EmTee
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Posts posted by EmTee
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I think (whatever that's worth) that you have the right idea. I would use 12's long block and dress it with the accessories from 50. The immediate concern I have is whether the intake & injection components are compatible with 12's heads. If there's an issue, you may be forced to use 50's heads on 12's short block. If that happens you'll need to have 50's heads reconditioned and milled to remove any distortion from the overheating episode. Hopefully the 12's long block can be used and fitted with the other pieces that came in the car originally.
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Those patterns could be really helpful to others down-the road. Is there any way you can save and file them for future reference?
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Nice, however, I don't see any dice...
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20 hours ago, Leif in Calif said:
I like that VW a lot better than the Monte Carlo Corniche!
Ha - I actually saw one of those in the flesh last winter! I had to search the web to figure out what it was...
http://coindispenser.com/story.html
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20 hours ago, Leif in Calif said:
The "eco" crowd loves these< and runs them on used cooking oil from restaurants.
Yup, there was one that showed-up in the parking lot at work for a few weeks a couple of years ago. It looked pretty tired, but nonetheless was still on the road. I think these are at, or near, the top of the automobile "hard to kill" list!
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How 'bout a faux '40 Ford?
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Oops - forgot to move the towel!
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'68 is the one to have, IMHO. I also like the naked roof...
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Based solely on my foggy recollection (disclaimer) I'll say that 'semi-gloss' seems about right. Back when these cars were daily drivers I don't recall any high-gloss finishes under the hood -- unless the car was recently purchased from one of those used car dealers who sprayed everything with that clear-coat that made even the radiator hoses and fan shrouds sparkle...
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Maybe modify a set of Firebird fender flares to fit the body? That won't be cheap, but if painted to match, they would look like an extension of the fender.
Since they normally sit at the front of the wheel opening they would have to be installed on opposite sides (i.e., L->R & R->L) to fit behind the wheel.
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21 hours ago, Lahti35 said:
I do still have a slight miss now and then which is puzzling as the vacuum gauge is rock steady.
Fouled spark plug or bad HT wire?
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48 minutes ago, BlueTA said:
It hits 2nd gear really hard and almost throws me into a skid.
Check that you have good vacuum to the modulator.
WRT the vibration, I would definitely look for a cracked flexplate, loose torque converter, bad U-joints or stuck driveshaft yoke.
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Mud flaps really detract from the lines of the car. Maybe consider using something like this instead...
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchgard-Clear-Protection-84-inches/dp/B004VFYCZE
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9 minutes ago, Turbinator said:
Im not too bad with a coat hanger and acetylene torch.
As a youngster I was always amazed watching my father do that!
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Here's a picture of the feed to the rocker shaft. This is my '38 as it was when I received it. There is a fitting missing that fits between the block and the line. As a result, mine had a slow leak. I was lucky that Leif (on this forum) had an extra one that he was able to send me.
Here's a picture of the fitting and the screen that goes into the hole:
The tube screws into the fitting above and provides the mating surface to seal the tapered collar on the supply tube. The fitting also has a smaller orifice than the ID of the supply tube in order to restrict the amount of oil that is supplied to the valve train. Check that this fitting is present on your engine, as unrestricted oil flow will flood the area under the rocker cover could be a reason for oil leaking from the valve cover gasket.
Final (correct) configuration below - no leaks:
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Here's the mirror photo from Matt's post above:
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Probably the nicest one on the planet...
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Maybe clearance the valve cover fins rather than modifying the A/C bracket? Would cutting a 3/16" channel in the fins for the "L" of the bracket to sit in work?
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That rear glass alone would be worth the asking price to someone with a nice example of this model...
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Yes, but I should check dwell and timing again before this year's driving season.
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I still miss reading Doug's posts.
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9 hours ago, 1937-44 said:
Does the temperature drop if you remain standing still but run the rpms up?
I didn't really try that, since increasing the fan speed would also increase the heat output of the engine, which negates some of the benefit. Temp was always under 200° F, so as you pointed out, the coolant didn't boil (despite the unpressurized system). That was after idling in mid-80° heat for 20 ~ 30 minutes. Once moving again the temperature recovered quickly. Also, note the temperature sender sits at the furthest point from the water pump, so the coolant flow is undoubtedly minimum in that area, particularly at idle RPM.
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For Sale: 1976 Cadillac Coupe DeVille - "Second owner, Super clean" - "Nice colors" - Arlington Heights, IL - Not Mine - 4/15/24 Relisted and available
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
It is a striking color combination. My problem with this car is it's BIG! This represents the point where the universe had expanded to its maximum and the following year began to contract...