PWB
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Posts posted by PWB
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Greetings
On a '73, is the rear window lower molding solid stainless?
I have to ask because I see a on-line partial image of one that seems to be pitted as chrome does.
Thanks much
Paul
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8 minutes ago, 68RIVGS said:
Hey Mr. Paul - Can you measure the height of the chrome mast portion to the black bezel insert, fully retracted, before it finds a new home, please 'n thanks !
Well, it is sloped so I posted a pic with scale:
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Most all re-popped cables flex in a twist and produce a lower read out. They're simply not as good as original.
An old timer speedo repair man told me that.
You're better off getting an old (un cut) one from the junkie.
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Manual, no bends, driver appearance.
You pay shipping
Thanks
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Fantastic info guys.
Over time I've forgotten more than I've learned! A lot of - ooops I knew better.
I'll use all this good advice and keep you all posted. May take a few days as I don't have every tool in the world.
I was spoiled in the military by free use of the auto hobby shop. I miss that!
(Ran out and bought my first compressor yesterday)
When shes fixed I plan on swapping for a boat tail. Their prices are getting ridiculous, however. 😑
Paul
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Tilt for floor shift models.
This is for a Riviera. I'm betting it fits other models.
Spring and bearing feel tight.
$300. central Florida
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52 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:
99 per cent probability that the timing chain has jumped........no need to rebuild the engine!
Best way to check that is to get #1 to TDC compression stroke and relate to 0’ correct?
(before tear down)Thanks
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3 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:
what's wrong with your engine?
I dont know yet.
She started running intermittently rough a year ago and I just dismissed it as cheap gas and / or water in the tank.
All of the sudden she sputters and backfires on attempts at starts.
I checked everything outside the engine at least 3 times. I got good spark. Changed and rebuilt the new carb twice. Changed the coil and points just to be sure.
Triple checked all the wires for chaffing or breaks. The vacuum advance works fine. Cant find any vacuum hose breaks.
Replaced the fuel hoses. Got fuel jetting nice on both sides.
Plugs are like new.
The distributor cap was at #1 terminal with balance at 0'. (I never messed with turning the distributor since I owned the car)
I drained the fuel tank and borescoped - not a speck of dirt.
I drained the oil pan and borescoped - no plastic teeth or chunks of metal.
Next I need to do a compression / leak down test.
---- when my aching back heals!
Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks all
Keep on MOTORING 🧐
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40 minutes ago, RivNut said:
I would bet that there's a shop in your area that rebuilds electric motors. Look for the shop that rebuilds alternators/generators and starter motors.
Oh so sorry
The engine.
Thank you
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So it looks like I'm going to end up rebuilding my motor.
Does anyone recommend a best rebuild kit or piece-meal of sources? ('67)
$ no issue. She gets the best.
Thanks!
Paul
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Post up some pics when you get time please.
🤪
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That’s incredible.
So tell us where you found these gems.
Congratulations !
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1 hour ago, kegart said:
You can bring the timing mark on the balancer to the 0 degrees then take distributor cap off and look to see if the rotor is pointing to #1.
Kevin
Oh ok
You mean pull the whole distributor?
That may be easier than pulling all the plugs, manually cranking and trying to find 1TDC. I don’t have a second mechanic to help.
I have a good borescope. What do I look for exactly inside?
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On 9/6/2018 at 11:14 PM, VickyBlue said:
Mike, from what I saw, there was not enough distance for my electric impact to safely lock onto the balancer nut in a straight way and remove it. It is a Cobalt I bought from Lowe's many years back. I don't have air...Maybe a more compact air impact would work better, but that was my main issue. The radiator removal will give you an extra 4-5 inches or so, but it is not necessary to remove it. I removed all the water pump bolts but the 2 under the oil pan while the engine was on the car. it is easy to get to those bolts with the engine in the car.
You will have to unhook , the bypass hose and the heater core hose only, the top radiator hose will make things a little easier to get to the bolts underneath I think. . You will use the yellow torch, heat up around the bolts, then spray PB , let it soak, then heat up again and try rocking the bolt back and forth, heat some more, spray some more and once it takes a 1/4 turn turn you are on the way home... Don't force anything, the small ones are the ones prone to breaking. Right when it feels it's coming out, snap... all I can say is take your time...
My bumper was in the way of my hoist, so was the front grill. You can easily lean over and get the the water pump with them on.
HelloWould you tell how you safely broke loose your balancer nut with motor installed?
Thanks
Paul
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On 4/15/2016 at 12:04 PM, Seafoam65 said:
Jason, seeing that picture makes me get angry all over again.....the plastic timing gear teeth was the dumbest
thing ever put on a car ever. If I had been president of GM I would have fired the engineer that even suggested such an idiot
part to be installed on their cars. These timing gear setups would always jump time when you shut the engine off, as the engine would
suddenly stop and the chain would keep on going. On two separate occasions in my repair shop back in the 70's, I pulled a car in
to the bay for minor service like an oil change, then it wouldn't ever start back up because the chain jumped. Of course, then I had to
call the customer and try to explain to him that I had to do a timing chain job on his car when he brought it in for an oil change. Both times the customers didn't know anything about cars and refused to believe that I was not at fault. After it happened to me the second time, I was actually afraid to shut off a 60's GM car to work on it. I actually started warning the customers when they brought the car in that this could happen and I was not responsible and would not eat the repair. Also, I defy anybody to hear a timing chain without
using a stethescope.....pure hogwash! If anybody out there can hear a timing chain on a running engine
with the naked ear, call the CIA.....your services are needed for their spy network.
Well I’m guessing it’s happened to me.All of the sudden my car is having a terrible time trying to start.
I swapped the gasoline, fuel hoses and carb. Borescoped the fuel tank and not a spec of dirt.
All the electrics seem ok. Replaced
coil, points and alternator anyway.
I get good spark and plenty fuel pressure.The motor turns with no clankity weird noises when I disconnect coil. Spark plugs look new.
I never ever loosened the distributor and assume it never was. Vacuum advance works fine.
I could only guess the chain has jumped?
ugh 😩
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I have the original style '67 Voltage Regulator.
Can these be intermittent in performance and / or cause rough starts?
Are the new (AC Delco) style replacements any good?
Thanks
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Curious as to the cost?
Couldn't hurt to do a mix with local 92 Octane?
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Thar she blows....
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My blown base gasket had
provided a mighty wind.
🤴
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Has no one reproduced the '73 bumper strips yet?
Thanks
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Thanks all.
The cat-pee ethanol has a LBP than gasoline. And it is hot as hell here.
My base fiber gasket was blown. You have to put a special hi-temp base gasket. Fel-Pro 60043
I took a piece of my old gasket, put a lite on it and it burned up. So did the new one in the carb re-build kit.
What junk.
Time to ditch my ratty, tuned down A.I.R. carb anyway.
The corvette guys also have it figured out by completely insulating and sealing:
I'll set the A.I.R. aside and put this gem in:
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Thats EXACTLY whats happening to my car in this Florida heat.
The channels were made for colder climates cold starts, right?
So ditch the shield and install the gasket without the holes - should do well here?
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Stupid question?
My '67 has been running rough and stalled on me out of the blue. I tore down the carb. to troubleshoot.
Does the heat shield (or heat conductor - I forget) get a gasket on both sides? If not, which side gets the gasket?
Thanks much.
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So, if the points visually appear good - and open and close properly like new - they should be ok?
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'73 Stainless?
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Curse you - bean counters!
So, I’d guess the adjacent door piece is “pot-luck” also.....