sligermachine

Did u make a way to shape the small bends in the ends I am sure I will need a couple for the next car

getting closer the red striped part is copied from a casting that won't come loose yet from soft top

I have the old wood.The nail holes line up in the sheet metal so I know it's the right part in the right place the old screws do line up with the wood that I pulled off the top hanging in the shop ceiling the cross big part holes line up in the body to but the corner part at the angle it is looks wrong any help out there ? the old rusty screws fit the parts together to ?? at the factory the guy putting this one for got to put a nail or screw from the big crossmember to the big corner part or I am missing a part that goes between them ?-Kyle the part that I added has a red x on it but the other side has one just like it .

Yep 40''x 20 foot I have a cnc lathe thats that big to But all I make is one off prototypes machines--Kyle

Well all I got done this year so far this drill and countersink are my favorite tool u need both all the time so I bought 8 0f them so I never have to move they are laying everywhere all over the car .I have been putting philips screws in that are fast but there for sheetrock not this car I remove the parts so fast using them some of these parts have been removed 25 times wile I remove adjust the cuts move the mounting point so that's why I use the 6'' # 40 size pilot for the sheet rock screws but after I decided its where its staying I us the big taper bit with countersink built in 3 seconds and its ready for a real old screw but I'm trying not to rune the paint job on them so I only want to instal them one time the seat frame is started and the header is installed for peminat .I ended up having to pull the wood parts off the top in the ceiling I copied them with paper but was not sure witch way the top got mounted and for that I needed it in my hand . Now I have the bracket mounted that holds the top on on the left side . one inch at a time --Kyle

pic. 1 test fitting both rear uprights their close pic # the corner part I took it off of the hard top that's hanging in the ceiling of my shop test fitting it its next to get copied pic. 3 the seat back corner at least with this I can mark bottom of seat back form this part its in good shape but only part I have of seat back pic. 4 the hard top off this 1925 hardtop roadster pic. 5 conure finder this one I have used for 25 years I don't see them like this anymore its made by general tools its 1/16 dia. wire pic. 6 moving the angel shape with conure finder it gets it close . pic. 7 the post fits like a glove and my son is getting his rock crawler suspension -drive lines done today yaaaa!!!! have a good new year's eve. -- one inch at a time -- Kyle

Next I would have to draw the mirror image of thes parts to make the drivers door the only parts I had was spit in 2 and I only had half the part missing 3 others I put all the steps to make these doors in a different thread this is the first time I have used any fourm or a computer on the internet I just avoid it all together but this was pretty fun and I needed help I just showed up on this web sight to find a wood kit for my buick and found out none could be bought I have over a hundred pic. of me making the drivers door alone .I did not realize I was starting a new thread every time I put a new heading on the subject sorry about that so I'M GOING to list the names of the threads in the next paragraph --kyle

So many angels I kept the part I was coping with the part getting cut so I could use the old part as a jig of sorts .As I flipped the part I would flip the original . I had enuf fier wood and the hard wood was expensive and I ruined A few parts cutting the angel from the wrong side and the angel would be backwards when u put a protractor to just 2 sides of the part getting copied that is not the angel u are after set the part getting copied on the table now cheek the angel agin it is not the same that's because both sides are at angels I make parts at the shop all the time and this was really tricky more than it looked for shure. pic. this cut is 2 different angels on the same side the bottom of this part it 2 angels also ^ the pic. up 3 is the end view of this part --- being cut . At this point is when I thought I'm going to program my cnc at work to make these parts I bet this part just stops some people from finishing making their door wood themself .-- one inch at a time -Kyle

I just started studying them with a protractor it was full of angels all 8 deg. or 4 deg. as I made my cuts I saved the cut offes to tape back on the cut parts so that part would stay square for the next cut .I figured that's how the factory did it but I was guessing a lot --Kyle

The door hinge post was tore up so I super glued it back together with a lot of clamps trying to get the cracks to line up I really wanted it to copy but it was split in 6 parts at least the bolts had pulled the wood all apart --kyle

I had this door but no drivers door wood to copy

PIcture #1 the only way I could figure out to make that cut that is half done in the background is by hand saw I started the cut with my skill saw and had to finish it by hand. pic. # 2 I thought it was done but it was way wrong but the old ones were really tore up I had to guess at at a lot of dimensions but I just made it fat and figured I could always make it smaller how else could I do it . pic #4 I clamped the 2 together and compared what I knew which was in blue pen and my guesses because the wood was missing were in red ink pen.

I really don't know how I got it to wright nexts to the picture. that is cool though ,so I have never made from scratch a wood frame for a car of this size back when I was like 23 . I made from a junk pile of parts a 1929 ford truck and I bought A wood kit to make that one .I wanted to see how hard it would be to make by hand first ----KYLE one inch at a time

So I'm not sure how much laminated wood Im going to need soI just started to glue some up. I knew I needed some and it wood have to dry and it's starting to get really cold at night

yep that is what I was after--kyle

pic. 1 The finished part, perfect fit 3 angle cuts on both ends to match door post, the seat is going over this part and my old wood shows this part was 1'' thick but at a angle, so I don't know how wide this originally was. The broken wood was just wrapped in wire to stop it from falling apart. This piece of wood stops the whole body from changing shape, when someone slams the door this part is going to take a beating. My cuts are touching the hole post good and tight, now the casting will get bolted to this part and the floor longboards. This is the key part that holds the body shape, I bet on most cars this was the first wood part that breaks and the doors don't look good after that. The car was meant to be used for 5 to 10 years is what I keep hearing from everybody this part is going to be beefy in my car cut to perfection and bolted as best I can pull off pic. 3 A test fit board made of a 2x4 cut to get longer to make test fitting easy it gets longer this board was the hardest part so far in the whole car . pic. 2 this only transfers the basic shape not any of the angels .

The small angel of the wood on the bottom is to make sure no water sets still on the body sheet metal

cowl --- o I get it you could say anything to me I would never get offended I was the one that never passed english !!! some how they connected that with spelling - 7 words red

most people just see words and they make sense to them U would not believe how hard it is for me to spell ---- 8 words are underlined allredy 10 now . --kyle

the hole is at 15 deg up and going 8 deg towards the wall no room for the drill when the drill bit pops out its heading for the wall at a rally fast angle

I Have 8 seat frames that came with the buicks that I bought is the set in the car look right some of them just to wide so that cant be looks like a rumble seat and the ones in the 1925 master roadster drivers seat fit pretty good I would love for some one to tell me just how far from seat bottom frame to some point in car I would like to finish the wood work today next week I have to go back to work and I'm starting to build a new big machine probably barle get to work on the only thing I want to work on U know what I mean ....thank U for any replies A head of time --kyle 1925-44 master roadster

with this pic. I will make the rest of my parts thank u Hue--kyle

with this pic. I will make the rest of my parts thank u Hue--kyle

try adding a washer to the spring that might test good are u using a spring gauge or trying to push air for a test that is all u ever do to a air plane oil relief valve. Just lap it on a plate thats all I would do too kyle