ChrisWhewell

Wow, what transmission are you using ? what rpm was the 391 HP at ?

Good job on being such a pioneer, I salute you for sure. That's Americanism, love ya bro

Sure. but you didn' answer my query above and since you obviously know so much about these cars, let me kindly inquire your reply to this once more " "loose and/or corroded" So, are you suggesting that an open circuit causes the door locks to actuate ?" I know a smidgen about electronics and am always wanting to learn more, than, splices are known to cause problems. If you can't elaborate and have contributed all you can, I'm totally fine with that. I'd just like to pick your gifted mind a little, about how an open in a circuit could cause two different outcomes, my mind is yearning

Thank you. I've seen suddenly within about the past week two different symptoms of intermittent actuation, one being the trunk solenoid, the other being the door locks. If these were both on the same circuit, I might be inclined to believe a single splice fault could be involved. It seems however since there are different buttons on my key fob for door locks and the trunk solenoid, that these are different circuits. Thus I contemplate the life of the vehicle being approximately 27 years against the statistical probability that two separate circuits would at approximately the same point in time begin to fail and do weird shttt within a week's time. While such is certainly within the realm of possibility, I tend to think there is a single common cause for both. I'm thinking that its the module that receives EM radio signals from the key fob, since both symptoms of trunk solenoid and door locks are features of the key fob. My thought is that whatever module is responsible for relaying these signals, is just having electronic Alzheimers, or an electromagnetic schizophrenia. I'm not doubting your stating the known issue of underseat splices having corrosion issues at all. I'm just looking at where the empirical evidence seems to suggest that there's a common cause of both of these symptoms.

"loose and/or corroded" So, are you suggesting that an open circuit causes the door locks to actuate ?

I think that's all true. I also think the trans in our Reattas are probably good for 225 HP, tops. So an upgrade to 210 would probably be safe. Not a huge advance, going from 165 HP to 210, but an advance nevertheless. Probably accomplishable with a head swap having larger valves and bigger injectors

Yes, is has a funny "sniff" to it. I think someone would be proud of having such an accomplishment, plus it would be an advance in the art. Providing a write-up at the most would take 15 minutes. I'm amazed at how little is available in the aftermarket for LN3. One might think by now Gale Banks or someone would have put out a turbo kit

I think the bcm on my 90 is freaking out also. Last week, it was randomly intermittently causing actuation of the trunk latch. Over the weekend, it quit doing that and has shifted to randomly intermittently actuating the door locks to unlock and re-lock again repeatedly. Welcome to, the Twilight Zone....

Here's a thought: http://forums.motorswap.org/viewtopic.php?t=2422

Yeah, I was reading it wrong, the rocker arms aren't the same. Oh well, its an educational article nevertheless. I can't seem to find any decent performance upgrade for an LN3... anywhere !!!!!! A little more lift would make a noticeable improvement, did on my vette anyway.... I bet Comp could sell quite a few sets 1.8 ratio roller rocker arms for LN3

Please correct me if mis-reading the link below, are the rocker arms on a 90 Reatta LN3 the same as those on a 1995 VIN K motor ? In this article, the gentleman mentions that: "All references to SI are taken from a 90 Vin C 3800 and all SII are in reference to a 95 Vin K 3800 engine And it also states: "you know the SI and SII use the same lifters? " I'd really like to find some 1.8 ratio rocker arms I can bolt into my LN3. If its true that the 90 LN3 rockers are the same as those on a '95 VIN K motor, that might help. Thanks !! http://forums.motorswap.org/viewtopic.php?t=1663&sid=842a00ed0234bc1a22806ea212a65664

Still, the 4T60 trans is the weak link. I wonder whether a 4T80 transmission from a 2002 ElDorado might be a viable insertion - the 2002 ElDorado was an E-platform car. Here's one article http://www.3800pro.com/forum/fwd-transaxle-components/37817-3800-swap-4t65-4t80-pt1.html Also, this article gives a little history about our transmissions http://www.angelfire.com/ca2/34Performance/dohc.html I have a nice 3.4L DOHC motor here, just alter the cam timing and its basically a 275HP motor. I wish I had time to play with this stuff more

Yeah, you can of course pull the wires if they travel down the column, but easier would be to do a splice. I had to tear apart the column on my 93 vette recently to replace a turn signal wiper cam, and it was only by the grace of God I ever got the wires snaked back down the column. I only did that because there were like 8 wires on the thing and splicing was impossible. On an ignition switch, I'd probably splice. Or alternately consider to maybe install a tiny connector in series with the existing wire to the ign switch if there's room in there for it to fit someplace, out of the way of everything else

How about..... a special black electrical tape. You wrap it around a length of wire in the usual spiral fashion, and afterwards hit it with a heat gun and it constritcts responsively to the heat, just like a shrink tubing. Does that exist yet ?

Thanks, I appreciate your inputs.

Why is it relevant whether a ground or a "hot" is switched ? Put a light bulb across your battery with an SPST switch in series with it. Then throw the switch and write a dissertation on whether you're switching the "hot" or the gnd. Then, take the switch out of the circuit and install it in reverse and re-analyze. Those ground faults are way overrated IMO. Most of the component failures I've had are due to components, but that's just my limited experience

Can't we rig a "taller" accumulator with suitable plumbing, to be mounted adjacent to its stock location ?? Wouldn't look pretty but would work, a bent pipe, in the shape of a quasi-S. I betcha

I agree the splices can be an issue sometimes, but in this instance I have an intermittent which I believe is a BCM fault. The latch opens itself without any regular pattern, even when the vehicle is not moving. If it were a short, think about it, would a short cause the latch to open ? If it were a hot wire touching the wire that triggers the latch (statistically improbable for energization from one wire to an adjacent one, both would need insulation worn at a precise point) it is not explainable when the vehicle is sitting at rest, since the latch typically opens 3-4 times within 5 seconds, then does nothing, then goes at it again. We see this alot, as a "google" search for "trunk opens by itself" reveals. I've also experienced in my Rivieras, the alarms going off suddenly for no reason, lots of google results on "alarm goes off for no reason". These modules are old, way beyond their design life. I'll try to find a BCM and ECM, the trouble is, how do you know the BCM or ECM you get is actually in good working order when received ?? I mention that after reading some dude's thread about him replacing his ECM on these boards, then pulling his hair out trying to hunt down a problem, that was fixed when he replaced the replacement ECM with a second replacement ECM.

Thanks. I'll pull the seats and carpet based on your suggestion.

In other words, I'm all into her body. Her mind is essentially useless.

I'm not so much into the brakes being original, I just like the body style of the Reatta. The motor sucks, and can't wedge an L67 into it, mechanics are ignorant of Reatta, yet I still keep her. I bought light bulbs today to replace an outage in the rear assembly, left the store and 2 store employees out gawking at her. They turned away but within a second I said "What you looking at?" and sure 'nuff, it was the Reatta. Maybe some masochists like fixing things, I know, believe me. Anymore, I don't care about keeping a $3500 car "all stock", when my accumulator fails, I'll replace the whole system to the extent I can with something simpler, like out of a Riviera of the same year and put black electrical tape over the ABS idiot light, if I ever let it bother me. Praktische. Meantime however, if an company offers an accumulator at a reasonable price, I might bite. But I definitely do not like the car for its archaeoligical feature of being advanced in the area of braking 30 years ago. !! Then again, I grew up on manual brakes with no power assist.

She's at it again, her many personalities. When I jacked her up to change struts, I was in the office and heard loud click sounds. She was repeatedly energizing the trunk solenoid. Click click click, cachunk cachunk cachunk. Randomly. I took the battery out of my remote fob thinking it was the culprit, but no. So, what could cause Sybil to, out of the blue, just start wanting her trunk to be opened ??? I checked, there's no bodies in there, no money, golf clubs, nothing of any interest. In fact the trunk is empty. Still, I sense she is trying to tell me something..... Maybe cellphone towers overload microwave output ? Maybe aircraft signals set off the trunk latch ?? Aliens ? Yes, aliens, too many of those lately

Somebody ought to box them up an old accumulator, and tell them there's a bunch of us over here wanting one. Probably just a small tooling change for them, if at all ?

I was looking for dimensions on that part, but found conflicting information. How tall is a stock Teves accumulator on the Reatta's would be one question, and would an adapter be needed on the threads ?

Thanks. At least I got a new axle half-shaft out of the deal.