Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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From the size of the runners on the intake could be 1928 Chevrolet engine. Besides going to two exhaust ports, they increased the size of the intake. Pretty sure the enclosed flywheel started in 1925, so engine could be 1925 to 1928 (head could have been changed at some point, fits the same). There should be some numbers on the right side, at about the distributor level. Can't help with that ID. Is the distributor mounted in the block or on back of generator?
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But if you are paying someone by the hour....
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You don't have to remove the radiator/hood but would make it easier. I have replaced one with it still in place. The front of the engine has to be supported. Yoke/generator removed. Then remove the timing cover/side cover. Make sure the pan bolts are out. Break the nut free and remove, it's tight. Remove timing gear and make sure the timing marks are lined up when installing new one. Replace the rope seal in cover, install gaskets and reinstall parts. Hope no bits and pieces fell in the pan. Think the one I did, had two blade fan, don't know if 4 blade would be in the way.
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Some were laminated, they normally are pretty good. Others were macerated (chopped short fiber) very prone to loosing teeth. Then there are the ones that could be made of either material but have a steel or aluminum center, those are well known to give out.
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Look under clutch for the grease fitting.
On page 171 the cutaway shows were to fill and page 173 says how much.
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What engines it could be used on depends on several of the diameters. This would have been used to cut the center thrust when using the thicker babbitt shell type or direct poured crankshaft bearings.
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4 hours ago, Dave39MD said:
You should have access to those by dropping the fly wheel cover first. There is a process for putting on the gasket that helps keep it from leaking. I followed the advice from the VCCA site guys and my 31 does not leak at the oil pan. https://vccachat.org/ You can search the site for many past questions on this and other topics.
You make 4 studs from 1/4 20 bolts to guide the pan. I use grease to stick the side gaskets on the engine first. The night before I have wrapped the end gaskets around a can with rubber bans so they take a circular shape and they go on next. Some have to be trimmed slightly to fit correctly. I use a small dab of gasket sealer where the ends meet the side gaskets. Then up with the pan.
Good luck
Dave
Use the same process for installing Ford Model A pans.
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If you have the 1914-1927 Mechanics' Instruction Manual, it was updated as time went by. It should have information on the latest models.
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Might check down below for one of the GM forums or try asking on the VCCA Facebook page too.
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If they are the plate type, when you get the key, you might be able to line them up on the key and move around till they all line up if you can figure out the number.
When I got my new key, because the one I had (and lost) would not stay in the slot and was the wrong number, would fall out. Took the switch apart for service, found out why the key would not stay in, no tumblers! Flat blade screwdriver works great and no expensive key to lose. LOL
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That seller is way over priced in my OP. I got mine from this seller; Dodge Graham Maxwell key 1917 1918 1919 1920 1921 1922 1923 CLUM switch key | eBay
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You will have to take the floor boards out or get under the car. The filler should be on the right side of the transmission, drain on the bottom.
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Very nice! Could you add a link for the information on the 4 cylinder caps? I looked at your post, but there were pages of them.
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The OP last logged on May 16th and signed up on May 12th. Sure they could be watching without logging on.
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The OP last logged on May 16th and signed up on May 12th. Sure they could be watching without logging on.
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Find someone that can do early VW or Model A Ford drums or has older drum lathe. They should have the smaller spindle and tapers to hold the drums.
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Hassler shock absorbers. More common on Ford Model Ts. I have the front ones, just not installed. Need a pair of the coil springs for them. The gas tank is in its normal spot.
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This would have been a simple straight forward thing if the seller had the title. Some were along the long history of the car it was lost. He was selling it from his dads estate and had bills of sale that went back to before 1975, having passed through several different owners before his Dad got it. The process started 4-5 months ago, sending in all the papers I had been given along with title application. Had to barrow a trailer 2 times to take in for serial number inspection, the first time, ran out of time so had to bring it home and take trailer back brother. 2ed time, the field office I went to had not been notified of my appointment but after checking with main office found there had been a goof up on the part of the main office, so honored my appointment. Had to turn in more documents at time. The 2ed inspection and turning in more documents was about 8 weeks ago.
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8 hours ago, Roger Barrett said:
It’s a good idea when driving one of these long distances to occasionally downshift into second gear so the cluster gear will get oil to the mainshaft bearings. When I build DB transmissions I use sealed bearings on the mainshaft so I don’t have to worry about that.
Never would have thought about all this till reading this post. Of course in western Oregon, don't think not downshifting would be an issue! LOL Not like I live in a flat state.
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"You can't charge back on your credit card after sixty days."
It is 180 days for most and longer on some cards for a charge back.
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There is also the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America, VCCA. They have a web site and Facebook page. There should be a GM or Chevrolet page here just scroll down some. \|/
1909-10 rear end
in Model T (and older)
Posted · Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
Ya, being a T owner, some people can get real persnickety over things, even if it is not a show car. LOL I would say, if the rear end is newer and you plan on driving the car, rebuild the one you have. The correct one will set you back a good chunk of green. The 3rd link cudaman posted, is more in line with current price. If anyone says anything, just tell them you are saving up to buy the correct one.