Mattml430

Very nice, yours looks great there. I’m looking forward to trying it out. I’m going to put one on the sedan also after I finish the roadster.

I’ve used the original 3 speed box and fitted the overdrive just behind it. Pete that has helped me with my engine and the rest of the car has done this on a few of his dodge’s and it adds about 10 mph to the top speed. The only reason I’ve done it is so I can keep up with freeway traffic a little better. A lot safer too. He normally fits a DA diff into them also but he thinks with the roadster being a bit lighter our original diff should be good. He has almost finished his Victory six sports roadster also. It’s looking beautiful.

Haha I didn’t see Dukey in the picture there. He loves it when I’m working in the garage. He’s better there laying down he usually is leaning on me for what ever reason. The overdrive is out of a Volvo. Late 80’s four speed. It’s a pretty common one used in a few cars.

My floors are all in and ready for painting. I used 18mm marine ply. I’ll fit the toe board once the body is on. Tailshaft is in and rear bumper and taillight brackets fitted. I have used a modern type tail shaft and universal joints. It’s a bit shorter coming off the overdrive.

Thanks Ian your so right hearing the engine burst 💥 into life is just fantastic. You always wonder what you might of forgotten to put in there or do up properly. Now I can’t wait to give it a run down the road.

Decided today to try get her started. With the electronic ign it was easy to set the ignition timing spot on. It has a little LED when it’s in the correct position. I sprayed some fuel in the carbi to see if it would fire and it did. So I hooked up the fuel and it poured out the top of the carbi , so off with the needle and seat and found a little bit of fibre stuff in there. With that fixed I turned it over a few times , gave It some choke, got electrocuted of the spark plug leaning over to hit the starter and then she fired straight up. Only ran it for 15 seconds or so because I have no water hooked up. Sounds good with no rattles or knocks but it was pretty loud with no muffler. I gave it a few more short starts and it seems great so far so I’m pretty happy and relieved it all goes. started fitting the floors today with some 18mm marine ply.

Haha thanks Ron hopefully John and Horace have been keeping an eye on me. It’s always a little nerve racking on the first start up after an engine rebuild.

Rich has done a beautiful job of rebuilding my generator for me and it’s working well looking at the pics. Thanks Mate My brother drove a bit over 6 hour round trip for me today and picked up my new rims from Steve at vintage rims. He drove out to Kingaroy to get them. They look great and he’s going to send them down here to me. Thanks Mick. It will be great to get them painted and laced up. That could be a good or bad experience. I got all my brake lines , fuel lines and wiring loom clamped into the chassis. Then got my oil lines all hooked up and turned the engine over until I had oil coming out of all the lines and then nipped them up. Got plenty of oil dripping of the chain so at this stage I’m happy I’ve got oil flow through the engine. I might even try fire it up tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed I’ve put the engine all back together properly. It will make a nice coffee table if I’ve screwed it up.

Gee that’s a shame that’s happened John. It was all going pretty well wasn’t it. 😥

That’s looking great guys, if you need somewhere to get it blasted we can do it at my place if you can’t get it done easily anywhere. I can pick it up with the little truck after the lockdown. I can give it a coat of etch and satin black to if you like.

Just us in Melbourne Doug for 5 days at this stage. We have 11 cases or something like that.

Got a pic today from Steve up at vintage rims of them making my rims.

They look perfect Ted very nice job. Ron and I will take 4 all together. If any other Aussie’s want them we might be able to post them all to me and then I can post them on from here. Might save on international postage. I’ll fix you up through PayPal for mine and Ron’s if that works. I think Terry might want one also so that would be 5 to us so far 👍👍

Thanks Ron and Doug. The victory does have a Heat gauge in the dash. Mine was buggered but I have fitted a new one into the cluster. Thankyou Ron for the spark plug wire holder it came up a treat.

Thanks mate. Holy crap they are looking great you’ve brought them up like new. I’ll definitely give them a coat of satin black before they go back together. Do you want me to get any new bearings or anything like that. I reckon I’ll definitely take you up on the offer of an extra pair of hands. I think I’ll sling it up with the forky but a couple of extra eyes lining it up will be great.

Got my gear box in and a few other bits of jewellery on the old girl. Fit the tail shaft now and fix all the brake and fuel lines to the chassis. Shouldn’t be to far of getting the body on. I’m getting a little excited 😜

Here is the seal. I ended up cutting the outer edge in half to get it to sit deeper into the housing. It was to tight otherwise. It fitted very nicely after trimming it down.

I have a 53 Crysler grind on my Cam which works really well in our victory engine I’ve been told. I had to step the cam gear key way by 1.5mm to get the timing correct. when cylinder 6 is at TDC the intake on cylinder 1 had to be at .030” opening. That’s the position it had to be at to drop the chain on. Once it was on I turned the engine a couple of times and re checked the valve and it ended up at .032” which is ok. Clive at Clive cams said + or - .003” is ok. Doing it without stepping the cam gear the number 1 inlet valve was at .009” opening. I hope that makes sense.

Thanks Terry, yes I did the same and through some morry’s in there also. I’ll have the seal today and I’ll post the number. The only one we could find is slightly larger on the ID but it is 3/8 thick so it should take up the indifference on the tapper of the flange shaft. I took a picture of the bearings numbers.

Gearbox is fully re raced and ready for paint after I fit the new rear seal tomorrow. bottom shaft was in almost perfect condition but I have used the internals out of another box I had. Machined oring groves in the bottom shafts to help stop oil seepage.

I’m about to fit the same set up to my sedan so I’ll let you know exactly how it goes. With today’s fuels they don’t need the heat before they go into the combustion chamber like they use to so the cooler we can keep it the better I think. Pete Johnson put me onto the idea and I don’t know anyone who has their 6cyl dodge going as well as he does so I pretty much go with whatever he tells me. He’s been a huge help to me building my engine.

Great video Ted I’ve actually never seen that style shock before so it was interesting.

DC 1-6 is Top dead centre for cylinder 1&6 and EX CL 1-6 would be exhaust closed for 1&6. I imagine that would be for setting the cam timing. I could be wrong.

This is on my flywheel Terry.

The writing on you flywheel is opposite time mine. Is your marker on our Drivers side Terry. Do you set it at exhaust closed on your marker to drop the chain on. Unless it’s one of those photos that flips itself around just to trick us. Ign 1-6 is for setting your spark before top dead centre.