offdensen

I am checking while it is idling, when I check it when cold it is over full. There is definitely fluid in it, but somehow the thing shows empty on the first pull of the dipstick after driving it. Before starting it for the first time of the day it will always show something on it.

So ever since I owned my car it has bewildered me as to why nothing shows up on my transmission dipstick on first pull. It's a 63 with a dynaflow Go out for a ride, come back home, pop the hood and pull the dipstick. Nothing will show up on it. I put it back in and pull again and it reads full. Sometimes it will read half on second pull but if it put it back in then the 3rd pull will read full. I never considered this a problem since the transmission shifts well and doesn't slip, or leak, so what does this mean? It doesn't make any sense how there could be nothing showing and then read full after putting the dipstick back in. Could this be a breather issue? Should I be concerned? Can film a video if you want.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone here leave their parking lights on when they park at night and go into a restaurant,down to the shoreline/ect? I think the parking lights on the 63 looks pretty cool and it's a shame they aren't used often. I'm too concerned with the battery dying ?

Just make sure you got the roa sticker on your car, that'll scare them away and make them think twice

I've been weighing my options for a kill switch but in the mean time I've always just opened the hood and taken the coil wire out. Ain't going anywhere without it, at least I can hope

I did some calculations, my Speedo is 23-27% faster than what is shown on my GPS at higher speeds. So above 40mph it's innacuracy becomes more apparent but I have become used to it. Lower sppeds the accuracy is spot on. I know how fast I am going based on what the gauge says at this point, but an accurate gauge would be great to have so people in the car with me stop thinking I'm going near or over 100mph all the time. On the other hand, if I keep it like this it's like it is measuring kmh instead of mph

I have the dynaflow in my 63, only reason I put a 18 tooth in was because that is what was in there originally. Is there something else that could cause the Speedo to move too fast? Maybe the Speedo lost tension? I will try looking into the hole next time i have it on the lift.

Speedo works again. Cable seems to move pretty freely but is really fast. Might need a different gear head with more teeth. Anyone have an equation or something for figuring this out? I'm working with 18 teeth and the Speedo reads 45mph at 40mph, but 80mph at 65mph. I brought it up to 80mph and the gauge read 120mph. As much as I'd like to scare passengers with my innacurate gauge I would prefer a accurate reading. On the topic of leaking from behind the dash, I would imagine that graphite powder can't leak, so that might be a good upside to using it.

@Jolly_John Curious if the tube says what the lube is made of? Obviously that stuff works, or else our rivs wouldn't have working speedos from the get go. I will try the graphite first since i already have it and see how it works. Getting the cable in the mail today.

Thanks, will follow that procedure

Do I only puff into the sheath, and not the cable itself before reinsertion? I would imagine I just use half the tube on one opening then the other half on the other opening, since it really isn't a big tube. Can it be overlubed?

Old one is broken. And graphite, like for door locks? They have stuff like this at the ace hardware down the street from me. Comes in a tube, or spray can.

I need a new Speedo cable for my 63, was looking at rock auto and was wondering if it was the right length and if anyone has experience with them? Also what lube do you all use? I pulled mine out and it was really dark, looked like grease but that seems a bit thick. Please be specific with the lube part, really want to get that part right.

I pulled the ash tray and behind it is a plain color plastic plate, but it isn't touching the console. I think I will try to stuff cotton balls between the plastic and console, to act as a sound buffer and see of that helps.

Picture for locational reference

A part of the center console on my 63 is rattling. It's the plate on the center console that has the light and wiper control knobs on it. When it tap it with my fingers i can hear it rattle too. If it rattles while I am driving I can put my finger between the lights and wiper knobs and the noise will stop. What could cause this?

Yeah, I got no problem with the temp control lever. Only one I have problems with is the air control and left driver side vent control. I will reconnect and see if relubing the blower control will do the trick. It does seems like it's caught on something, but moves freely after it passes the point it is on.

The air control valve on my 63 is the type with the push-pull lever and the linkage that weaves through the firewall has become difficult to operate. The linkage popped off from the lever and I took the dash off and hooked it up once more. I lubed the heater control next to the blower on the firwall and it worked smoothly for a few days. One morning it was hard to operate again and the linkage popped back off from the lever. I would imagine I need to lubricate this cable, or something. How should I go about This?

I think the moral of this is that some cars are similar to each other and it's not necessarily a bad thing. And some cars make minimal changes between years that increase or decrease appeal.

Those two nuts were it. Thank you all very much. Wish it were as simple as my 63. (4 screws and tada)

Thank you for linking that. I got that clip off that you mentioned and it is still stuck. I will use this diagram to complete the removal and go over every bolt listed in the picture.

So I read advice on taking off a 73 dash pad on these forums(pretty similar I assume) and followed the step by step instructions and got most of the dash pad loose. I am now having one problem and I can't find out what is holding the passenger side corner to the frame. Literally the entire dash pad moves freely and I can lift up on it but the single corner where the passenger ac vent is won't budge. when I try to pull on it it brings the bottom portion of the dash that is made of metal with it. I felt around with my fingers trying to find how they are connected and I couldn't feel any bolts. What am I missing? Do I need to take the ac vent out? Note it is only the corner doing this, I can lift up the dash on the problem side towards the windshield freely. I would consult the shop book but it is currently on a fed ex truck and arriving next week.

Guess if the riviera was a 63 or 64 with the indents for the horse shoe trim it would have another similarity. But in the auto industry people always pull inspiration from another source, and sometimes outright copy and paste and just slap their own emblem on. I don't think ford copied from Buick or the other way around, it was probably a coincidence since a lot of things from that time had a coke bottle styling and general that's what people in the market for cars wanted. I don't think anyone should be surprised that older cars had some similarities because by today's standard all the damn things look like clones of each other. And yeah, as time goes on you see more similarities between gm stuff.

So I was able to get the gear housing out of the dynaflow and I can't seem to see how to get the plastic gear out? I have attached a picture of the housing. Any and all help is appreciated. I'm assuming the answer is in plain sight and I just can't see it.

Should only be 4 bolts or so that hold the cover on. No prep works needs to be done before removing it, just take it off and get a flashlight. Is that a 3rd gen rivi?