Delco32V

The Logo is annoying to me, but wouldn't influence what I buy......I am gonna ask Son about it though.......

I have and will again. I had a first gen traverse (POS) then went to the equinox in 2016. The latest is a 2019, and has been a trouble free reliable vehicle with all wheel drive. Its the wifes car. I am a bit biased as my son is an engineer in the transmission division of GM. Personally, I drive a 2004 Ram Hemi and has almost 200K on it. Been sticking it to the man for many years now payment free......

I'm next to our then new 1970 GTX. 440 4bbl, 4spd, super trak pak 4:10. FY4 Gold with Gold interior. Poverty caps, AM radio. I remember going on a multi state trip sleeping on that vinyl seat for hours. No AC in this one. 7 MPG on Sunoco 260. I've been looking for it. Believe it to be in NJ as of 2007.

I'd like to replace my leafs on the 28 pontiac. Passenger side ones are not arched anymore and flat. I've not seen any supplier advertise them, but have seen chevy ones from the same year available, Are they the same, or is the front chevy truck ones due to the weight of the 6 cylinder engine? Thank you Mike

Had it on a new hunter machine which is very sensitive. Its actually not bad with the exception of worn king pins, so new ones have been ordered. Its a I beam front axle, so no caster adjustment save for bending it, but its OK. The slop is the king pins. Toe was OK too.

Turns out the left side springs front and rear appear flat and have lost its arch. Measuring it, the drivers side is about an inch lower vs the passenger side. I guess not a major surprise after 92 years. I figure the car might sit up some and ride better too, Not a major issue, but now that I see it, I want to correct it. I see that 28 chevy springs are being made. Are they the same or do the front ones have to be from a chevy truck because of the 6 cylinder engine? Thank you Mike

For a 1928 Pontiac Coupe. I want to get a king pin rebuild kit, plus a source for new leaf springs.... Thank you! Mike

Thank you Fellows! Much appreciated Mike

OK, will check out the alignment out first. My buddy runs a shop with a new Hunter system......Thank you!

Happened on our 1928 Pontiac after hitting a bump in the road a few day ago. Car had been restored over 10 years ago with little mileage at all. First time its happened in our caretaking. Hadn't noticed anything prior except the steering box play. I have experienced this in a old dodge ram, and it scares the ell out of you..... Steering box has a lot of play and I don'.t know what else yet. What is involved in taking up the play in it? Thank you! Mike

Or better yet, a sticky exhaust valve. I didn't touch anything except (as advised) drove the car for a good 30-45 min in 85 degree weather. When I took it out of the trailer, It had a knock like a rod. As the whole engine had been restored (new bearings rings etc) that wouldn't make sense with normal oil pressure. Turns out it fixed itself. It stopped knocking spontaneously and ran noticeably better. Still does. It has been a trailer queen for nearly 10 years, and only had been driven short distances and short times. In the winter run about 10-15 min trailer door open and shut off, no outside exposure. TinIndian was correct, you just have to drive them. Sitting and short outings does not help, except keep the manifold pristine. I will just step up my cleaning maintenance and touch ups to keep it the way it is. That 6 cylinder has a nice sound to it Mike

So I've been thinking about this. I took the car out yesterday for the first time in several weeks.It is a trailer queen and is only taken out to run it a little bit. Through the winter it only was started and run for a short time, couldn't drive it. It ran OK, but was exhibiting the same issue as described. Then I heard a noticeable knocking as I started to drive it. This went on for several minutes ,then all of the sudden the knocking stopped and the engine ran better and smoother and stayed that way. The engine was fully rebuilt, new bearings, rods etc. Oil pressure was good. I realized this was not a rod, but a hung valve that finally though heat and enough oil splash finally got completely free. I'll bet that it was slightly sticky throughout the winter and that is why it ran the way it had. It may have had more than one doing it for all I know. I run the car on 100 low lead av gas, so no ethanol issues here. I've had sticking overhead valves before in other engines. I would guess this happened as it just wasn't run enough or long enough to free it completely. I do not believe the lash is too tight. I've read that some folks will put a little 2 stroke oil in the fuel to help keep the valve stems happy. What say you? Thank you Mike

Thank you Jon. We are the latest caretakers of the car. I'll check to see which one it is. Do you have a diagram of these that I can see?. I don't know who rebuilt that carb before, and like I said, it seems to operate fine once you are moving along in higher rpm. As for adjusting it, any magic I should know, or is it straight forward, ie do the low speed screw first, then the high speed?. It seems off on idle, doesn't sound right to me..... Thank you Mike

Not sure which I have, but this is on a restored 1928 Pontiac 6. I've read the manual about setting idle mix, then hi speed mix. Am I correct that this carb has no accelerator pump?. I was restored with the car, and still looks fine. It has a dead spot from off idle, You cant just take off as normal but have to bump the rpms so it wont die when starting off. If you don't it dies as soon as you try to accelerate. Other than that it runs fine above an idle, Does this carb have an accelerator pump, or is this just the way this carb is? If there is a good way to tune it, please let me know. THe car was fully restored in 2011, and everything including the engine was rebuilt,. Thank you Mike

Not sure which I have, but this is on a restored 1928 Pontiac 6. I've read the manual about setting idle mix, then hi speed mix. Am I correct that this carb has no accelerator pump?. I was restored with the car, and still looks fine. It has a dead spot from off idle, You cant just take off as normal but have to bump the rpms so it wont die when starting off. If you don't it dies as soon as you try to accelerate. Other than that it runs fine above an idle, Does this carb have an accelerator pump, or is this just the way this carb is? If there is a good way to tune it, please let me know. THe car was fully restored in 2011, and everything including the engine was rebuilt,. Thank you Mike

We have one on our Pontiac

I was riding shotgun as a small kid in my fathers 1970 GTX. He had special ordered it from Capitol Chrysler-Plymouth in Trenton. FY4 Gold, black vinyl top, gold interior. 440 4bbl, super trak pak 410 gears, heavy duty 4 speed, pistol grip shifter. AM radio, no AC. Polyglas tires with poverty hubcaps. Didn't buy the Hemi, as it was a family car !, and the warranty was very limited. It was extraordinarily quick and I was shoved back in the seat more than once as he would show me how to dust off other drivers.......

What a beaut!😄 I wonder how many are around. I guess as the lowest priced model perhaps many were used up and disposed of.....

If it is a synchromesh, it don't act like it Slow to up shift and double clutch to downshift and a blip on the gas....... besides, who is in a hurry? 😀 The other thing that is funny, is trying to get into it, where those 1920s folks were tiny, nowadays.......um well you know.....

Thank you all. I'd love to see a pic of the 27 !! My uncle will love the compliment on the paint. He shot it with acrylic enamel almost 10 years ago, not the base/clear that is common now. Mike

Figured I’d share as we can use some mental distraction. My Pop and me and my sons are new proud caretakers of our family’s 1928 Pontiac landau coupe. 😀 You may have seen it at Hershey. Pops brother restored it and It was a senior winner in 2013. It will be at Allentown in July. I run it once a week and we try to get it out if it is dry outside. I should have shot the engine bay too, it’s just as pristine. One small issue, what causes the speedo drum to bounce?. Lube dry?? Thank you! Mike Schweikert Jamison PA

Thank you for posting that!. I too have a pic of the factory set up, and it appears that it does not extend to exhaust port #1. It stops inline with intake port#1. Do you think the end is open to allow airflow to push the hot air into the car when moving?. Our coupe has the hole for this factory setup, but has a block off plate. I'm surprised that it did not have a heater as it is a western PA, Eastern Ohio car originally,. Mike

Wondered if someone who has one, would be willing to share the dimensions of the exhaust heater box for a 28 Pontiac? Is there any door on the interior firewall, or does the snorkel from the heater box stay open all the time on the inside ? Thank you!!! Mike