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Posts posted by Mattml430
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7 hours ago, Minibago said:
Ok!! I’ll admit I’m obviously confused 😂
Im sure when we were searching for wire wheels there was a set with the same centre as the victory, but the lock ring was on the inside. Let’s just stick with them being on the outside. 😂
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13 hours ago, Minibago said:
On the outside.
I think I’m thinking of the senior wire wheel. It has the lock ring on the inside.
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1 hour ago, keiser31 said:
Am I missing something? I don't see a lock ring on the wheels. If that is the case, simply remove the tire and tube as you would from a bicycle wheel.
I think from memory they were on the back.
but I could be wrong.- 1
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This car shouldn’t really be travelling on a main road. It’s obvious it was bought as a parts car to fix your one that was crashed. There appears to be more air than metal in places. I just think you could be endangering others taking that on the road.
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Made this one just the other day to do that exact job.
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I’ve had to pretty much ditch the whole radiator and I found another one I had here that was In much better shape. I’ve pulled it all apart and cleaned it up hopefully to make Bobs job a little easier and not harder, I hope. 😬
It all seemed to clean up nicely so I hope it will be ok for you Bob.
The outlets on this radiator were great.- 5
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I’ve got some repairs to do on the radiator before it goes up to Bob next week.
the bottom outlet is a bit worse for wear. I’m going to give it a sand blast in the morning and hopefully I’ll have something left to repair. the top outlet is a bit better but still needs some building up.- 3
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I was talking about these.
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Yes agreed Tony for whatever reason I was thinking about the ones bolted to the running boards. The others I would also call kick plates.
I always thought the ones on the running boards with the little kick up were for scrapping mud of your boots .
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12 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:
I'm curious about those mud scrapers...
I'd seen them on aprons before on several makes and never knew what they were called. I've mostly seen them with a set of step plates so I'm curious now, 1.) were these from the factory or were they an after market piece from someone like Imperial Brass and 2.) has anyone ever seen them on any 1928-32 era DB trucks with any other DB script like in the 2nd photo below?
This is all I found on the guard plates.
It is stamped RN. Most likely was a Victorian or South Australian casting company at a guess.
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45 minutes ago, 30DodgePanel said:
I'm curious about those mud scrapers...
I'd seen them on aprons before on several makes and never knew what they were called. I've mostly seen them with a set of step plates so I'm curious now, 1.) were these from the factory or were they an after market piece from someone like Imperial Brass and 2.) has anyone ever seen them on any 1928-32 era DB trucks with any other DB script like in the 2nd photo below?
I’ll have a look in the morning for any branding on them anywhere.
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3 hours ago, Jack Bennett said:
Good luck Matt.
What a great project, especially if there are some youngsters to include in the rebuild process.
I am attracted to the completeness of the car, albeit is missing the doors, seats, and some other essentials, I note, even though there are no running boards, the foot scrapers are still installed, and look in great condition.
Thanks Jack.
Finding a youngster these days that’s interested in anything other than their phone and themselves is almost impossible. Very sad really.
The car is 90% complete, the doors were with it just not on when I picked it up from Ben’s place. The kick plates and mud scrapers are great aren’t they I’ll be just giving them a light sand blast and a polish and Nickle plating.
I have 3 boxes of parts on the way from Tom & Cindy so once that arrives I’ll be onto the chassis rebuild. -
18 hours ago, nat said:
As Mike said it would have depended on the body builder and the car. I would imagine they would have had templates for each model and cut each car from that. I’m very lucky with this car all the timber is pretty much there but just full of wood borers. So I will be removing the affected pieces and cutting new pieces from the old.
Around the wheel arches I will be laminating thin pieces of ply to get the desired thickness and shape. It will be stronger than using just straight timber as with such a curve the grain gets very short across the piece.- 2
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3 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
All I'm saying is you better have all the wrenches shined up ready to rock and roll. Enough of the lollygaging.
All I can say is bugger all will get done when he’s here because of all the gas bagging that will be going on. 😂😂
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4 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:
So Matt, what is the ETA on Ron?
About the end of July I think.
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I have seen the ceramic seal leak if they are misaligned. This is why I put these in the press to get them as accurate as I could.
I have also seen the lip seals wear a groove in the shaft. Might be ok on the stainless, a bit of lubrication would definitely help prevent that.
I fitted a mechanical seal to my 6 cylinder engines water pump.- 1
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56 minutes ago, Minibago said:
I have new shafts made here in Adelaide with the correct drive keyway orientations.
This pump has been repaired at some stage, it also has a stainless steel shaft. I think Cled use to sell them. I wonder how Cled is going.
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8 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:
Are those ceramic seals, Matt?
Yes they are Doug. 5/8 water pump seals.
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53 minutes ago, Minibago said:
Nice job Matt, could the original nuts be used to hold the seals in place?
It’s possible I guess, I think you would need to machine the inside of the nuts so the mechanical side would fit through it. Doing that would also look neater by covering the thread. I could still look at doing that.
I’ve pressed the seals in and also put a bit of loctite on them. They are very tight in there. By pressing them in they are parallel with the gasket surface. -
I got the pump back in temporarily today. I think it should all work it was pretty tight. the ceramic part of the seal is 1”1/16 on the outer rubber.
Turning the centre out to fit the ceramic seal.
I made some brass lock bushes to hold pressure on the seal.
The seal is just a 5/8 mechanical seal.- 3
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7 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
Look like post '24 touring cars to me, yes DB. The roadster looks like early '20's. Notice the gear shift extension. Remove knob, put on extension and then replace factory knob. They are a casting.
My old 27 had one of those extensions on the gear stick.
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Engine is undercoated ready to piece it back together so I can send it to the engine builder.
Im thinking I’ll spray a little bit of colour in behind where the starter generator goes before its sent away.
I started on rebuilding the water pump this afternoon after I had to get the correct size mechanical seal.- 4
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Thanks Nige , I have a few also but it’s always worth trying to repair them if possible I think. I’ve been successful repairing this one and hopefully I’ll have it all back together tomorrow.
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25 Dodge tourer restoration
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
I have received all the bearings, pins and bushings for the complete chassis and running gear.
so I’m looking forward to getting onto rebuilding the chassis gearbox and rear axle.
complete set of 24 dodge chassis bearings and bushes.
King pin bushes and washers
Spring shackle pins and bushes. Front wheel bearings and steering link bushes. Gearbox bearings and lay shaft. Rear axle bearings.
Differential crown and pinion bearings.