Jrbrks

Thank you, Joe. I appreciate the guidance. Jim

Is it necessary to hold the metering valve open when flushing brake fluid/bleeding brakes on a 1968 Oldsmobile 442? It has the factory power front disc/rear drum brakes. The shop manual indicates a specific tool to hold the metering valve open. If holding the metering valve open is required, can someone share a practical way to do this? I am guessing the tool described in the shop manual is not available. Thanks for any guidance. Jim

Thank you, Joe. I will try this.

Thanks Joe. Specifically, where would I connect the vacuum hose and gauge to look for a leak? I looked at the vacuum lines under the hood and they appear correct. I did not look under the dash, but I do not believe those were disturbed at the last repair. My 442 is a 4-speed, but it does have power brakes. Thanks Jim

Joe, The electronic points conversion has been in place since April, 2013 and it is a Pertronix (1181LS). I believe the coil is the stock Deco-Remy coil that has been in the car, since my purchase 9+ years ago. I do mot believe it has ever been replaced. What might be the best method to check for a vacuum leak? Additionally, I recently had the heater control valve replaced and the A/C switch wired to turn the compressor off without stopping the engine. I noticed the issue after these repairs, but I do not know if they are related. Thanks Jim

I have a 1968 442 with factory A/C. The 400 ci engine is completely stock, except for an electronic ignition module in the distributor. With the A/C on, it feels as if there is a miss or stumble in the motor. It is especially noticeable at reasonably steady speeds. It does not seem to be missing or stumbling on hard acceleration. I am not getting any “pinging” or other noises, when it is missing or stumbling. As soon as I turn off the A/C, the miss or stumble stop occurring (or, it becomes unnoticeable). I have had the car about nine years but driven it less than 4,000 miles. I have not changed the plugs, plug wires or distributor cap, since I have purchased the car. Thoughts on first things to troubleshoot or the correct approach to identify the cause? This issue has only just started within the last 30 days. Thanks Jim

I removed the vacuum line for the heater control valve. I blocked both the vacuum line to the heater control valve and the opening for the vacuum line to the heater control valve. After doing this, I could get almost no heat through the vents to the car. It probably required more than thirty minutes to have the air temperature at the vents reach 110 F. Revving the engine to 2500+ RPM (car was not moving) did not result in a drop in temperature below 110 F. Additionally, both the inlet and outlet lines near the heater core were warm but not hot and not nearly as hot as the top radiator hose. The engine operating temperature was normal. When I reconnected the vacuum line to the heater control valve, the air temperature at the vents immediately spiked to over 160F. Both inlet and outlet hoses near the heater core became very hot. And, revving the engine to 2500+ RPM or driving the car resulted in a significant loss of heat as measured through the air vents. Does this seem like a heater control valve issue? If it were blockage in the heater core, it seems I would have the same issues with low temperature at the heater core outlet hose, regardless of whether the heater control valve was attached to the vacuum source? Thank you Jim

Thank you, Joe I appreciate the help and advice Jim

Thank you Joe Adding the nipple as a replacement for the heat control valve is meant to permit bypassing the valve ? Jim

I have had this issue previously, and have not yet been able to solve the problem. I have a 1968 442 convertible with a 4 speed and factory A/C. The 442 is stock. At idle, I have excellent heat. As I accelerate to 2500 RPM or higher, the heat goes completely cold. This loss of heat can occur while driving or sitting still and revving the engine to a fixed RPM reading. I have replaced the vacuum cannister/reservoir under the hood, and it did not have any impact on the problem. I re-installed the original vacuum cannister that is the correct unit. The vacuum lines under the hood all appear good. I have vacuum gauge tee'd after the vacuum cannister on the small diameter vacuum line that goes though the firewall to obtain vacuum readings, while the engine is running at different RPMs. At idle, the vacuum reading is approximately 18.5 psi (700-800 RPM). At 1,500-2,000 RPM, the vacuum increases to approximately 21 psi, but the heat/temperature remains constant. I am not losing any heat at this point. I am using a thermostat placed in the vent, with the heat directed through the vents, and the fan on its highest setting. When I accelerate to 2500 RPM or higher, the vacuum reading remains the same (approximately 21 psi), and the heat begins to drop from approximately 175F to only 80F or less. Reducing the RPMs to less than 2,000, and the temperature increases, while the vacuum reading remains at approximately 21 psi. Dropping from 1,500 RPM to idle (700-800 RPM), results in the vacuum dropping to approximately 18.5 psi with no change in the temperature or heat being produced. Again, I am measuring vacuum after the vacuum cannister and before the small diameter vacuum line enters the interior through the firewall. It does not appear the vacuum cannister/resevoir has a leak. If this information helps, when turning the heat to "Off" on the dash, I can hear a noticeable release of vacuum near the switch on the dash. I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas to solve this problem. When I first purchased the car, approximately nine years ago, the heat worked fine. The only repairs to this area were a replacement of the blower motor a year after I purchased the car. I recall the heat was still working fine. I can not associate the loss of heat that I am experiencing with any particular incident. Thanks, JIm

Thank you, Bill. i am very slowly learning to work on a vehicle of this vintage. It was not entirely clear to me, when I looked at the service/owner’s manual. I appreciate the information. Best Jin

When I remove the wood wheel from the front of my 1929 Model 135, will the outer brake drum be removed with the wheel? Do I need to remove the tire and rim before removing the wood wheel, or can I remove it as a single entity? I think my wheel cylinder may be plugged, as I replaced the flexible brake line, and I can get no fluid out of the bleeder. Fluid runs through the end of the flexible hose, so I am guessing the brake fluid flow is plugged somewhere in the wheel cylinder. The flexible hose I replaced was deteriorated and leaking, but only a very small amount. Thanks Jim

Thank you, Joe. My 442 is restored and driven. I keep the 442 stock, but I realize original factory replacement parts may not always be a practical option. I can do the adjustments that may be required, as you have suggested. Thanks, again, for the help and advice. Jim

Joe Is the CPA38 a poor choice? This is a $15-$20 part plus shipping (EBay auction aside), so that is not the issue. Is the Carbs Unlimited part listed above a more specific option? I would like to do the repair properly. Thank you, Jim

Thank you for the great advice and feedback. I appreciate it. It helps to call it by a proper name. The Olds factory manual calls it a “vacuum break assembly”, the factory parts manual calls it a “control” (Thank you, Joe), and a “choke pull off” to everyone else. Joe, i purchased the following: Standard Motor Products CPA 38 I do not know, if this is the proper part, as per the factory, but multiple sites listed it as a “correct” part. I am clearly not a carburetor expert, so adjusting a “flat spot” may be beyond my current skills/experience. i plugged the hose coming from the carburetor, while I am waiting for the replacement part. While I am in south central California, where the temperature is rarely colder than 40 F, the car actually seems to start and run a little better on what we consider to be cold mornings. Thanks, again, to all who weighed in with advice and help. Jim

I do not know, as the part is now broken. But, I am assuming it is involved in some manner. Thanks, Jim

One additional question: This part is labeled as a "Vacuum Break Assembly" in the 1968 Oldsmobile shop manual. Is this also a "Choke Pulloff"? I apologize, if this is a dumb question. Thanks, Jim

One additional question: This part is labeled as a "Vacuum Break Assembly" in the 1968 Oldsmobile shop manual, but would it also be considered a "Choke Pulloff" as well? I apologize, if this is a really silly question. Thanks, Jim

Does anyone know a source for a vacuum break assembly for the 4MV carburetor on a 1968 Oldsmobile? It has a stock (to my knowledge) 400 engine and stock carburetor. Pictures are attached. It seems the assembly just split apart I pulled my car onto ramps to grease the chassis and smelled plastic burning. When I removed the air cleaner, I found the plastic vacuum break assembly had come apart. i would appreciate any advice and/or source for a replacement part. Also, it seems the car will run ok with this not functioning. Is this correct?  Thanks Jim    

Does anyone know a source for a vacuum break assembly for the 4MV carburetor on a 1968 Oldsmobile? It has a stock (to my knowledge) 400 engine and stock carburetor. Pictures are attached. It seems the assembly just split apart I pulled my car onto ramps to grease the chassis and smelled plastic burning. When I removed the air cleaner, I found the plastic vacuum break assembly had come apart. i would appreciate any advice and/or source for a replacement part. Also, it seems the car will run ok with this not functioning. Is this correct? Thanks Jim

For information or leads on a Packard 120 or later model (1935-1940) Super 8 or 160/180, I can be reached at email: jrbrks@gmail.com Phone or text: 818.935.1628 Thank you, Jim

For leads on a Packard 120, I can be contacted via email at: jrbrks@gmail.com I am located in Southern California, but I would be willing to ship the right car within the U.S. i can be reached by text or phone at 818.935.1628 Thanks Jim

I am looking for a 1936-1940 Packard 120. I would prefer a coupe or club sedan, but I would consider any model of a restored/survivor, within this time period. This is to be a driver which is used regularly (I am located on the west coast). Thanks for any leads. Jim

I am looking for a 1936-1940 Packard 120. I would prefer a coupe or club sedan, but I would look at all models of good restored/survivor “drivers” within this time period. Thanks for any leads. Jim

Thank you for sharing! The video is really powerful! My only add would be a voiceover defining each of the parts as it is being assembled for those of us not as familiar with all the parts. Jin