keninman

My GL uses the UX2, the main body can be bought for about $700, the whole carb for $2250. As for the engine I have seen a post that showed what paint is correct. I used Rustoleum Army Green, I am not planning on showing the car so it is close enough for me. http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/marmon.htm

One thing that I did was replace all of my bulbs except the headlights with LED. Even the 3 dash, 1 tail and brake all use some current. It really reduced the load on the generator. I also put LED bulbs in the parking lamps, these would be quite bright enough for a parade I would think and draw nearly nothing. I have left mine the bright white for now but I do have a spray coating I can apply that will give them a more amber appearance like an incandescent if I decide to.

I have seen this car sitting on a trailer in Anderson, IN for a long time now. I finally stopped and checked it out. I have no idea what it is. The motor, transmission and driveshaft are not in it. It looks like someone has done some custom work. Kind of a neat car. I thought I had taken a picture of the front end but when I checked my phone I had taken a picture of my finger. I am assuming $1,200 does not include the trailer.

There was no calibrating wire in mine. It would have been quite useful.

As far as I know we don't have DMV inspectors here in Hoosier country. We have a form the police fill out to verify the numbers on the car match the title, city police if you live in town, sheriff's dept. if you live in the country. On these old vehicles that are so unlikely to have been stolen they don't seem to care that much. You may have to get a lawyer and sue for a quiet title. When the court awards you ownership I assume the DMV will be forced to assign you numbers you can title with. You have your bill of sale and Indiana title, I can't imagine why a lawyer can't get this done pretty cheap.

If NC is like Indiana then all you have to do is get a cop to verify the number is there, I can pretty much guarantee they won't care if you put it there or not. If they do show them the title or copy and the engine number.

Do you have an Indiana title that uses the engine number? If so then see if you can have this stamped into the frame / body or a plate mounted to the frame /body and use that. What they are probably worried about is someone swapping an engine which is probably quite common, especially with rat rods.

I lubed the pump shafts well with Texaco water pump grease. I used our well water which does not have any lime but does have a bit of iron and mixed 60/40 water to Tech 2000 EG antifreeze. My hydrometer says safe to -20 and it never gets that cold here. I also made a cap gasket out of cotton material so it fits snugly now. The weather has really cooled down but we drove many miles last weekend, temperature was in the low 60s when we started and fell into the 50s before arriving back home. We did not experience any foaming. I next plan to remove the thermostat and change it to the winter setting and perhaps block my louvers to force warmer air under the cabin since I don't have a heater.

I would like to help but from your pictures your switch is different than mine.

I would think a volt ohm meter would go a long ways. Make sure you have power first then run through the positions. I would start with brights, dims off then parking. I think your's are marked on the steering wheel. If it is like every other switch in the car then it should be quite simple to tear down, clean and put back together but I would do this only as a last resort.

I would think a jig could be easily made.

Boy I'd hate to be the driver for the test with no floorboard or seat.

Okay, I'll bite, how does one lose both front doors?

I do believe that the business that did the work for you needs to make this right. Take the tank back and tell them to replace the plug even if they have to take it to a machine shop.

So is the Speedometer in Miles or Kilometers per hour?

My GE Dictator also has this cable. I have wondered about the reasons for using this cable since I don't think the shell is bonded to anything like a conductor. Was it for protection against animals that would damage the wire or perhaps to prevent accidental damage that would result in a short circuit?

I have found that rubber gloves give you a much better grip.

I used a terry cloth rag to cushion my big channel locks to remove the hub caps.

What if in the course of trying to remove the lock cylinder you destroy the lock? If your's like mine is in the unlocked position it is probably best to let sleeping dogs lie. Put in a hidden ignition switch or battery cutout if you are afraid of someone stealing it. However someone smart enough to drive it already knows enough to steal it without a key. Myself I have opted for the battery cutout, most people will not have the time to circumvent it and I have the added protection of avoiding the more likely scenario of an electrical fire. p.s. when I left the car in my 84 year old mother's pole barn, I hid the coil wire.

Here is an interesting question, what do you do with the old antifreeze? Do auto stores recycle it? Pour it down the drain ( I can't because I have a septic system)? Pour it in the creek behind the house (does not seem eco-friendly and will probably destroy aquatic life)? Dig a hole and bury it? Take it to town and put it down someone else's drain? How does one dispose of used antifreeze in the US, especially a very backwards mid-western state like Indiana?

Our gas prices in Indiana leaped to over $2.50 a US (gallon = 3.79 liters) yesterday. Perhaps because we have had a couple of oil rigs blow up in the last week. It had been hanging around $2.20 - $2.35. At the worst of the financial crisis it never got to $4 per gallon. I myself worry as electric vehicles keep progressing that it will one day be as hard to find gasoline here as it was in the very early twentieth century. What then will we burn in our antiques? At least Indiana is corn country, I guess I can make distill some ethanol or convert my buggy to LNG. As for hand signals, they still teach them in Indiana because so many cyclists use them. (p.s. not bicyclists, Harley Davidson and Indian riders)

I don't think I would need any turn or hand signals in New Zealand. At $5.67 (US) per gallon for petrol and since my car gets less than 10 US miles to the gallon, I would just have to leave it parked and see if I could afford to wash and polish it.

I originally researched whether I could use Dex-Cool in my 29. I have found a couple of articles about it. One in Car and Driver, Top it Up with Green? Or Orange? Which Antifreeze?. The other appeared in the Chicago Tribune, Keeping Your Cool Over Antifreeze Use. Both articles are over 15 years old so may be out of date. There is also a 2006 article on the Consumer Affairs website, GM Owners Still Steaming Over Dex-Cool - Corrosion, Engine Damage Blamed on Coolant. It looks like GM lost the lawsuits and agreed to pay consumers for engine damage caused by Dex-Cool, GM to Finish Paying Dex-Cool Class Action Settlements. I believe my 08 Trailblazer has Dex-Cool in it but not for long, I will be going back to Green.

That is the method I have been using, also avoiding busy roads or driving at night.

Well, I don't need to worry about damaging my paint, it is already shot. The car had been running fine with plain old antifreeze until the trip into town. I have water in it now and no problem. I have some Texaco water pump grease that has arrived and 1/4" graphite packing on the way. I will see about repacking and greasing the water pump as soon as I am able. It is usually mid November before we get much of a freeze risk in the Indianapolis area. I also have another problem in that my radiator cap gasket is shot. I have a stop gap measure of using cotton material to fill the extra space, it won't create a pressure seal but should prevent any foaming from spilling onto the hood. I noticed that it did it worst when I let off the gas and hit the brakes. I also plan to mix no stronger than 60/40. If I calculate right this is 1.5 gal water to 1 gal antifreeze. Since we seldom get colder than -10 in Indianapolis, and it hasn't been that cold since 2004 I should be good to go. If I have a foaming issue again I will dig deeper. One thing I did learn from studying is that under no circumstances should you put Dex-Cool in any car that does not specifically call for it and especially not older vehicles because it damages the soldered radiators.