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vette-kid

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Posts posted by vette-kid

  1. I could be wrong, but that Gap looks pretty normal to me.  I can't go check mine right now, but I wouldn't want it much closer to the firewall.  

     

    Are you just trying to get the "correct" engine?  Personally, I'd leave it if it works.

    • Like 1
  2. Found the body number and the number on the radiator.  Where is the number on the frame located?  Anything interesting I can get from these numbers?  And what is the tag above the body number supposed to be?  It's so faded I can't tell anything from it.

    IMG_20191106_072523662.jpg

    IMG_20191106_073205770.jpg

  3. Ok, the pedals are two piece, at least on my car.  However, I just don't see how these seals stay in place.  I've removed the toe board (huge pain BTW), but there's nothing to hold it when the pedal is depressed.  Seems like it would just press out into the engine bay 

     

     

    IMG_20191105_133242556.jpg

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  4. Most LED lights it there are not properly designed for headlight use.  As mentioned, they don't project out as far.  To get a good, proper LED headlamp you are likely going to spend some money.  My guess is for $50 you got something that is marginal at best and likely does not have the distance most people desire and is likely blindingly bright to oncoming traffic,a nuisance at best and probably a hazard.  

     

    Please don't try and go cheap on things like headlights and safety items!  Remember, lights aren't just for you to see the road, they are for others to be able to see you.  Blinding them is as bad or worse than no lights at all.  Please, don't just try and find the cheapest LED bulb to throw in there.  It isn't working the way you think it is!

    • Like 3
  5. Any idea if that Motorola control head would work with a Philco box?  There is a nice Motorola control head on eBay for a good price right now.  I've got a Philco box on the way.  No idea of either work at all.  There is a Philco control head to, but it's missing the face plate.

  6. Thanks for the reply.  I've got the brochure and even know what the factory offering was for it.  It's just hard to find.  I'm hoping that the control heads will work across manufacturers.  Motorola made an aftermarket option with a tailor for control head, even though it wasn't a factory option, or listed in the literature for Plymouth.

     

    The other Chrysler products have a different face plate, so those will not fit in the Plymouth.

  7. Some very cool stuff in this thread!  I've been looking to get a radio for my 36 P2.  Would the control heads for these radios be interchangeable?  Could I use a Motorola control head with a Philco box?  They are hard to find, but options open up if they can work across brands.

  8. IfI'd look to get a period radio for my 36 P2.  I have a Philco CT11 box but no control head or face plate for it.  I have found a Motorola control head on eBay with the correct face plate that will mount in the left ash tray door.  Does anyone know if the rain from this era will play nice together?  Can I use the Motorola control head with the Philco box?

     

    There is a Philco control head available but it does not have the face plate and that may be difficult to find. 

  9. That is cool!  The Plymouth also uses the roof, so I'm told.  Control head goes in the left side ash tray door and it's vertically oriented.  Here is the correct Motorola control.  Thehttps://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283649383377 Philco looks a little different.  This didn't say Plymouth, but I believe it's correct.  Just missing the face plate.

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283649367490

     

  10. Great info, thank you!  I do want the radio, but at the very least it will be a period radio.  MY understanding is that a Philco CT11 was the correct dealer installed option.  Although there were other aftermarket radios available .  I have seen a Motorola with the correct control head for a P2.  I have a line on a CT11 right now, no control though.  Am I understanding that you have the Motorola for sale?  PM me if so. I plan on Keeping everything stock or period correct.  It already has dual tail lamps, but just the single horn.  We do drive it, so I want turn signals.  One of the add on integrated units would look cool, but using the tail lamps is probably cheaper, easier and more accurate for the period.  

     

    I'm trying to work on the horn wire now.  I have the correct wire, just trying to salvage an old terminal for it.  Kinds hard to do though.  I hope to  find something else that will work.  Such as a 48-52 first f series or an early power wagon.

  11. I know Im reviving an old thread again.  I love the MP3 Idea!  I've been searching for a radio and strongly considering the possibility of having an aux input added for just this reason.  Radio's are somewhat hard to come by it seems.  I also plan on having RI Wire add provisions for the radio.  Was yours just a constant and switched hot and ground?  All powered through the speaker box or separate power for the control head?

     

    Also posting so I can find this easier.  We will be pulling the instrument cluster during the rewire and cleaning it up/trying to get the temp guage working.

  12. Just thought I would update everyone on this.  We finally got it all put back together and out for a test drive.  Sadly I'm not there to do it personally, but dad got the steering wheel back on (thanks to jpage) and took it for a drive.  ALL play is gone from the steering and it tracks about like you would expect an 80yo car on bias ply's.  Oddly, for the rebuild essentially all we did was to replace the bearings and races.  we tried a new sector gear but the box was locked up tight with the new one, so we put the old one back in.  Before the rebuild we probably shouldn't have even driven it.  I chickened out around 40mph, Dad had it all the way up to 60 the other day and said it felt fine, so Ill consider that problem solved!  Now on to electrical!

  13. Thanks everyone!  I do have the manuals and a laminated wire diagram.  Great for trouble shooting, but it doesn't really help figure out how the wires are ran.

     

    @jpage, what did you use for the horn wire?  I have one I'm trying to salvage the terminal from.  A guy on eBay is selling NOS wires for $50!  To much in my opinion.  But then, no one seems to sell those terminals, I've checked a handful of places.

     

    I also think I'm going to have them add provisions for turn signals and radio.  Not really sure what wires I'll need there since I don't have either yet.  I assume constantly, switched and ground, plus signal wires, so 5 for the turn signals and the for a radio?

  14. Hello me figure out what I'm up against.  Needs complete rewiring, the 80yo stuff is just dangerous.  I would be devastated if Grandpa's old car burnt down.

     

    I've decided on this island wire for the harnesses.  Had anyone done this job?  How late intensive is this going to be?  How much of the car will I have to take apart?  Ideally I'd leave add much together as possible, the car runs and drives now and I'd rather not have it in pieces for the next year.  That said, it needs to happen before the worst happens.  So how bad is this job?

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