Jrbrks

Thank you for the insight. I have been told the number may actually be "640T" rather than "840T". It sure looks like an "8", but I can be argued to a "6", as that seems to be the most likely. Thus, I understand I can purchase tune-up parts for a 1950 Chevrolet 6-cylinder. I appreciate the help and insight. Jim

I understand the distributor #840T may actually be a #640T, which would make this the original distributor for the Model 135. I also understand I could purchase tune-up parts for a 1950 Chevrolet 6-cylinder. This was not clear to me, as I reviewed the technical forum notes on this topic from 2007 on the club website. Thus, it was my error. I appreciate the help and feedback. Perhaps, this clarification will also be useful for others who are new to the Franklin automobiles. Jim

I have a Delco Remy distributor which is stamped with the model # 840 T (serial # 2462). I believe it may be from an early 6-cylinder Chevrolet, but I can find no information. This is currently installed in a 1929 Franklin that I have recently pulled from a very long-term storage (it is not the original Franklin equipment, but many of these engines had Delco-Remy distributors added). I need to purchase a new cap, rotor, points, and condenser and would like to confirm the original application. Thank you for any help. Jim

I would like to thank Tom and Jeff for providing this information on the T82 transmission identification. Tom was kind enough to e-mail a scan of the General Letter #672. This letter indicates the back-up light switch could not be added to the T-82 and, therefore, would no longer be functional. I found this very helpful, as I had been going a bit crazy trying to find a back-up light switch which was no longer there. Thanks again. Jim

Can someone help me identify the original application for a Delco Remy distributor Model # 840T (serial # 2462). These numbers are stamped on the Delco-Remy tag that is riveted to the outside base of the distributor body. I would like to be able to purchase a correct replacement cap, points, condensor and rotor. The current rotor has the metal end on the leading edge worn off on one side, as if it is too long for the cap. the metal tabs in the cap that correspond to each plug wire are also worn on only a small part of their surface, as if the rotor is not making even contact across the surface of each metal tab. All of the 1930's Chevy 6-cylinder distributor model numbers that I have found online seem to be in the 600's. In the 1940's, the model numbers become more complex. I am continuing to work on reviving a 1929 Model 135 recovered from long-term storage (1976). I appreciate any help or leads. Thanks, Jim

Thank you, Bill. I appreciate your posting this. Best, Jim

Can someone indicate, if the '29 Franklin brake system should have single- or double-flares on the brake lines? I purchased the copper brake line through the Franklin club web site. Thank you. Jim

The 135 is a Victoria Brougham Coupe.

I would like to thank the folks on this forum for sharing their expertise. It seems the 3-speed transmission in my '29 is from a '32. I appreciate the help. Jim

My 1929 Franklin Model 135 has a transmission with "T-82-1" stamped on the transmission housing. Can anyone tell me the correct year for this transmission, e.g. I do not believe it is original to the 1929 Franklin models. Thank you, Jim

I have determined the back-up light switch matches the brake light switch (I am slowly figuring out how to find information in the Franklin service and parts manuals). I have not found the location of the back up switch, but I have not yet lifted the floorboards. I have not found the switch from under the car. I should add, that I may have a later transmission in this '29, as my parking brake is by the shifter (in the center of the car) rather than near the driver side door. Thanks for any advice. Jim

I have three questions that I do not find covered in the factory service manual for a 1929 Model 135 (Victoria Coupe): 1) Can someone please tell me the correct anchor point for the spring on the lever arm of the brake light switch? My switch is working, and the spring is attached to the switch but it is not attached on the other end, and I do not see an obvious anchor point, e.g on the moving shaft for the brake pedal? 2) Is there a source for the heavy spring that retracts the brake pedal? Is the brake master cylinder filled from the top by removing the inside carpet and floorboards? 3) Can someone tell me where the switch for the back-up light is located, e.g. is it accessed from under the car or from the top of the transmission? Is there a source for a replacement switch should I find my to be faulty? Thank you, Jim

Thanks to all for the advice and parts sources. I really appreciate the help. Jim

Thank you, Bill. I was beginning to presume there should not be any fluid in the "cylinder" in the fuel tank sending unit. The green color seemed odd, but it is likely as you describe. I need a dash gauge, as the pot metal of my gauge housing is corroded, cracked and beginning to crumble. Based on the corrosion. I am guessing the gauge leaked where the thin copper line enters into the glass tube. If the fluid used in the gauge is caustic, that would explain the corrosion of the pot metal of the body of my dash gauge. I have found a source for the glass tube and brass reservoir, but I really also need the gauge housing or whole gauge for the dash. Do you know of a source for this part? My fuel tank "sending unit" seems in good shape and I have been able to clear all the lines and cleared both "pinholes" (one pinhole near the top of what appears to be a vent tube for the fuel tank and one pinhole in the very bottom of the cylinder at the base of the unit). Thanks again. Jim

I removed the hydrostatic "sending unit" from the fuel tank of my 1929 Model 135 Victoria. While cleaning this unit, green fluid came out of the tube connecting to the thin copper tube that would go to the gauge on the dash. Can someone tell me what his green fluid is and where to purchase it? The fluid was green like the color of antifreeze. Also how much should be added? I know the fuel gauge on the dash requires a red fluid and have found sources to purchase this on other parts of this forum board. One final question......does it make sense to repair the hydrostatic gauge or should I try to fit an electric fuel gauge while I have the tank removed? I have not yet removed the gauge from the dash, but there is corrosion on the back of the gauge, so I am guessing the red fluid has leaked out over the last 80+ years. Thank you. Jim

I have the shop and parts manual from the club, but there is no indication of the proper size of brake line used for the 1929 Model 135 (I have the Victoria coupe). Can someone tell me the correct size for the brake line? Also, what is a proper source and size for the flexible brake lines going to each wheel? I understand the correct size fuel line is 1/4 inch. Thank you. Jim

I purchased a '29 135 Victoria, which had been stored in a temperature controlled warehouse since approximately 1976. Seller indicated he paid a mechanic to clean the gas tank and install a Zenith 525S to get the engine running. I had terrible issues getting the car to start and/or run beyond an idle. Attempting to increase the throttle resulted in immediate stalling. It seemed to get worse with each passing day. I traveled for 10 days and found the throttle linkage on the carburetor stuck and very difficult to move. I pulled the carburetor off the engine and found the carburetor coated on the inside with a black, tar-like sticky and gummy residue. I used a mirror and could see it was lining the inside of the intake manifold to the top. It is not a thick layer but seems paper thin on the intake except in the "corners" where it is a bit thicker residue. It is a thin sticky layer that seems to have hardened somewhat now that I have removed the carburetor and allowed the residual gasoline to dry out. At first, I thought the mechanic had used a large amount of gasket sealant on the gaskets, when he installed the new carburetor. But, there is so much residue in the carburetor and intake that it seems inconceivable that much sealant could have been used. Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts on what this residue is and how to clean it out? Is it something that could have been left since the mid-70's? The fuel in the tank seems OK and there is a fuel filter near the fuel tank. This type of residue would quickly clog any filter, unless it was completely soluble in the gasoline and only precipitated out in the heat of the intake manifold and the carburetor? I would not want to install another carburetor without some idea how to prevent this or fix this problem. I appreciate any ideas. Jim

I would like to find a Stromberg U2 carburetor for a 1929 Series 13 135 motor. I am completely new to Franklin automobiles. I currently have the old Stromberg U2 carburetor with the pot metal body. The car sat for many years and the carburetor is not functional, but I believe all the parts are there. If the parts for the pot metal body match the parts for the cast body, I would only need the cast body. However, I would purchase the full carburetor, if that is available. Thank you, Jim

Thank you. Jim

I appreciate everyone's help and insight. In the drawings provided, is it possible to identify the gauge numbers for each of the wires? I can now identify where each wire goes along with the proper wire color and tracer. But....I do not see the gauge number for each of the wires. Am I just missing it? Thank you, Jim

Thank you, Frank. I have printed you diagram along with the others listed in this thread. I really do appreciate the help. Best, Jim

Thank you, Steve. I appreciate the information. I agree, in that I typically purchase the wire from Rhode Island. But, I actually enjoy building the harness myself. Best, Jim

Can someone tell me where to find the VIN number for a 1929 Franklin 135 Victoria Coupe? I am purchasing the car this evening and would like to confirm the VIN number against the title, before I trailer the car to my home. Thank you, Jim

Does anyone have or know a source for a complete wiring diagram for a 1929 Franklin 135 (Victoria coupe)? I am looking for the wiring diagram with wire and tracer colors and the gauge for each wire. The owners manual has a reasonable diagram but does not provide the gauge size for each wire and omits some wire/tracer color combinations. The parts manual has a section of wire colors with numbers such as "#14", which I assume means 14-gauge wire? Is there a single wiring schematic for this car, or does one have to go back-and-forth between the owner's manual and the parts manual? Thanks, Jim

Thank you, ODAT. Best, Jim