EmTee
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Posts posted by EmTee
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The head looks nice; I hope the hardened seats don't cause any trouble later...
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8 hours ago, Buicknutty said:
As I'd mentioned we could not get the gas tank back in no how, no way with the original straps.
I've had that happen before after lust dropping the tank to repair a leak. I wound-up installing longer than stock carriage bolts and then cutting off the excess after getting the tank tightened down. I wonder whether your tank 'ballooned' a bit from pressure testing after it was repaired...
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16 hours ago, kgreen said:
Now let's hope the story's told on this forum about lousy tubes and faulty tires aren't heading my way.
I bought a set of Firestone 7.00-15 bias ply tires and tubes from Lucas for my '38 Century two years ago -- so far, so good. I've put about 5K miles on them and they are performing well. Ignore the ridiculously low pressures specified in the shop manual; they are too low. I'm currently running 35 psi in front and 32 psi in rear. I experimented and wound-up with the current values being the maximum before I started to notice an increase in ride harshness.
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I have also heard V-belts make a 'ticking' noise.
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If the cover is anything like the lifter galley cover on my '38, it's very sensitive to alignment with the block. I spent a fair amount of time determining exactly where the cover needed to be before I installed it. Also, I used Permatex gasket maker to adhere the gasket to the cover first, before applying the gasket maker to the other side of the gasket and installing the cover paying attention to placement. I also added neoprene washers between the cover bolt washers and the cover after noticing leakage from under the bolt heads before disassembly. Maybe some of this also applies to your water jacket cover...
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I locked the bypass valve closed on my '38 Century as described above. I'm running a 160° thermostat with a re-cored original radiator (high efficiency copper). My car runs right at 180° according to the gauge. It will, however, creep up to ~195ish when stopped idling in traffic on a hot (>80° F) day. The temperature drops quickly once moving again, which tells me that the original fan isn't very efficient by itself. I will say the blade pitch looks pretty 'flat' and there's no shroud. Coolant is a 50/50 mix of distilled water and Zerex G-05 antifreeze.
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My '56 Chevy was originally registered (NY) with the engine number used as the "VIN". When I swapped out the tired 265 for a 283 that number was no longer attached to the car. Fortunately, when I did that 45 years ago I was able to have the previous owner (my grandmother) sign an affidavit attesting to the fact that the serial number on the driver's A-pillar belonged to the same car. That allowed me to replace the engine number with the body serial number. I have no idea what would happen if I were to attempt the same change today...
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I think this is referring to locking the bypass valve in the thermostat housing. I installed a piece of copper tubing inside the spring that holds the disk to lock it in the closed position (minimum bypass). Even when 'closed' the space around the circumference allows some coolant to bypass the radiator by design. My '38 shop manual says the space is equivalent to a 1/2" diameter hole.
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11 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:
He started with a brand new 80 gallon horizontal tank. The pump is a two stage DeVillBiss with a 5 horse electric motor.
That's a monster! Do your neighbor's lights dim when that beast kicks-in?
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4 hours ago, JohnS25 said:
But I definitely make sure to open the secondary’s on some of my ether cars that have Holley carbs on them. Mostly because it’s fun, but I like to get some fresh fuel in the rear float bowl 😉
Ha - I use that excuse for the outboard carbs on my tri-power Grand Prix!
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(Sorry - I couldn't resist...)
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Went for a ride today.
71° and windows down - all of them!
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Sounds like we're playing Jeopardy on this thread...
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I obtained the schematic for the radio in my 1938 Buick here: https://antiqueradioschematics.org/index.html .
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I don't know about the carburetor on your car, but the ones I've seen typically the vacuum port sources vacuum through passages in the carburetor body or throttle body above the manifold gasket. Maybe @carbking can comment about the Stromberg on your '35 Buick.
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Interesting that Ford went with a column-shift rather than a stick in the console. My father had a '57 with the 3-speed which was shifted on the floor.
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2 minutes ago, Dan Hales said:
Any advice?
Yes!
1. Pictures - lots of them, inside, outside, engine bay, trunk...
2. Location (general area)
3. Known issues (running & driving vs. parked for 20+ years)
4. Price
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I replaced the leaky vacuum advance diaphragm on my '38 Century with a rebuilt one from Bob's Automobilia.
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Check your vacuum advance diaphragm. Use a hand-held vacuum pump and verify (1) that it holds vacuum and (2) that the breaker plate moves freely without binding. While you're at it, make sure that the braided ground jumper is in place between the breaker plate and distributor body.
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Sounds like you're happy with the new spray gun.
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For Sale: 1960 Buick Electra 2dr Hardtop - Black - "Drives like a cloud" - Warren, OH - Not Mine - 3/19 & 2/20/24 Reduced - 5/1 Increased - 5/3 SOLD!
in Buick - Buy/Sell - Not Mine
Posted
Outside looks nice, but it needs a new interior...