jeff53

Thank you but as mentioned I already have the "correct colors" and there are a tone of online place that will mix- even that web-page " Actual" color may be different" What I'm looking for is the actual-- FORMULA OR RECIPE-- so I can take that to the local auto paint store and have a sample made up- to see if I even like the color--- doing it online is a headache--- You pick what you think is the right color ( according to your monitor) order it at about 7-10 bucks a pop- plus S&H because after all it's usually not free for that little of amount.- then wait, then pray- it's the right color and shade---- if not-then start over.... By having the formula/recipe- go to the store -they make it according to you- you say- well can you make it a little more bluer or lighter-they go to the back room add whatever and your done-- depending on the store they may or may not charge for adding. or for a addition sample but thanks

Okay guys,thanks for all your suggestions and input.. They helped a lot. Time for the next question-- Is there a website that has the actual mix recipes for colors- The original colors were called Blue Lake Blue ( metallic) at some sites and Oyster grey... which actually looks like an 18% Gray--- I wanted to use the actual original color scheme and maybe updated it a little by using metal flake or making both colors metallic.. but I wanted to have samples made 1st ( may not even like the metallic look--- The rustoleum I had on it in the 2017 photo is close- but it wasn't metallic nor was it the original Gray or Blue. 1st one - left column, Top left should be the original colors,- Yes, I know the colors are reversed- but since this has landed in my hands and it's only primed- I can go with any color scheme-- I'm also open for suggestions

middle Wisconsin

Just got my quored estimate back from Maaco- $900-$1500... which isn't to bad at all- I figure I would spend at least a half to 3/4 of that in materials left to buy.. Just need to scrutinize their small [print and meet the people face to face.

We will be- Although I found my answer- I keeping my options open only as a back-up though--- getting tired of the new "business ethics". Customer service used to mean real service- now it means- we hired someone to answer the phone and say " I can put you thru to their voicemail... So another pro I'm not to thrilled about

I know they and Pima Jr college used to do that back in the 70's ... But last I heard- insurance was way too high and a lot of school only let student bring their own registered to them or family cars. And yes- most of them do excellent work--- and they have teachers that specialize in all the different areas. Monday comes I'll try the local place. I would really prefer to have it done right- that's why I paid the "pros"- but I am at a no return point and schools might be an option- but another professional shop is out--- besides winter is coming- 1st prof. had the car 4-5 months. and ths 2nd professional said maybe done in spring time- that was spring of 2018- 2019- it would be done around march, oct- 2019 for sure in dec.2019- in 2020 april xxx now it's July- I have to either let it sit yet another year and trust "the pros" or take matters into my own hands and settle on the fact- there are no real pros and to quit searching- because at this rate someone will inherit a huge problem... besides as fast as our generation is dropping off- I want at least one more ride... But I've given up on professionalism and ethics in this area-- I can do this bad all on my own.

Thanks for all your help guys- I'll consider all the options and just so you know- money is only a consideration but not the bottom line-- because the money bottom line would cost a ton more than towing the cat 160 miles round trip or tossing expired pot life chemicals or paint- 1 sm visit to an E.R. or a 1-2 day Hospital stay would cost a ton more. So while I was just a factory rat tossing money at and over priced trylon- is not where I want to throw the dart... I did find a direct answer to my question which I was actually asking wrong--- ( because I'm not an auto painter).... I should have asked" Can I put the base color coat-- directly over the Epoxy Primer Surfacer??? and skip the Urethane Filler step or if there was a rattle can paint BRAND that would work with my 2 kinds of Epoxy Primer Surfacer---- wrong question to ask... To all that this applies to or don't know it--- The answer is a simple--- YES you Can Put a base coat color directly on top of Epoxy Primer Surfacer and go directly to using color coat base.... But you need to let the Epoxy cure- sand to your liking - but don't sand thru epoxy- wet sand seems to be prefered apply your color..... Now with that said- it's recommended and only a recommendation - to use a primer filler with urethane ( urethane also acts as another moisture and protection barrier)--- This way it might cost a lot more- but you can have your "Urethane Based Finish coat put into rattle cans" and use the paint brand you choose---- However the pros don't like rattle cans and they are not even prefered by most amateurs- except for small areas- Again I'm not an expert and some of this info came from a trusted source we all know--- Eastwood... So rather than trust another pro 80 miles away--- it'll only cost couple of hundred bucks- to find out as oppose $ 1000 or more again. To me it's kind of like tipping before the meal- $ 50 dollar meal vs a $10 dollar tip- even if something isn't quite right with the $50 meal. Again thanks for all your info- Here's photo with the way it looks now- in about a month or less I'll post a finish color coat ( with luck) Now to fix my next "Professional Craftsman job done by the Amish- but they have at least offered to reimburse/ refund some of the money- they are just to busy to fix it now ( next photo)

I will give it a try- Thanks

- And that's exactly the way I plan most things now- if it takes a normal person to do a job in about 3 hours- I allow myself and schedule for a 2 day job... but the mixing and pot life somehow doesn't seem to care- and still goes bad. Going to Maaco seems to be the next to the last option, the towing cost isn't the problem- Main issue is after getting burned by "pros" tahing it 80 miles and not being where I can just run over and check on it- coz seems around here the word " professional craftsman" is a generic term for I get paid to do it so I must be a professional".... So I figure they can't do any worse than I can-- but would I pay for someone to do a job as bad as mine might come out? But would I pay to not have to breath the fumes --- yes- I tried twice maybe the 3rd times a charm...

Okay I want to thank you all- sending it out seems to be my next and best option-and I check and the closest on is about 80 miles away. however it makes me kind of skitzy or gun shy trusting it to another "pro" shop- where I won't be around or have any control.. But seems to be my best option--- Here's my last question and may be workable........ I know rattle cans are a no..no.. but I think that isn't because of "rattle cans themselves" it's because of the paint companies and quality of the paint- example- No one likes Rust-Oleum because it peels after a year or a few years. So here's the question--- without considering the non professional results look--by me..... Simple question---- can a person put a color coat/ base coat "DIRECTLY" over Epoxy Primer Surfacer ?? Has anyone actually done it? I know I would have to sand the EPOXY anyway ( it's been past 7 days)... But my problem seems to be the my level of expeirence with a spray gun and this type of paint-shelf/pot life because I know after mixing- I would run the risk of not being able to finish that same day and possibly end up throwing a bunch of expensive stuff out. and of course the fumes... However here's my line of thinking--- It's because Of my breathing problems, wearing the mask which restricts my breathing even more and not being able to stop for long periods....that I don't want to use a spray gun or actually mix the "URETHANE myself. However if any of you have gone directly over EPOXY with the color/base coat -- then I could stay with the omni paint I already have- just have them mix it and put in rattle cans--- That would eliminate the shelf life/pot life worry- I would be able to stop and start however long I needed and not have to throw anything out--- Get rid of most of the measuring and spray gun worries- and most of all get rid of a lot of the fumes.( not all but most) So again - is it possible to put the base color coat directly on EPOXY PRIMER SURFACER--- naturally wet sanded first

Bloo- sorry to hear about your friends and I do have the proper PPE. it 's an automatic no brainer for me always- my problem is asthma- serious enough for 3 lung procedures in 2017- So I'm quite aware of the danger- that's why I'm digging so hard to find an answer- Farm it out would be a god send and I tried it twice not once.... and I'm at a lost how to finish .So it may not be perfect but at least look decent.... heck at this pace- the no rust anywhere car will be a bucket of rust just sitting there Okay guys- here's the 2nd big what if and be truthful as you can be---- Now assuming Maaco isn't open any longer - and I have to finish in rattle cans- even tho I don't want too. which brand would you proceed with For the " FILLER" with the base coat/ finish color and clear coat if needed) and that's buying about 16-20 cans. of Filler and 16-20 of Base coat ( or the color) Only rattle cans will do. But now Bloo has me considering house/metal shed type building paint with UV protection.

Terry B - but what brand?? 55er farm it out would be ideal and I'd jump at it in a flash- and monday I may end up calling Maaco-- just was thinking they would even touch the car if someone already started it. TAKerry- that's the brand that was being used by the author- of the article on Hagerty website... to 55er again-- I know I wouldn't be that happy with rattle cans and am only really wanting to use rattle cans on this Urethane Filler step"... but funny you should pick the exact same words my current professional uses every time I would say " you're just to busy to finish- maybe I should do it in rattle cans and just get it over--- No, No no he would say- you wouldn't be happy with it... I'm miserable now- thinking of how to finish- at 2-3 in the a.m.I'm wide awake and I'm having coffee trying to be the heat and humidity ( that's makes for some tight chested moments) trying to figure out my next step or searching if there's another decent way- one guy did an excellent job- using Duplicolor ( but just on a small car and painted little fender but no epoxy primer- another guys shows how to get an excellent job with rust O. but again no epoxy and all I've ever heard was how it peels, Haderty article was the best-- but not a single one addressed epoxy prime and the brands it will except -- I already have 2 brands on the car- just not on top of each other... So rattle cans or Maaco now is the choice.. I would use rattle can in a minute if someone said how long it stayed on their car and if it was a different brand other than rust O. Heck I just want to stay asleep again.

Matt- I'm not really trying to save money, I'm trying to to waste it anymore around this area- Rattle cans aren't saving money.. I hust can't to find someone that will do the whole job in a reasonable amount of time and without " a huge chuck of money up front... A little back ground history might help you guys- April 2017- took it to a shop, let them know I would pull off all the bright work and lights- and told them I wasn't looking for a discount- just didn't want them to have to worry about losing it cause stuff would be hard to replace and it would be my problem- 6-7 trips later it was all off and since it was only " going to be outside a little while no problem- skip to Aug.2017 still outside now a little water sitting in the trunk and on the floor by the back seat-- it sat thru several storms uncovered- but each time I asked- they would be pulling in "next"..... While having the car I knew it needed windows and window channels " Oh we can do that" okay then add it to everything else--- They pulled out everything okay- but then said " our guy can't put the windows back in- I call a auto window glass place- they go over and say things are now missing and they wouldn't touch it.. oh only paint was scratched up on 3 or 4 panels- but not the complete car.--- in the mean time because they "could do the 11 windows" I ordered all the stuff they needed from Steele-- Finally I had enough- got my car back- short version- We ended up in small claims and I got most not all my money back ( that was the 1st prof so called certified ASE ( Ithink )shop. 2nd prof. I can finish it for you ( 2017 dec) you take off the rest of the car doors hood/ deck lid ect.. bring'em to my shop I'll prime them and then you bring the whole car here we'll put it back together and I'll put the rest of the primer on it finish any needed body work and paint the whole car at once and we'll take it back to my garage and put in the windows and weather stripping--- No problem sounds like a plan-- but first He needed a huge deposit- no problem --that was Dec 2017- and I sanded the car down to the metal- again didn't ask to have anything taken off--- here it is 21/2 years later,it's back in my hands or maybe wait 'til next year and no protection on the metal and I had to finish putting the epoxy on, and I did that just about a week ago and that's when I found out hard it would be to finish--- with the fumes and my inexperience- heck had to postpone the upholsterer 3 times- and you should know how hard it is to get in to see them---- anyhow that's when I figure there's got to be a way for me to finish- but I just wasn't sure what brands of paint I could put on top of the Mar-Hyde and MP170.- just wanted to avoid Urethanes ( unless in a can) activators and reducers because of the fumes--- That's all just looking for another way to do the next step- which I'm told was the "Urethane Filler- with Activator and Reducer--- I only figured rattle cans because 1 I'm not a professional anyhow so there's gonna be flaws and why spend a ton of money on excellent paint if I can't put in on right to begin with( regardless of how hard I try)- Plus Urethane has a pot life that is very short ( I'm told)--- my breathing alone would or might interfere with that and I may end up buying dbl and working a lot harder redoing stuff. That's why I'm looking for a decent alternative- that won't peel and will stick to the epoxy primer brands already on the car-- Here's a look when I painted the car in rustoleum implement Ford- just to save it from rusting before taking it to the pros----2017( 1ST Photo 16 total cans of rustoleum) 2nd photo- but I wanted a "professional paint job-- April - May - June July and Most of Aug- it took them that long to scuff up only part of the car oh and all the nuts and bolts- tossed into a donut box together ( still trying to figure out what goes with what- like the 2 bolt/screw that holds the stone guards inside the wheel wells 1 bolts to the chassy and the other to the wheel well itself- but nothing fits and no sign of them yet). 3rd photo- down to the metal but doors already stripped bare by me and at the 2nd pro painters place. So sorry guys for all the goofy question, this might come natural for real gear head- but I was a factory rat and a locksmith and a long haul semi driver--- which none dealt with taking over for a pro.... no picture- but like I mentioned it does have epoxy primer on everything now.

Has anyone used Dupli Color/ Krylon and I saw one on the Haderty site called Automotive Restorer( I think) or any other brand on to of the Epoxy Primers I mentioned. Sounds like rustoleum I need to stay away from.. I'm trying to keep away from URETHANE FILLER.. unless it comes in a rattle can

Terry B. I'm sorry but I most not be too clear- ( my mistake) a traveling painter guy doesn't do me any good unless he's willing to get paid AFTER the job is Completed--- I've already lost a sh*t load on deposits and wasted almost a year in the courts on the 1st "professional auto painter". 2,nd you don't mention his name or where he travels too- so again that's no help. You don't mention the brand of paint- and whether or not it comes in a rattle can or adheres to/ sticks to or doesn't peel off-- of again--- Mar Hyde epoxy primer surfacer or PPG-MP170--- that's what is on the car now- and I'm told the next step is "Primer Filler" and again- I have some that is a 4:1:1 and URETHANE- and because of my lungs and very little experience and just want to get the car coated and finished after 21/2 -3 years-- I just want to be done with it- but I'm trying to at least have it look kind of good

To TAKerry-- yes I have priced materials-- I already have a quart of the final coat color- and to put it into rattle cans It would cost about $120-130 bucks and I would get about 8. (15 bucks each can) It's kind of not the cost anymore- it's the cost of weighing- so do I risk it and hope I my wife doesn't beat me half to death for having to run me to spend more money saying high to everyone at the hosp.docs office or put on a decent rattle can job- be done with it- a paint job lasting almost 3 years is ridiculous and I'm not qualified, have the right space , the experience or the lungs to finish it right-. I only put the Omni MP170 on because that's what the auto store recommended-- but the fumes were really hard on me-- then the store said I needed to put "URETHANE BASED PRIMER FILLER ON" that's when I thought I'm either in trouble- because of the fumes or need to start checking out rattle cans- and with my having to start and stop a lot and maybe not continue 'til the next day- got me worried about the pot life or shelf life and sure enough that would be a product wasted and money down the drain-if I had to stop in the middle of applying it... Yes the car is a small land yacht-- or very large tub. I was plan on painting it the original 2 tone with and update of just being the same colors- just a nice metallic. I had no interest in learning to paint a car ... but this kind of feel into my hands- and just kind of tired of losing money and getting it back thru court In short- my main problem right now is what brand of rattle paint FILLER would adhere to the Omni MP170 and The Mar-Hyde Epoxy primer surfacer. ( been told the "filler is the last painting step before the base coat or color coat ( whatever it's called)

To Mr. Higgins- I thought about Maaco and my boy Earl ( no longer around)- Maaco I would do in a flash but there's none close- approx.80 mi. to the closest one and my cars not road worthy-or legal. To Terry B.- Isn't a 2 stage paint -the paint and an activator? Both of which I trying to avoid--- fumes are terrible and were terrible with the MP170 and it was what the store guy called 2 stage ( I think)- The filler he gave me is the "urethane filler", an activator , and a "reducer- 4:1:1: Plus whatever you mention- the most important was you didn't mention several things--- what brand?? Is it Urethane?Enamel? or Lacquer? and sine I mentioned I'm NOT a pro Will those paints adhere to /stick/ not peel off- If I use them with Mar-Hyde Epoxy Primer Surfacer and PPG brand Omni MP170 ( I think that was a "single stage- just the paint and activator) Primer is pretty easy to put on- because you're going to have to sand it later anyhow- so you don't need to be a pro ( it'll save you sanding if you are) joe_padavano-- looks great if I had more than 1 car- (next car I'll have towed to another city after a ton of research) or towed the 80 plus miles to find a Maaco. If I had to do The list of cars you do or did I wouldn't hesitate--- I have at the most- 4 stages left from what I'm told- the rest is just labor and I'm an X factory rat with really bad lungs --so the work so the work won't hurt

I need some experts on this one- 1st what you need to know to answer correctly--- 1. Since 2017 I had a professional auto painter start painting my '48 (2nd) 2020 and all that was done was the hood/trunk lid and 4 doors was primed with MarHyde Epoxy Primer/Surfacer. 3. I will have to do the finishing of it- I explained in detail what was on the car to the Auto Store I was the one that would have to finish the body /roof and fenders and they were down to the metal told them what product was already on the doors and other parts.. They gave me MP170 Epoxy to finish that part--- so MP170 ( PPG) And Mar Hyde Epoxy are both on the car... I was told my next step was to scuff up the epoxy put Urethane Primer Filler on next...... Here's the problem I'm not experienced but I believe I can do it. However I have serious lung issues and putting on the Proper PPE and breathing was hard with the epoxy.......I don't want to use a spray gun to finish the job--- because once mixed everything has a short shelf life-- and with the epoxy I had to take a lot of breaks and use a nebulizer... Duplicolor/ Rustoleum and Others all make a "primer filler" in rattle cans just not urethane based--- with rattle cans I know I don't have to worry about shelf life/pot life... With rattle cans I can take longer breathing breaks and or come back the next day and continue--- I am quite aware of there's a lot of extra cost..... but it's a lot cheaper than hosp./or doc. visits and easier to do than trying find and losing more money on yet a 3rd professional auto painter... Can I put those rattle can filler on and then finish with the same brand rattle can--- I don't want to do it this way- but at this point I'm just watching money go down the drain- the car isn't going to be in a show--- and nothing like being told 3 years ago "Wow This car has almost no rust- then sit and watch it rust before your eyes- surface rust is still metal that gone.--- Once again- right now the car is covered with Mar-Hyde epoxy primer surfacer AND Omni MP170 epoxy.... The finish was going to be Omni - my end goal is to find another way- to finish "WITHOUT USING URETHANE or the spray gun--- It'snot going to be judged or for show- but I do want it to at least look decent....I'll put up photos later- for answers if needed-- thank you guys.

Does anyone know where I can find the Spec./Recipe tech. sheet for getting the correct colors for a 1948 Pontiac ( 4 door) . I have the correct color names and numbers. Blue Lake Blue Metallic and Oyster Gray.. I know I should be able to give the names to the Automotive store- but with my luck It'll be "what they think it should be".

I have a terminal and battery post wire brush cleaner and have made sure both post were cleaned and tighten again- But before I start fussing with it again- I change the battery cable anyhow and make sure they 2 ga ( I think they are 4 ga.) I was also looking a my wiring diagram - noticed there is a wire going from the + on the coil side to the horn relay but it was off and the diagram doesn't show which connection ( post) on the horn relay it connects ( horn relay has 3 post- bottom mark "S" top post marked "H" and the middle is not marked.--- after all this trouble I may just make it a 12 v. But no one around here seems to know how- can't even find 2 mechanics to agree. I bought a classic looking 12 v /alt/gen. from Power Master and it looks just look the old 6 v. I have all the bulbs and replacement headlights. What no one can agree on is- do I need to keep the coil- the voltage reg. does the dist. rotor and points stay-- some say keep the starter- others say replace it--- I get to the resistors for the gauges and clock later ( I want to keep as much original as possible)-- This would be a great time to convert-- there's no headlights- turn signals - no dash in the car yet- basically it's at skeleton phase-

Padgett- you're it IS just the negative getting hot- right at the battery post. What do you mean- "resistive condition".- everything reads okay and battery is at 6.5. There's only 2 areas left that I can think of- 1- Might be a wire that goes from the coil (+) to the horn relay- but even with a coil wire missing- the usually "tries to turn over" and the #2 is That shop I took it to 2 years ago also took out the dash and left the ign. switch hanging with the key- Does the ign. switch itself need to be grounded? Right now it just hangs the and I try and turn it over- but here's the thing- it had been starting with no problem- unless I just wasn't aware that it was grounded.

54Vicky- No Rusty's battery suggestion wasn't filtered out- but it was one of the things I checked and rechecked- It's doing it again today- so there's got to be a short somewhere.

To Cheezestaak2000- Flat ground in the garage is easy and yes tapping it is a good trick- The reason tapping works- is because sometimes - not often- the starter button on top will work it's way loose. But thanks for the info- I'm not a mechanic by a long shot- but over the years I've learned to trouble shoot just about everything on this car- wiring- wipers-turn signals- I just don't do the mechanical stuff. That's why I worked in a friggin factory for the last 18 years when I was employed- to pay someone else- it's just finding the right people in this area, that's the problem. and the ting is most of them charge the same or close- to those guys that take their car to SEMA- like Kindig

Excuse the Truck driver lingo--- But Hot Dog you buffaloes helped a ton.--- I got the boat to turn over-without taking the starter off- I was afraid once I got down on the floor I'd be there 'til all this virus crap was over- no way in hell my wife could help- I'm a light guy @ 265 lb. Oh yeah she would've brought me a blanket and tossed some vittles. So thanks a lot to all. Now for the next trouble shoot. The Ground wire from "Neg" battery post- got hot.--- not sure what that means but again I'll check and recheck ( Pos- post on battery was okay-( not hot) so something must be touching somewhere. Thanks again

If you have been reading the threads- it's push button on the floor which connects to the push button on top of the starter.. Why? I've already decided to take off the starter--- tomorrow