jeff53

Fred-thanks for that info- I 've always been told to let it idle.and the last time I did- it sound great, but I let it idle for a long time- which with the cost of gas ( then) it was chewing up a lot of peanuts. Rusty- I will check and recheck everything again connection -wiring- read out as I mentioned. I'll try almost anything 1st before getting down on the concrete and pulling the "starter". That's why the bypassing the starter" question was asked in the first place- But I got all the answer to everything else-- which will come in handy maybe later. Shoot if I could trust the shops around here- I would have just had it towed in. I'm sure they could use the work- but I would have to have it towed 20 miles away. Makes me feel bad too because I'm a strong believer in the little shop--but my last 2 1/2 yrs. I'm just tired and want the beast painted and to run nice and be safe. My wife 74- has never ridden in it and my only goal 2 1/2 years ago- was make sure the car was safe, dependable and a decent cheap Earl Scheib or Maaco paint job-- because you can;t drive a paint job. and paying 10-17 thousand for a car that would only be worth about 20-27 - is stupid. The blue and gray you see- is a total of 17 spray paint cans- farm implement type paint- just to keep it from rusting- until I could getting it painted. Rust Oleum- I'm told would start peeling in about 2 years.

Yes I remember- grab any old tire and away you go- just don't mess up the chrome. Not sure about the starter being jammed- shouldn't be- friggin car hasn't moved out of it's spot since 2017- after I check and recheck everything once more- put the hood springs back on tomorrow I'll try to start it one more time then yank the starter. Which is a 2-3 day job for me--- yeah,yeah only 2 bolts- 1 for each day(maybe) and the 3rd to put it back on.

Thanks again for all the threads. I' ve got my answer. Someone mentioned- since I could run along side of it and start it( aka push start) It was a manual- most be kind of a young person- No it's a Hydramatic. And other than Jacking up the rear wheels and turning the wheel by hand-- Which is never gonna happen at my age ( I'll rig something up first) --- So my answer is simple--- get a bunch of ICY HOT soak in it, find slippery stuff like cardboard put my tools on it,tell my wife we need new pillows and strap old pillows to my knees then make sure there's a very sturdy chair within inches- to use to help get off the floors-- then leave everything on and in place- go bench test the starter- and do everything in reverse---- and pray it was the starter button that caused the problem and not something serious. I would post photos of what I got back- from that shop-- but no need -they are on yelp.---- Once the cars running again--- all I have to do is learn to paint-- where the last person left off. Funny most people would have tossed in the towel long ago- and I'm not even a "car nut"- maybe just a nut---- I figure my car deserves at least a decent retirement too.- Plus we all know- tech is great- but I'm pretty sure very few of the new cars will last 70 years plus. 1st photo- bought car for work-74 $150.. 2nd photo- drove to mechanic shop ( just rustoleum paint to keep from rusting) 3rd photo After 4-5 months ( in 2017)

Padgett- I've read all the threads--- and I've had my car since '74. I know I can run along side of it to push start it, jump it with a 12 volt. I can rewiring almost blind folded, I can hot wire it or bypass the ignition switch, I can take the starter out and bench test it and put on a new push button on top of the starter. I can do all that- Again what I don't know- is IS it possible to bypass the Starter- Even when you jump it with another battery whether it's a 12 volt or a 6 volt- there's always a Starter. I was just wondering ---Can you start the engine- without the STARTER..... It seems the answer is NO. Heck as most of you know- this car a person can start it and even remove the battery and it will still run. My question has gotten turned around- so let's move on, I'll simply take out the starter and test it. I wouldn't even be asking this question if I could find a local mechanic - I could trust. Heck I be trying since 2017 just to get a cheap ass earl scheib type paint job... 2017 I took it to a shop to have 5 things done- rebuild or replace- the fuel pump and carb. Do a "complete" tune -up and change all fluid oil and trans.- and then maybe paint a cheap- scuff up the existing paint- and paint. Well 5 months later I got the car back with the exact same spark plugs and wires, my house is a mile from the shop- but from some reason all the engine oil was almost black- and carb. was painted. The shop didn't give me any records or a decent itemized bill- we ended up in court- and all that stuff has to be redone. However getting to the reason for my question to begin with ---- The shop said they " set the timing"-- and last I noticed- it looked like the fan was running in reverse-Hence I looked on line- and it said a car could or might run in reverse if the timing is to far advanced ( whatever that means). This time when I went to start it- nothing not even a click--- an I was just trying to AVOID taking out the starter and bench testing it. And the car still isn't painted after another person started on it in sections in 2018. Hood/trunk lid and 4 doors are primed tho--- cost me a lot seeing how those pieces I took down to the metal and there was very little rust and minor body work just on the trunk lid . So now it's up to me to learn to do a decent paint paint job. Again thanks for all the replies- nuff whining. starter comes off

Thanks again WPTV. all that is good info. and it's a simple fix- I've have change the starter and starter button 2-3 times over the years since '74. And a trick ( NOT ADVISABLE) I've seen is tack a penny on top of the push button- because it also is a common problem where the button on top of the starter will move back just enough that using the "floor foot button will not push the starter button down far enough to make contact or whatever.. I was just wondering if there was a way to bypass the "starter" itself--- to start the engine. as I mentioned earlier- I used to be able to "push start the car" but since we have a downhill driveway that's not going to happen- because If it "doesn't start" then I have to figure out how to get in the garage with an uphill driveway. Again I only wanted to bypass the "starter"because I have bad knees and the friggin back isn't all that good for bending--- I'm not a young goat anymore--- I can take off the starter- then bench test it- replace the button if needed-- then put it back on... It's not that easy and was trying to avoid jacking up the car- crawling under it to safely place the jack stands and getting on the floor- removing the starter- 2 bolts ( actually only 1 from below) the doing everything in reverse. Thanks again but I'll just take the starter off....

Okay so thank you all for your threads and replies. I guess the simple answer is, I'm gonna have to get on the floor and take the starter off- then bench test it that way...if it's good then put it back on the car and cross my finger and hope she starts...... I have checked and rechecked all the wiring and neg.and pos. connection and made sure it was getting enough juice. Getting the starter out years ago was easy- like I said- there's only two bolts- but that was years ago when I was able to climb around the car like a monkey--- Now it's a lot harder- bending- getting on my knees- hell I even have trouble just getting the car up on jack stands- because the floor jack doesn't go high enough so I have to put the jack on some 2x4s so it raises the car high enough to use jack stands.--- So I was just trying to avoid all that and was only wondering "if" there was a way to bypass the starter---- If the engine "started" then I would know -- the starter or starter button -was the problem. I know some basic automotive stuff and have even rewired my car completely 2-3 times. Once I figure out if it was the starter- I wanted to move the push button from the floor and put it on the dash. I have seen that. but not sure if I can even do that with my starter ( 6 volt)--- But thanks anyhow guys-- it'll take about 2 days to get the 2 bolts out--- 1 Day to get the car up on jack stands and another day getting the starter off-- but I guess that's the only way to find out if it's " the starter- or the engine"

Thanks Terry- I've heard of "remote starter switches" but thought they were only for 12 volt or with starters where the solenoid sat on top. I'll call around. But assuming it's "not" the ignition switch" is there a way to "bypass the starter". I'm trying to avoid taking off the starter and bench test it- just to find out the starters okay.. there only 2 bolts holding the starter on- but it's the bending and getting on the floor that's hard. But it sounds as if there's no way of bypassing the starter. Battery reads good/ connections are good. After this- I think I'll try to find out how to put the "starter push button" on the dash instead of leaving it on the floor.

No- no political stuff- Here's the problem- I'm not a mechanic but can do some basic stuff. 2 1/2 years ago I drove my '48 to a local shop. It had a vapor lock and a friend told me it might be that the screen was getting blocked when I started driving there by clogging the screen-5 mo. later nothing's done so I have him tow it to my house Well the shop needless to say we ended up in court he brought it back in pieces ( long story) while they had it a complete tune up was "suppose to have been done- it wasn't unless a tune up doesn't include new spark plugs and new wires. But he did say- he set the "timing". I have only started it a few times since 2017 and never looked at the fan- just thought to keep the fluid from setting. Around Jan. this year I started it and that's when I noticed the "illusion of the fan rotating in the wrong direction. I go and try to start it a few days ago and nothing- not even a click from the starter- So before taking the starter off and testing it. I thought there might be a way to bypass the starter while it was still on the car. If it starts with the starter- then it's a starter issue and would have to come off. If not then I'll have to trouble shoot other stuff like the wiring. But at 66 getting under the car isn't that easy.

When I last let it idle, I thought it "was just an illusion- kind of like watching the wheels on cars on t.v . So I paid no attention to it and thought there's no way- without me physically changing something could it "spin in reverse. Then I did read where to far advance "timing" could do this to some engines. About 2 years ago I remembered a shop said they advanced or set the timing ( never changed the plugs or anything else for that matter- we ended up in court I won). But other than starting it up a few times- nothing ever seemed wrong ( it hasn't been driven for 2 years- just started and let idle). But right now there's not even a clicking coming from the starter. The solenoid isn't visible on a push button starter- Just wanted to try and bypass the starter before taking it out and bench testing it- too hard for an old fart to get up and down on the ground- Also going from the "front of the car facing the radiator and fan- I can hand crank it " counter clockwise" without taking any spark plugs out.

I am no mechanic- so please excuse the question ,it may sound foolish to some... I have an inline 8, the last time I started the car up it looked like the fan started in the wrong direction and when it stopped it was spinning in the correct direction. Now the car won't even turn over. I started it several months ago because of the cold. It has a push button starter. I have checked connections/battery ect... I'm trying to avoid pulling the starter because it would mean doing stuff my back no longer agrees with... Is there a way to bypass the starter?-- Many moons ago, I used to be able run along side and do what was called a push start.. but can't do that now because our driveway is downhill- if I doesn't start there's no getting back in the garage. Again it's a 6 volt - inline 8 ( GM) Ponty. was last running about 4 months ago. Friends have said that starting it up for short burst/runs was bad for it. So it idled for about an hour and that was the last time I tested it.

Wish I could find a reasonably priced Banjo steering wheel like that. My original- there's nothing left to fix and it has a metal hub ( on the back) with a hole. So far no one will touch it. Bought 2 others but the spokes are broken at the center where the hub is. and the hub is made out of neoprene so I can't find a welder who'll touch those either. I guess you can't use All-Metal or JB because of insurance.- I know they used them on other GM cars but nothing comes up.

Heck, just wish I could find the correct banjo steering like you have in these photos. Mines to far gone to repair.

I figured since it was a G.M. it may have been used in other models during those years ( '42-48)

I always ask there first

The photo of the back of the dash cluster--- the ammeter gauge--- Does that green wire go to the starter? and what gauge is it... Sorry it may seem like I ask a lot of questions- but let's just say I bumped into a mechanic shop tat was and now is familiar with small claims.... But hey he knew how to take things apart.... Other thing is - there are 2 trim rings that go around the clock, The first is no problem clock seats fine, the 2nd- is the problem -the one that has the hole for the clock setting screw /post... I don't want to force it thru the hole on the trim ring- but can't see any other way unless I bend the tabs, and once the tabs start getting bent they usually break off. any I ideas.

I have a 1948 Pontiac, There is a company that has packages of the correct nuts and bolts for muscle cars into the late 60's. But I cannot find any company that carries the same for "Pontiacs" or GM of the 40's. To be showroom or even close-- bolts and things like the part# 8.080 hood catch lower plate or the glove box itself. The California Pontiac Restoration Parts may be of use but they have a terrible catalogue and they also use a lot of "universal parts plus every time I have called the price was different from the cat. there's got to be a company that deals with 40's pontiac cars not trucks. I find a lot of "universal" parts.

Is that a new hood latch plate? Where did you buy it ( if it's new). Or is it off of a another GM. Engine looks great

I noticed on the ends of a junked'48 Pontiac 8 the headliner bows had different colors. Does anyone know the order/ sequence the colored bows go in- starting from back to front? Upholsterer can do the installation with no problem- just for my personal records.

2 questions- When you get around to the heater- can you post or send me photos. and Do you how to breakdown/cypher the number on top of the engine. Mine are 572121 (0)maybe with a GM2. the no. I think is "0" is bigger than the one that looks like a screw. It could be a 9.

Thanks a ton, Now I know what I'm looking for or at. Strange how none not even the "48 Fisher body or Motors manula say much about this. Now onto looking for the correct lit. Since my car is a "deluxe"- shouldn't it have come with a heater? "BLOO" says my heater is from Sears and may have been installed later.

These are great photos, however the top only shows what I think is the "intake" for the air to the heater. and the bottom shows the same plate( access plate, maybe). Have you ever seen a heater like mine? Is it an aftermarket or maybe for a different make?

Can you tell me what the number are on top of your engine? I see some with numbers and some without and mine are different. I'm not a mechanic and I have typed in everything possible. Also do you have a good photo of your heater? All books say it should be under the seat? and nowhere can I find one that looks exactly like mine.... but I've been told I should keep it because it is original... My heater is located under the glovebox and about a cubic foot ( little less)

Looking for "original" heater location and photos- for a 1948 Streamliner/SilverStreak/4door/ deluxe/8 cyl. Please do send anything else. I have - a fisher body/ Peters and Chilton/ Upholstery and several other manuals plus a " shop manual- CD and the supplement. I have also tried YouTube plus "google images" In short I have tried just about ALL avenues including POCI ( just got a smart a** answer from them). That's why looking for - original photos. Here's why--- I can find several statements and references where the heater should be located "under the seat". Problem is there is no room or anything missing ( that I can see) where a heater would be connected- also the seat sets on a glider, and the top and bottom fit in a shell. Please don't send photos of a 6 cyl. or a 2 door or a torpedo. I have wiring diagrams that show the heater--- but also the show with and without the turn signal and fuse box. So any other style or model may be designed different. I'm also looking for a close up of the "Hood catch/jamb" The part that attaches to the body --- not the hood. I have a heater - however it's huge about 1 square foot--- located under the dash- on the glovebox side---- It may be an aftermarket- but no one so far knows for sure.

I know R.I. has been around since late 70s early 80's. ( I still have a cat. from back then- I think). Several years ago my wife and I visited R.I. unannounced. I was vac. close and thought I would just go see the place. Sometimes that says a lot. 1st I surprised my wife actually wanted to see the place also- she has no interest in cars. When we got there I was expecting the "cold shoulder". Man was I wrong.-- Now picture our unannounced visit during lunch time. I only expected to ask a few questions then be told to come back. The receptionist, went a got a fellow named Mark ( I think)- not a salesperson- but a guy that actually did the work... He showed both of us around -then we actually went to his work bench. He took the time to explain everything in detail. and mean detail. another person was making a harness on a loom. he even showed me what diagram they would use for my car. If I remember correctly--- there was the original version of harnesses mage with the correct cloth type and there was the less expensive version ( req. plastic coated auto wire). He also pointed out they carry almost all- if not ALL the correct sockets etc. and you could order with no accessories or with ALL. The plant wasn't very big and very nicely placed ( hidden kind of)... The visit being unannounced and the way we were treated- Please keep in mind- we weren't sales people, we weren't owners of several antique cars, we had never purchased a product from them and we didn't own another factory--ALL we were were a couple of retired factory rats ( not office workers) interested in their wiring for my "48 Pontiac.- makes it a hands down company I would buy my complete harness from-- when my monies right.

Does anyone have a close up photo of the catch and latch part of a 1948 Pontiac Streamliner- please only original, or not modified. I have the latch part ( connected to the hood) but can't find a decent photo of the catch- so I can buy a replacement. Also looking for photos of the 2 glove compartment hinges.