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The 55er

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Posts posted by The 55er

  1. This looks like a pretty nice car in a great color. It's the base model Chieftain and with a production of 26,003 (second highest figure for any model 1958 Pontiac) I don't think it can really be called rare. IMO the interior is correct but the hubcaps (61 Dodge type) and outside mirrors are not. Still a sharp car and it will be interesting to see if it sells close to the asking price. For the record, all 1958 Pontiacs used the one year only 370 cu. in. V8 engine. There were no 389s until 1959. Pontiac automatic transmissions in 1958 were called Super Hydramatics. The term Jetaway was an Oldsmobile-only thing. Not to get into an argument but having owned both 1957 & 1958 Pontiacs in the past, a 1958 would be my preference. 

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  2. I don't know how anyone can determine a car's condition or form any kind of an opinion when there's only one exterior picture of it in the entire ad. $4500 seems very high to me for a non-running 6 cylinder 4-door sedan. It says the price is firm and especially with all the loose ends it would be a big PASS for me. I'd definitely look for something else.

  3. A smooth-shifting Dual-Range Hydramatic is a thing of beauty. There are some external linkage adjustments that can be made and they're explained in detail in a Pontiac shop manual, Hydra-Matic Manual or a Motors Manual. I've had a few cars where the 2-3 upshift wasn't as smooth as the others and sometimes the adjustments in the manual fixed the problem. The shifts should be precise and consistent with no "hunting" for the correct gear. You should follow the instructions to a tee and do them in the correct order. I would write down EXACTLY what adjustments you made so if all else fails you can set the linkage back to the way it was. There might be some trial & error involved but it's definnitely worth a shot, you might be surprised at how smoothly you can get that old Hydra-Matic to shift. 

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  4. Maybe the gauge IS correct for 1948-1949 Commodores? The E-F and C-H with the hash marks might be on a glass plate that's in front of the actual gauge and not part of the gauge itself. The lighter shaded area in the upper left would be hidden underneath and not visible when installed. Just a thought, waiting to hear from the Hudson experts.......

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  5. Matt, thank you, I appreciate the update. I might have a different opinion than most about changing the colors on a rather common vehicle. It's YOUR car, it's YOUR money, paint it whatever color you want but I would definitely paint it a color that was available on a Rambler of that year. Pick a color you like and choose something that goes with the interior. No one will know the difference and nobody really cares. You're the one that has to look at the car every day and live with it. This is a used Rambler station wagon, it's not like you're painting a mustache on the Mona Lisa. However you really should do a complete color change and paint the inner fenders, firewall, door jambs and tailgate area as well, it's definitely more work but then everything looks authentic. I've changed the colors on many of the old cars I've owned and never looked back. A few cars already had a color change before I bought them so what harm was really done? It's YOUR car, do what YOU want with it. I'm more about enjoyment of an old car than absolute authenticity but I do like to keep 'em looking as authentic as possible. 

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  6. Before I respond to this latest question from Matt129, I have a couple of questions for him. Many Forum members have taken the time to respond to his many questions in some previous posts but he has never posted what his final decisions were on any of them. Matt, about a year ago you wanted opinions about getting a 1950 Studebaker to use as a daily driver. Did you ever get the Studebaker, and why or why not? Two weeks ago you were thinking about trading a 1953 Studebaker Champion for a 1953 Pontiac Chieftain and you got twenty interesting responses from Forum members. So did you do the trade, and why or why not? You say any advice is greatly appreciated. How about a follow-up or two from you about the decisions you've made regarding your previous posts? Is that too much to ask before you post any more questions to be answered? I feel like everyone involved is just going around in circles here........

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  7. Just asking if your Packard is a 1956 or if it's actually a 1955. You have a 1955 & earlier emblem on your trunk and I'm thinking a 1956 would have a pod to the right of the steering column with pushbuttons for the Ultramatic transmission. I just want to make you aware there might be other options available to you than spending vast sums of money and having the car tied up for possibly years at some restoration shop. I have several friends that have had very bad experiences with paint/restoration shops in my area. Many promises were made and not kept, large amounts of money were spent with nothing getting done, parts were lost or stolen along the way and one shop even went completely out of business while my friend's car was disassembled and in pieces. There are many good shops out there, just be sure you know who are dealing with. I have no connection whatsoever to the car pictured, I am just posting it for comparative purposes. You say you're in WI and the car pictured is in MN. I wish you all the best and I hope everything goes smoothly with your restoration project. 

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  8. Nice looking car but how desirable or collectible is this particular model? I owned two four-door 1962 Oldsmobiles over the years and there was hardly any interest in either of them. The paint finish looks dull on this one and with the cost of a quality new paint job (8-10K?) you might be spending far more on the car than what it's actually worth. It needs a thorough engine detailing too. 

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  9. Some vintage GM cars used the skinnier (smaller diameter) inside door handles like on the bottom of the first picture. The clips were smaller and this type was pulled out from the top using a pliers-type tool like the one pictured. 

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  10. Most times the setup is as pictured. Sometimes though other more careless people were in there before and installed the clip upside down and it has to be taken out from the other direction. Occasionally the flat washer is missing making it easier to mar or tear the door upholstery. It might help if you insert a small flat blade screwdriver to pry the washer away from the handle so you can get the removal tool located properly.

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  11. You have the correct tool if your handles look like the one pictured. The tool has to be inserted in between the chrome handle and the round flat washer to push the hairpin clip upward. it can be tricky if you haven't done it before. Be careful as the clip can fly off and get lost. If your chrome handle is skinnier than the one  pictured the clip will be smaller and you will need a different pliers-type tool to get it off. 

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  12. I'm not trying to be negative at all but you definitely have your work cut out for you. I'm just throwing this out there for consideration........and I never thought I'd say this.......but this admittedly overpriced 49 Buick Super sedanet near Hershey, PA might be something to consider. I have no connection to this car whatsoever but I have seen it in person and it's a great restoration candidate. It does need some typical body work and the seat coverings aren't correct but it has a lot going for it condition-wise and you might even be able to drive it home. IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCED AND ENJOY DOING RESTORATION WORK I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST WITH YOUR NEW PROJECT. I'm just asking you to take a few minutes to look at the big picture and realize what you are getting into. I know you can fix anything if you put you your mind to it but how much time will you spend and at what expense? I've been called a naysayer in the past on these Forums but I am somewhat experienced at these things and I prefer to call myself a REALIST. The many parts and materials you will need are very, very expensive today.........Just know what you are getting into. Whatever you decide I hope everything goes well for you. 

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