Ttotired
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Posts posted by Ttotired
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18 hours ago, Bhigdog said:
Problem is your car is a combination of disparate parts that were never designed to work together. While the newer components were likely an improvement over the older ones mating them together likely makes for a worse total package.
No boubt the differing weights and distibution has altered the steering geometry and suspension. The altered drive train is asking the frame to deal with forces it was not designed for. While your modified 55 may be able to muddle through it,s doubtful it will be an overall improvement over the car as it was orginally designed and built.
If you enjoy the challenge of dealing with the likely ongoing problems and procurement of suitable parts that's one thing. If you wish to have a well designed and dependable piece of equipment that's another. Been there done that...................Bob
What a load of purist bullsh*t
I believe that the best coarse for the OP is to seek PROFESIONAL help in sorting out the handling woes with respect to the fact that its not a modern car and not to expect modern car handling.
To basically tell a bloke his new pride and joy is no good because its not factory standard is not helping him out at all
My advice, go to a front end/suspension specialist and talk to them and get it checked out and have a look at some of the facebook buick pages. Late model and engine upgrades are not uncommon on this era buick and despite what some think, they are also worthy cars
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The balance thing is what I was told applied to nailheads, mine is a 58 364, perhaps its different?
I have read it, but I cant think where now
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Its simple, B+ to the big top stud
B- to the body of the stater
A small wire attached to the one remaining stud
Hang onto the starter (I put my foot on them) or have it firmly in a vice
Touch the small wire to the B+ and the solenoid should kick the pinion out and the armature should start spinning
The mentioned ignition terminal on the starter is an output for the ignition or ballast bypass and wont stop the starter from
working, but normally should be tested to make sure it works
As said, better to go through the starter anyway (it looks ratty) or buy a new one.
I found that the starter from an "International" (brand from International Harvester if your not familiar with it) is the same except the nose cone which
is easily swapped and a bolt hole in the field housing that supports the P clamp for the B+ cable. This was all on my 58 364, so it might be different
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Look up the engine balance stuff as well, the buick engines are apparently balanced by/with the torque converter, so its a bad thing if the crank moves independently from the torque converter.
No one warns about this until its to late
I have a 1 in 3 shot of getting it right
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Pretty sure this will fit anything as long as the cap fits. It was probably made in 55, so suited everything up to 55 with hydraulic brakes
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Being an automotive tradesman, if someone came to me with a job on a vintage car and told me it was going to take me x amount of time to do it, regardless of wether I had done the job before
and how long ago I had done it, I would politely tell them to find someone else as all I would see at the end of the job was an argument over labour charges on a job that was a pain with seized parts, broken
bolts and either crusty NOS gaskets ect or nearly fitting reproduction parts.
Vintage car repair takes as long as it takes.
If you trust your repairer, then use them and let them do their job, if you don't trust them, find a new one
F/ing time books, like the whats my car worth book.
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See there you go
An answer to the question, not un asked for opinions on the value or not of changing to disc brakes
Thank you
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I always just used general purpose grease on the rubbing block and cam
Absolutely no need for anything special and I have rebuilt hundreds of them
Kiss principle
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All very interesting, but back to the question "Has anyone tried a disk brake conversion under Kelsey Hayes original wire wheels? Do the calipers fit?"
I wonder this as well. I don't have wires or disc brakes, but if I decide to go that direction, it might be handy information
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The link bolt. With the movement of the suspension arm up the top bar is going to pull the top of the bolt towards the front of the car, the lower bar will tend to push the bolt towards the rear of the car in relation to the top bars movement. This will try to push the bottom of the bolt towards the rear of the car which it cant do, so it will break either the top or bottom off the bolt.
Mate, don't take my word for it, take it to a shop and ask them
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1 large single bar is whats required here, I really am quite surprised that the knowledge base that is evident here are not advising "Old Tank" as I have
Ask any engineer about this set up, its just dangerous. When that lets go, it will do so in a corner and suddenly alter the handling of the car which has the potential
to cause loss of control.
I am willing to back down from this if anyone can show me where this "set up" has been used in a production or even professional race situation
I know its not a race car, but its a big heavy lumbering car that has a lot of body roll without a sway bar and much less with it. What happens when it suddenly gets a lot of body roll again?
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Its a job for the professionals. But take 3 speed readings, low middle, high to a value, say 10, 30, 50 mph on the speedo and compare them to GPS speed
and take that to an instrument tech and they can calibrate the speedo correctly.
If you have done this already and they cant get it right, find a new tech
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Interior looks great
I picked up on what you said about your a/c though, or what I think you said
You directed heated air through the evaporator of the a/c? With what you said, I think the a/c was off, which is good, but
you shouldn't be able to do that. Its ok for a/c air to go through the heater, but not the other way around. I wont bore you with why exactly (if you don't know) but
it does the a/c no good at all
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Sorry to be a wet blanket, but you do realise the eyes at the end of say bars are going to travel through a different arc
Its going to tear itself to bits
Your first farmer design was probably safer
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Oh my god, its been farmered
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https://www.mecum.com/lots/CA0817-300015/1953-buick-skylark-convertible/
Centrivical supercharger. Personally, I like roots blowers much more, purely for astecics.
If I was going to use a centivical, I would probably go turbo instead.
As for what you have to do to the carburettor, that depends on how you set the blower/turbo up.
Plenty on the web on setting up for blow through on any engine, it doesn't really matter if its a nail or not.
A bit of study on boosted engines and how much boost you want compared to what you need to do to safely achieve that boost
will answer most of your questions.
Pipe dream or not, I also have a gnawing ambition to play superchargers
I have an SC12 supercharger here that I want to put on my little Austin
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The word is purist, so what is a purist doing in this section?
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I am not fully up on the nails yet, but does the oil system supply oil to both heads at once?
When pre lubeing an engine, I turn the crank over as well as that opens and closes oil galleries
Maybe if your not doing this, its just that the engine is not at an opening for either side?
Just a thought
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Quote
Title sounds like a plea for money to pay for paint repair
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Nope, but if I was going to, I think I would put the compressor where the generator is and using a twin belt compressor pulley, use that to run a re mounted generator.
Biggest problem is belt wrap and you will only find twin a/c pulleys in "A" section sizes.
Driving the system is the hard part. Not sure if you could modify or use a different harmonic balancer to get another pulley grove on it?
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Not to rag on it, but I wouldn't swap my 58 for it (and it don't go either)
Not and never will be a fan of euro cars, mind you, if I found one and then found it was worth stupid money, I would be happy
Good luck with your sale, its probably worth your ask (to the right people) from what I can see
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Just a note on your voltage output for the light/start switch you said from the powergen, it will be equivalent to the output
voltage of the alternator, otherwise, the light (which is what its normally used for) will stay on at 1/2 brightness using your 5V value.
Some alternators do have a 1/2 volt tapping (early 70s fords over here and I assume in the US as well, used it to run the automatic choke) and on
some diesels (in particular trucks like Kenworth, Mack, Peterbuilt ect) used it to run the tachometer, but the important thing to note here is that the 1/2 volt tapping is an ac voltage.
It can be used to run anything that isn't fussy about clean current (it alternates obviously) or as above, where it uses the alternating current as a speed signal (tachometer)
This output is not designed (normally) to run any real load from it, its really just a signal output and can normally cope with about a 1/4W load safely.
Back to the powergen, I think you will find that the studs are 1 main output and 2 warning light. As said above, warning light output will be equal to alternator output.
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I think you meant this one https://yarilscustoms.com/1956-cadillac/
That lateral bar just looks wrong to me, also note the large notches out of the chassis and the rather ugly alteration to the trans tunnel.
All necessary if you want it in the weeds (I do like the look)
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Good luck, no patience on a stuck engine = carnage
Front Brake Concerns / This Car is Baffling!
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I wouldn't mind seeing more pictures of how the rear conversion was done
The torque tube is not my favourite part of my buick