Kenneth Carr

I don't know if this will help but I recently lost both 1st and reverse. The front end had been jacked up for a couple weeks awaiting a master cylinder that was being rebuilt. I pushed it out of the garage and drove to The Transmission Shop and we put it on the lift. A cotter pin that attaches the 1st/reverse rod to the transmission had fallen out. Did you check to see if your 2nd/3rd rod is attached to the transmission? (previously posted in old discussion by error).

I don't know if this will help but I recently lost both 1st and reverse. The front end had been jacked up for a couple weeks awaiting a master cylinder that was being rebuilt. I pushed it out of the garage and drove to The Transmission Shop and we put it on the lift. A cotter pin that attaches the 1st/reverse rod to the transmission had fallen out. Did you check to see if your 2nd/3rd rod is attached to the transmission?

I solved my own problem of hard starting after the car sat for a while. My first solution (see above) was to prime the float bowl. That worked but did not solve the problem, whatever it was. Then one day I started the car with the hood open. Immediately I noticed that the upper radiator hose was wet. I turned off the car and inspected the hose. It was wet with gasoline. Just below and slightly to the rear from the hose is the fuel line. At that point there is a junction where I noticed a 4" piece of flexible fuel hose joining two ends of the metal fuel line. It was swollen and fuel was leaking out of both ends. I replaced it with a new piece of tubing. Now the car starts up right away regardless of how long it has been standing. I suspect that in the past the fuel slowly drained out of the carb through this imperfect flexible joint.

We have the names of officers on the web newsletter but we eliminated their phone numbers and e-mail addresses. Instead each officer name (except mine) links to a contact form. The person using the form is asked to specify to whom the message is directed and then write their message. All mail comes to me (I am the webmaster) and I forward it to the appropriate person. Members can always retrieve phone numbers and e-mail addresses from a password-protected 'Members Only' menu item. http://www.WPRAACA.com

Our region is the Westerly-Pawcatuck Region (RI and S. East CT). The newsletter is sent out by e-mail, posted on our website, and mailed to all those who prefer it that way. The club pays postage. Some of our members do not use computers and some just prefer a mailed copy. Everyone is happy (of course our editor understandably would prefer the e-mail ony system). htttp://www.wpraaca.com

Regarding the suggestion to fill the float chamber: I have to do this any time the car sits for 4 days or more. I pull the little float level screw on the side of the bowl (careful ... if you drop that ..may want to put a rag under the area to catch it). I then use one of those little squeeze bulbs that are used to clean out ear wax (get this at your pharmacy). It has a slightly curved tip and works great. A friend of mine also recommended putting a second ground strap from the battery directly to one of the mounting screws for the starter. He says you can be sure of getting maximum crank strength that way. I may do that this summer.

I eventually got a belt from V-Belt Global Supply as recommended above by "sixseven". The belt arrived within a week. It was folded a few times and in a bag. It unfolded easily. The belt is new, the correct size and style, and supple. I installed it easily and the car is working nicely with no more belt noise. The old one is in the trunk as a spare. The correct belt at V-Belt is the "C48 V-Belt". The cost, with shipping to RI, was $18.46. I agree that Bob's is a good option because you don't have to choose the belt by dimensions. My only problem was the cost. It would have been $52.45 with shipping and residential delivery. I still would not have qualified for the $40 minimum order so I would have to get something else also.

Did you notice what the brand and model number were? I will likely go with Bob's if others don't have it.

I have a 1941 Buick, Model 71 Roadmaster 4-door sedan. My fan belt is getting old and noisy and needs to be replaced. The correct belt appears to be the Gates Vulco no. 625 (I have an old NORS that is a bit dry). The belt on the car now is a Green Stripe 625. It also has the number 384D on it. The belt is 52" long (outside) and 7/8" wide (outside) and about 3/4" wide on the inside. My local parts man ordered me a belt. He gave me a 48" belt, even though I told him 52". It was also slightly narrow (about 1/8" narrower). I tried it anyway at his suggestion. I could not even get it over the crank and fan pulleys, never mind the generator. He now wants to order me a 52" belt that will also be narrow. I did not notice if the first belt he gave me held against the walls of the pulley or bottomed out. So, is there a modern equivalent of the 625 that will work? Is a 3/4" belt going to work or will it slide down and not have enough surface on the sides to drive the pulley? If anyone has replaced this belt and has some modern numbers and brand that would be appreciated. Thanks! PS - The major old Buick parts houses don't seem to list the width of the belts. They also charge much more than my local guy.

The manual says to use "S.A.E. 90 E. P. Transmission Lubricant for temperatures not lower than 10° F. below zero. For temperatures lower than 10° F. below zero, add S.A.E. 80 E. P. Passenger Car Heavy Duty Hypoid Lubricant." I use what is commonly available, 85W-140 gear lubricant. The transmission quiets and shifts easily. I suspect plain old 90 would be better but this one works for me. Raise the car on a pair of ramps so you can fit under it. Be sure to use chocks on the rear wheels so it won't roll back. Get under the car on the passenger side. Find the transmission. You will see the drain plug on the bottom. On the side is a similar plug. That is the fill plug. Remove it and then pump the lubricant in until it starts to flow back out. Now it is filled. I use a sort of hand-operated suction pump. It comes with a nice flexible plastic hose that you can insert right into the fill hole. Suck up some oil from the oil container and then pump it out into the fill hole. I have tried using a funnel but it is really difficult to to do. In the photo the filler plug is the upper square plug. Above it you can see the floorboards. The angle is a bit odd because of how I was wedged under the car.

Thanks for all the replies! I know a local upholster and I will check to see if he has this. I am familiar with Masonite but this stuff is not as stiff or hard as that is. I suspect the panel board will be the way to go.

Vehicle: 1941 Buick Roadmaster 4-door sedan I have been busy rewiring my interior lights and installing seat belts. In the process my front seat cushion underlayment (best term I can come up with) has suffered a few more breaks. This is a cardboard-like material that lies directly under the front seat, nestled within the lower portion of the seat frame. I would like to make a replacement piece but I have no idea what this is made of or what might be a suitable substitute. Does anyone know what this is and what I should use to make a replacement piece? It looks a bit like a fibrous cardboard that is solid and crumbles and breaks easily. I have included a couple of photos. Thanks! I

I should have been more clear, Larry. I do intend to anchor them to the floor. My question is as to where on the floor they should be placed and where they should pass through or around the seat frame. One recommendation I saw set 15-20" as the spacing between anchors.

I am going to add seat belts to my 1941 Buick Roadmaster 4-door sedan. The front seat is an undivided bench seat. Question: Where do most people place the outside belt, within the seat frame (position 'B' in photo) or outside the frame (positon 'A' in the photo)? I like 'B' because it may be neater and totally hide the belt attachment behind the rear foot rest. But, 'B' may be more comfortable and secure. Question: What is a good position for the belt to the right of the driver? Should I just sit down and take measurements that way? I also plan to cover most of the sheet metal back frame ('D') with thin rubber tubing to prevent wear on the belts. Any suggestions and/or photos of your installation would be appreciated. Thanks! Note: The belts I ordered have extra wide reinforcement plates and are the 74" variety.

Lee Ratliff is a friend of mine. We met through amateur radio (his call sign is K1LR). Lee spent three years in the 1970's as the driver, mechanic, and crew chief for Evel Knievel. I am writing here to let you know about Lee's story that I recently released on my blog. There will be six chapters and plenty of previously unreleased photos. If you are interested, please check it out.

Hey, Matt! You may remember me from the old Buick Webring. You used a photo of my '41 Roadmaster as an example of the 4-dr Trunkback Touring style. I agree with you about those rust areas. I had to replace the metal on both the driver and passenger side footwells at the base of the A-pillars. I also had to replace some metal in the bottom of the spare tire well (looks like the one on eBay may be OK there). My manifold has a crack and I am just leaving it alone. I believe that you mentioned elsewhere that nearly all of them crack due to the intake and exhaust being bolted together and heating up at different rates. Did you ever put seat belts in the front? I am considering it and am wondering if the anchors can be hidden underneath the carpeted footrest in the back floor without disturbing the carpet.