Wheelmang

Hi Marc: You may wish to look up a National Wheel and Rim Distributor. The clamp you have is very similar to mid duty truck front wheels with open center rim clamps that were in use at least into the 90's and maybe even later. Many of them will have specs for clamps that will match yours. RH Scales in Boston, Chesapeake Wheel and Rim in Baltimore or Cincinnati Wheel and Rim in Cincinnati may be a good place to start. Not sure who there is West Coast. Paul

Looking for a Georgia 1926 license plate (tag if your not from the north). If anyone has one please let me know. Thanks Paul

An update on my adventure. Finally got the drift pin out, by drilling it out. The key way was also on a bronze bushing that was pressed into a bored out portion of the original impeller. As if that wasn't interesting enough, I dropped it once I had it off the shaft. See the picture! Myer's to the rescue. Tom had an original that has the 5/8" bore with a key way. Other than that the shaft and gears are in great shape. I measured approximately .001 vertical/lateral movement on both the pulley and impeller end. Will reassemble as soon as new/old impeller arrives. As to the seals. I spent a significant amount of time searching seal supplier web sites and catalogs for something that would fit the .625 shaft with a .875 bore and had zero results. Guess i'll stick with the original style packing.

Ray - looked at your posts. Very interesting reading. Mine still has the original and fully functional leather disk drive for the generator(dynamo). Pretty cool. If memory serves on this type application there should be about 5 - 7 thousandths clearance between a shaft and bushing. Will take your recommendation on replacing if any more than that.

Thanks Ray. It is more the originality than the budget but I do hate spending money I do not have to. Can't help it, it's my heritage. Guess I will take the shaft completely out and check for grooves. (If anyone out there has OE spec diameter for the shaft, bushings etc, I would appreciate it) I am having some difficulty keeping it running. It will start great but then soon stalls out. Possibly it is the dwell that is varying? All is new inside the distributor and the points are set to spec. What are you getting for a dwell reading? (Yes - I still own a dwell meter) I presume your shim was only a few thousands? Headed to the search now. Your info is greatly appreciated Paul

Thanks for your feedback guys. Ray, I am curious about your recommendation to replace the shaft and impeller and upgrade to seals and new bearings. Is this just a matter of principle as it is apart or did you see something in the pictures that you were able to diagnose? Don't want to spend money unnecessarily plus I am trying to keep this as original as possible. It is a survivor car and I am only the 3rd owner.

The water pump packing is leaking on my 26 DB. I have pulled the water pump and distributor housing assembly but cannot figure out how to get the pin (short of drilling it out) out of the impeller. The pin appears to be a relatively soft metal. Almost looks like someone drove a headless nail into the hole. Also the impeller appears to be pressed on to the shaft as well. Would greatly appreciated some guidance on rebuilding the water pump. I would also like to remove the drive gears for the shaft and distributor in order to do a thorough cleaning and paint of the body. Are those gears pressed onto the shaft? The impeller looks to be a pretty rough casting. Is that normal? All comments/guidance greatly appreciated. (With all this experience I am gaining I may someday be a worthwhile contributor instead of just a student) Paul

I am interested in the opinions of the membership on using No Ethanol gas in my 1926 DB. It is readily available in my area, albeit about 50¢ a gallon more than regular. I believe it is in the 91 - 93 octane range (not positive on that number). Would utilizing this be beneficial, harmful or of no consequence in a vehicle of this vintage? Thanks for looking Paul

I was planning on taking the amp guage out for cosmetic cleanup. Guess I'll do it a little sooner. Thanks for the tip.

Perfect info Robert. Exactly what I needed for the carb info.

It has good spark when just turning it over. Nice blue jump from plug wire to engine at about 1/4". Newly rebuilt distributor with points and condenser. can you please advise on how to check the coil? Thanks for the suggestions.

Yes all clear after the rebuild. thanks Paul.

I disassembled, cleaned up, made new gaskets and reassembled the carb on my 1926 DB 6V. It looks real pretty but - still presents the same issue as before i took it apart. The car will start right up and run for a minute or so then stall out. It will not restart again for a day or so. I put it back together exactly as I took it apart but I am unsure if the carb is assembled the correct way as I see evidence of someone else being in there. Is there a set of instructions somewhere for the rebuild of the carbs on these. Am I possibly going down the wrong road in suspecting the carb is the culprit? I am also suspicious of the linkage setup. The gas pedal linkage is attached to the top part of the carb. That looks to me like the choke. Could someone please send pictures of their linkage setup? Thanks for looking.

Found the nut. I think it was much easier to access this by just taking off the intake manifold. It was only two nuts and they came right off. Also gave me a chance to blast and paint the manifold. The nut was a square nut and I was able to reach over the engine and hold a screwdriver on the driver side while holding the nut on the passenger side. Thanks all for your guidance on this. Now on to the next issue. Please see my post on carburetor.

Thanks All. I will pursue that avenue tomorrow. I guess one of my concerns without the plates in place is the possibility of increased dust and dirt in the air intake. Is this unfounded? Also would appreciate your comments on higher octane no ethanol gas. This is a very interesting discussion thread!

Thank you for the great info. It looks like the recommendation is to find a way to reinstall this shield some how. Also, I am planning on using No E gas. I believe it is in the 91 - 93 octane. Is that a good idea? I really appreciate your excellent feed back! Paul

Thanks both for the comments. I wish it was by the road. That would imply I had actually been able to take it for a ride. There was definitely some kind of attached to the screw. It had to be unscrewed to take the plate off. My main concern is it ends up loose and bouncing around for future damage. I can always tap the block for a new size screw.

I have the carburetor out of my 26 DB for a rebuild. I noticed that the, air intake plate??,was loose. So I took the screw out to see what the problem was. Evidently the nut that was on the back side of the inner plate was not attached to the plate. I unfortunately discovered this at re-assembly. Anyone have any idea where it went and how I can get to it? Thanks all for looking!

Are you sure your "J" isn't a 0 or an 8? They get hard to read after 90 or so years.

Hi Dave: Thanks for the response. I am hoping to find something a little closer to home in order to save $$ on shipping cost. However, if you can please give me an idea on price, I will find freight cost estimate. I'll try also giving you a call. This also raises a question I had not thought of. Do you know, (or someone else reading this,) what years and models are 100% compatible with my 1926 DB 4 door sedan? Thanks all. Paul

Thank you for the pictures. Very similar except for the addition of the air filter. Wish mine had that set up. Did you use some kind of clear coat on the brass or just leave it natural?

Sorry - 1926 DB 6V

I am looking for an axle housing for a 1926 DB 4 door sedan. I will use a complete assembly with carrier, brakes etc. if that is all that is available. Preference is something located in the SE so I can pick it up. I am located in NW Georgia. Thanks all.

I just about completed the rebuilding of my 1926 DB carburetor last night. I love the look of the brass portions of the body. A PO had painted everything white. I assume that was not original? Can someone please post a picture of what an OE looks like? Thanks all. Paul

Thanks all for your valued comments. I must be looking in the wrong places. In my book of information the only thing stated is retard for start and advance afterwards. Thank you for clarifying the lever position. I can pretty much guarantee that the original set up is no longer there. I am not at my manuals right now but I (gulp) presume that there are set up instructions in print for the linkage etc.? Some right now is held together with twisted wire so I know it is poor at best. Thanks again Paul