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Mattml430

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Posts posted by Mattml430

  1. 6 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

    Matt, if I understand correctly you need to belong to a club to get discount antique insurance too. Is that correct? A friend in NZ said he was not allowed any rust to get registered. And all welds were inspected, even on the body. Could not be ground before inspection. 

    Our insurance doesn’t really come into it. You can insure with anyone that will take you. I’m with Shannon’s because they specialise in older cars. 
    we don’t need to have welding inspected for a safety certificate. No rust is allowed though. 

  2. Thanks Dave. Over here we can have the car on a club permit. It has to pass a safety check or road worthy certificate. You also have to be a member of a car club. It’s preferable to keep the original chassis number but if one cannot be found the DVM will issue you with one. 
    Close up I can see these ones easily. 
    A club permit can be for 45 or 90 days of use per year. We need to write down our travel destination every day we use the car in a log book. 

    • Thanks 1
  3. 4 hours ago, wowsk said:

    Appreciate the offer nat.

     

    Another thought I had today was using the spokes from the old 25" wheel that have the correct hub bore with the new steel felloe from the 24" wheel. I'd have to cut 1/2" off the end of each spoke and reshape them to fit snug in the 24" felloe. It'd take a while to get them to fit snug but I look at it similar to shaping a handle for an axe. Use a wood rasp and take your time.

     

    Any thoughts on this idea?

     

    Thanks,

    Noah

    You would have more luck machining the centre out. 
    I have an old metal lathe set up for cutting the dowel on the end. 
    I also have my tool cutter shaped with a tapper so the last part of the dowel that enters the felloe goes in really tight where the hole has been pressed. 

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    • Like 1
  4. I’m doing 8 sets of wheels at the moment. I have built a machine to machine the centre perfectly centre of the wheel. I would also not recommend trying to do this without the proper equipment. After pressing the spokes in I centre the wheel on the machine table, face both sides and then machine the centre for a press fit of the hub. IMG_3562.jpeg.733c16f94171d44ea07e2c3a53fdbef3.jpegFacing the spokes after pressing 

    IMG_3566.jpeg.1c346d8552df1ad762c8ded3244ab655.jpegMachining the centre for the hub. This is a tight press fit. IMG_3564.jpeg.3afc23093e5af2786d3c642056f14e20.jpegIMG_3565.jpeg.8e2083a69deed56659eb30dbaaf3598d.jpeg
    Machined ready for hub. IMG_3563.jpeg.baf510484eea0f54734114cc5718b279.jpeg

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
  5. Chassis is all finished painting and the engine will be ready next week so I’ll get that in and probably just fire it up for the fun of it all. 
    The engine will need painting first before installation. 
    IMG_3541.jpeg.e4b6061bff46d9c078ace2ab65f64b4b.jpegI made sure the chassis number is clearly visible for when it comes to get the club permit for it. 

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    • Like 7
  6. The wheel came this morning with a bang. It was a cold morning here this morning so I put a little more pressure on the puller and put some quick heat on the hub. Took about 2 minutes of heat and then it shot of the axle and hit me in the knee. I was to the side of it just in case but it still managed to belt me one. Was well worth the knee pain getting it off. 
    So I was able to get all the new bearings into the diff and tail shaft. 
    The brake shoes are off getting relined and will be done next week. IMG_3494.jpeg.20291d1f195161c9c926c3e28369c763.jpegWheel finally off. 
    IMG_3496.jpeg.cdcfc7a6b130add51ad7fbaf7d93e70f.jpegbrakes before they were removed. IMG_3499.jpeg.f4194eeed0a0d1d592b286168994b5f6.jpegDiff out and cleaned up ready for its new bearings. IMG_3500.jpeg.e5a1663a0a586abc53614cd5862f2d26.jpegcrown wheel teeth are in beautiful condition. IMG_3501.jpeg.b2cdbe177125cb1645b32b56d9da83f2.jpegIMG_3502.jpeg.d7fdbd493926a63f286b40df83b4357d.jpegIMG_3503.jpeg.6399769ba609247203803ac42ec1fcab.jpegMade some dodge’y special tooling to adjust the bearing carriers a bit easier. IMG_3506.jpeg.991b57d079831b7ff441a007840b49cd.jpegTail shaft with its new bearings. IMG_3507.jpeg.35c63aa92b64c146ee85bedef5e52a59.jpegDiff housing cleaned up ready for re assembly 

     

    Springs have been fitted with new bolts , bushes and shackles. 

    • Like 3
  7. Got back onto the 24 rear axle today. One wheel came off easily but the other one is just not being very friendly at all. I’ve had some good pressure on it for a week or more. Tried a bit of heat on the hub today but she just won’t budge. I’m using a hydraulic 3 jaw puller on the hub which isn’t ideal but all my hub puller are to big or to small so I found the correct size today on eBay. It will be here early next week so I’m hoping it gets it off. Can’t remember one being this stubborn before. The left side is all apart and ready to get new linings on it. IMG_3458.jpeg.128158bb1e6daf5a6508a72d1d097cd1.jpeg
    71385139161__7A110C33-6C3E-4787-8262-25FFD796721F.fullsizerender.jpeg.3389665078f98064e3a56a1bc9a46c05.jpegTapper has been cleaned up on the axle and new bearings and felt seals ready to go back in. They are solid old axles. 
     

    • Like 1
  8. Unloaded it all today and got a bit of hot wash cleaning done. The body and chassis are in great condition with not much work needed on the timber work either. IMG_3426.jpeg.d51493e5f1e72ea0bc4b20c6769f9724.jpegbody off ready for a clean. 
    IMG_3433.jpeg.37894b08ea8d60051122058cf67a91e2.jpegIMG_3432.jpeg.0697550e82d78df98e66a6f1176b3dc6.jpegblasting 90 years of crud off. It sets like concrete that oil, grease and dirt  IMG_3444.jpeg.2307ac65a529300a5c61d9b95d85dae7.jpegIMG_3445.jpeg.3c532ab2d5d094441bfbba82ad0df578.jpegIMG_3447.jpeg.fa898d7a373ae2e25d30e0780a8b2284.jpegBody cleaned , dead animals and bones removed. It had all original upholstery on it or what was left of it. 
    IMG_3418.jpeg.8a385602768552182100af9ee0a0f427.jpegIMG_3419.jpeg.e762804392887a99c6784cc50bbaaadc.jpegseat back. IMG_3437.jpeg.5470f3d1f1887e04cb54faae515e72ea.jpeg10 wire wheels most with lock rings. 
    IMG_3397.jpeg.aa96e3c129753c9cbe63b3d04c897440.jpegBrand new hub caps. IMG_3400.jpeg.1f39f361505e63119eaa058fc6daa212.jpegHeadlight are in almost perfect condition. 
    The bar will need to be re Nickle plated. IMG_3403.jpeg.83af64c22a66fcf2101b92a46ad80116.jpegThe radiator has good flow and no leaks. Will do a light pressure test on it. IMG_3402.jpeg.ae6e812fa88510a0ce46afcea02352cd.jpegRadiator surround will need some TLC to get it back. Has some rust down the bottom. 

    • Like 7
  9. 3 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:

    Devils advocate here...

     

    Is it a Touring or a Phaeton? Looking at The Dodge Story and comparing it to the cars on page 67, it looks like it's a Phaeton.

     

    If it's a Phaeton then there can't be but 1,000 or less of them produced.

    If that's the case, then why not just hunt for a original late 20s panel body or complete a Phaeton project with what you have? I think the group would still learn just as much while respecting the heritage and history you'll be salvaging. After all, isn't that what we are trying to save as being members of the "club"?

     

    Awesome project, and I commend you guys for taking this on. 
    Good luck and enjoy!

    The other body is in a bit worse shape so it will probably be the one we sacrifice. Trying to find a panel body here would be very hard. The back section has to be built to health standards on the inside. So while it will look old outside the inside will have to be to what the health department standards are for serving a bbq and coffee. 
    I have built many food trucks for Melbourne so the inside will be done by myself. This is the other body IMG_3387.jpeg.b2562248a72764ffd819f1b84a1743c4.jpeg

    • Like 3
  10. Our club is going to build a coffee van  / bbq van. For our rally’s and events we have. 
    Jude and I picked up the 29 DA dodge today from South Australia. We got 2 cars,3 engines 10 wire wheels, heaps of guards, 2 radiators one brand new core. And a heap of other bits and pieces. The body is in excellent shape with almost no rust. 
    The wheels are also in great shape and we have the drums to suit them. IMG_3389.jpeg.fbeaa0131be71b9f237f97857f1cd026.jpegIMG_3390.jpeg.34fc6ac4eb9edf885ecd57f0f1be1655.jpegAxles. IMG_3391.jpeg.2ee566540898baeb67048f55ffcfa514.jpegwire wheels IMG_3392.jpeg.25271ef4a346c8bd0516ee5d41b189d9.jpeg1 of 3 engines. IMG_3393.jpeg.7bc81bfe93e4778e04adc2af91b7781e.jpegtourer body complete with windshield bonnet and engine curtains. IMG_1914.jpeg.87d50b35e6f4aa37ae282a6e3cf9d357.jpegend result will hopefully be something like this. 
    Im hoping to create a bit of interest with club members to get on board and give a hand with the build. Basically anyone that wants to learn a thing or 2 and be part of it all. 
    Not sure how long it will take. 

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1
  11. Side curtains are finished. They fit much nicer this time round. 
    We found when driving with them on the bottom use to blow up and let cold air in so this time I have put a piece of stainless steel inside the canvas on the bottom edge. 
    IMG_3365.jpeg.6a7149b9025c5c2fe81fadd11d29e668.jpegthis is the piece slid in with a slight curve on it. IMG_3364.jpeg.5f37a4a9a0da6c15df8a9f97ad33c6bf.jpegSome pics also for the screw police as one of them was here the other day ready to arrest me. (Rich) not mentioning names. 

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    • Like 4
    • Haha 1
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