jeff53

Great photos and will help a lot later-- But what I'm trying to figure out is when it comes time and the vent windows are ready to go back in.. . I know I would normally just reverse the process and put them in the way they came out... and there in lies the problem- I didn't take them out and can only assume how they go back in. and without actually knowing or seeing them being taken out. I don't know if I should try and put them back in 1st before the door channels and window- or after the door window. My main concern is by not doing it in the correct sequence-I may end up breaking or scratching the glass... But by your photos I can at least get them ready do go back in... Here's best way to think of my project--- I'm a locksmith- You bring a safe to me to work on the dial and the lock and the locking bolts. Now I take it completely apart-- hand you back the safe with everything in a box unlabeled--- You can get all the pieces back together-with a little problem. Now when it comes time to reinstall everything-- you have 1 chance to do it right---- If you put it in wrong and some locks will seemingly operate right with the door open... If it's not right when you close the door and try the dial- you're basically screwed and locked out of your safe. Now it will cost you to have it drilled open, which destroy the U.L.rating If not repaired correctly.or buy a new one. I don't want to buy all new seal and glass because what looked like the correct way to reinstall wasn't. My hood doesn't seat correctly anymore because the last painter took it upon himself to spot weld the 2 halves. when the hood was off the car.. (misaligned) I'm sure-- but the cars painted so it's hard to tell- if that the real reason. but I've checked and rechecked every possible other reason. Once again thanks those photos will be helpful- I got my stuff from Steel also. Now on to the headliner- strange seems no one has dealt with Kanter.

Has anyone ordered headliners- specifically for a '48 4 door Pontiac.. I know there are several companies. I was going to order one from Kanter or J.C. Whitney... And does anyone have a lead on a youtube video on "Taking out and vent window". I can find a ton of videos- all trucks and newer than '48-that show the vent window already out. But can't find a single one on how they are taking out.. The reason I ask the question this way is a shop took them out. and it's up to me to finish the job.not sure if anything is missing or not (yet)

These bows were inside a pontiac at a junkyard . Headliner was still covering them, so I don't think it was made as a hippie thing. I just thought it may be original to the year and car. They came out of a 1948 Pontiac and the headliner looked original.

Trim 71-,Paint# 18,Top-ACC.,Style 48-2609DN#C5019 Vin#c5019 Fisher body Style-B- I did order 1 interchangeable book by GM covering years 46-53 Chevy-Pontiac-Buick and Olds, I got several books from "Faxon and they are terrible- but non returnable because "they are book". If you're old enough you probably remember xerox machines where the copies came out so bad and dark you couldn't make any details out. Also the watermark in the upholstery book is dark enough and right on top of some printing it's hard to read.... My car runs okay- but qualified sources ( key word "qualified") are shall we say very limited--- I found one place that the people are great- but said they would have to charge 90+ per hour to do the research to find the correct parts.... Which I understand -because that ties up man hours-not working on something else.( no one is in business to go out of business). and so far I have spent hours- just looking someone who has "actually" replaced the door guts --or modified/upgraded the windows and knows what parts and where I need to order from. ( which I don't really want to do)The places I have found all say- They will only guarantee their product for which it was made- ie stuff for a 1948 Chevy "might" work- but no guarantee and if altered- no return. I got a wiring harness from Ron F. and I had 4 mechanics tell me not to pull it out because the wiring was for a 12 v. not a 6 and very well might overheat and catch fire.( it still sits in it's box because I cut some of the wires- non returnable) So that is why I now ask for people who have "actually" done the work or ordered the parts"-- My next step is to start customizing it and go from 6-12v and find out what the guys at H.A.M.B. or Lowrider have done to convert their windows-if I can't find the right company or correct parts.

I know this topic is dated Has anyone used the tack strips from Kanter?

The restoration shop needs- door parts for the windows- I'm not exactly sure what's missing except I know the sash and bracket on 2 of the doors are missing. They suggested I buy complete junk doors and take out the parts. Does anyone exactly what other make and models are interchangeable or if there is an aftermarket website where I can buy new that will work. My only other choice is to change over to 12 volts- then gut the doors and put new automatic windows in. Since I don't have proper names of the parts- all I can do is guess. I think what they are looking for is something called a regulator and the sash with bracket. I don't really want to buy all 4 doors-just the guts. My car is a 1948 Pontiac 4 door. The problem seems to be no website knows for sure what is interchangeable and won't guarantee it ,if I but parts from a specified model into a different model. I have checked "The Filling Station and Chevys of the 40s websites.. and the Fisher Body body I have-only list Buick Special,Olds 76-78 and Caddy 61 as being the same body. A schematic would help me figure out exact names and parts.

The restoration shop just called and they said - parts inside the door were missing that operated the windows and they can't install my windows ( on the front doors). It would be better if I could find the parts or find new door with all the parts... Anyone know of a close to Wisconsin junkyard.... or which car is interchangeable- For the shop to spend time searching would cost me about $92 bucks an hour. My car is a 1948 4 door Pontiac Streamliner

Okay ,thanks

Well it was a "prof. x auto paint shop owner that started-- he put Evercoat Epoxy/ Primer/Surfacer on the 4 doors/hood and trunk lid and started in 2018 ( that's why I finally decided to get the parts back and finish) What the problem I think began- was he painted the underside of the trunk lid with the urethane based color coat and clear coat. So being inexperienced I asked the auto store what would they suggest. Simple ans... stick with urethane based products all the way thru so I did, not knowing how bad fumes would be. I should have undone everything and taken it back to the metal and either put lacquer or enamel on... it's was never intended to be in a show or compete. There are not 4 coats of either on ( clear or color)... The top ( black area)has 2 maybe 3 coats of color and only 1 coat of clear and the paint is metallic

I'll try and start a new thread- just gotta figure it out - not to computer savvy, but thanks for the suggestion. As far as room goes I don't have a lot either- and I can't spray outside either- my neighbors have a pool and wouldn't be right for me to send paint dust their way when the wind blows... So what I did was tackle Wally World ( Walmart) nought 3-4 or more of their 9x12 plastic rolls that come in small box and in different thickness including the kind of clinging stuff..(auto store charges too much) then told my wife it's either get it done this way now or wait 'til winter and her car would be parked outside most of the winter or pay thousands to try another another "Pro"... Sh e opted for now... So with the 9x12s I went to work using blue painters tape.. Even figured a way to put it on the garage door so I could have a place to make test patterns ( ok,ok, so I wouldn't get killed ).... I had to paint the doors on the car because their was no way to stand them up and I don't bend so swell at this age. Only thing I wish I had done was pay the lousy extra $100 bucks and bought another set of 10,000 lumens LED shop lights--- There are spots that are thin by the front of the left headlight. I would never recommend urethane paint too anyone without some experience... I had none and my biggest problem was having to get the other coats on "within" the 24 hour period or scuff everything up and put another layer of paint on... now cold weather is setting in and I have to try and finish when it's above 60-65 to put the clear coat on the bottom- therein lies the headache- 48 hours ago I painted the bottom and now it's to late to spay clear or repaint that front area...I was told I have to scuff up everything if it's longer than 24 hours. Anyhow-- if you have a 2 car garage and a very understanding boss (my wife) you can do it.. Oh I only went with urethane because I was told to stick with the same kind of paint all the way thru urethane based"... If I had known what I know now before I started------ I would've stripped what the pro did, back down to the metal- and started with either lacquer or enamel--- because I had no intentions it being a show car..... that's for someone much younger and with big bucks...

Okay guys--- To begin with thanks for all your help,just a shame I had to bother you guys- but you guys seem to know your sh*t pretty good. Now me being an old greenhorn I have another question actually more but I'll stick to the painting part for now. You guys have guided me correctly so here's the greenhorn question that couldn't be found on youtube.....Details you may need for you answer... My pontiac was originally a 2 tone-- so I decided to stick with that scheme when I was trying to get the pros to paint my car. The top part is considered charcoal gray metallic-- I got that done and it does have "clear coat on it" and as you can see the clear coat looks shiny in some areas and not in other areas -- someone mentioned I could simply wetsand the clear or buff it out later. so I moved on and did the bottom as you can see.. and yes the runs are gone and it looks okay ( not perfect nut green horn perfect) Now it's time to put the "clear coat" on the bottom.. Here's the question-- do I put clear coat over the whole car or mask of the top and just add it to the bottom. 2nd question If I wetsand the "top" do I have to reapply the clear coat" what grit? or will buffing do the job? 1 more thing awhile back, I was concerned about my serious asthma problems and working with urethane and pot life and all that stuff. I contacted Macco and price was way upthere. plus things they wouldn't or couldn't do. If this helps anyone and by no means am I recommending it- but it worked for me. I used a painters mask with the 2 filters and under that I had a dust mask. Those 2 together did restrict my air more( naturally) but I gave me enough time to paint a section--- go outside catch 15-30 minutes of fresh air..... What I did also was mix up enough to paint the whole complete area I wanted to paint. What didn't fit in the spray gun cup- did fit in a Sargento parmesan cheese container and those have lids that also fix a measuring paint cup. This way I only had to mix paint once for that day. I put the 2nd coat on within 24 hours( aka the next day).... I put the 2 mask on together just before painting- after checking the pattern/ mixing the paint and while doing that stuff I wore 1 mask.... Warning for those with breathing problems--- If you even begin to feel a little light headed--- stop go get fresh air... I was worried about the pot life--- don't- 1 doctor/hospital visit will cost more than the paint.... 2 I kept my nebulizer within 50 feet and with the mixture in the cup. I also to the time to see about how long I could handle 2 mask- before I even started- I worked in the yard with both on...1st. But for any other greenhorn follow these guys advice always 1st take your car to Maaco- if you don't have the right PPE. or like the one person said--- you might get your car painted - but someone else may end up driving it. I only attempted this because I was out of options. Here's some photos-1st photo April wo17 ,drove to a shop this way ,rattle can by me and I wanted at least a Maaco quality job -- 3 days work,--- 2,3 photos I put a stop too... but this was after 4-5 months at a shop- we ended up in court. last 2 is where I'm at now I don't have photos of what was done from another pro- from Dec. 2018- July 2020. The photo is of my brother and I in'74...... I didn't think too ask "how to save the paint job back then- Az. sun faded the paint and it was kind of chalking-- Didn't realize all it needed was maybe just some buffing and polishing

Thanks, I was just trying to avoid clearcoat altogether. I was going to use or buy a bench but figured it wouldn't be any higher than the 2 step/step ladder I have. My friggin problem is the big guy figured I needed bigger arms not a set of longer legs or a longer reach. Oh by the way guys, just in case you're wondering-- You guys steered me correctly- per the factory techs. at Omni. I finally got a hold of them also- ( been trying for a while)and just as you guys said--- put on the base coat then put on the clear coat--THEN wet sand and stuff. So I'm gonna give my paint supplier the benefit or the doubt and say I had to of heard him wrong, however the factory tech. couldn't figure out why they gave me Omni MBC for the top and Omni MBP-Plus for the bottom--- even tho I had a can from the pro of Omni MBP with me. He did say they will be okay together. So thanks again and if everything runs correctly- hopefully the complete paint job part will be done by the end of next week--- whew!! When this is done I should have arms like a great ape- a ton of sanding and re-sanding for a greenhorn.

Thanks and I've seen and read a ton of them, even dug out one from 1981 ( back then I wanted to do this-- work and life just got in the way as they say). Most painting books and videos don't really go into detail- just the standard and normal stuff-- How to clean the gun/ how to get the football pattern/ angle - what orange peel and mottling and other spray look like and they all show how to do it on a vertical surface or something lying on a table. The perpendicular part for the roof is the hard part, I've been using a small 2 step step ladder- but I guess I'll need a little higher platform. I was trying to avoid making one--- ( safety reason) but I guess I'm gonna have to make one.Everything else looks pretty decent. Glad to know about the clearcoat . so I won't fret to much if I get some runs.... I have an Eastwood Cat. but thanks for the other. Only person I know that's willing to give out info is the at the auto paint supplier and good thing I checked here before putting on mu clear coat- because they said to " wet sand " the base coat and then put the clear on and wet sand that also. ( wet sand in between base and clear). Personally- I just wish this didn't need a clear coat at all.... but this is what the 2nd auto painter started with- so I guess I have to see it thru. 2 curious questions- When watching the shows like Kindig and others- they seem to have guys covering the "whole body" in filler type stuff- I thought filler was just for small areas or it would crack. 2nd question--- All painting videos seem to show almost a cloud like foggy mist..... I can get the football shaped pattern okay and a fine somewhat okay mist- the tip is a 1.4 - but I can never seem to get the very fine mist.... My way seems to use a lot of paint..... But I'm not getting any fisheyes or orange peel ( the books and videos point out the gun settings but never really an optimal starting point.... Kind of like me telling a new driver - just stick it in gear and and start down a 7-9% grade.

Well 1st part I guess I did right by accident--- I laid down what I thought was too thin of layers of the basecoat. Putting on the clear coat, all I was trying to do was skip changing over and then back to base to do the bottom then back to clear again. and my wife and I kind of I liked the "matte" color and I thought "well if she's happy I'm happy and maybe I can just forget the clearcoat. Guess not huh... I read all the scary stories about how hard it is to lay down, and how easy it is to get runs. I never would have even considered metallic paint -- if I knew I was going to end up doing the beast. Problem I seem to be having now with this last layer is--- not being tall enough to get the top of the car "evenly" I use a small step ladder ( 2 stepper) but doesn't give me the best reach ( as I noticed) I'm getting what I would call heavy and light streaks- didn't really want to try a 6' ladder- figure that's just asking for trouble. and as a past freelance photographer--- I know lighting is everything and lighting in my garage is only fit for critters like me -- but not for painting a car without several "do-over areas". Oh I have 4 shop lights on those tripods- but they are still pretty bad.Can't paint outside ( neighborhood issues) I would consider myself a backyarder---except this is the one and only time I ever paint a car and I'm only doing this- because after trying to get others to paint it since 2017 ( and losing money in the process) I figured if I didn't do it -- it would never get done in my lifetime... So I had a choice-- either sit and watch it rot before my eyes or take over and at least try to get it painted and back together... I so much wanted someone else to do this. Makes me puke just to think of all the leftover stuff I either have to throw out or find a spot for... My poor wife has never ridden in it and bless her heart-- she's been pretty patient with me saying " Sorry but we can't park your car in the garage until this thing is at least finished being painted Again thanks to all

I did and will heed the recommendations -you guys know your stuff and just as when I trained guys to drive semi- sometimes there just isn't another option when backing up a 65-70'- large car. Not to Sand- as I stated, I was just wondering if there was another way to - put the "clear coat on-- outside of the flash time or dry time ( that's why I listed the spec times)... The "clear coat isn't on yet.... I plan on putting on 1 more coat, but just couldn't find the time to do it all at once anytime soon. I know there are some paints that " do not need" a clear coat--- that why the question... I kind of like the Matte finish and just thought -- what the heck maybe I can forego the clear coat all together.... I hear even some pros have trouble putting on clear coats.. So I know I'll have trouble. I also thought maybe just buffing and polishing it would be okay. Doesn't clearcoat,take a special spray gun? By the way thanks for getting into the tech part, ie there's a good reason for coming to you guys--- There's more to backing a semi, than hop in,check your mirrors and start backing. Again thanks

Okay guys,thanks a lot, and I'll lean into your suggestions of " Do Not Sand In Between the base and clear coats. This is why I come to you guys. Next and last question on painting---- Keep in mind this is metallic base coat Omni MBC urethane. I'm working with and not a solid color. Recommended Flash time is 5-10 min between coats and 20 minutes min.- to 24 hours maximum- to clear coat ( per Omni tech sheet) Question If I can't put the clear on right away or within 24 hours"-- then what??? Reason I ask- is everyone states/says I'll ruin or move the metallic "If I have to sand"... Is there a sanding method where I "won't mess up the metallic? If you don't understand the question please let me know and I'll re write it.... I ask this because I'm about to put the final base coat on today and don't see where I would be able to have the time to put the base and clear on in the same 24 hrs ( at least no time soon.. Maybe you guys can tell me if this'll work--- The car is being painted 2 tone-- what I'm doing now is just the top. and I was planning on completing it 1st all the way to clear- then start on the bottom 1/2 and doing the same and "then reassemble the car"( remember it's in pieces) or should I go ahead take care of the bottom 1./2 and then re assemble the car and then put the clear on ( since I'll probably have to scuff it up to some degree anyhow since the metallic will be dry. Lord how I know these questions might sound lame to experienced people but please keep in mind- only thing I painted was wood stuff and it's gotta be right or I watch it peel away as I drive it--- It may not look perfect but that's do to expeirence but with your help it'll be done correctly.

Just Dave -- you're either joking or more experienced than everyone and have your own shop. " Stick Sand- rub them on a clean spot on the garage floor--- really??? I have been and lived in 5 or more states ---and have yet to read or hear anyone " recommend" what you suggest....Must be a trick you learned a long time ago... I'll do all that at the same time I find the place where my turn signal fluid goes. But hey, thanks for the " if all else fails- goto trick". Oh at 67 and 1 back surgery ( years ago) how many times will I need to find a clean spot on my garage floor,'48 4 door is a pretty big tank.

And there in is the problem-- Look at your 1st line and then the last 2 and re-read... You suggest follow the suppliers advice-- Okay but then your bottom statements-- read just as I have said---- I do NOT sand at all in between base and clear.... My question -if you re-read says this is why I was asking to begin with... My supplier says " Do Wet Sand in BETWEEN base and clear---- and you and other websites say " DO NOT SAND IN BETWEEN" base and clear... So I'm looking for someone familiar with the OMNI MBC brand. But thanks for your reply... right now- I'm guessing "I SHOULD NOT WET SAND" in between coats--- I just wanted to dbl check before ruining what I have done so far.

I do have the Omni Spec sheet and it says nothing about "wet or dry sanding" just the dry times between coats.

Okay guys- time for another - greenhorn/novice/beginner ameturist basic question.... ( a little update 1st) and the price was right around 5k nut they wouldn't be able to do my car in pieces. So I had to figure away to put the urethane paint on myself., if anyone followed I was worried about my asthma and the fumes and I was left with doing the car....but the pro started in urethane so I had a choice either continue with urethane-which has a ton of fumes/ or finish with rattle cans or take it to a Maaco 80 miles away. After talking to Maaco my only feasible choice was try and do it myself. Now here's where you guys come in coz it seems you're all pretty knowledgeable and know your stuff cause most of you seem to actually work on or paint your cars yourself. 1st what help my breathing was double up on the masks-- I put on a mask that had those 2 filters on top of the little dust type mask. 2nd was mix my 2-3 quarts together so they would have the same color. 3rd Since I was worried about pot life--- I just didn't mix as much all at once-- Ie.. instead of 8 oz of paint and 8 oz reducer I cut it down to 4 oz. of each and that covered an area- it took longer. and there is some do over areas. Here's where you guys come in.... The paint is Omni MBC ( magnetic) urethane base coat a 1:1 mixture. I call it metallic.... Now no need to tell me what I should have used because the Pro started with Omni MBC. So Just like locksmithing I try to stick with the same brand all the way thru a job even though other brands might work. Question is there are websites that "DO NOT" recommend "WET SANDING" for a nice finish and suggest put on the "CLEAR COAT" and then WET SAND. Automotive paint supply place said next I "DO" want to WET SAND 1st and Then apply the Clear Coat and wet sand it also. and the other sites suggest 'DRY" sand it with 800-1200 grit and put on the clear coat and buff and polish.... What say you? I should add I can "wet sand" but only by way off using a bucket.. I can't hose it down at this point.

I will but it might be awhile now- since I also have to start all over with the budget, used everything I had set aside for the painting and now it was either ask everyone for their advice and try and do it myself or dip into the upholstery budget-- The Maaco that's about has quoted me an (estimated only) about $4000.-5000. But so far they have only seen the photos-- so I won't hold them to the quote- I used to be a service person -so it wouldn't be fair and after all they would be taking over after a pro and a greenhorn (me)had it. 1 question-- 1st --- In short automotive store said after I finish putting the MP170 epoxy on the rest of the car- scuff it up- then put Filler on- the car to fill in sanding scratches-- which makes sense. Found A friend that will come here use my amteture equipment to do that... What I don't know- is should I scuff up the Mar Hyde Epoxy Surfacer- that the pro put on.... All those panels have been sitting with that Mar-Hyde Epoxy on for over a year---- Everything I read,indicates------I should scuff it up and have him also put filler on those panels---- Oh this might help with you answer-- I have looked all the panels over and there are NO sanding marks--- but they are not glass smooth- more like smooth very mild orange peel- like you see on new cars today

I know, and have already sent them photos so they know exactly what they are getting into.... and have asked them if they want me to assemble it before or if they would rather me leave it as it is and they assemble it and as an ex service person- I let them know- to make sure they add for that extra work- I hated it when I would go out on a job and a person would ask me to fix an extra lock and then be surprised at the additional cost..... All I expect of any person or business is " just do what you said you would do for whatever they want to charge--and I can either accept it or go elsewhere--- If I can for a price for just painting my car, then that's all I expect- If they need to add some extra work in order to " just paint the car" I expect them to add it and tell..--- and my mistake has been one of being to lenient, and say Listen I have the car 46 years and it's a little late to be in a hurry--- But once they take the money- I expect to get the job done in a reasonable amount of time. 1 pro shop took 5 months to just scuff up the paint- not strip it to the metal and I took everything ohh- lights inside trim- removed all but 1 screw- grill and bumpers and all bright work- essentially all that was left was- pull it into the garage scuff it up and give it a maaco type paint job- said he could replace the windows- okay- he removed them and couldn't 2ns pro- 3 years ago right after the 1st said he could do it, I knew him and knew he used to have an auto body and paint shop.. Okay but he needed $ xxxx.xx up front for deposit--- that was going on 3 years ago--- Even with my breathing crap- I'm not that slow and I can't think of any place that is.. and I can't find anyone that thinks that's a reasonable amount of time- just to primer 4 doors and trunk and hood- and paint the inside trim and dash... I can walk into a large hospital walk thru every floor and put together the complete master key system and install the correct locks making sure the maintenance guy can't get into the CEO office without him being there..... But I'm not an auto painter have no desire to learn- that's why I paid places " their asking price" and that's the reason for all the questions-- because I'm green at this and it's been dropped into my hands or I could just over look the 3 years and hope he would get around to priming the shell next year- and want more because there would be more work in removing the accumulated 3 years of surface rust. But to everyone- thank you for your advice- no I'm not a serial complainer- just want the work done after the shops take my money--- and I have contacted Maaco and he was upfront said it would take 3 days and he would get back to me with a guesstimate

Oh I take some blame- because I choose them--- but I didn't know their character before hand- One Pro had done work for me years ago years and the other actually owned his own paint and body shop and I met him while I was a locksmith--- choosing to leave my car really seems to be standard for all auto shops whether here or there- kinda like leaving you car to having an engine overhauled. and the 2nd pro--- my car is here since I got my car back in pieces from the first "pro", the plan was to finish taking doors and trunk and hood off- give them to him- he would do the priming ,I would then bring the pieces home and we would put the car together- I would drive it to his place- and there he would finish it. Only reason for me taking it down to the metal and taking parts to him was to save him time and because he was pressed for room ( no I didn't expect to save money by sanding it to the metal- just figured that would be a lot of the labor, plus give him time to make an opening for my car... As they say no good deed goes unpunished--- but all behind and lessoned learned " the art of good business ethics are gone- I know I sound like a serial complainer and I would believe it myself- if I hadn't paid money upfront- if I was complaining about actual craftsmanship- If this car had been actually painted let's just say late 2018- or early 2019 or early 2020--- but I can't even complain about the work- coz money moved hands upon their request- "We need a deposit before we start" which is quite common practice in this area.... My major mistake- was not becoming an A-hole, and taking them both at their word not not saying "" It's been xxx number of months or years- and with no problem I gave you your asking for amount of deposit- didn't even argue to try and get the amount down- or maybe I should have demanded my money back and said" You should've have asked for a deposit upfront if you didn't have time to do the job.... You sound like one of those bad business people that own your own shop--- I was spending the money and had no problem with there Prof. fees ---- because I did know I wasn't capable of doing the job right- and knew the fumes were bad for me- no way in hell did I wanna get stuck with asking these question, I never have to ask again or did I want to start buying equipment I may never use. And sell the Damn car--- guess what- last year I did put a sign on it and ---- problem is---- no one wants a car in pieces... I even ask the 2nd pro painter " With the way the car sits today- what do you think it's worth???? His reply- in pieces like it is now without completely being painted--- maybe---$4500-5000. In short no even the amount of deposit I gave him----- Now get this--- but you don't want to sell it like that- I can for sure get to it in Dec 2019- April 2020- really it's next he says---- So serial complainer tight with money not a friggin chance- $1500 at Maaco- plus the tow- hell that's less than what I would owe the pro..... and that I have put back to give the pro ( his asking price with no haggling)--- but it's hard to keep an eye on it 80 miles away- and they like I said and someone already suggested- and I agreed are an option---- and spend the time I have left getting the cat done-- please go back over the threads- that is exactly what I've been doing- and have been trying to seek out proper info from you guys - on what products work or are compatible with Mar-Hyde Epoxy Primer Surfacer and Omni MP170 --- because even as a locksmith- I know some lock brands are interchangeable with other lock brands and some are not... which is where you guys come in--- auto store didn't tell I was putting on " for professional use only" stuff- I just happen to spot it... Let me ask you this- If you have let's say 3 $25. dollar locks sitting around and you're not sure if they would work on you basement doors- would you try and find out 1st or just automatically toss them out and go buy the others from the hardware store--- after all hardware stores sell good ones but very seldom sell commercial grade or higher end for homes and cheap 25 dollar ones may fit.and they aren't going on an main entrance. I'd be willing to bet you would try and see if your $25. ones worked first instead of going to a locksmith- or buying more expensives.--- You're not being "cheap" your just being smart before you run to the local hardware store spend $ 240- when want you have will do the job... That is ALL I need to find out - Is what I have on hand would work with what was done and is ALREADY on my car- put there by a professional--- and would work with what professional sold me.... I was looking for an alternative not a "CHEAPER" way of doing sh*t because... 1. Because of the fumes and my breathing problems and 2. because I have some crap on hand already- so why NOT use it if it's compatible and you guys say you've had no trouble.... It would be kind of stupid to throw it away and THEN ask.... But you guys say you've had trouble- so I'm not going to use it -it's that- simple- I'm assuming you guys have no reason to lie- you're not selling me anything and I've never mentioned who the pros were. I even knew there would be fumes- but not worse than the epoxy--- So I took to you guys to Find that "alternative". I found 2 and whether I like the choices or not I'll have to choose one--- neither seems to be a great alternative. But Macco seems to be the better choice and cost about the same. But serial complainer- really??? with only trying to get it painted twice since 2017 and even the courts found in my favor and I wasn't the one that filed the small claims case-- matter of fact when the judge asked me what I was asking for-,instead of asking for it all- I said well since they claim to do some of the mechanical work--- they should be paid something- Just $ xxxx.xx dollars... again my bad because I didn't know they didn't have to turn over the paper work as proof they even did the work--- so I am getting stuck with having to pay a mechanic $ 90. an hour just to check to see if the work was done------ doesn't sound much like a serial whiner too me---- Okay let's end this thread-- good bye you guys

Thanks, to the point- exactly what I wanted- but not what I wanted to read- just hoping to use up the RustO somehow- since I no longer have the receipts- Question- is it because of the end paint being Urethane based? If so, can it still be used but I would need to change to a different type - Like finish with acrylic/enamel- or just because it just won't adhere to the epoxy... Cause I'm not tied into the Urethane ....

I'm almost afraid to ask--- But here goes---- simple question again--- set -up--- I haven't used them yet--- but I have several rattle cans of Rustoleum brand Primer Sealer and Primer Filler and Sandable Primer- all 3 from Rustoleum---- My car as you've seen has "Epoxy" on it--- the next step doesn't have to be but " should be" putting on the "Filler"... Can you put Rustoleum FILLER OR SEALER on top of/ as the next step and have it adhere okay/properly???? If you need to know--- the base color coat I plan on using is Omni urethane base...... Please I'm not looking for other suggestion- just yet... I just want to use up the rustoleum filler and sealer- and this seems to be the perfect spot or time--- but only if they are compatible... I can always change the Urethane base finish color---- but the Mar-Hyde AND MP170 epoxy are already on and sanded.--- or I could donate them if they are NOT compatible .... Oh, by the way- for those that don't like Rustoleum- I don't either - but I will use them- Here's another photo when I used the Rustoleum brand Farm Implement line- back then I had it stripped down again - and wanted to keep it from rusting---- I was amazed-- and I choose Implement paint because it has to be tough and stand up to UV and all kinds of weather--- farmers leave their tractors sit out in all kinds of weather- without fear of rusting-- This photo was in 2003 and it lasted- no additional surface rust until I went over it with the blue and gray- in 2016--- the next year is when I thought it should have a "professional paint job"--- stupid me- I almost got rid of the car because of the "professionals"