or two.
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10 hours ago, MCELLIOTT1957 said:
Thank you for your response. I can still shift it ,so the lock on the transmission is unlocked. The locksmith that I took the ignition switch to, can read some part of the number that is stamped on the ignition cover plate and is doing what he can to make the correct one. Also, do you know what color the engine is supposed to be? I keep seeing grayish colors, greenish colors, black colors. I think I am going to aim for the grayish color for the most part and with the hopes that the brass and copper colors of the small parts would stand out. Just curious though of what it was or is supposed to be.
The ignition key number is not on the plate, it is right next to the slot on the outside face of the tumbler. More then likely, like almost 100% it is a Clum switch.
1918 Dodge Brothers tourer
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
While the straight windshield is correct for 1918, the mid year 1919 slant windshield (1920 models) roadster windshield was 2 inches lower than the touring. I don't know if that was the case in 1918, lower windshield. Here is a sample of 1918 touring; https://www.classicandsportscar.com/classifieds/classic-cars/dodge/other-models/a-powerful-and-very-well-built-1918-dodge-model-30/9313004