Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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1937 what? Not sure what rear differential and torque tube removal has to do with the flywheel unless you are asking how to remove same to pull the transmission to get to flywheel? Still would help to say what brand of car you are asking about in the title and little more information on what you are doing in the question.
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Priming cups generally have pipe thread, so don't think washer will help. You might try recutting the thread in either the head or on the priming cup just a little more with the proper size NPT cutter. Or you could wrap Teflon tape around them. People used it on spark plugs all the time.
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Fantastic!
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Otto Gas Engine works; https://www.ringspacers.com/
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You could take the cover off and look, I know that is what I would do.
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On 10/9/2021 at 11:32 AM, Mattml430 said:
We better start to worry when they direct us to funeral directors or nursing homes. 😳😂🤣
Ya nothing like getting a funeral plan notice on your 60th Birthday!! (Yes it happened to me)
I just check my Bookmarked page to the club, worked fine. If you are doing a search each time you go there, try bookmarking the page once you find the correct one.
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Edit and put the year and make of car in your title so people will see it. If you haven't, there is also a Buick section.
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Yes, but only part of 1920. The bolts to hold the drums were added during 1920.
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Was trying to make suggestions as an end used, just keep doing it the way you are.
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I think this might be like the type being asked about (this is the Ford Model T type); https://www.modeltford.com/item/3047NYL.aspx
For the Model T Ford, you can also get one that is 7.5 degrees advance.
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You might find out what program was used here; http://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/1909/default.htm
The down loads are searchable by book/image or title and also page when that book is opened.
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No sorry, I do not have a source. Google Volvo overdrive. One might find them at wrecking yards. There are other brands of inline overdrives. I just redid a rear end for a Model T Ford, the customer supplied a Laycock unit. But thinking on it, is this an open or closed drive shaft? If it is open, this would not work.
Instead of the 4 speed, go with something like a 5 speed (4 with overdrive). Google "Model A Ford 5 speed". While this would not help mount it, you could find information on its use.
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Might be easier to fit a Laycock or similar overdrive in the drive line. Not an uncommon conversion.
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Guys would mount a spark plug somewhere in the exhaust pipe after the muffler, hooked to a Model T coil. When they wanted flames out the back, richen the mixture and pushed a button, Wa-La flames!
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Aren't the modern "rubber" gaskets a type of injection molded silicon?
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I got one for 1960s 12 volt system. Mine is so generic, it does not even have a part number or name on it. Many cars used them, both 6 and 12 volt systems. Quick google search; https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=12+volt+ignition+resistor
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If you use a standard round coil, 12 volts, check to see if it has a resistor. If it does not, get one of the Chrysler ones.
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The condenser does not eliminate sparks;
Why does a car ignition need a condenser?Basically the function of a condenser in a coil ignition circuit is to reduce the spark at the contact points as they open in the distributor and thus minimise burning and pitting of the points. Arcing is caused by the effect of self induction in the coil as the points interrupt the flow of current.So you will still see some sparking when you open and close them.Also involves the collapsing coil fields; -
Re the chain; In your opinion, with the 1920 engine, what RPM range would be ok? This question was not about high speed, just comfortably going a bit faster than 35 and still having some reserve power for the hills, not freeway speeds. The chain, while, does carry a load, not like the load from turning a cam shaft used on many types of engines. Would this be more about wip than load?
If I did the math right, has the disadvantage of the lowest ratio rear end made by Dodge at that time. But at least it is better than my 1948 Ford F2,
which generally I keep under 45, otherwise the 6 is really turning the RPMs.
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Another thing needed to run; compression. Have you checked that?
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Re voltage at the point, that just tells you that you are getting battery voltage to the points. Try what I suggested to see if the coil is firing. What you see at the points is line voltage, not coil output voltage, which is correct.
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I think you might have the wires reversed at the coil. If it is an original coil, you don't need a voltage reducer, it is a 12 volt coil. Are you sure the points are clean? Even a little grease/dirt/oxidation with prevent firing. Turn the key on and hold the coil wire close to the engine, so there is a small gap, open and close the point. Are you getting fire that way? You do have the battery negative ground?
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9 minutes ago, Minibago said:
Hi David,
Does this apply to very early car too?
1917 and 1919 Budd body cars
Reading this, I was thinking the same thing. It would be nice to know "WHAT" years they have them for. Also, what is proof of ownership, that they are asking for?
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13 hours ago, trini said:
How about rigging up a steamer in the back yard and direct the steam into the rad for a couple of hours ? Can also use this method to clean out gas tanks.
While a steamer might clean out loose rust and greasy gunk, not so much with hard water deposits. Ask the guys around you in the old car community, if they know a radiator shop that works with old radiators in your area. Reach out to the Ford (Model T, A or other), Chevrolet, etc guys. Unless it is a honeycomb, more than likely it needs to be rodded out along with a good cleaning.
Need Eisemann magneto help
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted · Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
Where did you send it too?