Jrbrks

Can anyone address how difficult mechanical parts are to locate or purchase?

I want to thank everyone for their thoughts, suggestions and advice. It has really helped, as I now have all four new tires mounted. There is some issue with the “problem” rim, I provided pictures for above. It appears slightly twisted and can not be fully aligned, even with the tire completely removed. It just seems a little bit off center (or something??). When I mounted the tire on a different rim, I had no issues. It did help to rearrange the rim tool for expanding the rim, as suggested above. For the “problem” rim, there was nothing I could do to get the rim to fully expand and mate properly on both sides. Thanks again for all the terrific advice. While I am somewhat slow, mounting new tires, tubes and flaps on these collapsible rims is not that difficult for a complete novice, once you have access to the information in this thread. I may see if I can locate a tire or wheel repair shop that could evaluate my “problem” rim and perhaps adjust it to be useful, once again. Jim

I will turn the spreader as both of the above folks suggest and try again. I guess my issue is whether there is something I may have done wrong. As the rim is clearly offset at the center seam, I am wondering if it is binding somehow on something? Wheaties are worth a try, but I am doubtful they will improve my skills. Jim

Thank you. In this case, I did rotate the arms as you suggest, and it did not make a difference. I should have included that information. In repairing flats and mounting two new tires, I had no issue expanding the rim. Only this rim is causing a problem, and it appeared fine when I removed the old tire and reinstalled the new tire. In fact, I had been driving the car on a limited basis using the tire on this rim, and there were no issues, eg old tire and tube held air pressure fine. I am only replacing the tires, because I know they are at least 44 years old and two of them were showing serious cracks in the side walls. Jim

I am having an issue expanding the rim, while mounting one of the new Firestone blackball tires that I recently purchased (6.50 x 19). I have successfully mounted two of the four tires with no issues, other than I am very, very slow. I have the proper rim expanding/rim shrinking tool for collapsing/expanding the rim (I have the wooden wheels). For the current rim, I was able to collapse the rim, remove the old tire, tube and flap and install the new tire tube and flap. However, I am unable to expand the rim fully with the rim expanding tool pulled as tightly as I am able or dare to pull it. One side of the rim appears fully expanded but the other side continues to have approximately 1/8 inch overlap and will not budge further. Moving the rim expanding tool to the opposite side of the wheel does not work. Something is clearly wrong, as it should not be this difficult. Since beginning this thread, I have repaired two flat tires and on two of the five rims and installed new tires on two other rims. This is the first removal and reinstallation with the current "problem rim", but there was nothing unusual with this rim when I removed the old tire and reinstalled the new tire. Has anyone encountered this issue? Clearly, something is wrong, but I am at a loss. I have now done this enough times to know that expanding the rim with the rim expanding tool is not difficult. I have pictures. The first picture shows the half of the rim that seems expanded, while the third picture shows the other half of the rim that continues to be overlapped. The center photo shows the tool mounted on the wheel. Any thoughts or advice are appreciated. I am stumped. Jim

Thanks to all for the great feedback/advice. I appreciate it. Jim

Thank you for the advice. I did a search and was not finding instructions on how to adjust the generator (the shop manuals for my specific vehicle include limited information), and I have not previously owned a vehicle of this vintage. I will conduct an additional search. Thanks again Jim

I am slowly bringing a 1929 Franklin 135 back to the road after many years of storage by a previous owner. Currently, my dash amp meter gauge reads +10 amps charging at idle. It increases as I accelerate. if I turn on the headlights, the gauge stays positive but is close to zero at idle. Is this “normal”, or should the amperage read closer to zero? Thanks Jim

Am I able to use 7.00 x 19 tires on a 1929 Model 135? I do not have sidemounts. I have the wood wheels with collapsible rims. The car currently has 6.50 x 19. Would the 7.00 x 19 be any more difficult to mount than the 6.50 x 19 on my current collapsible rims? Thanks

Having used the great advice provided to learn to remove and reinstall tires, tubes and flaps........ I am now requesting recommendations for new tire and tube purchases for my 1929 Franklin Model 135? Questions for tire size 6.50 x 19: 1) Preferred dealers? I have no previous experience or bias with any of the classic tire dealers. I live in California and could potentially pick the tires up from dealers in the state, eg Lucas tire. 2) Preferred brand of tire? Is there any chance of something being manufactured in the U.S.? 3) Preferred supplier of tubes? Is there a quality tube supplier available? I see tubes priced between $27-$58. Are they different? I have read that some folks have used modern light truck tire tubes, but I do not know, if such would exist in the 19 inch size? Any thoughts or experience? 4). Whitewall or Blackwall? I have read the new whitewalls are poorly made and the whitewall begins to immediately discolor to tan and can not be readily bleached to white? 5). Potential to request tires recently manufactured? I have read that some suppliers will ship “new” tires that are already several years old. Thoughts or experiences to avoid this? 6). I saw an offering of a radial in this size? Is a radial a viable consideration for this vehicle? I have the wood spoke wheels on my car. I do not have overdrive or different rear end gears, so my cruising speed seems to only be approximately 41 mph. I am not trying to go the cheapest route and would like to do tire changes and repairs as little as possible. I can now do the repairs, but it still requires an hour or more per wheel. I will be regularly driving my car. Thanks for any thoughts or advice. Jim

Thank you, Bill It helps to know that I am removing the rim from the tire. I was concerned to potentially bend the rim by pulling in too far, and I did remove the tool before trying to remove the tire. I will follow your advice, and I should have better luck. Thanks again. Jim

I have a further question for removing the tire, tube and liner from the split rim. My question: When attempting to remove the tire from the split rim: 1) am I trying to remove the tire from the rim? or......... 2) am I trying to remove the rim from the tire? I can get the top bead of the tire off the rim, but I am having a very difficult time removing the bottom bead (with the flap and tube) from the rim to free the entire tire, tube and flap assembly as a single unit. I still feel I am missing something obvious? Thank you Jim

This is a beautiful automobile! I am not a buyer. But, given the rarity of this model and the fact there would be few comparison sales, how might one arrive at an appropriate number for a purchase price? I am asking only to become a bit more educated. And.....I understand that value is what someone is willing to pay. I am simply wondering, if there is a quantifiable method to approach assigning or estimating value for a vehicle with few “market-similar” sales. Thanks Jim

Thanks Joe. I will give that a try next weekend. Jim

I appreciate the additional insight. Thank you, again. Jim

Thank you, Joe. This is a factory A/C car, and I will check the vacuum system as you have described. is it also possible the heater control valve has gone bad? I had heat at acceleration, when I purchased the car about 8 years ago. The only real change I made was to have a shop convert the A/C to R134, but there was no other change to the factory set up, of which I am aware. I live in a very hot area, so the heater is rarely used. There is a temperature gauge in the cluster and it does not change from normal operating temperature, when I accelerate. I did have the problem before and after changing the thermostat and flushing the cooling system. Thank you, again. Jim

I have a 1968 442 4-speed convertible that is stock. When stopped, I have full interior heat, but the air goes cold when I am moving. When I flushed the cooling system, I replaced the thermostat with no change in the loss of heat when moving. What obvious thing am I missing? I appreciate any help. Thanks Jim

I checked the Valvoline website, and they indicated the racing oil could also be safely used in passenger cars. As as I mentioned earlier, I am using this as a standard, non-synthetic motor oil with adequate amounts of zinc phosphate. Jim

Thank you for the contact for Mr Hull. I will contact him. I have purchased wiring from Rhode Island and used their products for two previous vehicles. I prefer to make my own harnesses, and RI has provided great quality and service. I appreciate the oil thoughts. I will go to a heavier weight oil, such as 20w40 or 20w50. As I indicated, I chose the oil based on the fact that it was non-synthetic and had adequate amounts of zinc phosphate. I appreciate the thoughts and advice provided. Jim

It does not seem possible to acquire the right side stanchion from the contact provided. I am wondering if anyone has other creative solutions/ideas for a right side brake/signal light combination that would look reasonable? Thanks Jim

Thank you for the advice. Jim

Thank you for the source for the right side stanchion. I am hoping one might be available, as I will begin rewiring the car soon. Jim

I would appreciate advice on what I am clearly missing in replacing an inner tube and tire. I made my first attempt to replace a tire (19 inch split rim on a wood wheel) on my 1929 Model 135. Removing the wheel, collapsing the rim, removing the top bead of the tire and then removing the inner tube was very straightforward. What I could not determine was how to remove the bottom bead of the tire to completely remove the tire from the rim. The problem was the flap. The flap extends well up into the tire and is very stiff. I could not get the flap outside of the bottom tire bead, such that I could then lever under the bottom bead of the tire to remove it from the rim. And, the flap is far to stiff and fit the rim too tight to pull it out. Given the existing tire was 6-ply, the tire itself provided little "give", but I do not think I could have removed the flap, in any event. Ultimately, I had to cut the tire in half to remove it from the rim (The tire was already torn and completely unusable, so at least I did not ruin an otherwise usable tire). As I mentioned, the flap fits the rim very tightly and the sides extend at least two inches of the top of the rim. The flap itself is very stiff and in very good condition. It looks new (I know it is not). I simply can not believe this was engineered to be this difficult. I realize I must be missing something obvious. As I need to put a different tire and tube onto this rim, I would appreciate advice on how to do this properly. My questions: 1) I realize that I will slightly inflate the inner tube and place it in the tire before levering the rear bead of the tire onto the rim. I presume that I leave the flap on the rim (I think it would be difficult to lever it onto the rim with the tire and tube, but I do not know)? If so, what is the proper way to get the flap under the rear bead of the tire? I have the proper 3-armed Franklin tool for collapsing and then expanding the rim. Otherwise, I am using pry bars and large screwdrivers. 2) If I am to remove a tire to replace or repair tubes or tires in the future, what is the proper method to remove the bottom bead of the tire from the rim? How do you get the sides of the flap away from the bottom bead to lever under the bead and remove the tire from the rim? Do any of you trim the sides of the flaps, so they do not extend so far into the side of the tire. Thanks for any guidance. This is really puzzling me. Jim

Thanks to each of you for the terrific advice. I appreciate this. I am a newer member of the Franklin Club, and I did not find the right hand tail light housing produced by George Staley. Does anyone have any ideas as to how I could determine if any of these remain available and/or for sale? Thank you Jim

i have recently been able to complete a major engine repair on a 1929 Model 135 Victoria, and I have a couple of questions: 1) at the initial start-up, I am using 10w30 Valvoline racing oil, as it is conventional based oil with adequate amounts of zinc phosphate. Should I consider a different weight oil? My intent is not to foster disagreement or long debate, but rather to understand the recommended practices among Franklin experts. 2). My car has a jury-rigged spring for the brake light that I know is not standard. Is there not a pressure switch that goes into the master cylinder to activate the brake light? If so, can someone provide a source and/or part number for the switch? Also, where is it mounted? 3). Has anyone purchased tires, tubes and flaps recently? I am guessing Coker or Universal are the only vendors? Mine are 6.50 x 19. Is there anything specific I should request, especially with respect to the tubes and flaps? 4) I bought an oil filter from Roberts and it is considerably bigger than my stock filter. Is there a better source, or a better solution? 5). Does anyone have thoughts on installing a second (passenger side) rear tail light that will not look too out of place? my Victoria carries a single spare tire on the rear. 6). Does anyone have a source for 6 volt halogen headlight bulbs or LED bulbs for the tail light? Thank you for any thoughts/advice you may have. Jim