ChrisWhewell

Maybe one of the hole plugs down at the bottom of this link, then weld an appropriately-dimensioned magnet housing to the smooth surface. Then, just push that sucker in the hole in the sprocket, but first put JB on the fingers. Polarity important, yes. Just take a second magnet to a store-bought replacement magnet, and adjudge which pole is facing outwards and copy that, no problem. These hole plugs in the link aren't made for the job specifically, but with JB on the fingers, should stabilize it. At least, its waayyy better than those two little plastic barbs on the replacement part you get at the auto parts store - that's the reason for the failure - the setback when the engine is stopped is just too much for those two puny plastic barbs to handle repeatedly. Metal barbs - yes and JB to really hold that sucker. https://www.surplussales.com/MetalPlugs/MetalHolePlugs.html I wish I had a spare sprocket... want to loan me one ? Its just been a busy week for business, clients are un-relenting. Great discussion,

Trimming the brim and using metallized epoxy is a viable option, I've seen nothing but good feedback on that and am grateful to Mr. Padgett for his intellect. The question in my mind is.... if a young GM engineer can make a magnet housing that inserts to be securingly engaged from side A of a sprocket, then, can a magnet housing not also be made of appropriate dimension that inserts to be held securingly engaged with the sprocket from its side B ? Of course. Second question... would I be willing to pay $30 for such a contrivance, I could just pop into place ? I would. I'd drop the 30 bucks, walk out in the garage right now, pop it in and be done with it. Might even carry a spare. Not far up the road is a genius machinst with a full shop, he emigrated to Texas 30 years ago from Detroit and makes parts for NASA, among others. The question is, how many should we make ?

The scene of the crime, note the circular abrasion marks on the face of the sensor. The black plastic housing my magnet was contained in at one time, remains on my cam sprocket. The magnet's location is unknown. The reason for the failure was the plastic that held the magnet in place, wearing off by continued contact with the sensor face. Now that I have a new magnet, I can measure the oem dimensions of the replacement part. Next, I obtain a barved press-in plug of proper dimension, and affix my own magnet to it in permanent fashion. Fortunately, magnet technology has advanced since 1990, and powerful rare earth magnets are available cheap, at essentially any dimension one wants. I may alternatively begin with a screw in plug and put my magnet in it, then just screw the plastic plug in the 1/2" hole where the oem magnet was supposed to go, from the front side. JB weld is permissible. The beauty of stronger modern magnets is they can be located at a little more distance away from the sensor and still work fine due to their higher field strength. I'll keep ya all posted, but once I get the right config, putting my new contrivance in that hole should be a 5 minute job. The hardest part will be finding a polymeric plug of an appropriate polymer composition that withstands gasoline and oil and thermal cycling. Plastic is easy to machine, esp. by hand

Oh, by the way.... I had previously a B334C code AND and E447. Putting the relay in made those go away. So, evidently, communication between BCM and ECM is subject to tripping an error code if there is no AC clutch relay in place or the elecromagnet's coil in the relay is open.

Climate control was not working, only the fan would blow, could not adjust temperature either way. But, I tried retrieving error codes - hold down "off" and temp-up button simultaneously, and.... it went into diagnostic mode. Weird, that told me the temp-up arrow was being sensed. Yet, why did it not function to permit me to alter the "set" temperature ? Recall, a previous owner had put a jumper wire for the AC relay. I pulled that jumper and put a relay in there, and then... voila - the climate control functionality has fully returned. So, if anyone has trouble with climate control not being able to adjust temperature either way, maybe check the AC relay up front for an open. One by one, my issues going away. Only error code is 041 - cam sensor circuit. crikey, I hope the little magnet is still in place

Magnavox ignition, haha. I have a spare module from my other 231 V6 98 Riv, and coils. I've read where the same module is used, the fastener holes coincide and the electrical connector is the same. If true, that's a bonus. But.... is it true ? I'll have a look later, I read specs on each and the Delco is a bit better, may allow a little wider spark gap

I've been blessed, the 20A tail light fuse was blown. Follwing its replacement, the fog lights work. Also the running lights, and evidently the high-low beam functionality was impacted by that, as the issue no longer exists. Yeehaw!! Trunk latch..... relay in trunk clicks. Pulled solenoid, it was stuck. Lubed it, but also note that everything's painted, thick, like, there's no ground - how did the trunk ever open from the factory on this car ? 12.24 V at the red wire so the circuitry is functional, yay. At least I can get it past inspection now and have a driveable car, not bad for 2500 bucks and all I basically did was replace the headlight switch an a fuse. Engine is smooth and has decent acceleration for an old man like me What's left ?? In the underhood relay box up front, I found three Ford relays, and a thick jumper wire where the AC compressor relay is supposed to be, looks like I need some relays. Radio ? its stuck in perpetual casette mode, cant get it to switch over to radio. Climate control works in auto mode but is stuck at 75degrees, which is ok when its 100 out the ac is just sufficient. Lastly the 6-way seat adjustment, the "down" control doesn't work, probably the switch is what I hope. Oddly, when I pulled the 10A fuse on the driver's side of the console that corresponds to the label "HVAC" on the fuse map with engine running, the idle kicks up about 250 rpm, and the driver's display illumination goes totally dark. weird. The "interior lights dim" slide bar rheostat on the headlamp switch ensemble still has no effect on the brightness of the display. Other than that "check engine light" is on, but that's no big deal, I"ll read the codes later. RPM gauge display works first five minutes then goes dead, same with coolant gauge. Hey I love puzzles Thanks guys, I have a manual on the way, have a good afternoon

Well, bought a '90 on 9/16, my first Reatta. Bought it at dusk, didn't inspect it much other than the frame for straightess, drivetrain, engine. Engine compartment is showroom new, same with paint which is all orig., and underneath the car looks brand new. 78k miles it came with a basket case of a headlight on/off switch. So, Mr. Finn has kindly provided one, I just installed the new rebuilt switch and buttoned everything back up. Here's the puzzle..... turning parking lights on has no effect on exterior lighting. Turning fog lights on has no effect on exterior lighting, but the driver's display goes dim, like really dim, almost becomes invisible, but the voltage reading on the display does not dip. The interior dim light slide bar on the light switch has no effect on the appearance of the display. The trunk does not open when either the key is used, or the push-button in the glove box. When the headlamps are on, none of the 14 rear exterior light bulbs come on, and neither do any of the running lights. Fortunately, the headlamps do light up, but the bright lights don't work, although the interior display panel indicates that the brights are on. The electronic fuel door release is at least, functional. Brake lights work. With any luck there is a unified field theory of Reatta, and I have a single electrical fault somewhere, that when I find and fix it, everything will magically all begin to work. hah, its too hot outside to do anymore and I've been working all week so, need to get out a little. First thing I'll check I guess is the fuse box, maybe tomorrow... I have a feeling this is going to be a fun one

The Reatta body design is timeless... it could have come out in 2015 and it would be able to compete with what's out there now. Same IMO for the 95-99 Rivieras. These Buicks sure had excellent body designs.

There's a photo, interior is saddle, like a dark beige.

Thank's ya'all. The passenger mirror motor... is detached, the little bosses for the two fasteners that hold it inside the mirror cowl are snapped, so I have to get the mirror off of the motor, then maybe plastic weld the little bosses back on. As for the light switch, Jim Finn up in Duluth has come to the rescue. OMG, this car is sooo mint looking, like a factory-new paint job and the windows are clean as crystal. I don't even want to drive it, maybe just park it in the living room and look at it, lol. Have to educate myself on the Teves system. My daily driver is a 93 vette, but I also keep a '67 K20 4X4 chev fleetside in the garage next to the Road King. I drove a 97 and 98 Riviera supercharged the past 15 years and know those Riv's inside and out. I haven't paid for mechanic work on anything in 25 years. Some day I'll crawl into the trunk with a flashlight and screwdriver and figure out how to pop the trunk open, the electronic button in the glove box doesn't work, and the key when inserted into the lock only turns but nothing happens. For the future, new injectors from John at Fuel Injector Connection in Georgia, a transmission filter change, fuel filter, brake system flush, coolant flush, etc. the usual bs. Thanks my3buicks for the tip on the cam sensor, I need to get a factory service manual too. What a pretty car, 7 inches longer than a C4 'vette. I had a 90 convertible back in 2001 for a day but returned it, that thing rattled like a h***, I prefer the structural integrity of the coupe

Took me 15 years but finally got a Reatta. 78k miles and looks showroom new, even the original paint looks near perfect. A few things wrong, minor stuff. Like the headlamp switch, mirror motor, trunk won't open, and check engine light. No problem. What a nice looking car.