Jim Nelson

Hi Tinindian, (Like the ID ) Thanks for the info. This is my first forea into mechanical brakes. So, I have been filling my poor old (75 year and climbing) to understand what and how those braking systems functioned. Interesting, the 1935 Buick has a vacuum powered machanical brakes. I find that quite interesting. I usually try to educate myself on a new (to me ) system. That way, I can always take a different path to solve an issue. I must have a good braking system living where I am. If its not adequate, then my next step is to do like the manufacturers did and went to hydraulics. That becomes the option if I need to go there. I try to look before I jump. Open roads are not an issue. I live with 2 million idiots here in Tampa Fl. area so brakeing is first on my list of enjoying my ole 35 Buick Vicky. Model 35 - 58. Around here, 50 mph will get you run over serious like. 45 mph gets you out of the subdivision but after that, you better be able to go 60. I am going to install over drive as that solves a bunch. I have a 38-46s as my primary road car. That lets me go 65 mph and only turn 2350 rpm. Great on the engine and is much better on fuel. I do that all day. I took my ‘38’ w/ OD and did a 1600 mile trip no sweat . OD made all the difference. Lloyd Young passed back in Jan. but his machinist is carring on. So all is not lost. So my ‘35’ Vicky will get the same treatment as my ‘38’ coupe and allow the new (to me) car to have an easy life. My personal limit is never run over 3000 rpm. Except in an emergency -?? The old straight 8’s don’t tollerate higher rpm’s. So I set the car up to run around 2500 to 2600 rpm for cruseing. JMHO.

John D, I can do most anything I need to. I've built three airplanes (two pax) and flew 23 + years - helicopters for the Army. Not much buffalo's me I was raised that "if you can do , I should be able to. So, since I live in a very warm ? part of the country, you need A/C in your vehicle to survive the summers. Our Tech guy for our club has A/C in his '38' coupe . Thus, if he can do it, so can I. I used many pix of how he did it, and with a few changes, I also now have A/C in my old Buick. Again, if you really want to drive and enjoy your great old car from the '30's, you do what you need to to enjoy. Its fun to show your car to the younger folks and show them how much modern cars have made life easier and more comfortable. But you still can drive with the group and and turn heads as you keep up with them. Yes, I know, its not original. But I just can not keep my Buick in the garage for 6 months while the weather cools down. For local driving and long trips up north where it is a bit cooler, I can drive and enjoy.

Well, I live in a very busy part of Florida. The Tampa / St. Pete area has around 2 million idiots in it. Just to drive ? back roads ? means you need to keep it around 45 mph for around 6 blocks and then you stop and start it again. That said, you can not drive that way. The roads here point you to the 4 thru 6 lane roads to get any where. I will definitly have over drive. That way I can drive it and keep close to the NORMAL traffic speeds. Having the vacuum boost mechanical brakes will be very interesting. I will test and see how effective they are. I'm told that if I have them 'tuned' up, they are quite effective. I just sold a very nice 1937 Business Man's Coupe. It had 1-3/4" wide brakes. Once I was getting;ng ready to turn left in a turn lane and the guy in front decided to stop short. I had to climb on the brakes and I was not happy as they seemed to fade during the last of the stop. Had he did it sooner, I might have either had to dodge him or get stopped. I have a '38- 46s' that I modified the brakes. As you know, most of the braking effort is done by the front brakes. My coupe is a Special with the 1- 3/4" shoe. The Century has 2" wide brakes. So I got the front brakes - drums, shoes etc. and set up the front brakes with them. Now, that mod is not seen anyway. You would not know the mod was there. But I know have about 14% greater braking with my mod. The rear brakes remain the original 1-3/4" shoes. No change there. I can now get on the brakes if I need to and feel more comfortable stopping. Now, as I have stated, we are full of regular idiots done here. You know, the place old people come to die. "T" bone accidents are common. The old folks just are slow reaction to the increasing traffic we have each year. Around 1000 people move here every day - - - -. Then the tourists come for the weather. They are lost most of the time. Now you get the picture of the traffic. The other mod to my braking system on my '38' is - - dual master cylinder system. It is really easy on the Buicks systems. The rear brakes are on one system via the single brake line from the splitting block. That line goes over the torque tube on it way to the pumpkin where it splits to each wheel. The front has two lines separate teach wheel. Those are joined just after the dual Master Cylinder. I had to install the line pressure units to keep some pressure on the lines. The orininal system keeps pressure on your brake system if you did not know.. So If I have a brake failure, at least one system will slow down my car before I hit them or the post or ditch - - - :-))) IF you want to drive your Buick , and I do, it is a mandator change for me to have. I drove from the Tampa area to the Nashville Tn. area two years ago. A 1600 mile round trip and did not have a problem. Felt safe while traveling rear back roads and Inter State at 65 / 70 mph. Yes I have over drive in that car. With OD, I drive 65 mph and the engine turns only 2350 rpm. Nice and easy cruise for the long drives. Our Buick Club has get togethers where I need to drive usually two days to get there. My Buick can handle it easily because I set it up that way. This is a snap shot of how I drive my car. With my new acquisition which is the '35' vicky, I will get it set up to at least handle long trips. Over drive is a must. Glen took over Lloyd Youngs over drive modifications if you want one. The cost is reasonable. I've done the 'change of the third member' but that proved more expensive. Be sides, the over drive lets you drive with the original 3 speed until you get around 38 mph and then you switch on the OD and off you go with good speed and lower fuel consumption. Pix and details on my installation are available. Buick said the car was capable for that kind of travel and I believe it. Details if you want them. Hows that for a short, how I drive my great ole '38' coupe.

Hi John, I am a 1930’s kind a guy. Design’s and the massive engineering changes during that time keep me enjoying how some manufacturer solved the problems their way only to have the next guy improve on it. Then the changes in manufacturing of things like all steel bodies, hydraulic brakes, safety glass and just the great designs. Why some manufacturers held off important safety items like hydraulic brakes untill 1940 (Ford). I love Fords designs. My favorite is the 1934 3 window coupe. I personally have a 38 - 46s coupe. I like coupes. I just bought a 1935 - 58. It is called a “Vicky”. So I am very into the changes Buick was trying and suceeding with. If you would like to bend an ear with MHO, Its. Oldbuickjim@gmail.com

Hi John, Thanks for the comments. Would you give me your e-mail address? I would like your opinion on some other things. Mine is : oldbuickjim@gmail.com

Thanks. I’m at Mayo Cilinic for acheck up. My friend, who is arranging for the transport of the Vicky,, is out of town. Something came up and he had to go. I’ll let you know details.

Tony, give me your e-mail address. Some how the oil filters did not get in my car. We need to put those in the Vicky’s trunk so they don’t get lost. I’ll also call you on this.

I had a 37’ coupe that I just sold. I changed the third member to a 3.41 : 1. It is a 1954 third member. A 3.6 ratio is also a good road gear set. It was a bit more expensive a swap. My ‘38’ has over drive. Of the two, the OD is less expensive. While installing the OD in the torque tube, you can (should) replace the pinion bearings. This lets you replace the outboard axel bearings while its apart. I can garantee that the outboard bearings have not been serviced since it was built. My carrier bearing were like new. If you want to renew the rear and keep the 4.44 gears for hill driving, the overdrive option is the best. IMHO, I now drive my ‘38’ with OD and cruise 65 mph while turning 2350 rpm. Details , pix to show. Oldbuickjim@gmail.com.

Pont35cpe: Nice sedan. I just became a ‘35’ 58 series owner. With my ‘38’ 46s basically done, I needed to get a new project. I have always liked the lines of the ‘34 or 35’ Buick. The Vicky (58 series) has always turned my head. But the Buick engine design people need to be - - well, forced to drive it and try to repair it till they died. What a design - just to try something else - I think. The ‘35’ - 41 sedans with the series 40 engine that made more horse power on basically the same displacement was the winner. To become the very popular 243 engine. Then all the way to the 263 engine.

Pix are available on my mod if you arevinterested. Oldbuickjim@gmail.com

Bruce, that was a good solution. How did get the - crank - water pump - a/c compressor belt tensioned ? I guess the a/c pump is on a moveble mount. But doesn’t tensioning the c—wp —a/c belt change the alternator drive belt coming from the a/c pulley ? This is still a nice solution. I just finished my mod to drive the a/c compressor. My solution was to get a sesond w/p pulley and weld it to the original pulley. This creating a two groove pulley. The back groove lines up with the crank and that system - - crank - water pump - alternator system functions normal with the alternator being the tensioning device as normal. Now the second groove on the w/p pulley drives the a/c pulley. The a/c unit is mounted on two bolts allowing it to tilt away from the engine. The a/c mounts that are on the engine side are the push upward to tension the a/c drive belt. I’ve just got it up and running in our normal Florida summer weather. I have been on a hunt for a 1935-58 Buick “Vicky”car. I have this thing for two door cars. I found one in southern Tenn. and I just got it and getting one of the private car haulers to bring it home. Busy - busy or I would start watching the damn TV.

I have a ‘35’ 58 Vicky. I am modifing the brakes to hydraulic for safety reasons. This is to be a driving car. Mandatory to have hydraulic brakes in my world. Possibly use the brake system from a 1936 Buick ? I would like to hear from anyone who has done this safety mod. Maybe use the 1936 torque tube rear axel with the hydraulic system in place ! Both rear’s have the leaf spring mount. I would possibly have to replace the front spindles from the ‘36’ that has hydraulic parts in place. Since I would need to add a master cylinder, I would install a dual system MC. Front piston to the front brakes and back piston of the MC to the rear brakes. What am I missing ?

I have done this to my 263. I took a second water pump pulley and welded it together. Removed the center section so the modified water pump pulley now has two grooves. I took a 3/16” steel plate and mounted it to the front two head bolts. Welded two tabs to become the pivot point for the compressor. Put an angle bracket to support the mounting plate. The back (original groove) groove still handles the water pump and then the alternatar and back to the crank. The front groove on the water pump pulley is now only running the compressor. I have pix to give details. My first try was using a single belt drive, but not the best with water temp issues. Solved.

Thanks Tony, I enjoyed the visit, looking forward to getting the “Vicky” to its new home. It took a.while to get things arranged and it was nice to do a. “hands on” inspection and the drive around your area so I could listen and see how it run’s. I’ll get you the detailson the “pick up” when I get back from Mayo.

Hi Dynaflash, I I’m looking at that one. I will be going to see it next week. The biggest negative is the engine. It the 1931 design. That has the thru shaft on the generator that then runs the distributor and then runs the water pump. The water pump then runs water thru the oil cooler / warmer on its way to the engine. The 40 series of the ‘35’ car introduced the 248 design. That is the better choice as it has the downdraft Stromberg carb. The 50, 60, and 90 series all have the Marvel updraft induction system. That is why the 40 series is better. Of course, IMHO only. Having to much fun .

I sent one to netcom.com. Did it work ?

Wow, your a Pierce Arrow guy. Lloyd Young has two, if I can remember. His auction is this month if you are interested. Lloyd had a bunch of different cars he was collecting

Grimy, Would you give me your e-mail address. There are several questions I would like your opinion on. My address is oldbuickjim@gmail.com

I have a 38 46s with. Ta Ta - - Lloyds over drive. I love it. It would be the only way to own a 34/35 Buick and drive it. The 38 with the 40 series rear had a 4.44 rear but with over drive, I can cruise 65 mph and turn 2350 rpm.. I got to know Lloyd over several years and miss him and all his over drive knowledge. Glen had been doing Lloyds machine work and has picked it up. So if you want one, he is listed in Hemmings or let me know and I have his phone. Send him your third member with the torq tube and will put an over drove in it and send it back to you . The rest is easy to hook up and your going to really appreciate the OD system. I drive mine on 100 to 200 mile trips .

I found that the 40 series of the 34-35 Buicks had a different configeration / desinged engine. It had a design that became the 248 design. It used the Stromberg downdraft carb. The others all used the Marvel up draft carb. The 50,60, and 90 series engines had the generator, distributor, water pump and oil cooler - all operated on a single inline driveshaft on the right side of the block. An interesting car made in the 34/35 depression time period.

I believe the 1934 had a trunk shelf in back with a seperate trunk. Where the 1935 had a built in trunk like later model’s. The service manual says ‘1934 - 1935.

Yup! After I enteted the original Topic, I clarified the want. The word “Vicky” did a better definition of the car I wanted. I have never seen a 38-68 Vickey. The service manual lists it. Interestingly, the 1934/5 40 series cars used a Stromberg downdraft carb. The 50 and 60 series engines all used the Marval updraft carb. The service manual has lots of details to help you choose which series you would like. I checked out the Marval carburetor and its a very complicated device. The Stromberg won that contest.

Also maybe a 34-48 would be nice

Looking for a 1935 68 series Vickey.

Marty Roth, Are you monitoring this foreum on 1935 buicks. ?? I am looking at a 35-58.