offdensen

Will consider doing this. Seems a lot better than my rudimentary lock that I made out of a cabinet lock and a piece of stainless steel. It keeps the honest honest, but that's about it.

Replacing all hoses significantly reduced the rattle. Thanks all. Still curious as to what valve everyone uses, though.

That is how mine looks. My brake booster connects to the front of the engine where is says Nut 100-150. I put new hoses on everything touching the T connecting to the pcv. I can go to the store tomorrow and buy more hoses for the brake booster and vacuum resovior. Idle is at 480rpm.

I will stop by a parts store on the way home and try this out. Will report back my experience later tonight. I also have cruise control and there is a t in the line between the valve and the carb base, so I guess I will replace everything. Can't hurt. And to clarify, yes this is a problem when the car is running at idle.

So it's normal? Just seemed pretty loud.

My pcv valve is rattling on my 63 with a 401 and I was wondering what others have experienced with this? I am using one I got from oreillys. The one that was on the car was the same and I replaced it because it rattled too. At that point I assumed it was normal but now I got some time on my hands so I figured I would see if there was anything I could do about it. If the rattle is avoidable I would like to ask what part number or brand you are using? And yes, it is installed correctly. It only does it at idle.

Feel like you guys should be detectives on forensic files. You can wear roa badges and everything.

That about answers all my questions. Never owned a dynaflow before and this has been educational. If anyone else has anything to add feel free to

I checked the idle with a tachometer I have on my timing gun and it's reading about 480 (only does increments of 10) so I think that it's good. It's not a real rough shift, but its just different than shifting into drive. Hard to explain. Shop book says 475rpms or 525 with a.c. pump.

What was the design rationale behind the sudden change in the shifter being pndlr to Prndl? Also in regards to the use in tanks: nothing but the smoothest cruising for our troops.

How smooth is this transmission suppose to shift? When I shift into low it won't shake but it will send the car forward, or at least it feels like it. Sometimes it does it when going into reverse too, but its not really noticable unless you are anticipating it. No problems going into drive. Knowing you can get 180k actually gives me some piece of mind. How do these last so long?

So I've never owned a transmission before where reverse was last on the selector prior to this and just had a few questions about it. 1. Isn't this strenuous on the transmission to go from a forward gear to reverse without having neutral in between? 2. Is there any special protocal to using one? All I've read so far is just to use the low gear sparingly 3. How often should this transmission be rebuilt? X miles. Just a few questions I had, figured this would be the best place to ask.

Was curious what one would need multiple organ transplants at the same time for. But on the topic of transplants many here would transplant a lot of the custom work done here, but what is 1 thing you would all keep? If you had to. Also how do you all feel about a dealer selling on consignment(probably) instead of the owner?

One of the problems with custom work is that it's done in the image of the owner. So they need to find someone who wants that same image, which can be difficult. This work isn't permanent though

I've actually never heard of that brand before. Anyone use this stuff?

thank you for the response. I don't know why it wasn't showing. But I still wouldn't mind getting even more insight into what people use.

I was only able to find a forum asking this in regards to a 55 Buick and decided I would ask it here. If there is a thread already ask this in the roa section then please direct me to it. anyways, I have a 63 Riviera and as the cap says to use type a transmission fluid I read that the dextron III that is the new type A fluid is not good for power steering for whatever reason. I have read of people using dextron III and regular power steering fluid of all brands and I wanted to get a consensus as to what you riv owners use. what fluid and brand do you use for your power steering? Does it matter?

when I was 19 I bought my 63 after working for my family all through high school. Well worth the wait after I saw one at a car show when I was younger. One thing I noticed at car shows was a lot of people sitting in chairs not near their car looking at people from afar and i asked my dad what they were doing. He said they were there to show off to one another and make sure nobody breathes on their car. I try to let others enjoy it, but drum brakes are too scary for some. I never understood why to sit by the car and instead make my way around and mingle. I don't like to sit for long. It's awkward at times trying to relate to what is mostly an older crown but I get it done. is 20 considered to be apart of the youth movement? Also have a friend with a 66 t bird and it always has problems. Think I understand the bad reputation now.

Thanks for the tip, I found a topic made by Jim Cannon and followed a link to the subject Looking at the pdf it says that it is for 1963 for 4400, 4600, and 4800 series. Isn't the riv a 4700? Perhaps there is another bulletin out there as well to correct it for the other models. Again, starting to think that my shop book was just printed way too early on, but interesting nonetheless.

Right above the battery and in between the steering pump and the Positive wire are two circular indents, very small. Seems like they line up to where the support bracket is in the book for the first picture I showed and these may have been placed to show where to drill, though they seem spaced narrowly. Anyone know if there is another reason for these? Maybe just a result of manufacturing? These very minor details interest me very much. Also my Shop book is circa 1962. So it was very early and its possible it was printed too early for them to correct the mistake and change the picture in the book to the one that bodayguy posted, if his is newer than mine.

anyone have a 64 or 65 chassis manual they could look in around the same area as this one? I am quite curious if it is the same in those books as well. If not then this may have been something that was changed at the last second for the 1st Gen and they hadn't corrected it in the book.

To answer, no I don't have the support bracket in the picture (wish I did). Also for you first Gen riv owners if you go to look where this goes in front of the battery on your car you can see two small indents where I believe were spots for where the screws would go for the support. At least I have them on my 63 anyways. I don't know for certain what those spots are for but it makes sense for them to have had a purpose. will take a picture when I get home tonight.

I haven't seen many Rivieras in my area but when I have they all have the glass optikleen bottle installed below the two horns to the left of the radiator, as does mine. I never really gave any thought to where it should go as this seemed right, but I was flipping through the 1963 chassis service manual and I found a picture that made me think of the placement. I searched a few times on here already to see if this was asked and couldn't find anything besides questions asked about the correct decal for the bottle, so apologies if this has been asked before. At the bottom of this picture you can see where it says Riviera. In this picture it places the glass bottle in the 3 prong metal holder that I've seen in all other Rivs and puts it on another bracket that elevates it above the battery. Is this another bottle that came in conjunction with the bottle placed under the horns or is this a possible other placement for the bottle? Has anyone seen this before? Is this actually for the Riv? I have yet to see it in this place and am curious if anyone has seen this placement before?

I need a new choke housing for my 63 riv with a 4 jet rochester on it but I think that the choke housing on it is the wrong one. It's 7024707. It has the number 44 on the inside and the plate on the inside of the choke housing has the number 98 on it. anyone with one of these carbs know the part number? All help is appreciated

This was it, thanks for the input everyone! Very helpful site indeed.