tom61

Hi there, are you still looking? I might get one this week, and start restoring her. Contact me if youre interested Cheers

If you like, there is a series/playlist on youtube by 'Old Crow's Classic Cars' with the complete dissasembly, assembly, study and how the OD works if your really want to understand and know everything about them.

Coley, Wouldn't having the OD on while stopped on a hill be worst than having it in OD stopped on a level road? Also , what I've heard is that the bearings or gears get damaged because of the excessive amount of torque. Also, OD in 1st gear would be equivalent to 2nd gear in standard....wouldn't that stall the engine in a hill? It seems to me that there are 2 main aspects here: Engine and weight....which is all to do with the single main aspect of torque. weight: However, I think this applies more to heavier cars and big engines (R10 was used on some big heavy cars like the ford 427 on the 1600kg/3700lbs Ford Galaxy ). The OD was also used on Jeeps/willys. For the 'light' 1100kg/2200lbs Rambler american, I imagine using OD in 1st gear from a complete stop isn't as catastrophic as crushing gears or rollers. But do notice that a Rambler american carrying 6 slightly overweight people does weight as much as the galaxy without passengers. Engine power: I also think that the torque of the engine also is important here. Those high torque engines with massive clutch plates are able to transmit a large amount of torque to the transmission and hence the overdrive. Thus the engine is basically stronger than the OD. But with the much smaller flat head inline 6 195.5cu engines on the rambler americans, I think that indeed, the clutch would slip instead of the engine forcing that huge amount of torque through the clutch rollers of the OD. Again, this is all suposition from my end, as I haven't actually tested doing this...It would be nice to know if other people have actually done what some many people are suggesting...can you verify that it is actually possible to use the OD in 1st with no obvious damage? Iv'e even heard of people using the OD transmission in light drag racing However, for about $60 to $100(shipping included), you can buy the governor from ebay, so it's probably not worth causing excessive amount of torque on the transmission for $60. The easier you are on the parts, the more they will last right?

Congratulations on your car. My 1st car was a 1963 Rambler American, and I'm in my 20s! I use it daily, and don't have any modern cars. If your driving it as your only Car, your my already my best friend! I get most of my parts through a site called 'RockAuto' which is very cheap, and usually has 'all the parts your car will ever need'. It's also extremely cheap and reliable. If your gonna drive it in Canada, I highly recommend putting a durable rustproofing undercoat. on it!

It seems that there is surface rust on the belly. I personally hate rust, and depending on where you live, rust becomes a serious issue faster than you think. I personally like most other guys here, always try to leave things as original as possible, however I believe rust is something that you NEED to fix. There are 'rust converters' which you can buy in spray cans. I Live in Canada, and My cars all have thick rubberized asphalt undercoating. This will last a lifetime. I think someone mentioned spraying oil, howvere keep in mind that it will only last a few months.Also, a little rain, and a gravely road is all it takes to destroy the oil film and promote rust.

Over here in Canada all the cars I've seen came with the rubberized asphalt undercoating and most of it is still intact to this day. If you want to save money, you can start with 'roof glue' on flat areas, and then use 'asphalt crack filler' to spray crevices. This stuff is exactly what was used back then, and it's extremely durable, and I've used it for years, in the snow and sludge of Canadian winters...and it's not shinny

Originally many cars came with asphaslt-rubber based undercoating, and were certainly extremely durable and heavy duty. I personally like to undercoat my cars with that stuff inside and out. It's commonly called 'rubberized asphalt undercoating'. Just be aware that some of them are not sprayable.

Whichever type starter that fits is fine

Anyone knows where I can buy a manual type srtarter for an S11 De Soto? There are 3 types of starters that fit it: -Square solenoid type -Round Solenoid type -manual/push button type The Auto Lite part numbers I have are MAX 4050 and MAW 4025, which are for the square and round types I believe. Or if anyone knows how I can find the field coils? Thank you

Hi, I need the same starter. Where did you get it?

As for the colour, I'm just looking for a deep black that will provide durable protection and look nice, not expensive rare paints.

Hey everyone, thanks so much for your inputs. I'd like to clarify that Im not painting the steering wheel, I want to paint the whole car. I think my questions resume to: 1) Acrylic enamel seems to be a thick (high viscosity) paint when compared to laquer and enamel. Is single stage urethane as thick as acrylic enamel? 2) 2 stage paint jobs require sanding, polishing and buffing before applying the clear coat and also after the clear coat is applied. When I painted the steering wheel, the finish was nice even without buffing. Is buffing/polishing required for acrylic enamel and single stage urethane when painting an entire car? Thanks once again for all your inputs!

I recently Used a 12oz Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel aerosol spray can to paint a steering wheel and I very much like the result. An aspect that's extremely good is that the finish is high gloss and required no polishing or buffing, which would have been difficult with all the curves of the steering wheel. I'm relatively new to painting, but it seems to me that Enamel paints don't get orange peel (at least from my experience as I said above) and thus don't require the buffing and sanding that 2 stage urethanes do. However it seems to me that single stage urethanes might have the same effect? The Acrylic Enamel did require a few hours to dry completely, but I much rather wait than having to go through the trouble of sanding and buffing. Iv'e also seen people succesfully use industrial Enamels for painting cars, so maybe that's an option. I'd like the paint to look original, so I don't metalics or any of the fancy paints, just a strong and durable paint that's single colour and glossy. Summer is coming, and I would like to paint my Desoto with a black paint. Now I haven't yet found a comparison between Enamel and single stage urethanes, and so I was hoping that someone might be able to outline their differences , features and where to buy them in Canada or online...It seems that it's much easier to buy paint in the States rather than Canada...so If anyone knows where I can find a good paint that's reasonably priced I'd much appreciate it as well.

I have a 47' Desoto. Needs upholstery

Does anyone have the size of the main jet for the s11 Desoto? I'm running a little rich and looking for the suitable main jet.

Thanks guys. I'll look it up

Hello everyone, Just wondering if anyone out there has a 1947 Desoto s11 or similar car and would know what is a suitable coolant for it. I think they used to use water with an anti-rust additive in summer and then 'mopar coolant' in winter. What would be a modern coolant for it? Does it matter at all? Nowadays there are soooo many different coolants out there and each one 'designed' for a specific make .... (good old days when things were nice and simple). Why would some coolants be more suitable then others? Affects on Corrosion, galvanic cell, cast iron engines, etc.... What are your thoughts?

The missing wire from the needle doesn't seem to be a problem however.

I just lowered the float a little more, and I noted that the seat of the needle valve was tightened so much that the little slots where the flat head screwdriver fits in got damaged. whoever assembled the carb used too much force on it...Only to wonder how well the float was adjusted. Its a brand new carb, is this wear on the seat normal or should I prehaps report it to the company?I wasn't able to remove it, even though I exerted alot of force on it. I've attached a picture of the needle, seat and a little wire that attaches the seat to the needle (which came missing with the new carb). I wasn't able to remove the seat from the new carb, while on the old one it came off easily.

The only cause of this can be a float that is too high, or am I missing something?

As I said, the acceleration response is much much better than it was before. Certainly the new engine oil has made a large difference for the better. My only concern is still that the engine won't stall with the idle screw all the way down. In fact, it won't even make a difference whatsoever.

I don't think this carb has a diafragm, and I can't imagine a busted float on a new carb. Also, it seems pretty light compared to the float on the old one. I'm gonna lower the float down another tad and see how it goes. Would you know of a place/website where I can get specs for this carb? I'm specially interested in the size of the metering jets. -Nothing like working on a vintage car while listening to vintage music

Bloo, thanks again for the reply and your experience and insight. I found it strange that they had an extra needle lying there inside the gas bowl and an extra bolt & nut outside. Anyway, I was having difficulty getting it started again, even after changing oil and installing new spark plugs. I even used 'liquid fire' to try to get it started wit no luck. I've concluded that due to the cold weather, any starter fluid that I sprayed in there condensed to rapidly to be able to be ignited by the engine. Also, It seems that the fuel float is still too high (even though I bent it down a tad) as there is still too much gas coming through. Also, when I turn the mixture screw all the way down, nothing happens, much less the car stalling. From what I understand, the car should stall when the mixture screw is turned all the way closed, correct??Also, the spark plugs quickly develop a thin layer of carbon which further suggests to me that the mixture still has too much gasoline. Fortunately thought, the intake manifold no longer floods!! So I am thinking that what I still have to do is lower the float a little more...Or could it be a jet that is too wide?I've heard of jets that are too rich...the manual even suggests to change to a 'leaner metering jet when in locations of high altitude'. So instead of lowering the fuel float I should change the metering jet? How can I tell the difference? Also, Bloo, you mentioned how it is only the vacuum from the engine that sucks the gas in, and the height of the fuel inside the bowl is what dictates how much fuel actually goes to the engine. Can these holes be seen? Or are they internall? I've attached a file that shows some of the symptomes I had, problems I encountered, tests I did and some solutions I've found, if it is of any help to any one out there with a similar problem. Once again bloo, thank you so much for all the help you've given. I'll further tackle the problem tomorrow and let you know of any updates. flooding problem problems, symptomes & solution .docx

I opened up the carb today, and I found an extra screw and nut stuck between somewhere , and a needle valve inside the carb. I know it didn't come adjusted because when it came the idle mixture screw was opened all the way. If they didn't adjust it properly when they should have, I wonder what else could they have done. I bought it brand new from a US company called 'southwest performance parts' The pump is the stock mechanical pump.The valve is the rubber tipped one.Everything seems to be good. I even blew into the gas inlet and no air went in

I have lowered the price to $5000 USD for a limited time, because I need some extra cash