Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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Try posting in the Dodge Brothers section down below if you haven't.
Also, there are 2 pretty good DB Facebook pages.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/dodgebros/ (connected to DB club)
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Put a tarp over it or I have done many times, a garbage bag over the engine. Just don't put the garbage bag over the engine when it's hot.
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8 minutes ago, Layden B said:
I see no valve gear! Are you sure this is not an air compressor?
The valve box is on the bottom and the cam that operates the rod is on the back side with no reversing linkage.
4 minutes ago, Gunsmoke said:I'm guessing a display model, the cut away cylinder area,
Most cross heads are open, that is not the cylinder. That one is curved top and bottom and main rod would keep it in place.
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What little I know or have picked up, most scanners are going to match to a color in their data base, if using more then one container, mix they together before use and when buying spray paint, check the code on the can and get all from same batch number.
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In Oregon cars 1975 or newer have to pass DEQ if they live in a DEQ zone.
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Great! It can be your best friend working on your Dodge.
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Besides asking questions, you should get a copy of "Mechanics' Instruction Manual" and a copy of the "Book of Information" that came out just before your build date. You can find reprints of the first one on eBay. To drain the oil, you have to uncouple the pickup tube from the oil pump and remove the two bolts holding the pickup in the pan. Have a pan under it before doing that.
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He says the cylinders are clean and hard to turn with crank, so guessing it is not seized just tight.
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In 1924 it would be positive ground. The ground side was change in 1921 or 1922 to positive ground. For cranking over, the starter does not care which one is used. Unless the chain is rusted solid, don't think that is an issue that need to be delt with at this time. Too loose or tight would not really affect it turning over by starter or crank. If everything looks clean inside, I would go with the bearings were setup on the tight side. You could try the old standby, tow it around some to loosen up the bearings. Make sure it is well oiled, top and bottom and brakes work.
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Don't have book in front of me, for DB, would be after distributor was moved to head around 1926/27 fast 4. Before that, the rotor used a floating carbon contact between it and distributor cap at the sparkplug end.
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As was pointed out in your posts on FB, depends on what state the was sold in did at the time. Some went by calendar year some went with model year. There is NO correct answer. Flip a coin and make a choice. In the long run it really does not matter because you would get arguments later from both sides saying what they think is right no matter what you do at this point.
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Could be rings/pistons, could be rod bearings or mains are too tight. Without knowing more about what has or has not been done to your engine could make it hard to guess what is going on. Were you having this issue before while dealing with transmission lock? Or is this something new? In the post linked below, you say the engine was rebuilt in 2000 then stored. Could be it was setup too tight back then.
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Running board splash shields or running board aprons. The Master Part list calls them running board splash shields, the one under the radiator a radiator splash shield. Didn't look up the engine pans but guessing following that line of reason, they would have been called engine splash shields too. Update: checked the MPL, the engine ones are just engine shields.
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On 9/2/2022 at 8:38 AM, sagefinds said:
There is a piece of tape on the left front door that says " 1920 Willys Knight" .
maybe he just wants to know it that is really what it is.
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There should be lots of the Dodge Brothers units out there and they are 12 volts to boot.
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Sorry you feel that way about the people that post on the Facebook Dodge Brothers pages. I see very little BS on either of those pages, in fact pretty much mirrors what is posted here. One of the two I posted links for is the National Dodge Brothers Club Facebook page. I would say one would be best informed by getting and reading the Mechanics Instruction Manual, Master Parts list or Book of instructions. Dykes is a good supplement at best.
Oh, by the way, here is AACA's Facebook page; https://www.facebook.com/groups/7846724972/
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If you go to page 2, ThreePedals post Sept 2, there is a list of the Bair numbers. Those would be the number cast onto the top saddles. You can also do a search here for Dodge Brothers Top Saddles. There have been other post about them.
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The roster for the Dodge Brothers national club I have was included as part of one issue of their bi-monthly club publication. Don't know if they are still doing it that way, mine was a few years old when I got it. If you click on the link, it will take you to their home page, there might be info there.
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Maybe it could come under Commercial Car? 32x4 say 45 front and 55 rear. Try asking on Facebook; https://www.facebook.com/groups/DodgeBrothersMotorCars/ or https://www.facebook.com/groups/dodgebros/
There are a number of guys that are working on screen sides over there.
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Not to rain on your parade re judging: Looks like the car was given what I call an Ice Cream make over. The outside is nice, but not much done outside of, that going by that under the hood shot. Not sure what class this car would fall under, don't know AACA's categories. Not putting anyone down that does that kinda thing, having cars judged, just not my cup of tea.
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Compression whistle makes a chirping sound.
Later 1919, 1920 series. Your car and choice, but I kinda like the cream wheels.
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Yes that should be correct. 50 LS for the front, 55 LBS for the rear.
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There were even a couple of different brands of add on starter/generators for the Model T that could be put on the pre starter cars.
Vehicle #
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted · Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
For 1919 it is stamped on the crossmember under the front seat main floorboard right side top. There could have also been a tag on the toe board, same side. The number on the frame is in fairly large numbers. You may have to take a wire brush to the area.
Engine number is just an engine number and is or could be 30-50,000 off from the serial number. (I have seen that range of numbers depending on who is telling it or what you read)