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PWB

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Posts posted by PWB

    "Unbadging" a clone GS?

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted · Edited by PWB (see edit history)

    Definitely a poser.

     

    Paint overspray in the wheel house. Trunk paint out of the can nilly willy all over the place. Crooked GS badges.

     

    The console wood appears to have two layers of wood? I'll sell ya mine.

     

    What a flipper. 

     

    You can look in the fender wells for the drill burrs with a borescope. 

     

    Run Luke, run!

     

     

    Anyone have a '67 parts book?

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted · Edited by PWB (see edit history)

    2 hours ago, kreed said:

    Hi Paul - Tom Mooney and Jason Zerbini talked me into opening mine and cleaning up the rust and  contacts  and it worked perfectly afterwards . Even I could do it so I am sure you can too- actually pretty simple mechanism inside . Be careful with tabs as they break off easily when opening . 
    KReed

    ROA 14549 

     

    I took your advice and opened up the relay at the fire wall which was not clicking.

    Appeared all good in there. The coil passed a continuity test. All other terminals passed.

    Put her back together and re "brazed" the case.

     

    So I then I wacked the AUX relay case a few times. She sputtered and clicked. Cycled once and now works great.

     

    Thank goodness because apparently that AUX relay is unobtainium.

     

    Thanks all.

     

     

     

     

    Post some pics of your Rivieras!!!!!!!!!!

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted · Edited by PWB (see edit history)

    6 hours ago, JZRIV said:

     

    All condensers are cheap today and even though NAPA Echlin is better, they can't compare to how they were made 40 or 50 years ago. This problem is exacerbated on antique motorcycles where they are subject to more vibration. I've dissected condensers old and new and the differences in construction are night and day clearly indicating why new ones sometimes don't last. I have since converted the 48 Indian to a condenser from Thorcap.com which is far superior. Of course you could convert to electronic but for those of us who don't want the world to forget how to install and set points, a "good" condenser might be worth looking into. 


    Wow I didn’t believe it could get this bad. I just got my Echlin version today - made in another country.

    But I will try Thorcap next.

     

    I could only find the condenser rating in my trusty old Texaco service cheat sheet stating it to be .18 to .23 mfd.

     

    Hope it’s right!

     

     Thanks all.


    Happy motoring

     

    PS: sure would like to see a pic of that Indian!

     

     

    425 sudden rough idle & stalling

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    On 8/16/2020 at 7:29 PM, 60FlatTop said:

    If you put a new condenser on the points find the old one and put it back on. If you tossed it out go to NAPA and get a new Echlin.

    I just went thru all the above without testing my condenser because it had less than 200 miles on it.

    New condenser came in the mail - now it runs better than ever.

    Maddening without a good old oscilloscope.

     

     

    • Like 1

    Riviera 67: vibrations while driving

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted · Edited by PWB (see edit history)

    Upper control arm bushings are first to wear out then the brake reaction rod bushings as they are rubber. After you have ruled out wheel balance and potential front end issues you might want to investigate the drive shaft as Rivieras have a unique phase that most driveline shops fail to recognize. 
    The Buick manual shows the correct phasing.

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